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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
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 Link Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 12:50 pm Post subject: |
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I am certainly interested in pictures of your fan setup. Do you have a thermometer to measure before and after the mods on many places? I am guessing that Marquee put the fans in a way that they help eachother, easy to make them counteract eachother on some places?
I wonder what colours the ultra will end up with 
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden
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| Link Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:14 pm Post subject: |
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| redfox001 wrote: | I am certainly interested in pictures of your fan setup. Do you have a thermometer to measure before and after the mods on many places? I am guessing that Marquee put the fans in a way that they help eachother, easy to make them counteract eachother on some places?
I wonder what colours the ultra will end up with |
If you like to incorporate more fans yourself I have a link for you with a great deal on 4 Silent Wings 2 fans + Lamptron fc5 v2..
http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog/Silent-PC/Luefter-Controller:::33_110.html
I almost went for it myself, but ultimately, I went for fewer fans (to start off with) in order to get the better off version on Lamptron.
The V3 has both voltage + temp showing at the same time.. V2 leaves you with a choice to show one or the other. Not only that, you have to remove the controller and move jumpers on the back of it to change colours and the preferred digits on the front. V3 covers all that, with a flick of a button, and also showing all the numbers needed anyway. Expensive though.
No, I have not got the digital temperature needed to do this, I'm all tapped out, so that will come later as I'm paying off the green tube also.
You could test and see for yourself with pasting a simple paper on certain areas to measure the "lift" it gets from different voltages and different fans.
If more fans, but less voltage, gets the paper to raise higher you should be good to go. I will do this myself, and even post the results from it, unless of course I get a digital thermometer on Ebay for like 10$.
And also; my neck boards also got damaged, they work, but show signs from melted silicon dripping, witch laves me to believe that 12 volts may not be enough so that's why I'm getting 120mm fans for them too.
I think your right about fans helping each other out, but I really put some thought into it, so that should be a no brainer when it's all done and dealt with.
The colour on the vinyl wrap is a close secret. Curt has seen it though and you could always try and bribe him to know. 
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
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Location: The Netherlands
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| Link Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:38 pm Post subject: |
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Aaaah I certainly will bribe Curt to know what colour you will be using 
What silicon did melt? The silicon that was holding the filament wires?
I just finished the red c-element and am now testing if there is a glycol leak. Next will be blue but I need a new bellow that is coming soon.
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011
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| Link Posted: Fri Nov 21, 2014 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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| redfox001 wrote: | Aaaah I certainly will bribe Curt to know what colour you will be using
What silicon did melt? The silicon that was holding the filament wires?
I just finished the red c-element and am now testing if there is a glycol leak. Next will be blue but I need a new bellow that is coming soon. |
I had to loosen some of the exterior to take the shot from green only.. I left the others alone as it to much work getting them off.
I don't know for sure, but I was surprised that it had melted and the only reason I even went there was to see if 4 pole magnets would change the last blurry bit on the left (witch it didn't) and that's when I discovered the melted silicon.
Of course, it could have looked like that all along, but to me at least, it looked strange, so that 's why I'm getting fans on the VNB too because I'm not going to jeopardise my modded VNB to go bad. I have waited so long for them to be finished so I'm not cutting any corners on this one.
Last edited by thewolfman on Sun Nov 15, 2015 11:29 am; edited 1 time in total
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011
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| Link Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 4:29 pm Post subject: |
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I have done one VNB with the fuax Dremel so far, and used the LVPS fans for those as the 120mm that arrived today had to low air pressure to motivate me putting them on. Very silent though, but to much work for so little air pressure.
The 92mm once fits perfectly and move plenty of air as well and not sure what to do with the once I bought. HDM as I planned or some other place. The Cougars gets to stay where they are though in the belly. But I'm going to take the edge off by a volt or so after more fans have been added.
