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Dead Barco Graphics 808s
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sevs




Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Location: Norway


PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 5:25 pm    Post subject: Dead Barco Graphics 808s Reply with quote


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Hi.

Recently got hold of a used, but not working BG808s. Not sure where to start. It doesn't produce a picture on any of the tubes. It automatically shuts down after 3 attempt cycles. What i believe to be the convergence LED on the G2 board flickers slightly, along with a ticking sound in sync with said LED.
The red LED on the G2 board is lit.
17v rail measures 17.25v.

Where do i start troubleshooting?


Last edited by sevs on Mon Oct 16, 2017 5:39 pm; edited 2 times in total
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sevs




Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Location: Norway


PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just found the/a problem. Cracked solder joint on the smps. Time to fire up the soldering iron. Will post results later.
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sevs




Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Location: Norway


PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried to resolder all the bad solder joints on the smps, the problem is still present.

All neckboard green leds are lit, all the tube heater filaments are glowing.
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km987654




Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Posts: 2852
Location: Australia

TV/Projector: Barco BG809s


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there a Red LED on the EHT board?

http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout8.shtm
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sevs




Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Location: Norway


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

km987654 wrote:
Is there a Red LED on the EHT board?

http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout8.shtm


It's a bit hard to tell. Is the LED visible through the back of the projector? If so then the LED isn't lit as far as i can tell.
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km987654




Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Posts: 2852
Location: Australia

TV/Projector: Barco BG809s


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 9:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sevs wrote:
km987654 wrote:
Is there a Red LED on the EHT board?

http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout8.shtm


It's a bit hard to tell. Is the LED visible through the back of the projector? If so then the LED isn't lit as far as i can tell.


You have to look down from the top of the EHT board. There is a hole to look through. You may need to move your head left to right to see anything.
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sevs




Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Location: Norway


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

km987654 wrote:
sevs wrote:
km987654 wrote:
Is there a Red LED on the EHT board?

http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout8.shtm


It's a bit hard to tell. Is the LED visible through the back of the projector? If so then the LED isn't lit as far as i can tell.


You have to look down from the top of the EHT board. There is a hole to look through. You may need to move your head left to right to see anything.


OK thanks, I'll take a look at it when I get home from work in about 4-5 hours.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24296
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the G2 board LEDs, that's the key here. I suspect that the red one is on, indicating a scan fail. that is a H or V deflection failure, and sends an error message to the controller (CPU board) in the set. After 3 tries of firing up and getting errors back from the chassis, the set shuts down to protect itself.

Let us know.
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sevs




Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Location: Norway


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 2:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Curt Palme wrote:
Check the G2 board LEDs, that's the key here. I suspect that the red one is on, indicating a scan fail. that is a H or V deflection failure, and sends an error message to the controller (CPU board) in the set. After 3 tries of firing up and getting errors back from the chassis, the set shuts down to protect itself.

Let us know.



The red LED on the G2 board is indeed on.

The LED on the EHT board is off.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24296
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 17, 2017 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, so you have a power supply problem, or an H or V board issue. If the set was working, and no one got into it, I'd suspect an H or v board failure rather than a power supply one. If someone got into the set, playing with trimpots at random, then it's equally possible that it's the power supply.

Unless you have extender boards and a 'scope, there's no way of telling which board is bad. You can send me the boards to test, repair or replace as you'd prefer, or I have tested working boards at $50 each plus shipping.
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sevs




Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Location: Norway


PostLink    Posted: Sun Oct 22, 2017 4:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, thanks for the help. We have scopes at work that I probably could use. I think I'm going to do some simple probing with a multimeter first though, to check for like bad passive components, fuses, mosfets etc.

For the record, here is the thread from the previous owner (in norwegian):
http://avforum.no/forum/crt-projektorer/135926-problemer-med-bilde-bg808s-post2012667.html
Use google Translate or ask me if the translation turns out to be gibberish.

I feel like there maybe is more problems with the set than the ones I'm having, according to that thread? I'll try to fix my current problems first though.

I did disassemble the CRTs and lenses from the set and remove all the boards prior to hauling up my staircase in my apartment, the only thing that is different from before is I swapped some of the neckboards around to different CRTs because i didn't label them beforehand. I guess this shouldn't be an issue though?

None of the red LEDs on the H or V boards are on.

Which fuses should I check? I did check most of the fuses on the smps iirc.

