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Sound Isloation Materials

 
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jbmeyer13



Joined: 03 Dec 2010
Posts: 1130



PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 2:48 pm    Post subject: Sound Isloation Materials Reply with quote


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When I built my new theater I didn't de-couple due to size/room constraints. Building a room within a room was just not feasable given the room specs.

Having said that I did double up on drywall and insulate my ceiling. The left wall and screen wall (behind the false wall) are foundation walls while the right wall is double sheet rock but unfinished on the other side as it's the workshop/utility/storage section of my basement. There's no HVAC and with the exception of a beer fridge and a small de-humidifer there's nothing else contaminating the theater from the unfinished portion of the basement.

While I'm less concerned about sound leaking out of the theater I would like to take additional measures to prevent sound from leaking in, thus increasing the STC. My SPL meter indicates a rating 40-42db when the room is quiet and if possible would like to get that down into the 30's. Right now occasional LF sound from the kitchen (footsteps, chair dragging, etc.) is coming down into the workshop and leaking into the theater. Some of this is undoubtably flowing through the flooring structure which is impossible to eliminate entirely since the theater isn't de-coupled but I'm wondering if additional treatments to the unfinished side of the theater wall may help boost the STC.

Would something like MVL (Mass Loaded Vinyl) be a cost effective way to achieve this? I plan to use Linacoustic R-300 on the screenwall (behind my false wall) but was wondering if it might also be useful as a treatment on the unifinished wall. What are the best options available if not these?

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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 15680
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jun 20, 2017 3:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the same concerns: Keeping sound out instead of keeping sound in my basement HT.

Like you I insulated the ceiling but didn't double drywall on the ceiling, and didn't de-couple the room. The noisiest thing bringing noise in is the mech room with the furnace, so I decoupled that by having a room behind the screen (see on the left in the pic below):



To reduce HVAC noise I did use B-Quiet Ultimate - a viscoelastic deadener with a supercharged butyl based adhesive. It's a less expensive version of Dynamat and originally meant to deaden the sound in cars but is often used to quiet HVAC ducts and pipes as well. Similar to what you see installed under many sinks. More from my build thread: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=346398#346398

Not sure about using something like to reduce foot falls or similar. I was using it to reduce vibration noise.

Kal

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My basement/HT/bar/brewery build 2.0
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gregstv



Joined: 27 Aug 2007
Posts: 624
Location: Australia


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My 919 is fully dynamatted
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jbmeyer13



Joined: 03 Dec 2010
Posts: 1130



PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 1:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:

Not sure about using something like to reduce foot falls or similar. I was using it to reduce vibration noise.

Kal


Yeah, from the research I've done it would seem that de-coupling or increasing mass are the only ways to control the LF waves running through the rafters. Seems that basically leaves me with building another wall on the workshop side. Adding a resilient channel and/or double sheet rock/green glue. Not easy since there are structural supports to work around. The question is whether all of that will really make much of a difference since the ceiling isn't de-coupled. Only thing for sure is that it's a lot of work and money.

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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 15680
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Definitely adds work and cost.

I think it really depends on your needs and how the space is used. Normally when we're watching something in the basement, everyone's either in the room or it's just me and one of the kids and the others are a couple of floors up. So we don't care about keeping outside noise from other people out as there really isn't any. If it's only me watching something then it's usually late at night and the kids are already asleep (nobody's running around on the floor above me).

I did want to keep mechanical noise out, but "people" noise isn't really an issue in our home based on the how the HT is used so I knew doing full-blown isolation (room within a room) or even just resilient channel and/or double drywall wouldn't give me much benefit. YMMV of course. I really depends on the people / how the space is used.

Kal

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jbmeyer13



Joined: 03 Dec 2010
Posts: 1130



PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Definitely adds work and cost.