The Lamptron lamptron fc5v3 is unbelievably cool to look at. Way cooler than seeing it on Youtube. But with use of Silent Wings 2 it wont be necessary to have it as they will always be run @ 12 Volts as they really are silent.
But for the Cougars it will become handy to have a fan controller like that. The blue, green and red colour really stands out and it's going to look very cool with it on and making it look a bit more modern. If I had some more parts here I could try and make it work again but for now it's just fans to work with.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
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| Link Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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You are indeed making the quietest CRT ever excluding a split pack!
I was wondering our neckboard come with little fans. they are loud? Where do these connectors of these little fans plug in?
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden
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| Link Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 6:17 pm Post subject: |
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| redfox001 wrote: | You are indeed making the quietest CRT ever excluding a split pack!
I was wondering our neckboard come with little fans. they are loud? Where do these connectors of these little fans plug in? |
Oh yes, one that I had made a scratching noise and I never even considered using them. But I think it's fun making these little tweaks as I'm not gifted with electronics like you guys are.
Oh..these fans are on the old external source but I tested it earlier today on the table with the Lamtron and the temp probes works like they should. Just plug and play. And seeing it glow like that is very nice and the temp numbers changing like that.
I really hope I will have it finished by January because the new Moome card sets me off again so I can't afford getting all the things I want sooner.
Any luck with your pj? Finished with your bellows and such?
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stridsvognen
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| Link Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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What is the purpose of all these fans.?
It looks like your trying to cool the neckboards from the board side..?
I can run 200Mhz or higher on my neckboards, so can Justin, and they are almost cold. With the standard belly fans.
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011
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Location: Sweden
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| Link Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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| stridsvognen wrote: | What is the purpose of all these fans.?
It looks like your trying to cool the neckboards from the board side..?
I can run 200Mhz or higher on my neckboards, so can Justin, and they are almost cold. With the standard belly fans. |
Like I said before.. I had another go at fixing my last blurry bit on the left and swapped to 4 pole magnets from six and noticed that one of the VNB had a droopy hot glue on it.. it really looked like it had melted from heat. Maybe from when I had it running at only 9 volts from time to time before. So I'm getting these fans to be safe.. if it gets to interfere with the image I'll just remove them as I have many more cages laying around.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2251
Location: The Netherlands
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| Link Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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| thewolfman wrote: | | redfox001 wrote: | You are indeed making the quietest CRT ever excluding a split pack!
I was wondering our neckboard come with little fans. they are loud? Where do these connectors of these little fans plug in? |
Oh yes, one that I had made a scratching noise and I never even considered using them. But I think it's fun making these little tweaks as I'm not gifted with electronics like you guys are.
Oh..these fans are on the old external source but I tested it earlier today on the table with the Lamtron and the temp probes works like they should. Just plug and play. And seeing it glow like that is very nice and the temp numbers changing like that.
I really hope I will have it finished by January because the new Moome card sets me off again so I can't afford getting all the things I want sooner.
Any luck with your pj? Finished with your bellows and such? |
My blue bellow is deep in a historic snowfall right now! Seems Nashou66 has to dig a road to the outside world first
But glycol is late too so no problem.
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thewolfman
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| Link Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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Oh I forgot.. I'm cooling it backwards from the heatsink and forward.. meaning I'm also getting fans for the heatsink itself but from the inside rather than cooling it from the backside like Barclay.
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stridsvognen
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| Link Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2014 6:59 pm Post subject: |
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| thewolfman wrote: | | stridsvognen wrote: | What is the purpose of all these fans.?
It looks like your trying to cool the neckboards from the board side..?
I can run 200Mhz or higher on my neckboards, so can Justin, and they are almost cold. With the standard belly fans. |
Like I said before.. I had another go at fixing my last blurry bit on the left and swapped to 4 pole magnets from six and noticed that one of the VNB had a droopy hot glue ito it.. it really looked like it had melted from heat. Maybe from when I had it running at only 9 volts from time to time before. So I'm getting these fans to be safe.. if it gets to interfere with the image I'll just remove them as I have many more cages laying around. |
Take that rear cover off, and put the lid on the plast covers.
