CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

I'm troubleshooting why my pj wont fire up - with old boards new or whatever. I've had the projector down for so long I made a stupid mistake that I'm usually obsessed about and making it right with the wires. Not this time.

So, to make matters worse, I inserted the white cable from the VNB on the lower pin and not the upper.. but since it didn't fire up but only half way, with fans running I mean, there was no spot burn? I wont know until I get it started.

The Curt method, which I used before successfully, when the pj was stone dead though, solved it then. I removed board by board until it suddenly fired up and made the fans run.

Question: What could keep it from firing up?

Tried different HVPS - CLM - VIM - moome card - VNB - but so far not a different LVPS. 2010 version in there now, should be alright being that new. The other one is only a few years older.

**********************

Ah.. the VNB socket on the tube is mushy requiring sensitive hands installing it.. I remember something about that red VBN was the culprit that time, maybe it is now too.. will try with just green + blue asap.

I take that back, I have not tested the new MP VNB, still in the box I see. Sorry.

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

Look at the diagnostic lights on the back of the projector on the CLM. They can give you a general idea of where to look.

LVPS, HVPS (EHT), horizontal scan failure, or vertical scan failure.

Not actually sure what the C means? Communications failure?

Remove the three anode leads from the splitter block to avoid any possibility of tube damage, and from there
you can pull out every board but the CLM and HDM and it should be able to power up assuming there's continuity in all
the critical voltage paths.

Even a failed deflection yoke can keep the unit from powering up. That will be accompanied by an H.fail or V.Fail indicator.

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

Great suggestions, will try them as we go. I will first off swap LVPS and then move on with your suggestions. From recollection the Diagnostics was fine yesterday and only time it went bananas was with another CLM. I'll start over in a few hours and post images from the back to give some clues. Thanks.

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

A bad CLM can cause ANY problem you can imagine, and more. I have one here that only has one problem: It will not allow the HVPS to power up and generate the anode voltage. I've got another one that works but won't generate any internal video...SOMETIMES.

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

I'm using a 2005 VIM + CLM that worked fine for years odds are they're still ok. So the CLM + stock VIM is out. I'm only using the new modded moome V3. It is brand new so that too is out.

But wonder about the diods on the moome as they change from being green to yellow sometimes. Same goes for the moome V1. Mixed in there is a red diode coming on too. I'll document more as we go.

I'll try moome V1 later.

I am trying to force a PS4 1080p60Hz signal to the pj, that was first used on my TV to sure it's on and working, and then have the HDMI cable shifted over to the pj.

I'll be gone for a while now. Back in an hour and wonder what the next move should be.

So all the cables coming from the back plate, whatever it's called but the one that folds down, can be detached leaving only CLM + HDM + VNB on it?

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 5:03 pm Post subject:

No Marquee is ever a write-off!

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Sun Mar 05, 2017 5:41 pm Post subject:

Back to the question, almost every board in the set can cause no HV.

H board
HVPS
V board
CLM
neck boards
VIM
Intermittent connector under the red tube going to the HVPS.

You can disconnect the neck boards one at a time to see if the other two power up. Reseat the H board and the daughter board on top of it. THe HVPS and V board would need swapping out to make sure they are OK.

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

Glad to report that I got it started with the older HDM.. the swap didn't work yesterday but today the Gods said yes.

Vertical movement also works now with another card. The shrink modded one wont cooperate so unsolder them 3 bits and move over to the VDC one. That would make it a pure 2010.. with the exception of the HDM which I need the older one for.

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

I can't get this spotless 2010 9518 HDM to work. No signal after reseating it 5 times or so. So I am using a dirty looking 2005 HDM instead which I wrote noisy on a year ago. I'm not sure the 9518 HDM ever worked, must go back and read up what I said back then.

Any who, does anyone have a surplus of 2010+ projectors and could sell me one of the HDM:s?

