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BARCO-FULLHD: HDMI 1.4 Input Card
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fearn48




Joined: 07 May 2008
Posts: 26
Location: Reading, England


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2015 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Hi all,
I have now fitted my card and after some problems, I've now got a picture. You have to select input 3 on the projector (obvious enough), but what's not obvious or in the manual is any note about which input is which, or how you select them. Button 1 is the HDMI input closest to the card ejector (plastic cradle taken from the old card). Once you select it a beep is heard. You then have to press the display button on the remote. I've no idea why but you do. Take care that you don't hear two beeps when pressing the display button as this seems to switch it back off.

In hope this helps.

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fearn48




Joined: 07 May 2008
Posts: 26
Location: Reading, England


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 12:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi All,
I've been continuing with fitting this card. On the plus side, I can now run the brightness and contrast at a more reasonable level, but on the negative side getting a picture to start with is very long winded and the 3D has a green band at the top, more on that later.

I've discovered in the manual that the "display" button switches the sync polarity. However I don't know why this isn't saved in flash memory! You have to do it:
Every time you switch the projector on (annoying).
When switching barco inputs, due to the projector only powering the HDMI card up when you select port 3 (when port 5 is selected, the HDMI card had no power) (very annoying).
When you switch inputs on the HDMI card (due to it seeming to get some powered from the HDMI) (totally ridicules).

The new card seems to have a much better picture in terms of level when compared to my HDFURY3 connected to port 5. With the fury I had the brightness set to 21, and the contrast set to 71. With the MOOME card brightness is 41 and contrast is 51. The card seems to give out a much wider brightness range, so when you compensate, the controls which are much closer to the mid point.

The 3D has a green band at the top. I've tried 817x1920@72, 720x1280@96, 720x1280@123 and 550x1280@144. They all have the green band at the top.i know it's a sync issue, but I can't work out how to alert it any help would be much appreciated.

All the best
Fearn 48

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fearn48




Joined: 07 May 2008
Posts: 26
Location: Reading, England


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 12, 2015 12:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi All,
I've been continuing with fitting this card. On the plus side, I can now run the brightness and contrast at a more reasonable level, but on the negative side getting a picture to start with is very long winded and the 3D has a green band at the top, more on that later.

I've discovered in the manual that the "display" button switches the sync polarity. However I don't know why this isn't saved in flash memory! You have to do it:
Every time you switch the projector on (annoying).
When switching barco inputs, due to the projector only powering the HDMI card up when you select port 3 (when port 5 is selected, the HDMI card had no power) (very annoying).
When you switch inputs on the HDMI card (due to it seeming to get some powered from the HDMI) (totally ridicules).

The new card seems to have a much better picture in terms of level when compared to my HDFURY3 connected to port 5. With the fury I had the brightness set to 21, and the contrast set to 71. With the MOOME card brightness is 41 and contrast is 51. The card seems to give out a much wider brightness range, so when you compensate, the controls which are much closer to the mid point.

The 3D has a green band at the top. I've tried 817x1920@72, 720x1280@96, 720x1280@120 and 550x1280@144. They all have the green band at the top.i know it's a sync issue, but I can't work out how to aleter. The way I expect it to work doesn't move the green band, it just makes the pic go dim. Any help would be much appreciated.

All the best
Fearn 48

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konniekip




Joined: 15 Dec 2014
Posts: 7
Location: Amsterdam, The Netherlands


PostLink    Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 2:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fearn48 wrote:
Hi All,
I've been continuing with fitting this card. On the plus side, I can now run the brightness and contrast at a more reasonable level, but on the negative side getting a picture to start with is very long winded and the 3D has a green band at the top, more on that later.

I've discovered in the manual that the "display" button switches the sync polarity. However I don't know why this isn't saved in flash memory! You have to do it:
Every time you switch the projector on (annoying).
When switching barco inputs, due to the projector only powering the HDMI card up when you select port 3 (when port 5 is selected, the HDMI card had no power) (very annoying).
When you switch inputs on the HDMI card (due to it seeming to get some powered from the HDMI) (totally ridicules).

The new card seems to have a much better picture in terms of level when compared to my HDFURY3 connected to port 5. With the fury I had the brightness set to 21, and the contrast set to 71. With the MOOME card brightness is 41 and contrast is 51. The card seems to give out a much wider brightness range, so when you compensate, the controls which are much closer to the mid point.

The 3D has a green band at the top. I've tried 817x1920@72, 720x1280@96, 720x1280@123 and 550x1280@144. They all have the green band at the top.i know it's a sync issue, but I can't work out how to alert it any help would be much appreciated.