And the glue on your pic is as it should be.
Looks like you want to invert the air flow around the neckboards, it dont make much sense to me, and i wonder if you make them run hotter that way.
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011
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Location: Sweden
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| Link Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 9:57 pm Post subject: |
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| stridsvognen wrote: | | thewolfman wrote: | | stridsvognen wrote: | What is the purpose of all these fans.?
It looks like your trying to cool the neckboards from the board side..?
I can run 200Mhz or higher on my neckboards, so can Justin, and they are almost cold. With the standard belly fans. |
Like I said before.. I had another go at fixing my last blurry bit on the left and swapped to 4 pole magnets from six and noticed that one of the VNB had a droopy hot glue ito it.. it really looked like it had melted from heat. Maybe from when I had it running at only 9 volts from time to time before. So I'm getting these fans to be safe.. if it gets to interfere with the image I'll just remove them as I have many more cages laying around. |
Take that rear cover off, and put the lid on the plast covers.
And the glue on your pic is as it should be.
Looks like you want to invert the air flow around the neckboards, it dont make much sense to me, and i wonder if you make them run hotter that way. |
I went back to my old thinking with cooling the heatsink from the inside and cooling the VNB from above with a 92mm fan at the same time.
Last edited by thewolfman on Thu Nov 27, 2014 9:02 am; edited 1 time in total
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stridsvognen
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| Link Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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I still dont get it..
Whats the temperature on the neckboards running standard setup.? And how do you effect the air flow for the FGM and HDM when changing the flow around the tube/ neckboards.
I would think that a few hours of operation has proven that the original design works quite well, or what problems did you discover.?
Also keep in mind that direct cooling on components can create a unwanted DC behavior.
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011
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Location: Sweden
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| Link Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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| stridsvognen wrote: | I still dont get it..
Whats the temperature on the neckboards running standard setup.? And how do you effect the air flow for the FGM and HDM when changing the flow around the tube/ neckboards.
I would think that a few hours of operation has proven that the original design works quite well, or what problems did you discover.?
Also keep in mind that direct cooling on components can create a unwanted DC behavior. |
Q. 1.. Don't know the original temp.
Q. 2.. That was because I wanted to cut out a hole on the FGM+HDM to have a Silent Wing 2 to fit in there. But Choosing them needs me to narrowing down the green plastic housing.. it wont fit otherwise. But, Noctua NF-A9x14 will, and without doing anything to the green plastic housing. Of course, it comes with a bill with lesser air pressure.
Q. 3.. I have only discovered melted hot glue at 9 volts on the VNB. Feel free to believe what you want but that was my instinct seeing it. I may have removed the evidence by taking off the droopy glue, or it still there on either red and or blue.
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stridsvognen
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| Link Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 10:57 pm Post subject: |
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| thewolfman wrote: | | stridsvognen wrote: | I still dont get it..
Whats the temperature on the neckboards running standard setup.? And how do you effect the air flow for the FGM and HDM when changing the flow around the tube/ neckboards.
I would think that a few hours of operation has proven that the original design works quite well, or what problems did you discover.?
Also keep in mind that direct cooling on components can create a unwanted DC behavior. |
Q. 1.. Don't know the original temp.
Q. 2.. That was because I wanted to cut out a hole on the FGM+HDM to have a Silent Wing 2 to fit in there. But Choosing them needs me to narrowing down the green plastic housing.. it wont fit otherwise. But, Noctua NF-A9x14 will, and without doing anything to the green plastic housing. Of course, it comes with a bill with lesser air pressure.
