CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

ccole23 · Joined: 16 Dec 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Washougal

Hi everyone I'm hoping you guys can help me troubleshoot my issue. My unit powers up crackles the back of the tubes glow but no light from the crt. I sent all of my boards into curt but they all checked out ok. Any ideas on what this might be and how to fix it would be much appreciated.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:38 am Post subject:

To add (correct me if I'm wrong).. the set was working fine before he changed the tubes which he got from me, those new old stock sets.

According to him, he has HV crackle, and the heaters glow. I've asked if somehow the CLM glitched the brightness and contrast to 0, but no, and apparently all video wires and G2 connections are solid.

If a tube had imploded/cracked, you'd get no HV crackle or filament glow, so that eliminates the tubes. Since he has HV, the deflection yoke is connected properly.

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

High voltage could be coming up and then going right off due to an error. I would check for bent pins on any of the 3 tubes.

ccole23 · Joined: 16 Dec 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Washougal

That is correct the only other thing was even after I installed the tubes it all worked except the convergence wouldn't adjust so I tried switching the red and blue convergence wires onto the green and no change I hooked it all back up turned it on no picture

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 2:52 am Post subject:

I haven't seen HV shut down on a Marquee without it lighting the tubes first, but try this.. CAREFULLY!

take one of the HV leads from the tubes, untwist it from the HV splitter, and pull it back about 1/4" or so. Make sure the set is off of course when you do this!!!

turn the set back on with the one lead partway out, and if the HV is constantly there, you'll hear a small popping sound coming from the HV splitter as the HV arcs to the tube lead. If it does this for more than 10 seconds, then you have constant HV. If it pops once, and stops, then the HV is shutting down.

I only do this rarely when I don't want to pull out my HV probe, and I'm assuming you don't have an HV probe..

ccole23 · Joined: 16 Dec 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Washougal

Ok I untwisted one and tried a second one no popping at all

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 3:00 am Post subject:

OK, you have no HV. That changes things.. Smile

BAd H board, bad HV supply, bad rear heat sink PC board?

Try turning the set off and on twice in a row. Do any red error lights come on on the CLM?

ccole23 · Joined: 16 Dec 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Washougal

Ok twice in a row no error lights

ccole23 · Joined: 16 Dec 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Washougal

I sent in the boards and they checked good ? Bad hv supply or splitter?

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 3:51 am Post subject:

Definitely not a bad splitter, but had HVPS.. maybe.

ccole23 · Joined: 16 Dec 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Washougal

Is there a way to test it

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 4:33 am Post subject:

Sadly no, replacement only.

ccole23 · Joined: 16 Dec 2014 Posts: 7 Location: Washougal

Is there a way to tell if it's bad ? Do you want me to send your clm board back mine is working I think