All the best
Fearn 48

how did you display 3D? With which glasses/emitter type?
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fearn48




Joined: 07 May 2008
Posts: 26
Location: Reading, England


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 2:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi konniekip,
I'm using the shutter glasses from curt's website that the original post for this card suggested (and linked to), I believe it was these:

http://www.curtpalme.com/RFGlasses.shtm

I've got a bit further with this issue now, as I emailed the Moome support address early last week. I can move the band up the picture by adding blanking to the bottom of the picture. This is a tip from a post in another thred. See below. But I run out of bandwidth on the Lumagen at 150 lines where it suggests about 500-550 lines. For this method to work I need the plus version of the residence xs for 544x1280@144. I haven't tried 720x1280@96, as I'm using the standard timings for that res, and I've run out of custom settings. Needing both 50 and 60 Hz settings chews through these 8 very quickly.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37314

I've also been told how to tweek the timings on the Moome card, but have been away since then, so have not tried this yet. I'll post the results once I've had a stab at it.

I'll also try and post a pic or two showing the issue. Pictures will be through the glasses as it's not visable without them. Probably due to not having the fast philosopher tubes, and the decay rate being to slow so the first image is still viable when the second is displayed.
Thanks for your help.
Peter



image.jpg
 Description:
Light part of the picture shows the issue.

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image.jpg
 Description:
The yellow and blue band is viable on light seens.

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 Filename:  image.jpg
 Filesize:  401.02 KB
 Downloaded:  731 Time(s)


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fearn48




Joined: 07 May 2008
Posts: 26
Location: Reading, England


PostLink    Posted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 3:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please see the pictures below. You'll notice that above the yellow area the picture is not 3D.


image.jpg
 Description:
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image.jpg



image.jpg
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And right

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winny




Joined: 09 Oct 2013
Posts: 401
Location: Sweden

TV/Projector: BD808s, BG1209/2


PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How does it work with non-1080p60 resolutions and framerates? I'm running 1080i at the moment but the softness at 1080p might be the analog signal chain and not the projector. Anyhow, 720p or 1080i might still be the best solution for me.

Any overscan/phase/h-shift issues?

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winny




Joined: 09 Oct 2013
Posts: 401
Location: Sweden

TV/Projector: BD808s, BG1209/2


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No one?
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Melifluonze wrote:
Digital is easy. This is torture, but far more interesting...
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redfox001




Joined: 16 Mar 2009
Posts: 2240
Location: The Netherlands


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Works perfect at every resolution I tried including 1080p@72.
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CIR Engineering




Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 4179
Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany

TV/Projector: JVC NX9 + Paladin DCR & Sony G90 : Lumagen Radiance Pro


PostLink    Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

fearn48 wrote:
Hi konniekip,
I'm using the shutter glasses from curt's website that the original post for this card suggested (and linked to), I believe it was these:

http://www.curtpalme.com/RFGlasses.shtm

I've got a bit further with this issue now, as I emailed the Moome support address early last week. I can move the band up the picture by adding blanking to the bottom of the picture. This is a tip from a post in another thred. See below. But I run out of bandwidth on the Lumagen at 150 lines where it suggests about 500-550 lines. For this method to work I need the plus version of the residence xs for 544x1280@144. I haven't tried 720x1280@96, as I'm using the standard timings for that res, and I've run out of custom settings. Needing both 50 and 60 Hz settings chews through these 8 very quickly.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37314

I've also been told how to tweek the timings on the Moome card, but have been away since then, so have not tried this yet. I'll post the results once I've had a stab at it.

I'll also try and post a pic or two showing the issue. Pictures will be through the glasses as it's not visable without them. Probably due to not having the fast philosopher tubes, and the decay rate being to slow so the first image is still viable when the second is displayed.
Thanks for your help.
Peter

Are you using a 3D output from the Lumagen to the glasses? If so you can just adjust the delay for the 3D glasses there.

craigr

_________________
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Authorized Dealer for Lumagen & just about everything worth buying Wink
www.CIR-Engineering.com - craigr@cir-engineering.com
Phone: 865-405-6892
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winny




Joined: 09 Oct 2013
Posts: 401
Location: Sweden

TV/Projector: BD808s, BG1209/2


PostLink    Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

redfox001 wrote:
Works perfect at every resolution I tried including 1080p@72.


Good news! Any H-shift/phase issues?

_________________
Melifluonze wrote:
Digital is easy. This is torture, but far more interesting...
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banditbiker




Joined: 20 Nov 2015
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Fri Nov 20, 2015 9:10 pm    Post subject: Not so happy. Reply with quote

Hello everyone,

I just installed my HDMI card in my BarcoGaphics 808s.

I ran into some problems:
*No picture without having to press the "DISPLAY" button on the remote
*No picture after changing resolution (have to press the "DISPLAY" button again)

It seems to have something to do with the polarity of the SYNC signals.
The projector won't display anything unless the polarity is correct. I believe the projector wants negative sync.
Why doesn't the card store this?

