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can i get the punch out of a G90 like a dlp?
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john t




Joined: 02 Feb 2015
Posts: 8



PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 4:43 am    Post subject: can i get the punch out of a G90 like a dlp? Reply with quote


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I just got my g90 set and it has the 3d ready moome card on it. I'm dealing with it being dim from the straight signal from my satellite. I was told it'll be a little dim from the card but the screen just doesn't pop like an dlp projector or plasma flatscreen. Even the Epson 2000.00 projector is sharper and brighter. Am I asking to much from crt? Or is 1080p24 that much better of a signal things just look better? I was really hoping that I speant the money on the moome card and a nice set from Curt would compete. But now it looks like I can spend another bundle of money and get a scaler to see if that does it. Do I just move on or can I get that pop that's expected these days out of electronics?
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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A CRT will generally not be as bright or as sharp as most digitals, but set up correctly, on a decent screen, a G90 should make a stunning picture. What it lacks in sharpness and brightness, it should more than make up for with gorgeous color and eye-popping black level and contrast that wipes the floor with an Epson LCD. If sharpness and brightness are priorities, and contrast and color are not, then CRT probably isn't for you.

What screen size and material are you using? What is the contrast setting on the G90?

SC
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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26690
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The G90 will take a 1080p 60 signal. The only one it won't take is the 1080p 24.

You can adjust the color saturation from the service menu. You don't HAVE to have the fancy scaler to do that. You will need one to get from 1080p24fps to 1080p60fps but you can get a good used Lumagen like the one that just went on eBay for $100 or so to do that OR get a different satellite box that can output 1080p/60.

If you spend the time tweaking that beast just right it will look fantastic. Combined with the Moome card's gamma boost and you will have a great picture.
It just takes a little time.

What screen are you running? What is the gain on it? I've seen G90's in action and while they don't have the artificial sharpness of digital they are plenty bright. Especially on a good screen.

Plus no annoying trails or rainbows like DLP

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CasetheCorvetteman




Joined: 09 Nov 2008
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PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No reason a G90 shouldnt be very bright...
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Spanky Ham




Joined: 22 Mar 2006
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PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure what to say if you have seen the other pj tech. A G90 isn't going to look like a DLP, because the ANSI cr is drastically different. Also, if you want a bright image then you are going to have to have a high gain screen.
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john t




Joined: 02 Feb 2015
Posts: 8



PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 6:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure of the material. It's a Day-lite screen. White. Not sure of the gains. My other Sony sets seemed brighter n more pop than this one. I'm not sure whatI'm doing wrong then. All I can figure is iit's the moome card like I was told. I'm putting my contrast up at about 60 and around there with the brightness. Don't get me wrong, the colors are there but the whole screen doesn't just pop. It's like looking at a good tv that turned down. My screen size is 96" wide 4:3 set up. And I will try the saturation in the service menu tomorrow.
On the moome card, what exactly is the gamma boost doing? I have not touched those settings at all. I know there's two adjustments...
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gnnash




Joined: 10 Jul 2013
Posts: 216
Location: Lake Elmo, MN


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know about a G90, but I know on my old 1271 and my 1209s, I have to turn the brightness WAY below where you have it in order to get a proper black level, that should help quite a bit to increase depth of the picture.

Starting out with a simple calibration from Digital Video Essentials, an AVS 709 disc, or even the built-in test patterns on Sony blu-rays should help you to get a much better picture than out-of-the-box.

Keep in mind, with a CRT, adjusting the "contrast" control adjusts the intensity (or brightness, really) of white, and adjusting the "brightness" control adjusts the intensity of the picture near black (kinda counter intuitive). So adjusting the brightness to a higher level will not help the picture "pop" by any means, it will just wash out the image. On the machines that I have played with, brightness needs to be down around 30 or so for a proper black level and better depth.
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Nashou66




Joined: 12 Jan 2007
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PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What gnnash said .

