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wassup30
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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 Link Posted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 11:40 pm Post subject: |
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| cmjohnson wrote: | Do you know how to get into the expert and service modes? I'm guessing yes, since you can converge it.
The basic process for getting best focus, or at least the way I do it, is to start with the green tube,
cutoff red and blue, hit MG focus, bring up a grid pattern, and defocus green so that the grid pattern is blurry.
Switch to the dot pattern.
When you defocus, the direction you move focus in determines if the dots will become rings, or if they will become
round blobs with a bright center.
Turn the contrast up to make the shape of the dots clear to the eye.
Work your way down from the 2P to the 6P adjustments, with the idea being that the dots need to be made
into clearly defined round blobs with a bright center at one extreme of focus, and at the other, clearly defined
round rings.
Go through the 2P to 6P adjustments at least twice, in order, just to be sure you got it right, and then, switch to the
E pattern and adjust the focus adjustment on the top of the list for sharpest central focus. Adjust mechanical focus here,
too, if you have not already done so.
Repeat the process in every convergence zone so all the corners are sharp.
Now switch back to the grid pattern and now you will check the scheimpflug adjustment. Go back into MG focus,
and make a note of your focus value. Defocus and look at the width of the grid lines, both horizontally and vertically.
If they are not of uniform width, you may need to adjust scheimpflug (the two hex bolts above each lens) using the wrench
that is stored under the lens hood. Adjust both horizontal and vertical scheimpflug so that the grid lines are of equal width, top to bottom and side to side. Readjust focus to its sharpest value when done.
I've found that looking at the defocused width of the grid lines is the most reliable, and easiest, way to determine if
scheimpflug is adjusted correctly. It's easier when the image is out of focus than when it's sharply focused.
Repeat the process for the red and blue tubes.
Remember to bring the contrast down when you don't NEED it to be that bright to see the shape of the dots in the dot test pattern. |
So the new green Tube is in!!! I did the focusing method described above! WOW!!! What a difference already! Finally feeling good about this whole thing! Thank you so much for this mini tutorial on focus!!!!!
Going to take a food break and fully set this bad boy up!!! :--)
Thanks again!
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Link Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 12:00 am Post subject: |
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That's the tube I sent you, I presume?
Another satisfied customer!
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wassup30
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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| Link Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 12:05 am Post subject: |
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| cmjohnson wrote: | That's the tube I sent you, I presume?
Another satisfied customer! |
I got the tube from Curt Palme along with the Sony g90 
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Link Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 12:28 am Post subject: |
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I sent a green tube to somebody recently, but I could not remember his screen name.
He's a member here.
I thought it might be you.
Whatever, that guy will be happy, too. He got a proven good and very fresh tube.
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wassup30
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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| Link Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 2:28 am Post subject: |
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How much for tubes usually? Maybe after a while I'll replace the blue and red one
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Link Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 3:07 am Post subject: |
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It's always negotiable, but I have been getting 350 per tube but for that price I swap it into your hardware for you and guarantee the work. And those are for tubes that are essentially new tubes. Zero wear, guaranteed.
Price drops if you buy two or more.
I also charge less for a bare tube if you want to do the swap work yourself. A G90 tube has a few little tricks to doing it,
but once you know not to lose the four little spacer pins, it's the easiest kind of tube to swap out in its hardware.
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wassup30
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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| Link Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 4:11 am Post subject: |
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Well I'll definitely come knocking on your door for tubes once I see these ones have signs of visible wear and tare! Thanks so much for your help!! :--)
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Link Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 4:21 am Post subject: |
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Sure. But be aware, tube production is going to end eventually. If you plan to keep your G90 for a while, you might consider buying spare tubes for it now while I still have some. I do not expect that my source will always be able to provide me with more. I have a really good stock of red tubes (18 that are perfect, I think) but blue and green are much, much less common.
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wassup30
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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| Link Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 4:24 am Post subject: |
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My Red one seems really good right now. Blue seems the least sharp of the 3 but I haven't fiddled and fully configured everything yet. Good advice though! ... How many Hours do you figure I can get out of fresh tubes?
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Link Posted: Fri Jun 23, 2017 4:41 am Post subject: |
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The higher the drive (contrast) the shorter the life. If you like a really bright picture wear will start within 1000 hours of use, but I run the tubes pretty easy and expect to put 5000 hours on them before any wear even becomes visible.
The "expected" useful tube life is around 10,000 hours, but that's "useful", not "beautiful picture", and G90s are known to be kind of hard on tubes. Mostly because they can be run bright and still have a sharp picture, where other projectors can be run as bright but they will not focus as well and be as sharp at the same brightness level.
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wassup30
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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| Link Posted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 2:17 am Post subject: |
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By the way thank you again for those tips on focusing! This thing is soooooooo much sharper than before! Night and day difference.