Q. 3.. I have only discovered melted hot glue at 9 volts on the VNB. Feel free to believe what you want but that was my instinct seeing it. I may have removed the evidence by taking off the droopy glue, or it still there on either red and or blue. |
As nash wrote, its hotmelt, it has to be there to hold the G2 wire. No need to worry, and if the board runs hot its not where the hotmelt is.
So what you say is that you are trying to cool the FGM and HDM horizontal, and not keep the original vertical air flow.?
And how will your tube/ chamber cooling look like.?
Are you going to put 11 fans to replace the 3 belly fans.?
My thinking here is that you have some sort of fan fetish, no problem in that, ill just ask a few critical questions, so that others dont run along in a hurry.
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011
Posts: 1311
Location: Sweden
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| Link Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2014 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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| stridsvognen wrote: | | thewolfman wrote: | | stridsvognen wrote: | I still dont get it..
Whats the temperature on the neckboards running standard setup.? And how do you effect the air flow for the FGM and HDM when changing the flow around the tube/ neckboards.
I would think that a few hours of operation has proven that the original design works quite well, or what problems did you discover.?
Also keep in mind that direct cooling on components can create a unwanted DC behavior. |
Q. 1.. Don't know the original temp.
Q. 2.. That was because I wanted to cut out a hole on the FGM+HDM to have a Silent Wing 2 to fit in there. But Choosing them needs me to narrowing down the green plastic housing.. it wont fit otherwise. But, Noctua NF-A9x14 will, and without doing anything to the green plastic housing. Of course, it comes with a bill with lesser air pressure.
Q. 3.. I have only discovered melted hot glue at 9 volts on the VNB. Feel free to believe what you want but that was my instinct seeing it. I may have removed the evidence by taking off the droopy glue, or it still there on either red and or blue. |
As nash wrote, its hotmelt, it has to be there to hold the G2 wire. No need to worry, and if the board runs hot its not where the hotmelt is.
So what you say is that you are trying to cool the FGM and HDM horizontal, and not keep the original vertical air flow.?
And how will your tube/ chamber cooling look like.?
Are you going to put 11 fans to replace the 3 belly fans.?
My thinking here is that you have some sort of fan fetish, no problem in that, ill just ask a few critical questions, so that others dont run along in a hurry. |
FGM + HDM vertically on them. Green housing gets in the way though so need to Dremel a bit, but I believe Noctua NF9X14PWM 92 x 14mm fans would fit in there without any modification at all.
The tube-chamber can only by narrowed by maybe 5 mm on each side before parts inside will get in the way but could be done in a number of ways so I don't need to explain.
I'm keeping the belly fans after all but lowering the voltage will make them a bit quieter.
2 92mm fans the LVPS. 1 on the for HVPS. 3 belly fans. 6 for the VNB inc heat sink. 1 for HDM + 1 for FGM. Fetish maybe, but I get to lower the voltage significantly to perhaps 10 volts even making it more silent and yet cooler at the same time. That's my goal. It's not a mayor investment as they can be had for less than 20$ each on some places.
I suppose the air flow direction will be the same only they get an extra boost.
Oh and I appropriate you mentioning that unwanted DC behaviour could happen and I really hope I wont break anything with this approach. I guess we'll have to wait and see what happens. And if it gets to darn cold I could remove some and put in the PC also.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
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Location: The Netherlands
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| Link Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 1:38 pm Post subject: |
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Ok if I understand you well you say you make the normal fans in the belly turn slower but compensate by putting suckers on the Horizontal and Focus modules. Also you blow and suck extra air through the neckboards.
I think the neckboards are overdone. The other idea might be something to try if I want the Marquee to be more silent. To be honest did you think of this yourself because if it works it might be something we should have thaught of long ago
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2251
Location: The Netherlands
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| Link Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2014 1:48 pm Post subject: |
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I once opened a JVC HD350 to find out how they where so silent and they have one fan before the bulb and one fan after the bulb. But to get them real silent they are in a plastic tunnel with a bend before the exit and the inside is clothed with sound absorbing material.
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