Will there be a software update to fix this behaviour?
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fearn48




Joined: 07 May 2008
Posts: 26
Location: Reading, England


PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CIR Engineering wrote:
fearn48 wrote:
Hi konniekip,
I'm using the shutter glasses from curt's website that the original post for this card suggested (and linked to), I believe it was these:

http://www.curtpalme.com/RFGlasses.shtm

I've got a bit further with this issue now, as I emailed the Moome support address early last week. I can move the band up the picture by adding blanking to the bottom of the picture. This is a tip from a post in another thred. See below. But I run out of bandwidth on the Lumagen at 150 lines where it suggests about 500-550 lines. For this method to work I need the plus version of the residence xs for 544x1280@144. I haven't tried 720x1280@96, as I'm using the standard timings for that res, and I've run out of custom settings. Needing both 50 and 60 Hz settings chews through these 8 very quickly.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37314

I've also been told how to tweek the timings on the Moome card, but have been away since then, so have not tried this yet. I'll post the results once I've had a stab at it.

I'll also try and post a pic or two showing the issue. Pictures will be through the glasses as it's not visable without them. Probably due to not having the fast philosopher tubes, and the decay rate being to slow so the first image is still viable when the second is displayed.
Thanks for your help.
Peter

Are you using a 3D output from the Lumagen to the glasses? If so you can just adjust the delay for the 3D glasses there.

craigr


Hi Craigr,
I wasn't using the Lumagen 3D output, I was using the one from the Moome card. I had to give up trying to fix it as I needed to make the house look sellable. So haven't done anything on this issue since March. I've now moved and won't have the projectors (I've collected a few more recently) working for some time. Thanks for your help and advice, I will get back to this at some point, but I'm thinking 3D should be shelved. The refresh rates need to be so much higher than for 2D and to add the blanking required to make up for not having a fast phosphor (as the banding wraps to the bottom before leaving the top) makes it worse. I might just get a cheap digital for 3D and leave the CRT for 2D.

Hi bandit biker,
I really hope there's a software fix for the continual "display" button pressing. It should have a jumper setting on the board.

How do you find the picture?

Thanks
Peter

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banditbiker




Joined: 20 Nov 2015
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Picture is awesome. Way better than with the 8 meter analogue cable I had...


In the schematics of the original input 3 card I see that there is sync polarity processing: whatever you put in, positive sync will come out. In my opinion the card should have this as well.
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moome




Joined: 01 Jun 2007
Posts: 495



PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

banditbiker wrote:
Picture is awesome. Way better than with the 8 meter analogue cable I had...


In the schematics of the original input 3 card I see that there is sync polarity processing: whatever you put in, positive sync will come out. In my opinion the card should have this as well.


hi,
BARCO-FHD has memory for sync polarity, can you check there is a tag, it is the FW version.


thanks
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banditbiker




Joined: 20 Nov 2015
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 21, 2015 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I already answered your email.
The sticker on the board says V102 or V10y, can be both...
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banditbiker




Joined: 20 Nov 2015
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Thu Nov 26, 2015 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok it seems I have firmware 1.02.
Current firmware is 1.03.
Moome promised to send me a new firmware chip.
Hope that solves the issues I have...
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banditbiker




Joined: 20 Nov 2015
Posts: 5



PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 04, 2015 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Today I got the new firmware chip. That solved the "pressing display button to get picture" issue.

But a new issue came up.
I can't adjust the vertical size enough to get a proper 16:9 picture...
Is there any way to adjust it beyond whats in the menu of the projector?
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whoopn




Joined: 08 Mar 2016
Posts: 34



PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 08, 2016 10:19 pm    Post subject: Silly question Reply with quote

Does this card automatically set the front porch and backporch settings as well as sync width and the like?

I'm sure I'm misunderstanding something but I did just pre-order one and I'm wondering what will be involved in the configuration of my Barco 808 after-the-fact.

Thanks!
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fearn48




Joined: 07 May 2008
Posts: 26
Location: Reading, England


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 2:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Silly question Reply with quote

whoopn wrote:
Does this card automatically set the front porch and backporch settings as well as sync width and the like?

I'm sure I'm misunderstanding something but I did just pre-order one and I'm wondering what will be involved in the configuration of my Barco 808 after-the-fact.

Thanks!


Hi whoopn,
Unfortunately I believe you'll still need the custom porch settings. The Moome card is not clever enough to add these in for the Barco issue of picture wrapping (scrolling edges). This is probably because each projector needs a different amount added depending on the projector generation.

When I had the Moome card fitted to my Runco DTV-1100 (Barco 1209s) I ran the same porch settings as I had before with the HDFury3 and Port 5. However my previous projector (Barco 1208/2 with HDfury 1 and 2) hardly needed any additional porch, to the point that I did not add it.

When I fitted the moome to my 1209s, I did not have much time to try the standard settings, as I was trying to get 3D working. I have now got a Cine Max projector which does not seem to need the extra porch settings, but I need to do some more testing.

So in short, you will probably need the same porch settings as you did before. I hope this helps.

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