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My new JVC RS56 digital projector
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CharlieB2



Joined: 08 May 2010
Posts: 12



PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:34 am    Post subject: JVC LCOS Reply with quote


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Kal,
Just read that great write-up on your new JVC RS56. I bought an open-box RS65 last fall, and agree totally with most of your comments. My projector is mounted on the ceiling where the old NEC was, and am using a Stewart screen 96" wide, similalr to your. I've done the pixel adjustment, and it does make a difference in color fringing when you get everything spot-on.
As you have noted, contrast, brightness, focus, resolution, noise---everything is really improved except absolute black level, which is a tad higher than the CRT.
The one thing I really miss is CRT's filling of the full 4x3 screen for old movies, as opposed to the letterboxed 4x3. I use a differnt zoom, shift, focus (memory 2), but it can only make the image a bit larger, and not full screen.

Funny, I actually like the THX mode, since it simplifies so many of the myriad choices in the setup menus. And I let the CMD stay on--doesn't bother me since we watch a lot of TV dramas and are used to video as opposed to film. Besides, there is nothing sacred about 24fps--it was the slowest speed that could be used before flicker became apparent--and having seen the new Hobbit in 48fps, I think it's an improvement.

Thanks so much for the many pictures---I wondered what it looked like inside, but didn't want to open it up if I didn't have to. Sort of wished I had waited for the RS66, but I got this at a great price at the time I wanted it, and the differences are relatively minor except for that great change in the lamp. Anyone know if the new lamp can be used in the old projector with some simple change that won't cancel the warranty?

Does any one know of a calibrator in the Los Angeles area---am wondering if a professional job would improve what I consider an excellent and satisfying picture.

Bidding adieu to the analogue era, with nostalgia.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 16076
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 4:23 pm    Post subject: Re: JVC LCOS Reply with quote

CharlieB2 wrote:
Anyone know if the new lamp can be used in the old projector with some simple change that won't cancel the warranty?

I would say that the new lamp cannot be used. The projector power supply is different, the lamp is different. I'm sure that JVC would have loved to reduce the number of lamps they have to offer so if the lamps used on last year's projector(s) could also use the new lamp they would have simply stopped offering the old lamp when the new came out.

Quote:
Does any one know of a calibrator in the Los Angeles area---am wondering if a professional job would improve what I consider an excellent and satisfying picture.

Have you considered a DIY approach? For about the same price as one pro calibration you can do it yourself which then leaves you the hardware to do other displays as well as the necessary tweak every 6-12 months as the bulb ages and/or you change equipment.

Our Display 3 PRO packages are on sale until January 15: http://www.curtpalme.com/ChromaPure_EyeOneDisplay3.shtm

It's what I'll be using myself to calibrate my RS56.

Kal

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RVonse



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 2508



PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal, how did you decide you are going to hang the JVC on the ceiling? Its so much smaller than my wide body Barco, I am wondering whether to mount it flush with the ceiling tile or whether I should just hang below. Or I can see a little more ceiling hieght doing it slightly above the tile but the cooling and keystone will be better hanging it lower and I still can't decide. The only thing obvious to me on the JVC bottom is to unscrew the plastic feet and use those screw holes for my new bracket, which I am planning just to build from scratch.

Have you bought your 3d glasses yet? I am wondering the best place to get that stuff, I notice on ebay they have some knockoffs for much cheaper than JVC but I am wondering if those really work.

How do you normally turn your JVC off? I have been using the standby button twice but was wondering if it is blasphamy just to control the power feed going to the projector? That is how I have been powering up and down the Barco but I am afraid those days of avoiding the projector remote might now be over with.

I can not believe how much cheaper the HDMI cables have come down from when I last paid for some short ones a few years ago! Just $12 for (2) 20' cables. I am looking forward to the simplicity of having a lot less boxes and converters in the video chain without the Bartco involved.
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ecrabb
Forum Moderator


Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RVonse wrote:
Kal, how did you decide you are going to hang the JVC on the ceiling? Its so much smaller than my wide body Barco, I am wondering whether to mount it flush with the ceiling tile or whether I should just hang below. Or I can see a little more ceiling hieght doing it slightly above the tile but the cooling and keystone will be better hanging it lower and I still can't decide. The only thing obvious to me on the JVC bottom is to unscrew the plastic feet and use those screw holes for my new bracket, which I am planning just to build from scratch.

I mounted mine flush to the ceiling, with a custom-made bracket, using the foot-screw holes exactly as you describe. I saw several commercial mounts, including the JVC used those same holes, so I knew it was good. A square piece of baltic birch, some metric hardware from the hardware store, and a couple of pieces of channel aluminum. I think total cost was probably about $20, and probably a couple of hours of my time. I can post a photo if you want.

