CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

I remember having a Marquee that would only run if the rear heat sink on its hinges was rotated to the "open" position. Problem fixed once I found the pinched G2 lead and replaced it.

I've said it before: Mechanically speaking, the Marquee chassis is the simplest and cheapest to build of any top ranked CRT projector,
and actually it represents cheap engineering. Oh, it gets the job done, but look at the chassis build quality of a Marquee vs. that of a G90 or Barco and they are in very different leagues.

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

the machine ran for 7 months without a problem, and the OP was only adjusting the picture and didn't sound like he got into the chassis, so unlikely pinched wire.

It's going to be either Focus board or neck-board, I have both here from 8000's that are looking for a good home, just pay the shipping.

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

Oh, it's a solid chassis, but it's built of SIMPLE parts that are easy to fabricate and there aren't many of them. Assembled, it's a good structure, but can you name another projector that has a reputation for allowing the horizontal deflection module to FALL OUT if you remove the covers and one screw too many?

The Marquee would be the only projector that even MIGHT be cost effective to build again if the demand was there for another 100 brand new units. Every mechanical part is simple to fabricate and made of flat or bar stock. Only the neck card cages and inner side shields are even made of bent sheet metal. (Ok, top cover and lens box cover, too. But those aren't main chassis parts.)

It really is a good example of using simple engineering to accomplish a simple task. Though the G90 chassis is a marvel of the
sheet metal shop, and quite elegant, it's OVERKILL.

gjaky · Joined: 05 Jun 2010 Posts: 2790 Location: Budapest, Hungary

I think the AmPrs were the cheapest to build, if we can call them high performers (and why not?). Otherwise Marquees were rather expensive to build, because everything is discretely built, but this is also why it could survive so long.

cerickson · Joined: 13 Oct 2016 Posts: 32

So I took out all of the boards in the back one at a time and turned on unit and still clicking
Am I missing any of the other boards to disconnect and try?
Can anyone call me? Just to make sure I am checking everything
Or FaceTime?
605-254-6132

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 3:14 am Post subject:

Did you turn on the set each time after pulling one board out? It sounds like you pulled them all out, put them back in, and then turned the set on.

Pull one board out, power up. If the clicking is still there, power down, unplug, wait 30 seconds, put the board back in, then pull another board out, power up, and repeat, etc.

cerickson · Joined: 13 Oct 2016 Posts: 32

I have taken every board that I can see off and re-plugged the LVPS back in and still clicking with the standby light still flashing
All of the boards on the back and the two in the middle.. Am I missing any?

cerickson · Joined: 13 Oct 2016 Posts: 32

Yes I did do one at a time
I did all in the back besides the main one with the led sensor lights
And then the two boards in the middle

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4379 Location: Phoenix

Hello

Pull the high voltage power supply out an inch to disconnect it, the hvps runs on 390 volts from the lvps and could be shorted inside.

Also, underneath the red tube, unplug the wired remote if installed, and the IR sensor if installed, but not both at the same time. I have seen shorted keypads and sensors a few times.

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

You should have a spare LVPS anyway. I highly suggest you buy one from Curt.

Even if it's still good (I doubt it) it is on its last legs. Good to have spares!

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2017 2:56 pm Post subject:

both posts above are good. Unplug the wired remote under the top cover if it's there, I've had the odd one of those short out, causing what you say. I forgot about that.

cerickson · Joined: 13 Oct 2016 Posts: 32

So I am trying the video neck boards now
Do I just have to pull the large white pin connector
And that's it and test or do I need to disconnect the entire board before plugging in the LVPS and turning on to see if it clicks

cerickson · Joined: 13 Oct 2016 Posts: 32

If so I have pulled all video neck boards from the main connector pin and it still is clicking when I plug the LVPS in.
I also checked both the sensor and remote wire as well

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Mar 02, 2017 3:35 am Post subject:

I'm now leaning towards the LVPS being bad. Based on what you've reported back, that's where I'm at with this. Email me at curtpalme at shaw.ca and I can get you a replacement.

cerickson · Joined: 13 Oct 2016 Posts: 32

Curt, I just pulled the control module out and the clicking stopped
Is that the one you said would not communicate then?
The one with the lithium power module

cerickson · Joined: 13 Oct 2016 Posts: 32

I was under the impression that was the one I couldn't pull out until I gave up after pulling all the others out I have it another look after pulling others and decided to pull it
Just wondering

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

DO NOT RUN A MARQUEE WITH THE WHITE WIRE ON THE NECK BOARDS DISCONNECTED!!!!!!!

That white wire is the G2 lead and with it disconnected the tubes will go to FULL OUTPUT and will not be able to control the brightness.

If you atttempt to power down the projector in that state, you WILL cause spot burns on the tube faces.

If you ever end up running a Marquee in this condition, either you reconnect the G2 lead CAREFULLY to the correct pin, or you have to pull out the P14 plug located on the motherboard on the side, under the blue tube, wait for all tube emission to fade away, and THEN power the unit down. You can't spot burn the tubes this way.

cerickson · Joined: 13 Oct 2016 Posts: 32

Cmjohnson I am not powering up the projector at all just plugging the cord into LVPS to see if it clicks
I have not powered up projector at all just trying to get the LVPS to stop clicking

cerickson · Joined: 13 Oct 2016 Posts: 32

Nevermind Curt, I re-read your post earlier.. The projector needs that to power up so I'm sure that board is not the issue