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A complete beginner and Barco Graphics 800

 
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kamilm94




Joined: 04 Jul 2016
Posts: 16
Location: Poland, Wrocław


PostLink    Posted: Fri May 26, 2017 4:33 pm    Post subject: A complete beginner and Barco Graphics 800 Reply with quote


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Hi,


A while ago I bought Barco Graphics 800 for cheap with spare, new factory red lamp, control unit [the black long metal box] and a box with few spare modules... so i guess I'm ready to make mistakes? Very Happy
And god damn it it's HUGE like hell, also heavy like hell. I had Seleco SVT-150, which was broken and i gave up repairing it [free electronic parts yay], and it was pretty big and heavy too, but this thing is two times that[u].

My problems for now is:

-how to maintain it? some conservation? Can i put it later somewhere where are no heaters AND don't care what winter will do to the electronics? Pretty naive i know, but I want to be sure, so I'll got possibility to move it.
-how to change firmware / main program? I got it with german firmware and i understand just two words maybe.
I bought RS232 cable, not crossed. Not really sure if this one is proper.
-I've downloaded all the stuff I found on your main site here:

http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco500_Downloads.shtm

And, besides the manuals, there is "Barco CRT Control Software for Windows" which doesn't really work with windows [I got Win 7 64 bit, but tried to run it on virtual machine with Windows XP with no success unfortunately Sad].
I guess that this program will let me change the firmware to the english one?
If somebody got the backup of the english file please put it here in this topic, so I can download and have normal language Very Happy.

-I'm trying to configure the image anyway, by looking at the english PDF downloaded from your site, and hoping that german words means the same thing. NOW I'm stuck with angle adjustment. From what I read i need to loose some screws around the tubes, so by rotating them [like in the focus setting, but -these screws-] I will rotate the whole image?

-Aaaaaaaand the last one. I CAN'T HOOK IT UP TO MY PC Sad I have no idea how. My friend got a laptop with VGA out, and his laptop recognized the projector, but my PC not. I got Radeon HD 6850 with 2 HDMIs and 2 DVIs.
I had my PC plugged into analog input of my monitor for really long time, so i know the converter [dvi -> VGA] and graphics card works, but for some reason, the projector on my pc is unrecognizable Sad. Don't really know what to do.





I'll REALLY appreciate any help.

Regards
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24305
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Sat May 27, 2017 4:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unforunately I threw out all my Barco 800 stuff as I didn't have a call for it at all. What I would do is simply follow the manual that you've downloaded and follow it, and ignore the writing on the screen.

you really need to run this beast with a computer with VGA out. The other thing is, the projector needs to see negative sync, which most likely is not coming from your computer, all new computers are positive sync. You therefore need something like an Extron 203 box, that has a sync inversion function. It will take the VGA input and force negative sync on the BNC outputs. Those boxes are cheap on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Extron-RGB-203-Rxi-with-ADSP-Pulled-from-Working-Station-Good-Condition-/201896526556?hash=item2f01f882dc:g:s5QAAOSw5UZY9mTs

hopefully someone here has an old 800 in their basement, and maybe they'd be kind enough to send you the controller board, or at least the chips out of it. Beware that some firmware revisions may not work. Also, find an XP computer to try and run the software. Win 7 with XP emulation will probably not work. remember, this projector came out in 1989, and was discontinued about 1992! Smile
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cmjohnson




Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s


PostLink    Posted: Sat May 27, 2017 4:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My suggestion, if you want to enjoy the beauty of CRT projection, is to get something like a Sony D50 or 12xx series Sony unit, or maybe a Marquee 85xx with good tubes. They won't cost very much. Even the top gun 9" machines are pretty cheap these days,
but you can get an 8" machine in great shape for under 500 bucks these days. Maybe even a Barco 808.

There are problems associated with having the OLDEST models that make them hard to have any fun with, as I am sure you have already found out.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24305
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Sat May 27, 2017 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

He's in Poland. It's not like they are a dime a dozen there! Smile
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26690
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Sat May 27, 2017 5:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try 1024x768@60hz from the PC. Most of the time by default 1024x768 is negative sync on the horizontal and vertical.
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kamilm94




Joined: 04 Jul 2016
Posts: 16
Location: Poland, Wrocław


PostLink    Posted: Sat May 27, 2017 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi

So here is an update:
I got the software to work with my PC, but since I don't have any image of the firmware, I'll just have to wait I guess.
image: http://imgur.com/a/oXqFT
Also I got it to work with my graphics card. Yesterday evening [or today night?] I tried to mess around with resolution, and in the meantime
I got an idea to isolate that projector, so it could be the only graphical output aaaaaand... voila! ...Kind of.
The picture was shaky as hell, the only visible part was the upper area with only few pixels of height, and when I tried to minimize the window,
the projector gave up at the same moment, displaying some error message in german.
It disappears after one second so I don't even know what is the problem.