By the way, the spring on the single scan switch that is on the main board (not any of the three but the one that sits alone a bit from the rest, i don't remember which is H and V) came loose and the switch doesn't make a clicking sound when you press it in. Could a failing switch of this sort cause the problems that i'm facing? Should i try some contact cleaner or something first? I think i do have similar replacement switches but i'm not sure if the pinout is correct (multi pole, single throw, normally open contacts?).
Gonna try to find some time to measure the switch some day and see if i can make out whether it seems to work or not.
You need to disassemble basically everything to gain access to the underside of the main board to desolder and solder in a new switch, right?

I'll consider byuing replacement parts from you Curt once I pin down exactly which board or component is failing.
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sevs




Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Location: Norway


PostLink    Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2018 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again. I'm resurrecting this thread again despite it being over a year old. My life has been in a bit of a situation with lots of ups and downs since I initially made this thread and I haven't had the motivation to continue trying to repair my projectors until now, but now life things is mostly sorted out so I'll take time to continue on this project again in this thread if it's OK.

Okay, so where were we again? I already had a working Barco 701s at the time when I made this post (but it's being problematic now but that's another long story). I got myself a Barco Graphics 1200 earlier this year, in unknown condition. I had to disassemble most of it for logistical reasons. I don't have any space to reassemble it currently, but I am able to clean out a desk in a while so I can test the 1200, but that's for another thread later. It should be in mostly working order though, but it's leaking glycol and needs some cleaning.

Reason for mentioning the acquired 1200 is because I want to try swapping parts between it and the 808s. Below is a photo of the 808s EHT on the left, the 1200 EHT on the right. They don't look identical, but fairly similar, is it possible for me to try the 1200's EHT board in the 808s?

If that fails then I'll try the 1200's HV quad in the 808s, if able?

Oh yeah, and I repaired the scan fail light problem by spraying electronics cleaner spray over the scan switches. One of the scan switches is missing its spring though and doesn't make clicky sounds when you push it.

I swapped the splitters between the 701s and the 808s, the 701s still works with the other splitter and the 808s still doesn't.
Some more trivia:
I've also had intermittent LEDs on the CRT necks. Removing the H card makes the red LED go out and the ticking stops. There is a smallish crack in the block on the G2 board.



IMG_20181205_2150403_2.jpg
 Description:
EHT boards from 808s on the left, 1200 on the right
 Filesize:  64.2 KB
 Viewed:  8765 Time(s)

IMG_20181205_2150403_2.jpg



_________________
Barco Data 701s - Barco Graphics 808s - Barco Graphics 1200
Please refrain from discussing CRT vs DLP, your opinions on CRT projection, economics, politics or anything similar in my threads.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24296
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2018 1:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't remember if you can swap them or not, sorry, I think you can, but it's been so long since I've tried it, but I don't know for sure.
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km987654




Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Posts: 2852
Location: Australia

TV/Projector: Barco BG809s


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2018 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They are interchangeable. If i recall correctly you have to resolder a jumper on the frame for the later EHT. If you don't change the jumper the EHT will not operate.

That jumper change should be somewhere in the forums.
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gregstv




Joined: 27 Aug 2007
Posts: 628
Location: Australia


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 11, 2018 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sevs wrote:
OK, thanks for the help. We have scopes at work that I probably could use. I think I'm going to do some simple probing with a multimeter first though, to check for like bad passive components, fuses, mosfets etc.

For the record, here is the thread from the previous owner (in norwegian):
http://avforum.no/forum/crt-projektorer/135926-problemer-med-bilde-bg808s-post2012667.html
Use google Translate or ask me if the translation turns out to be gibberish.

I feel like there maybe is more problems with the set than the ones I'm having, according to that thread? I'll try to fix my current problems first though.

I did disassemble the CRTs and lenses from the set and remove all the boards prior to hauling up my staircase in my apartment, the only thing that is different from before is I swapped some of the neckboards around to different CRTs because i didn't label them beforehand. I guess this shouldn't be an issue though?

None of the red LEDs on the H or V boards are on.

Which fuses should I check? I did check most of the fuses on the smps iirc.

By the way, the spring on the single scan switch that is on the main board (not any of the three but the one that sits alone a bit from the rest, i don't remember which is H and V) came loose and the switch doesn't make a clicking sound when you press it in. Could a failing switch of this sort cause the problems that i'm facing? Should i try some contact cleaner or something first? I think i do have similar replacement switches but i'm not sure if the pinout is correct (multi pole, single throw, normally open contacts?).
Gonna try to find some time to measure the switch some day and see if i can make out whether it seems to work or not.
You need to disassemble basically everything to gain access to the underside of the main board to desolder and solder in a new switch, right?

