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Clarence's new HT built in 2 weeks for Super Bowl
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ecrabb
Forum Moderator


Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 4:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Spanky Ham wrote:
I think I would wait on a good deal on a RS-46. I think the newer bulb would give more peace of mind and the price delta shouldn't be that great. IIRC Kris Deering said that out of the box the new JVCs are close to correct and a touch up calibration is only needed to bring it perfect.

Good luck with that. I don't even see many RS45's for sale for what I'd pay, let alone an RS46. In fact, I'm not sure I've seen a single one in the last six months in the price range I'd pay for a used one. RS45's are definitely more plentiful.

Spanky Ham wrote:
Be honest, did you discuss it with your wife about pulling the trigger? I did almost call you and tell you to buy it before I did. Wink

Nope. I was definitely one of the watchers, but it was to see how quickly it went. Not spending any money at the moment. We're fine, but there will be no large purchases like projectors. It would be especially stupid since I'd have no place to even use it.

SC
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greg_mitch



Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 5321



PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 3:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great job and very motivating. I like how you set a timeline and knocked it out. How did you finish the upper portion of your walls? Is that just paint brush strokes or sponge?

Do you care to share your budget? Just curious.

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My HT Build Thread - The Watercrest
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Clarence



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 3609
Location: Northern Virginia


PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 4:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

greg_mitch wrote:
Great job and very motivating. I like how you set a timeline and knocked it out. How did you finish the upper portion of your walls? Is that just paint brush strokes or sponge?


The paint was rollered on as normal with a primer coat. For the second coat, I use the roller and then while it's wet, use a brush and do random X's. Works best if you do random shapes with the roller, like a 5' oval. Then use the brush, doesn't need to have much paint... the paint comes from the roller. We learned this with Ralph Lauren "Suede" paint several years ago and liked the effect. It's also great for hiding tape seams in the drywall and hides the roller marks. Plus it helps diffuse any reflections from the projector screen. Also makes it easy to touch up spots on the wall... I had several from installing the chair rail, switches, linacoustic panels, etc.

greg_mitch wrote:
Do you care to share your budget? Just curious.


Budget was very reasonable:
lumber (framing, riser, rack, screen, linacoustic panels)... $400
electrical (12 lights, 12 outlets, switches, romex, breakers, etc)... $200
permits... $130
insulation... $300
hvac ducts and registers... $100
9' OSB and 5/8" fire-rated drywall, delivered... $800
(4) Polk in-ceiling surrounds... $170
carpet... $300
paint and mud... $100
beadboard, baseboards, casing, crown moulding, chair rail... $800
screen... $250
black fabric for screen surround... $60
linacoustic (panels and behind screen)... $150 (but still have half the roll)

So about $3800 for construction materials. I already had a lot of stuff like the in-wall speaker cable and the GG/QuietGluePro that I'd picked up as surplus from other builds. I also have isolation clips, but decided not to use hat channel.

Matching set of 4 leather recliners and the 5 matching folding theater seats on the riser... $800
but then I got 4 electric leather recliners that I liked even better for $400 (total... they were best buy floor samples), so I'm selling the other 4 non-power recliners for $400... a wash cost-wise.
Add $50 for the black dye and top coat (this weekend's project).
Barstools and pub tables for back row... $500

Already had the receiver, LCR+(2) 15" subs, 3D blu-ray player.
Upgraded projector to JVC DLA-RS56... $2250
3D glasses and chief mount... $250.

So about $7k total. It actually came in below my informal estimate. I shoot sports on the side as a hobby. I usually buy new cameras and lenses with the proceeds, but I didn't buy any camera equipment this year, so I figured this would be a fun way to spend last year's profits.

My youngest son (16) was a big help. Several snow days, so I got that extra time from him too. My best friend was an electrician, so that was helpful. Plus he helped with drywall. FWIW, drywall was a lot easier screwing into OSB... no need to hunt for studs.

I'm thrilled with the layout, picture, sound quality, and sound containment. The AT screen and DIY carpet exceeded my expectations. My wife came up with the idea of the bead board on the lower half of the wall. At first I was skeptical and it was a LOT more work than I expected (cut the panels in half, 2+ coats of black paint on glossy white panels with a million tiny grooves, and the straight lines are very unforgiving for walls that aren't perfectly square), but I think it adds some character without being distracting... otherwise it would just look like a big black box. And it really does tie in nicely with the black bar and wine rack that I built last year.
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greg_mitch



Joined: 03 May 2006
Posts: 5321



PostLink    Posted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great detailed reply! I guess I missed the OSB portion of your install, can only barely see it in some pictures. What thickness?