CurtPalme wrote:
What I would do is simply follow the manual that you've downloaded and follow it, and ignore the writing on the screen.


That's basically what I'm doing since I got it, but it's hard anyway Very Happy

CurtPalme wrote:
you really need to run this beast with a computer with VGA out.


Yeah the effect is pretty much same as with my friend's laptop, which got native VGA out, not like mine. Although when i find something simplier, like dvd, I'll of course try to check the signal.

CurtPalme wrote:
The other thing is, the projector needs to see negative sync, which most likely is not coming from your computer, all new computers are positive sync. You therefore need something like an Extron 203 box, that has a sync inversion function. It will take the VGA input and force negative sync on the BNC outputs. Those boxes are cheap on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Extron-RGB-203-Rxi-with-ADSP-Pulled-from-Working-Station-Good-Condition-/201896526556?hash=item2f01f882dc:g:s5QAAOSw5UZY9mTs


About that negative sync, can i just build some inverter from scrtach like this one?

https://www.compuphase.com/electronics/inv555.htm

VGA levels are probably about 0.7~1V.
+ The thing you mentioned, I believe it's cheap, for somebady with fulltime job and who doesn't has to pay student debts Very Happy. This projector was 5 times cheaper than that Very Happy
I'm thinking about buying HDMI->VGA converter, like this one: http://www.delock.de/produkte/G_65346/merkmale.html.
I know it's not HDFury Very Happy [by the way why HDFury is so damn expensive when on the market are cheap things like this? It does the same job I guess?]

CurtPalme wrote:
He's in Poland. It's not like they are a dime a dozen there! Smile


I'M SO OFFENDED.
Oh my godness XDD I know my country isn't very poular, but it isn't another Kongo or Namibia. CRT projectors aren't as rare as medical help in the african village lol. But yeah, such thing is pretty rare anyway.


So my question is: inverter or buy that cheap, hdmi->vga OR, that black box is the only solution? Sad


Regards,
Kamil


PS: I'm using PowerStrip but as I said, it doesn;t really make any change :/
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24305
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Sat May 27, 2017 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually compared to North America, CRT projectors are pretty rare in Europe, that's why they sell for so much! I'll go even further, the capital of CRT projectors is the US, for every 100 or so I bought out of the US, I'd buy one or two in Canada, so it's the same up here.

You definitely can build your own sync inverter, by all means!\

The reason the Fury is expensive (now discontinued) is that it was HDCP compliant. you have no idea whether any Chinese made box will pass a bluRay signal, although they should work with a PC output, as there is no HDCP encryption if a PC program is used. Try it, but be prepared to be disappointed. Very Happy

BTW, I read german, if you want to post a screen shot of the error message, I'll translate.
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jbltecnicspro




Joined: 23 Apr 2016
Posts: 512



PostLink    Posted: Sat May 27, 2017 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I didn't read all of the thread in its entirety in detail, but your graphics driver should have an "Advanced" tab or something like that in which you can set up a custom resolution, including the sync polarity, on your VGA output. I know that my nVidia control panel allows this, and I've seen Intel control panels that offer this kind of granular adjustment. Not sure about AMD but at one time the company they bought out (ATI) was considered the king of VGA outputs for consumer graphics, so I'm assuming they can. Dig a little bit into your graphics drivers control panel.

There should be no need for you to build a sync inverter.
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kamilm94




Joined: 04 Jul 2016
Posts: 16
Location: Poland, Wrocław


PostLink    Posted: Sat May 27, 2017 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jbltecnicspro wrote:
I didn't read all of the thread in its entirety in detail, but your graphics driver should have an "Advanced" tab or something like that in which you can set up a custom resolution, including the sync polarity, on your VGA output. I know that my nVidia control panel allows this, and I've seen Intel control panels that offer this kind of granular adjustment. Not sure about AMD but at one time the company they bought out (ATI) was considered the king of VGA outputs for consumer graphics, so I'm assuming they can. Dig a little bit into your graphics drivers control panel.