+1

Nashou

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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26690
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

john t wrote:
I'm not sure of the material. It's a Day-lite screen. White. Not sure of the gains. My other Sony sets seemed brighter n more pop than this one. I'm not sure whatI'm doing wrong then. All I can figure is iit's the moome card like I was told. I'm putting my contrast up at about 60 and around there with the brightness. Don't get me wrong, the colors are there but the whole screen doesn't just pop. It's like looking at a good tv that turned down. My screen size is 96" wide 4:3 set up. And I will try the saturation in the service menu tomorrow.
On the moome card, what exactly is the gamma boost doing? I have not touched those settings at all. I know there's two adjustments...


Try this before farting around in the service menu:

Brightness 30-40, Contrast 70-80 Don't run the contrast too high, you'll wear your tubes faster.

To understand Gamma correction read this: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5416

Which Moome card do you have? IFB-3D?

In any event don't touch the "Contrast" turn pot on the card. That's for advanced setup. You may even want to cover it with tape so you don't accidentally turn the wrong one while you are adjusting the gamma.

Put a dark image up on the screen, like a space movie, and then you can adjust the "Gamma" turn pot to bring out the shadow detail. You'll see it happen right before your eyes.

After you get the gamma adjusted you will likely have to turn down the brightness a few clicks.

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CIR Engineering




Joined: 25 Aug 2008
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PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are you settings for red, green, and blue bias and gain? What about gamma in the G90 menu? What are your contrast and brightness settings.

I don't recommend using any gamma correction on the G90 with the Moome card. The G90 is the only front projection CRT that has full gamma control built into the projector. The gamma on the G90 is usually much lower than any other CRT projector and the Moome can only make the gamma even lower. Lower gamma equals brighter image while higher gamma equals darker image with more depth (very simplified). The gamma on the G90 gets too low if you correct gamma on the Moome board and this will certainly take away depth and pop.

Also, the Moome board will not make the picture dimmer or have less pop so I am not sure what you are referring to? Reed the manual for the Moome card and make sure your card is set to 16-235 or "A" on the Moome remote.

craigr

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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26690
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CIR Engineering wrote:
. The G90 is the only front projection CRT that has full gamma control built into the projector.

craigr


Hey I learnt something today Thumbs Up

See John, at this 9 years and I'm still learning. Have patience. You'll get there.

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CIR Engineering




Joined: 25 Aug 2008
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Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AnalogRocks wrote:
CIR Engineering wrote:
. The G90 is the only front projection CRT that has full gamma control built into the projector.

craigr


Hey I learnt something today Thumbs Up

See John, at this 9 years and I'm still learning. Have patience. You'll get there.

...at least I don't think there is another FP CRT with gamma control... is there? A lot of rear projection CRT's have gamma, but that is more due to the fact that they run through some sort of color decoder chip anyway.

craigr

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mp20748




Joined: 12 Sep 2006
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Location: Maryland

TV/Projector: 9500LC Ultra / Super 02 and 03 VIM


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're right Craig. The G90 is the only, and that gamma system is done right
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john t




Joined: 02 Feb 2015
Posts: 8



PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks a ton Craig. I just hope I can get the expectations out of this Sony. I've been looking around and it just seems crt projection is out of date and it's struggling really hard to keep up. I love projectors and the new stuff is looking sweet. I just hope I really didn't waste my money on something that is just not going to compete. I'm just discouraged with the whole new signal issues and I really thought a nice crt could out do a digital projector. Crt used to be the way to go.
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CIR Engineering




Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 4264
Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, any mainstream video reference person is going to be under the belief that CRT is dead and not capable. That is totally untrue and most folks today don't understand CRT's capabilities. Manufacturers and retail outlets have no reason to promote CRT because they are much more expensive to build and they are not being sold in stores new anymore (also manu digitals are lighter, smaller, easier to set up). That leads to sales people being literally ignorant.

Current CRT enthusiasts in my mind come in two primary flavors or a mix of the two. You either are going with CRT because you can get some incredible images out of even less desirable and inexpensive (or free) projectors, or you want the very best video you can get.