I hadn't heard of that before, but I would imagine it might have great mass for the green glue and other layer of drywall and would definitely make it easier in the future to hang anything including the drywall.

Did you come up with that yourself or is it on other home theater builds?

BTW - what did you think of the new Canon offerings announced today? I couldn't recall if you were in the Canon or Nikon or other camp.

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ecrabb
Forum Moderator


Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greg,

First layer of OSB and second layer of drywall isn't an uncommon approach. I've seen it before on AVS. As Clarence mentioned and you picked up on, it makes it very easy to hang the second layer of drywall and/or anything else you want to hang later. The downsides are that OSB is slightly more expensive, doesn't offer as much mass as same-sized drywall, and much less convenient to cut and hang. Because of that, most of the pros on AVS just recommend two layers of 5/8" drywall.

Personally, I'm still trying to decide what to do and how far to go with sound isolation. The pros and hard-core DIYers that follow them go a little overboard IMHO. I want some isolation, but I don't want to lose like 5-6 inches of my room to do it (not to mention all the extra expense and trouble). I'll probably end up doing something similar to my old room, but with clips and channel on the ceiling to decouple it from the tiled kitchen floor above.

Clarence is a Canon guy. I'll be interested to hear what he thinks, too. One thing I can't understand is why they'd release new flagship cameras with 50MP sensors, and not be able to capture 4K. There's no way in hell I'd buy a body at this point that won't capture 4K. I have a couple thousand dollars invested in lenses - I want to start shooting 4K. The only thing I can think of is they don't want to compete with their cinema division. They went and did what Sony did and now have divisions competing against each other. Wink

One reason I like Nikon - no internal politics. But, then they're usually slower with the updates anyway. Grr..

SC
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Spanky Ham



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 5634
Location: Comedy Central


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 12:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Acetone the crap out of the seat before you refinish them. Actually a 50/50 mix of regular alcohol and acetone would be better.
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Clarence



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 3609
Location: Northern Virginia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spanky Ham wrote:
Acetone the crap out of the seat before you refinish them. Actually a 50/50 mix of regular alcohol and acetone would be better.


I used Fiebings Deglazer then Fiebings Dye Prep. Then I used Fiebings Black Professional Oil Dye, which is supposed to be better (blacker and more permanent) than their regular alcohol based dye.

If it matters, the chairs were never used, so they didn't have any grime or wear. Just gloss from the original finish. I was surprised how much color came off with the deglazer. Turned a white towel to red.

I had a 4 oz bottle of the black dye and it only did 2 chairs. But they look great. I'll post a pic later.

I did a solid base coat with the wool dauber. Then one tip I read was to mix the dye in leather conditioner and rub it in... the dye gets pulled in deep when the conditioner gets absorbed. And the dye dries slower and gives you more time to buff in a nice, smooth, even coat. The 2nd coat looks 10x better than the first.

I ordered more to finish the rest. I'm very happy with it.

I just can't figure out what will be the best top coat. I think the black acrylic resolene will be too glossy. But it's supposed to prevent any dye from rubbing off. Recommendations?


Last edited by Clarence on Sat Feb 07, 2015 2:30 am; edited 1 time in total
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Clarence



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 3609
Location: Northern Virginia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 1:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

greg_mitch wrote:
Great detailed reply! I guess I missed the OSB portion of your install, can only barely see it in some pictures. What thickness?

I hadn't heard of that before, but I would imagine it might have great mass for the green glue and other layer of drywall and would definitely make it easier in the future to hang anything including the drywall.

Did you come up with that yourself or is it on other home theater builds?

BTW - what did you think of the new Canon offerings announced today? I couldn't recall if you were in the Canon or Nikon or other camp.


OSB is popular at AVS. Not as popular as 2nd layer of drywall, because OSB has less mass. But the ability to screw into anywhere on your wall is the biggest advantage. OSB was about the same cost as drywall.

I got 1/2" thick OSB, because that's the only thickness Lowe's had in stock as 9' sheets. Since I have 9' ceilings, that was a LOT more convenient than 8' sheets. You can tell in the picture that I had to add a 1' section of drywall at the bottom of every 8' panel of sheetrock. But since I knew it was going to be covered by bead board, I wasn't too worried about the tape and mud.

If I had more time, I would've ordered from a building supply place near here that stocks 9' sheets of drywall. Lowe's had 12' (but not the 5/8"), and my wife boycotted that because I used it to finish a guest room and it was a huge hassle to handle.

