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listenlounge
Joined: 29 Apr 2007 Posts: 48 Location: NSW, Australia
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 9:49 am Post subject: G2 Pin snapped on a 180DVB tube. Yep. Came right out. Ideas? |
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As it says.
I was having trouble with G2 on BLUE on my Marquee hybrid. It has older tubes in it and one day - big bright blue screen. Checked the settings, switched the neck board out, switched the HVPS, no effect. Then one day - boom! It all came back to normal so I left it. Fine for a year or so, then the other day - it came back. I started looking for loose connections and discovered the problem. When I pulled the G2 lead off the tube - the pin came with it.
Holy Moly.
Anyone seen this or have ideas to fix it. It's a 10/10 tube and whilst I have another brand new one, I do not feel like pulling the dang thing off the roof to switch out the tube.
WAY too lazy for that.
Thx for any suggestions
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listenlounge
Joined: 29 Apr 2007 Posts: 48 Location: NSW, Australia
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 9:56 am Post subject: Addendum |
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I've pulled out my spare tube and had a look - it's not the whole pin that is out, just the top bit, presumably only up to the glass envelope as I'm sure I would have heard the rush of air into the tube if it had come right out. Not to mention the length of the pin that I can see both inside the tube connector and then inside the glass is easy longer than what has come out.
I was thinking about removing all the tube neck hardware and trying to reinsert the pin until i feel it mate, then epoxy it in place. I'd probably abrade the snapped end too, to remove any corrosion and increase the chance of it mating internally with lower resistance.
Thoughts?
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gjaky
Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Posts: 2790 Location: Budapest, Hungary
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 11:16 am Post subject: |
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Not a very common issue, for sure...
The best idea I can come up with is to use electrically conductive glue (whatever brand you have down there) to make an electrical contact between the fractured parts, but these glues in fact do not excell in mechanical strength, so you should apply a little epoxy to the outer collar too.
Keep your work clean and "concentrated" with the conductive glue as you may want to avoid later HV leaks as G2 may contain voltages up to 1kV.
_________________ projectors in the past : NEC 6-9PG xtra, Electrohome Marquee 6-7500, NEC XG 1351 LC ( with super modified Electrohome VNB neckboard !!!)
current: VDC Marquee 9500LC
The MOD: VNB-DB, VIM-DB
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Curt Palme CRT Tech
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 24301 Location: Langley, BC
TV/Projector: All of them!
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 3:01 pm Post subject: |
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Ive seen this before, and never have been able to repair it. If all else fails, I should have a good blue tube here for cheap.
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listenlounge
Joined: 29 Apr 2007 Posts: 48 Location: NSW, Australia
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 7:50 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks gents
Going to try the repair a few different ways but if I have no luck, I'll drop it off the roof and replace it with my new tube, then buy a spare from you, Curt.
Curt, I don't suppose you have a picture of a 180dmb or dvb tube neck without it'd collar on? Just interested to see what I'm up against. I suspect i'm aiming at a needle in a haystack....
Cheers
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cdsnyder
Joined: 08 Jan 2018 Posts: 7 Location: wisconsin, usa
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Link Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2018 10:04 pm Post subject: |
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Pogo pin is just the right diameter for a socket, but about 5mm too long. Depends on how deep you'd have to go though. Did you say that pin has its own lead though? The length problem goes away but you'd have to find a way to hold it in place. I've sanded down the tip to a needle point to get through solder mask to get at programming pins.. love these little things.
Other than that, I don't know.. If enough of the pin is still sticking through the glass you can try to crimp a bare female pin connector around it to extend a new pin. Then secure with epoxy.
Good luck.
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 12:14 am Post subject: |
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I've replaced the plastic socket on a good number of tubes. It's always siliconed on. To remove it, get an x-acto knife with the sharp angled standard blade. Better yet, get two or more of them.
Use it to cut the silicone between the socket and the glass between pins and take your time at it. Stick the blade in where you can, push it in until you feel hard resistance, rotate the blade to cut what it can touch. Remove the blade and stick it between the next two pins and repeat.
Turn the blade over so as to get the silicone cut from both directions.
Now use two thin blades on both sides at once and gently pry the socket up, taking care to pull the socket up EVENLY. Never force it.
STOP if you feel even the slightest CRUNCH. If you do, recut the silicone and reposition your prying tools and try again. Gentle consistent pressure works better than a brief hard push.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 2:15 pm Post subject: |
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Guess I would try something like putting a dot of solder on the pin part left in the tube. Put on the neckboard. Insert the copper wire from the back and heat till it melt to the solder on the part in the tube ???
_________________ 701s->runco933->8500ultra->hd1->hd350->vw100->cinemax+919sp+3x919+9500mp->cinemax+919sp(modded)+kuro600a
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barclay66
Joined: 27 Jun 2011 Posts: 1291 Location: Germany
TV/Projector: Marquee 9500 Ultra
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 3:54 pm Post subject: |
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Hi,
I only would recommend using mechanical solutions. The tube pins don’t take any solder and the tube neck could break due to punctual thermal stress.
Usually, the adjacent pin to the G2 pin is unused and not connected to anything inside the tube. If after removing the plastic socket there’s enough material left, you could use very thin wire and connect the two pins by putting it around them in an ‘8’ shape. Then you could remount the plastic socket and it would keep the wire in place...
Regards,
barclay66
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s
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Link Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 9:15 pm Post subject: |
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Here's an idea: Get a crimp-on straight pin for a DB series connector, or other connector pin that has roughly the right ID for the broken pin, assuming there's enough to grab, and that has a tip size that's appropriate for the flying lead. Very carefully crimp it onto the end of the broken pin using a pair of needle nose pliers or, probably better, a set of cheap diagonal cutters with very carefully blunted jaws so they crush without cutting.
If you have just 1/8 of an inch of available pin, I don't see why this wouldn't work.
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