It bugs the hell out me I can't use mine seeing it looks so flawless. I wonder if it would work better if I changed to the 2005 mother board. A lot a work just to find out.

VDC 50-002003-080 ISSUE 4

upload a picture

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Mon Mar 06, 2017 7:07 pm Post subject:

No, the HDMs do fail, and all are interchangable, so if it doesn't work, there's a problem on the board.

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

Na, I'm going to change the upper and lower mother board as the bloody remote does not work either without wire. So I will get to try both the HDM + remote a second time.

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

The remote needs a jumper changed when it gets changed from wired to wireless operation.

Those jumpers are accessible inside the battery compartment.

Move the jumper wire which is closest to the cable connector.

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

It's already set that way, I looked at the other remote which was the wireless one, and it is the same.

I finally got it all working with installing the new mods, I had to go back and forth with the 2005 vs 2010 boards, and came to conclusion that 2010 was a bad year and the dirty 2005 saved me many times.

I eventually ended up with a 2005 CLM + HDM + new MP VIM 02 and VNB. So glad I got it working and made a fast quick alignment, but then I just had to give the good 'ol 2010 HDM another try, and of course it didn't work so went back to 2005 again.

Then the mighty Gods decided enough is enough and made the raster miles apart and now the converge is frozen solid. Can't do anything with it. So I went thru all the cables and reinserted every upstanding board there is and even changed it back and forth to be safe, but no, frozen converge it is.

Who would have thought, that changing the HDM can get you f ed for rest of your life. Went thru several CLNs because what else is there to do, and don't know what to do any more but sigh and go to sleep.

If I only had a little bit more money I would kick this peace of sh*t to death and go get me an RS600 on sale.

Off to bed and cry now.

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

Be aware that while the HDM itself is "universal", that is, any HDM might work in any Marquee, there are some very definite limitations on what version firmware on the HDM's daughter board are compatible with a given CLM.

The service bulletin that explains this should be here on this site in the documentation library.

It may be that you can get the newer HDM to work if you swap the daughter cards around.

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

Yes, I was looking at the smaller board on the HDM yesterday, on the above picture, and wonder if it even can be loosened with only the plastic screw in the middle or if I must unsolder everything around it. Any soldering and I wont do it. But I figure you mean the daughter boards on the CLMs so that I can do. Interesting, maybe the frozen convergement will loosen up after that.

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

I mean the smaller board on the HDM. Yes, it just plugs into the HDM and you do have to remove the plastic screw, no soldering iron required.

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

You were right, I changed the 2005 DB over to the 2010 HDM and didn't start. DB 50-2107-05p ISSUE 2.

Then went the other way with 2005 HDM and 2010 DB and started. DB 50-2107-05 ISSUE 1.

Your tip paid off. Thanks! The convergence works too now

The troublesome 9518 HDM has this small chip protruding and wonder if it scratches the bare aluminum cover and acts up.. but the best would be a new solid HDM. There are notorious 9518 hoarders out there.. you just got to find them.

imagehost

thewolfman · Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden

You redeemed yourself Parker! I'm now running contrast at 100 without blooming. It's amazing to ramp contrast that high and watch nothing happen with the grid pattern. No smearing or anything. But settled with 80 which was as high I could go before. There is no audible noise as I ramp up the contrast either but that may be with the help of fresher parts in combination.

But I refuse to believe I need to find the sweet spot for the focus coil, the Frankenyokes are secure all the way forward so that's where I'll leave them. That's my part.

I never got around to make a full blown set up tonight, I just wanted to see if the brightness issue really was eliminated, and it is, so I simply boxed the lenses in place and never even bothered to fiddle with the magnets. So there is lots more to do to make the image much much better. I'll redo my write up when the day comes and it is all it can be, with all my ten thumbs up. It will be fun fun day!

10 months worth to waiting was in my mind perfectly alright!

But I need to do something about the remote as it is driving me insane sitting by the sofa all the time.