I work as a subcontractor for a lot of ultra high end home automation and theater installers and integrators. I'm talking about home systems that fall somewhere between $250,000.00 all the way over $3,000,000.00 on some systems. What you may find surprising is that the owners of many of these high end shops still keep their own CRT (or CRT stack or blend) in their own theaters at home. I also work for a lot of individuals who are into movies in some capacity (I have several producer and actor clients) or another and many of them still insist on using CRT in their own home theaters. This is similar to me too, I have a G90 and love it even though I work on new digital projectors that cost close to $100,000 regularly and even more sometimes. When I get home after working on the new ultra high end digitals I am always amazed at how much more I like the image from my G90. One of my clients who has a nice digital and a G90 in the same theater told me that watching the G90 is "like getting a hug." The video just looked so much more natural on the G90 to him.

So if you are willing to take your time, learn, tweak, throw in TLC, you can get a reference quality image out of a G90 that will give any projector out there a run for its money.

Have fun but stay patient.

craigr

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john t




Joined: 02 Feb 2015
Posts: 8



PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Honestly I've gotten some amazing results out of my Sony 1031 I put new tubes in and my 1231 as well. I guess I just gotta tweak. I'm actually working with the set now. Adjust the gains and bias. I had not touched these settings yet. How do I know where it's good? My bias were g-215 r-134 b-134. Green seemed way hi...
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john t




Joined: 02 Feb 2015
Posts: 8



PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dam, my gains were up around 200ish on all. I put everything Bach down at 128 and I will start there. So far on 1080i it's looking better. My contrast is up about 70 and 50 on the brightness.
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john t




Joined: 02 Feb 2015
Posts: 8



PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dam, my gains were up around 200ish on all. I put everything Bach down at 128 and I will start there. So far on 1080i it's looking better. My contrast is up about 80 and 50 on the brightness. It's starting to look right now. I didn't realize those settings were so far off.
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stridsvognen
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PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A good start point is to put up a low level test pattern, like the 5% window from the HD basic disc.

Look into the tubes and set all 3 to a level where you can see the bars on the side, but dont elevate black around it.
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CIR Engineering




Joined: 25 Aug 2008
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PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2015 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

john t wrote:
Honestly I've gotten some amazing results out of my Sony 1031 I put new tubes in and my 1231 as well. I guess I just gotta tweak. I'm actually working with the set now. Adjust the gains and bias. I had not touched these settings yet. How do I know where it's good? My bias were g-215 r-134 b-134. Green seemed way hi...

I think you should put the bias and gain back to where they were originally and start there. Someone has calibrated this projector at some point in time because on the G90 the Gain default for green is MAX (256). No way to know if the projector was well calibrated or not, but someone has changed the settings from default and lowering the green gain is the first place to start.

The gains work pretty much like a contrast setting for each tube on the G90. If you lower the gain on a G90 and also lower the default contrast setting of 80 than you will NOT get much pop at all because your white level will be too low. Put your bias and gain back to where they were when you started, make sure you have 6500K selected as your gray value, and then return your contrast and brightness to 80/50 respectively.

After that, go into the service menu and turn on AKB and let the projector run for at least 20 minutes. If AKB is already turned on than that is fine and you may skip this step.

After that, take a look and see how the pop is.

Next DIY measure would be to do as Kurt suggests and look right into the tubes to set a preliminary bias. The bias settings on the G90 are offsets to the G2 values. The G2 values are automatically calibrated when you turn on AKB. What you then should do is leave brightness at 50 and increase your bias settings until you reach a good black level and also have a good gray scale at the lower IRE levels (low light levels).

To get a really good gray scale you need at least a color reference, but a colorimeter would be better. I used to have a DIY guide to build a color reference out of an old VHS tape, a gray card, and a 6500k florescent flashlight. It was on The HomeTheaterSpot and I just discovered that that forum has been shut down. Frankly, at this point colorimeters have gotten better and cheaper so you could probably buy a used colorimeter to start that costs less than the parts for the color comparer.

craigr

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