CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[thewolfman]

Register to remove this ad. It's free!

[GREG1292]

got 4 now and shared the link we are taking it viral status.

[thewolfman]

I appreciate it, thanks.

[napos]

You have 5 now!!!

[thewolfman]

Do I love JAWS or what. I have got to get my receiver in proper order and see it again in 7.1.


Jaws - Blu-Ray - Official® Trailer HD 1080p

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEy-hidLJFU


JAWS - Original trailer HD

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1fu_sA7XhE


JAWS - Blu-Ray Restoration Documentary 8:27 min

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lcn06rKJn4s

[thewolfman]

I'm tempted to cut off the clamps in the front on Frankenyokes and move them further forward. I think the image could get a little bit sharper doing that.

I have tested before, what happens when moving them backwards and forwards, and it's plain obvious they should be as far forward they can because the center upper and lower grid pattern lines gets thinner doing that. Right at the top and bottom they tighten up and almost positive they could get tighter still. Maybe just pipe-dream of mine..

I actually regretted putting the chassis back together last week because I wanted to have another look at them just now. But pretty certain there is room to move them forward by like >10 mm. Not much, but tempting all the same.

If I remember correctly, there's a clamp on the back but also some protruding plastic on the front that I want to remove. Doing that I would have to tape around the tube neck with fibreglass tape and then sort of snug the Franks back on again. There are other ways to but that one should be the easiest. But then again, why mess with something that already works..

Anyway, to easy my itch I made the smallest Thomson coils that I could make. Inc. magnets, I got them down from 11,5 cm to only 8,5 cm. With silicon I could make them even smaller by another 4mm. They are kinda cute now.

But.. the coil itself hasn't moved further forward it's just the housing that has shrunken. However, the magnet behind it has moved forward, very much so, and I wonder what that will do for the image. Maybe a test on an old tube some day.


Btw, the magnet would be glued/siliconed onto the coil plate that I flattened out.

[redfox001]

Nice! I have a set FY comming just to see for myself and they are not that expensive for an experiment. Further forward yes I read that too.

[thewolfman]

[redfox001]

[thewolfman]

Mine are also 1292s that I bought from Canada, but before posting this, I looked at them again on the Interweb and some pictures seems to not have the protruding plastic at the front as I have (?) which in that case makes them useless to make smaller.

Unless of course they too have much hollow insides as the Thomson's.. if so, then there is much to be made there too. I never opened mine up.. mostly because there is silicon on them. But will definitely look into it more next time the chassis is off.

[Nashou66]

Why did you cut them down? There is a reason they have that open space. It is so you can move the coil around in different directions to help center the raster mechanical on the tube face. This helps minimize how much electronic correction you need, therefore putting less strain on the electronics and reducing heat on the boards.

Nashou

[Nashou66]

[thewolfman]

[redfox001]

I found it encouraging to read that a trustable person said in the FY thread that the thomson deflection yoke has better astig in the corners than the barco/sony deflection yokes because of the way it is wound. So they should need less astig correction.

Another thing is you seem to have the 4-pole astig rings. The marquee has 6-pole available the barco does not go beyond 4-pole. You only need them if you have triangular spots. On the 6-pole I see three turning knobs.

To sum it up. The marquee has better static astig from the rings till the deflection it seems.

[redfox001]

One question. Where the Barco 909 focus yokes ever tested? In Mike's thread he seems to end with 909 focus and thomson convergence/deflection and the 909 astig rings.

I can test these combinations in the near future if not done allready.

[thewolfman]

[redfox001]

Ok. But it becomes clearer to me how to position the focus yoke. With the barco the electronic focus was set on 58 and than the sweetspot was found. That way the focus on the upper/lower zones was 20 or so and the static area was somewhere around the center. Guess this means that with the wires disconnected the yoke should be a little underfocussed?

[thewolfman]

I don't know how it will look with the wires disconnected, but everything is set to 50 before doing anything.

But I'll tell you one thing.. I always struggle to fill the screen with porches and stuff and looking at how my RGB-focus looks like I wonder if the pj is to far forward.

RGB-focus is - top and bottom only, about 7.. sides are at 100. Centre is around 21.

I'm lucky that right side is very good with 100 and even slightly less.. but left side is the weaker one. Also at 100 but could have used like 105-110 to make it silly sharp. That makes me wonder..

1. Do I have the pj to far forward?

2. Do I have the pj absolutely dead straight forward? Would that matter?

Lensflap is as good as it gets so I know it's not that. But I wonder if the numbers will go down a bit if I moved the pj further backwards by like 10-20 cm.

[Nashou66]

[redfox001]

Ok thanks. I do not have to shift these thomson coils.

But in Wolfman's case would it be an idea to set the electronic focus at 40 and find the sweatspot so that the correction that is now beyond 100 will be beyond 90 or so?