I think it really depends on your needs and how the space is used. Normally when we're watching something in the basement, everyone's either in the room or it's just me and one of the kids and the others are a couple of floors up. So we don't care about keeping outside noise from other people out as there really isn't any. If it's only me watching something then it's usually late at night and the kids are already asleep (nobody's running around on the floor above me).

I did want to keep mechanical noise out, but "people" noise isn't really an issue in our home based on the how the HT is used so I knew doing full-blown isolation (room within a room) or even just resilient channel and/or double drywall wouldn't give me much benefit. YMMV of course. I really depends on the people / how the space is used.

Kal


Pretty much the same exact scenario here. The theater sits directly below the dinning room so there's no foot traffic in there and 98% of the time there's no issue with sound entering the theater. The fridge in workshop is quiet and dealing with the dehumidifer is not a big deal (can wrap that with dynamat or something similar) so it's just when my son runs back and forth through the kitchen..lol

Even without a sound proof door and the volume cranked; the upper level bedrooms are free from sound. I could certainly leave things the way they are but am curious on improvements.

I tested with my stand alone meter and iphone app; both with PJ running. The meter read 49db and the iphone read 39db. Would be nice if it were in mid 30's but I also don't have my treatments up yet and didn't finish insulating work shop side either so that could help a bit.

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jask



Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 8825
Location: kamloops BC


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2017 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do your floor joist cross from the kitchen to the dining room ( over the wall to the workshop?) if not I would see if you could add resilient channel and a couple layers of drywall to the workshop side of the workshop wall. I have a very similar situation and originally only decoupled all the walls except the back wall ( my "workshop" wall ) which I had built as a temp wall thinking that the theater space might be enlarged at a later date.
The couple problems I had were noise infiltration through the HVAC air return, I tried baffling and lining the vertical rise of the duct but still had noise, so eventually closed it off. and the other was the "temp" wall to the workshop area being too light and the same problem as you with footfall noise in the kitchen area upstairs - when I rebuilt it I decoupled the top plate from the floor joists and added double drywall on both sides with resilient channel... (and a solid core door with gaskets... Smile ) we can sit in the dining room and hear LF from the theater room but still be able to have a normal conversation with company....with theater audio at reference level ! and that is so uncomfortably loud that the volume seldom goes that high in our theater. One day I need to build a hush box to deal with PJ fan noise..
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jbmeyer13



Joined: 03 Dec 2010
Posts: 1130



PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2017 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jask wrote:
Do your floor joist cross from the kitchen to the dining room ( over the wall to the workshop?) if not I would see if you could add resilient channel and a couple layers of drywall to the workshop side of the workshop wall. I have a very similar situation and originally only decoupled all the walls except the back wall ( my "workshop" wall ) which I had built as a temp wall thinking that the theater space might be enlarged at a later date.
The couple problems I had were noise infiltration through the HVAC air return, I tried baffling and lining the vertical rise of the duct but still had noise, so eventually closed it off. and the other was the "temp" wall to the workshop area being too light and the same problem as you with footfall noise in the kitchen area upstairs - when I rebuilt it I decoupled the top plate from the floor joists and added double drywall on both sides with resilient channel... (and a solid core door with gaskets... Smile ) we can sit in the dining room and hear LF from the theater room but still be able to have a normal conversation with company....with theater audio at reference level ! and that is so uncomfortably loud that the volume seldom goes that high in our theater. One day I need to build a hush box to deal with PJ fan noise..


The joists do cross kitchen/living room into dinning room (Above theater). The problem is i couldn't decouple the ceiling. I considered doing a resilient channel wall between workshop and theater but since the ceiling is what it is I'm not sure if it will help. Also have to deal with structural supports and pipes. It can be done just wish I knew if its really worth the trouble.

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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 25398
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2017 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey not sure if this stuff will work for you but check out "Peel and Seal Aluminum" from Lowes:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Instant-Waterproof-Repairs-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733


in this video the guy uses it as "poor mans dynamat":
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO4_71ROh5E

2:35 min into the video

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