My son just told me about the new Canon 5DS and 5DS R. I guess that's what I'll get with next season's photo earnings.
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Clarence



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 3609
Location: Northern Virginia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 3:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clarence wrote:
I had a 4 oz bottle of the black dye and it only did 2 chairs. I'll post a pic later.


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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 23711
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gorgeous! Can I ship you my seats out of my BMW? LOL!

Great job, Clarence!
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Clarence



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 3609
Location: Northern Virginia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 3:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecrabb wrote:
I'm still trying to decide what to do and how far to go with sound isolation. The pros and hard-core DIYers that follow them go a little overboard IMHO. I want some isolation, but I don't want to lose like 5-6 inches of my room to do it (not to mention all the extra expense and trouble). I'll probably end up doing something similar to my old room, but with clips and channel on the ceiling to decouple it from the tiled kitchen floor above.


Definitely do double layer. FWIW, I'm glad I did OSB+5/8DW instead of DD. I'm very satisfied with noise containment, so I don't think the extra mass would make a huge difference. I might change my mind after I build my Tuba HT LP though.

I didn't do anything with the door, either. I had a solid core in my last HT. No seals, though. This HT has a big hole in the wall for my rack, so I figured sealing a heavier door right next to it wouldn't do much. I did caulked backer boxes for the surrounds though. And I did pink insulation in every joist and interior stud, not just exterior walls as required by code.

I have a box of clips (50) if you want a good deal... Pliteq GenieClips... the good ones with rubber. Wish you were closer, I have half a roll of Linacoustic and found another case (12 large caulk tubes) of GG that I didn't use. But it's expensive to ship.
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Clarence



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 3609
Location: Northern Virginia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Curt Palme wrote:
Gorgeous! Can I ship you my seats out of my BMW? LOL!

Great job, Clarence!


Thanks. I was thinking the same thing as I was doing these 2 seats... I wouldn't be scared now to try dyeing leather car seats. I'd remove them though. And would probably use my air compressor and sprayer.

I was originally going to disassemble these seats to dye them, but it took my son and I several hours to bolt them together and get the tension springs just right on each one. And it's too cold and windy to spray outside anyways. And I'm sick of cleaning out my sprayer. My hands are still chapped with bleeding split calluses... not used to so many weeks of real work. Drywall dust and mud and paint really dried out my skin.
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jask



Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 8862
Location: kamloops BC


PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 3:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice Clarence, I am going to steal the USB marquee idea! I probably missed it but what did you use for your screen?
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Clarence



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 3609
Location: Northern Virginia


PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jask wrote:
I probably missed it but what did you use for your screen?


Carl's SheerWeave, Projector Screen Material, Acoustically Transparent, White, Gain 1.0
http://www.carlofet.com/sheerweave-projector-screen-material.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDOBCKQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00JDOBCKQ&linkCode=as2&tag=curtpalmecrtp-20&linkId=KHMHMFBM4MDXROYG
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HogPilot



Joined: 21 Jan 2010
Posts: 2383


TV/Projector: Vizio P702ui-B3, Pioneer Elite Pro-151FD & 111FD


PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clarence wrote:
jask wrote:
I probably missed it but what did you use for your screen?


Carl's SheerWeave, Projector Screen Material, Acoustically Transparent, White, Gain 1.0
http://www.carlofet.com/sheerweave-projector-screen-material.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JDOBCKQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00JDOBCKQ&linkCode=as2&tag=curtpalmecrtp-20&linkId=KHMHMFBM4MDXROYG


Is that his branding for Phiffer SheerWeave4500?

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ecrabb wrote:
Curt Palme wrote:
Interesting, Mac isn't returning my emails. Go figure.

He's mad at us for making Hog a moderator. He took his ball and went home.

SC
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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2643
Location: Fond du Lac, WI


PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clarence you did an amazing job on those seats, very pro work Thumbs Up
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Clarence



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 3609
Location: Northern Virginia


PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HogPilot wrote:
Is that his branding for Phiffer SheerWeave4500?
I have no idea. I have samples of the first 2 versions of SMX from several years ago when Cliff built his AT. I think 95% of this AT material comes from the same awning sources.

Works good, IMO. Nicely packed; rolled in a 6' tube; no wrinkles or folds. Tight weave, not visible to me from a few feet. Easy to work with (holds its own shape, doesn't need to be stretched on a frame, just pulled taut and stapled), durable. Looks and sounds even better than I expected.
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Spanky Ham



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 5634
Location: Comedy Central


PostLink    Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clarence wrote:
Spanky Ham wrote:
Acetone the crap out of the seat before you refinish them. Actually a 50/50 mix of regular alcohol and acetone would be better.