There should be no need for you to build a sync inverter.



I was searching for that with no success Sad However i found "sync. on composite" which doesn not affect image at all.


EDIT:
Found this in PowerStrip and immediately changed from + to -



However effect is still the same Sad The image JUST won't show up. I'd like to add normal PAL or NTSC resolution to test it, but then i have to unplug the cable aaaaand plug in the projector, but then, I guess PowerStrip is aborting new setting.
At least i think so because the effect is all the time the same >Sad.
While I'm writing this post, I'm using my normal daily monitor Samsung S24C300 -on analog input-, with these setting like you can see on the picture. Everything works, that monitor doesn't care about analog signals polarity, SO i can assume that PowerStrip saved the configuration at least for that?

UPDATE:

Somehow i catched the signal with a projector from PC and the whole thing looks like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WPc-RYuGr38&feature=youtu.be

Not really sure if this could be cap problem [or it really could, but on RGB board only? I mean the one which can provide that source] because without any source it looks like that:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AV6BuDCWDI8&feature=youtu.be

I know i have to setup the whole thing


AND YES I KNOW MY ROOM IS SMALL, but now i can't move it to my home [the place where i recorded both movies is not where i live Razz]
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jbltecnicspro




Joined: 23 Apr 2016
Posts: 512



PostLink    Posted: Sat May 27, 2017 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see that you have "composite sync" checked under the Synchronization tab. Uncheck that and see what it does? RGBHV does not use composite sync. It probably won't have any affect though because I think that may just enable composite sync if you have the option. Who knows...

Also - Powerstrip is a 3rd party application and may not always be guaranteed to actually affect the parameters your trying to affect. What kind of graphics card do you have? Here's a screen shot of Nvidia's control panel:



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kamilm94




Joined: 04 Jul 2016
Posts: 16
Location: Poland, Wrocław


PostLink    Posted: Wed Jun 07, 2017 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi again,

Sorry for leaving this topic abandoned, but not really. I was just busy with my studies.
In fact, few days ago I was able to work it again and guess what. All I was doing, was pressing 4th button [sync. on green] instead of 5th [sync. on H V pins]. I felt so stupid. Embarassed
What was my new problem was getting good frequency to achieve 1080p and i [progressive doesn't really differ from interlaced one but i might see that a bit wrong because for now, i don't have cinema-like room].
ANYWAY my big problem now may seem to be really easy and basic.
I'm stuck at tubes configuration. Speaking in detail, raster configuration. Why am i mentioning tubes? Well, in the owner's manual, there is written, that you have to look into the tube [first the green one], reduce contrast [im decreasing it to 0] and increase brightness [I did it to the max], AND THEN adjust, by pressing arrow keys on remote, the center of the whole picture [raster? as it is named] while staring inside.
The process I'm talking about is here:
http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/BarcoGraphics800_User.pdf
on the page 51.

Well for me it seems to be illogical, because:
1. You don't have ANY reference inside of the tube, where the center is.

My solution to that was to use that as the reference, and overall center, so later i can put red and blue color onto it.

2. What is the point of this? Why do I have to look into the tube? Why isn't it used as my assumption tells me. In the menu of that model there is no such thing like "move the image" or so. Normally anybody would assume that it's just basic centering???

That does make a problem I think, because later, i'm adjusting convergence, and the blue color seems to be always few centimeters wider than green and red, and a bit taller i think. [that thing is weird too]. Even if I configure it as nice and clean as i can, there is a big blue wing on the left side. Not sure if I should cut it off by blanking settings [the last step in geometry configuration], because when I change the resolution in PowerStrip, image from PC will be there, In the zone where I cut picture off a bit [to get rid of unnecessary blue thing], so blanking is pointless.

Overall image at the and looks not so sharp, especially at the bottom and in the corners. I have no idea how the dude from here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iayWJ1_xros

did it so well. No sh*tty quality at all. Is it because of HDFury? Since i found out that i don't need that. I have no idea what's the secret. Long hours of configuration?

Also focusing in the corners is done with the srews UNDER the tubes, like the instructions says. Someone who had that projector before me, wrote same numbers behind certain screws [referring to the instruction i hope], but completely above the tubes, and under that giant cover. Furthermore, there are no screws under the tubes.