I'll consider byuing replacement parts from you Curt once I pin down exactly which board or component is failing.


Make sure the switch with the broken spring is all the way in or out. If its not it will cause the unit to not come on. If its in put a elastic band on it to see if it solves the problem. If its out make a clip to hold the spring in place pushing the switch out.
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robin36mac




Joined: 24 Jan 2009
Posts: 44



PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2018 12:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello,

Swapping with this EHT board, I did it successfully, some time ago.
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=441134 was this thread but about another issue...

The quad R761743 too. It is just don't fit the the mounting hole properly, but it's the same as the 091 quad.

Robin
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sevs




Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Location: Norway


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 9:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello and happy holidays!
I got it working and it fired up yesterday! It was really embarrassing when I noticed the yellow cable from the controller board wasn't connected to anything and was just hanging loose. I don't know how or why it got disconnected, but I put it back in and the set started up! Interestingly, it has over 18700 hours in it.

Not sure if it really was necessary, but I replaced the H output board, and I turned down the master witdh trimpot slightly, as both of those did tame down the ticking frequency earlier. I went into the adjustment menu and tried to generate crosshatches at two custom modelines, both at 110khz H. One at 48Hz V and the other at 155Hz V. None of them worked and both made the ticking noise frequency go up to 2-3 per second, with no picture. I turned the set off and on again and used the 15khz pal mode crosshatch instead, and the ticking was (almost?) gone.

I went into the adj menus and played around a bit, and I adjusted the horizontal size down a bit. The set turned off (or maybe blank picture but still on, can't remember) and the set hasn't turned on since. I tried upping the master width trimpot back to the original value which was about 2 o'clock, and to the middle position, and slightly lower than that, but still nothing. The RCU and Error LEDs have been intermittently lighting up when I have used the IR remote but not when using the internal keypad. Doesn't always happen though.

Also it seems that this ticking gets quicker as the set warms up. The ticking happens in combination with the convergence LED pulsating. It's similar to the problem in this thread:
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20460&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=0

I didn't try the 1200's EHT or quad in this PJ, it did boot up fine that time with the original 808s EHT and quad. I have found the service bulletin on this forum and as far as I can see, both my 808s and 1200 share the same "old" HV parts. Correct me if i'm wrong though? not sure what the practical differences between those two EHT boards are, there's only one digit that is different in the serial numbers. The 1200's PCB is single sided and the one from the 808s is double sided and has a little daughterboard, and the layout is only slightly different.

_________________
Barco Data 701s - Barco Graphics 808s - Barco Graphics 1200
Please refrain from discussing CRT vs DLP, your opinions on CRT projection, economics, politics or anything similar in my threads.


Last edited by sevs on Sun Dec 30, 2018 11:01 pm; edited 2 times in total
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sevs




Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Location: Norway


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lo and behold, it starts up again and shows a picture after turning the master width trimpot back down again, to about 9 o'clock, but the ticking/clicking is still present and there's no convergence.

And it's dim and unsharp but that's probably just adjustments that are needed.

_________________
Barco Data 701s - Barco Graphics 808s - Barco Graphics 1200
Please refrain from discussing CRT vs DLP, your opinions on CRT projection, economics, politics or anything similar in my threads.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24296
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 2:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the following: Put up the convergence test pattern, and turn the contrast from whatever it is now up to 100. See if the test pattern stays in focus on the tube face by looking into the lenses. If so, then you're most likely right, the set is fine, and it needs focusing, and alignment. If the images on the tube faces become defocused or the set shuts the image down (and the red EHT light comes on on the EHT board), then you have HV issues.

Chances are it just needs tuning.

See the main site for hints on how to set raster width and that master trimpot. Put the H width control in the menus to 50 when adjusting the trimpot.
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sevs




Joined: 19 Sep 2017
Posts: 39
Location: Norway


PostLink    Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 2:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I'll try that tomorrow.
_________________
Barco Data 701s - Barco Graphics 808s - Barco Graphics 1200
Please refrain from discussing CRT vs DLP, your opinions on CRT projection, economics, politics or anything similar in my threads.
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