One thing though and i'm curious your thoughts on this. I sharpened everything up (more or less) and noticed there was a slight tinge of red to everything. So before messing with the colors or gain I figured I'd go thru the menus and play with certain settings. I believe it was ABLINK (was just trying random settings) I turned it "on" and all the colors came back ... I was like "sweet" but instantly I noticed I had lost all sharpness ... so I was like well that's no good. I go to turn it "off" and the colors remain but so does the level of sharpness .... ugh .... I take a look at my settings in MGFOCUS and see that they are the same as before (not sure how this is possible) ... So I spend another 2 hours meticulously sharpening the green tube and it now looks great but the values are completely different. What am I missing here? lol
Also I have an ISF calibrator coming in a week. How can I make sure whatever settings he applies will stay saved. I know about the memory button but this seems completely different. Any clue what happened?
Could it be because I recently replaced the green tube it needed to run for a while longer? Should I be running this thing straight for a while before this ISF calibrator comes? Thoughts?
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Link Posted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:25 am Post subject: |
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I am not enough of a G90 expert to have your answer for you. But go through your saved memories, and if you saved your focus, etc. adjustments, those saved memories are probably still there, you just have to recall the right one.
Start by just pressing the 1 thru 9 buttons to recall memories.
If you have a calibrator coming, let him deal with the color balance. You would be able to make some changes by eye in the
white balance (W/B) section of the remote (Gain and Bias) but again, why bother when the calibrator will do that for you in a few days.
Here's the full installation manual which covers memory usage and everything else.
http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/SonyG90_Install.pdf
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wassup30
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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| Link Posted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:30 am Post subject: |
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| cmjohnson wrote: | I am not enough of a G90 expert to have your answer for you. But go through your saved memories, and if you saved your focus, etc. adjustments, those saved memories are probably still there, you just have to recall the right one.
Start by just pressing the 1 thru 9 buttons to recall memories.
If you have a calibrator coming, let him deal with the color balance. You would be able to make some changes by eye in the
white balance (W/B) section of the remote (Gain and Bias) but again, why bother when the calibrator will do that for you in a few days.
Here's the full installation manual which covers memory usage and everything else.
http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/SonyG90_Install.pdf |
I checked the ABL Link function in the manual. Has to do with automatic brightness control. Kinda weird. And it appears my settings themselves didn't change. Wonder if it was because I recently replaced the tube and it needed to just run for a 5-10 hours before it "settled in" lol .... sometimes I want to punch myself in the face with these things lol .... oh well lets hope the sharpness stays put! As always thanks for the help!
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Link Posted: Sun Jun 25, 2017 3:45 am Post subject: |
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If the tube you installed is not TRULY a brand new tube, if it has even a few dozen hours on it, then it should be quite stable and its focus and sharpness should not drift much or even at all.
Even brand new tubes don't change focus much at all as they get run in. Not when they're electromagnetic focus tubes like the ones found in all 9" projectors.
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wassup30
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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| Link Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 8:27 am Post subject: |
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Currently hating life. Just spent about 6 hours over the last few days getting the green and blue tube for lack of a better word ... perfectly sharp! .... only the red left .... as I'm waiting for the tube to warm up i hear almost like a fuse blowing sound and the projector turns off .... Can't turn it back on! ... on the back of the projector it says 6C ..... can someone just kill me now please .... what does this mean?!?!
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wassup30
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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| Link Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 8:29 am Post subject: |
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NVM .... i know exactly what it is .... green tube is completely cracked  .... this sucks so much!
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Link Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 11:54 am Post subject: |
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I am sorry to hear that!
That is the third time I am personally aware of where a G90 has broken a tube.
My first G90 came with a broken blue tube. I recently replaced a broken green for somebody else, now this.
I've heard of other instances but haven't personally dealt with them.
The ones I've dealt with were unquestionably Sony factory jobs. so it's not a matter of workmanship, or at least
I have no direct evidence of that. But I find myself wondering about the way that Sony decided to install the
tubes in the mounting frame. There are four little metal pins that space the tube a set distance away from the
mounting frame. The purpose is to ensure that the silicone adhesive bead between the tube and frame is of consistent
thickness. But they also will conduct heat away from the tube. If one of them conducts the heat better than the other
pins, then you get a cold spot at that point on the tube relative to the rest. This thermal difference, if it is great enough,
WILL break a tube.
If you can post a picture showing WHERE the tube has broken, I will not be surprised at all to find that the crack crosses
over one of those four pins. In fact it probably originated there. Those pins are located at the centers of each side of the frame.
If that's the case, then I'm going to think that those spacer pins should not be metal. In fact if that's the case, then I will
discontinue the use of those pins and insert thin plastic spacers instead, which is what I do on Marquee tubes I install, which is
factory correct for Marquees.
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wassup30
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 30
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| Link Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 4:40 pm Post subject: |
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Here is a picture of the Tube. When I get the lens off the front of it I'll take some more pictures.
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cmjohnson
Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s
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| Link Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 5:02 pm Post subject: |
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Did I call that shot or what? 
Yep, top dead center, right under a spacer pin. I'm convinced.
If nothing else, the pin needs to be covered over with silicone before the tube is placed. And silicone
inside the hole where the pin sits, too, is a good idea.
I think that for future G90 retubing, I'll just use plastic spacers instead.
And, don't worry, I've got you covered on a replacement tube. Somehow we'll make a deal that works for all concerned.
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jbltecnicspro
Joined: 23 Apr 2016
Posts: 512
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| Link Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2017 5:31 pm Post subject: |
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Sheesh - sorry to hear that your tube cracked.
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