That thing... is hard to configure, but I hope it will be at least rewarding Very Happy. Why I won't get rid of that almost 30 year old thing? Because I love to mess around with old electronics. It's just that. When I screw up something, and the fume will start showing, then I will think about throwing that into garbage.



Regards,
Kamil
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km987654




Joined: 25 Jul 2007
Posts: 2857
Location: Australia

TV/Projector: Barco BG809s


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2017 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kamilm94 wrote:
Hi again,

Sorry for leaving this topic abandoned, but not really. I was just busy with my studies.
In fact, few days ago I was able to work it again and guess what. All I was doing, was pressing 4th button [sync. on green] instead of 5th [sync. on H V pins]. I felt so stupid. Embarassed
What was my new problem was getting good frequency to achieve 1080p and i [progressive doesn't really differ from interlaced one but i might see that a bit wrong because for now, i don't have cinema-like room].
ANYWAY my big problem now may seem to be really easy and basic.
I'm stuck at tubes configuration. Speaking in detail, raster configuration. Why am i mentioning tubes? Well, in the owner's manual, there is written, that you have to look into the tube [first the green one], reduce contrast [im decreasing it to 0] and increase brightness [I did it to the max], AND THEN adjust, by pressing arrow keys on remote, the center of the whole picture [raster? as it is named] while staring inside.
The process I'm talking about is here:
http://www.curtpalme.com/docs/BarcoGraphics800_User.pdf
on the page 51.

Well for me it seems to be illogical, because:
1. You don't have ANY reference inside of the tube, where the center is.

My solution to that was to use that as the reference, and overall center, so later i can put red and blue color onto it.

2. What is the point of this? Why do I have to look into the tube? Why isn't it used as my assumption tells me. In the menu of that model there is no such thing like "move the image" or so. Normally anybody would assume that it's just basic centering???

That does make a problem I think, because later, i'm adjusting convergence, and the blue color seems to be always few centimeters wider than green and red, and a bit taller i think. [that thing is weird too]. Even if I configure it as nice and clean as i can, there is a big blue wing on the left side. Not sure if I should cut it off by blanking settings [the last step in geometry configuration], because when I change the resolution in PowerStrip, image from PC will be there, In the zone where I cut picture off a bit [to get rid of unnecessary blue thing], so blanking is pointless.

Overall image at the and looks not so sharp, especially at the bottom and in the corners. I have no idea how the dude from here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iayWJ1_xros

did it so well. No sh*tty quality at all. Is it because of HDFury? Since i found out that i don't need that. I have no idea what's the secret. Long hours of configuration?

Also focusing in the corners is done with the srews UNDER the tubes, like the instructions says. Someone who had that projector before me, wrote same numbers behind certain screws [referring to the instruction i hope], but completely above the tubes, and under that giant cover. Furthermore, there are no screws under the tubes.

That thing... is hard to configure, but I hope it will be at least rewarding Very Happy. Why I won't get rid of that almost 30 year old thing? Because I love to mess around with old electronics. It's just that. When I screw up something, and the fume will start showing, then I will think about throwing that into garbage.



Regards,
Kamil



The BG800 isn't going to display a 1080p image a 1080i or 720p will be fine. I am not even sure it will synce to 1080p but if you do manage to get it to sync to a 1080p it probably won't be great. I had a BG1101 which is the later version of your set plus 9 inch tubes rather than the 8 inch one you have and it would not display a 1080p image at all. Having said that if you spend the time you can get a great image from that projector but there are a lot of things to look at for that to happen.

Yes you do have to look into the lens to centre the raster on the tube face. The reference points are the sides of the phosphor which you can see when looking through the lens.

To get the best image possible from any projector you will need to spend as much time as necessary configuring the CPC setup. This is probably the most important step in a good image and on an ES projector like the BG800 even more important.
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jbltecnicspro




Joined: 23 Apr 2016
Posts: 512



PostLink    Posted: Sat Jun 10, 2017 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kamil, I strongly suggest you read the definitive CRT setup guide on this website before proceeding any further:

http://www.curtpalme.com/CRTSetupGuide.shtm

After you're done with that, watch this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCmhC1p5ANw

In that video, they do a Sony VPH-1292 (which is way more capable and complicated than your 800) but you'll still get the idea.
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