I used Fiebings Deglazer then Fiebings Dye Prep. Then I used Fiebings Black Professional Oil Dye, which is supposed to be better (blacker and more permanent) than their regular alcohol based dye.

If it matters, the chairs were never used, so they didn't have any grime or wear. Just gloss from the original finish. I was surprised how much color came off with the deglazer. Turned a white towel to red.

I had a 4 oz bottle of the black dye and it only did 2 chairs. But they look great. I'll post a pic later.

I did a solid base coat with the wool dauber. Then one tip I read was to mix the dye in leather conditioner and rub it in... the dye gets pulled in deep when the conditioner gets absorbed. And the dye dries slower and gives you more time to buff in a nice, smooth, even coat. The 2nd coat looks 10x better than the first.

I ordered more to finish the rest. I'm very happy with it.

I just can't figure out what will be the best top coat. I think the black acrylic resolene will be too glossy. But it's supposed to prevent any dye from rubbing off. Recommendations?


To be honest, I have never really messed with Fiebings outside of the military. Most of their products are made for boots, garments, saddles and the hobby trade. Not sure how the Pro Oil Dye will hold up, but I guess you won't be using the seats on a daily basis.

Looking way to much at Fiebings website, my guess is that you should have went with the Acrylic Dye and followed with Resolene or Leather Sheen. Not sure how either of those two water based top coats will interact with the alcohol based Dye.




Clarence wrote:
Curt Palme wrote:
Gorgeous! Can I ship you my seats out of my BMW? LOL!

Great job, Clarence!


Thanks. I was thinking the same thing as I was doing these 2 seats... I wouldn't be scared now to try dyeing leather car seats. I'd remove them though. And would probably use my air compressor and sprayer.

I was originally going to disassemble these seats to dye them, but it took my son and I several hours to bolt them together and get the tension springs just right on each one. And it's too cold and windy to spray outside anyways. And I'm sick of cleaning out my sprayer. My hands are still chapped with bleeding split calluses... not used to so many weeks of real work. Drywall dust and mud and paint really dried out my skin.


I wouldn't try this on car seats.
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HogPilot



Joined: 21 Jan 2010
Posts: 2383


TV/Projector: Vizio P702ui-B3, Pioneer Elite Pro-151FD & 111FD


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clarence wrote:
HogPilot wrote:
Is that his branding for Phiffer SheerWeave4500?
I have no idea. I have samples of the first 2 versions of SMX from several years ago when Cliff built his AT. I think 95% of this AT material comes from the same awning sources.

Works good, IMO. Nicely packed; rolled in a 6' tube; no wrinkles or folds. Tight weave, not visible to me from a few feet. Easy to work with (holds its own shape, doesn't need to be stretched on a frame, just pulled taut and stapled), durable. Looks and sounds even better than I expected.


I took a closer look at the weave on my computer - that's definitely Phifer SheerWeave 4500, which is what I used for my first AT screen as well. It's primarily sold as a light control material. I loved the brightness and rigidity of the fabric, it was easy to work with on my home made frame. The only problems I had were some moire (even with the max fabric height I wasn't able to gen enough of an angle on it for my screen size), and occasionally I could see the weave pattern (only when there were very bright, homogenous blocks of color in an image). But for the money it's a great AT material if implemented correctly, and it sounds like you're happy with it.

If I remember correctly, the 4500 weave pattern is what Ruben used - but custom ordered in "chalk" color (offered on other weaves such as the 4800) - for his first generation SmX material when he left the DIY realm and started his company. I don't know what material he moved to after. At their peak SmX AT masking screens were some of the best products out there. It sounded like things went pretty badly at the end too...taking money for orders that he never fulfilled, and eventually falling off of the grid all together all because of his divorce. Too bad.

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ecrabb wrote:
Curt Palme wrote:
Interesting, Mac isn't returning my emails. Go figure.

He's mad at us for making Hog a moderator. He took his ball and went home.

SC
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Spanky Ham



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 5634
Location: Comedy Central


PostLink    Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2015 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was never a big fan of the Sheerweave and had a couple of battles with Ruben on AVS about his DIY business. I remember Cedia '09 going to his booth with Darinp and asking Cineramax if there was going to be an issue. We met, joked about the threads and buried the hatchet. The next year Ruben introduced a new material that had no texture. There was a video of me going on about how great the screen was. I guess not to long after he started having problems. At Cedia '11, he wasn't there and Seymour had his 4k material which is equally great. I have never asked Cris, but I have been curious if it was the same material.
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