RVonse wrote:
How do you normally turn your JVC off? I have been using the standby button twice but was wondering if it is blasphamy just to control the power feed going to the projector? That is how I have been powering up and down the Barco but I am afraid those days of avoiding the projector remote might now be over with.

I think it would be a very bad idea to power the projector off with the mains power, and could even damage the lamp, lamp housing, or other components, as the fans run a minute or two after power-down to cool the projector back down. Just get a good remote and power the whole system down with a single button.

SC
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RVonse



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 2508



PostLink    Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecrabb wrote:
I mounted mine flush to the ceiling, with a custom-made bracket, using the foot-screw holes exactly as you describe. I saw several commercial mounts, including the JVC used those same holes, so I knew it was good. A square piece of baltic birch, some metric hardware from the hardware store, and a couple of pieces of channel aluminum.
SC
My thanks go to you for your help too SC. Especially on the metric screws, I would never have thought of that though it makes perfect sense that this projector is not going to be done in the English system. Before seeing your post I had envisioned using threaded rod in the feet holes and then adapt to the brackets I already have in the rafters. I always had good luck with thread rod with my Barco for fine tuning the position of the projector. But I don't think finding metric thread rod is going to be something stocked at Lowes, so probably will have to go with another sort of design like you ended up with.

My son is coming over this weekend and he is pretty strong. With his help I think I can get the big Barco down which will be the biggest part of the job IMO. I'm hoping I won't have to do without my theater very long.
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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 16076
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RVonse wrote:
Kal, how did you decide you are going to hang the JVC on the ceiling?

See here: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=346279#346279

I really like it. Great flexibility in adjusting tilt/yaw/roll. You do it with a screwdriver so fine adjustments are easy.

Quote:
Its so much smaller than my wide body Barco, I am wondering whether to mount it flush with the ceiling tile or whether I should just hang below.

Hang it as low as you can stand to minimize lens shift to keep the image in the middle of the lens (where image quality is the best). In a perfect world you would install it 1/2 way up the screen but that's obviously too low. Do not use keystone at all. Never use keystone on a digital projector unless you absolutely need to, but you shouldn't need to. You install the projector level with the floor and use lens shift to shift the image down.

Quote:
Have you bought your 3d glasses yet?

Nope.

Quote:
How do you normally turn your JVC off? I have been using the standby button twice but was wondering if it is blasphamy just to control the power feed going to the projector?

Use the remote. NEVER CUT THE POWER ON ANY DIGITAL PROJECTOR WHILE IT IS RUNNING!! It needs to cool the bulb down and will run for a few minutes after you power it off. Not doing this will kill the bulb prematurely. Some people will install a UPS in case the power goes out while watching a movie so that they can shut down 'gracefully' but I didn't bother. The odds of the house power going off during the 60 seconds while the lamp cools down is astronomically small for me and I'd never recoup in 'bulb wear' what a good UPS would cost.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Tue Dec 20, 2016 4:05 am; edited 2 times in total
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RVonse



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 2508



PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecrabb wrote:

I mounted mine flush to the ceiling, with a custom-made bracket, using the foot-screw holes exactly as you describe. I saw several commercial mounts, including the JVC used those same holes, so I knew it was good. A square piece of baltic birch, some metric hardware from the hardware store, and a couple of pieces of channel aluminum. I think total cost was probably about $20, and probably a couple of hours of my time. I can post a photo if you want.

SC


Kal wrote:

See here: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=346279#346279

I really like it. Great flexibility in adjusting tilt/yaw/roll. You do it with a screwdriver so fine adjustments are easy.


After further investigation, those feet are held on by .8mm metric screws which fortunately is extremely close to #10-32 thread which is readily available where I live. If I put a #10 thread rod in the hole it "feels" exactly like the JVC foot screw.

But here is what bothers me. Is a .8 mm screw or a #10 thread rod really enough to hold this projector? And are both of you guys really getting by hanging your projector from those 4 little holes, correct? It just doesn't seem like enough safety factor to me. I know the JVC is not that heavy but such a small diameter screw just does not seem like it would hold it adequately. But maybe my problem is just the being used to the much bigger thread rod that holds my Barco.
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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RV,

The JVC manual is quite explicit that the (4) M5 screw holes are both for feet (table mounting) and for ceiling mounting. It also details the min/max length. It has to be long enough to engage the threads fully, and short enough not to protrude into the internals.

The projector is only 35 pounds, so we're only talking roughly 9 pounds per mounting point. I don't know how to calculate it (one of our engineers here probably could), but I'd guess that a single M5 screw would easily handle the weight of the projector all by itself, let alone a quarter of it. So, I'd guess the safety factor is in excess of 4, probably similar to what we were doing with the CRT's. I think mine was hanging on 1/4" IIRC, which was probably enough to hold my body weight if it was in a sling hanging on an eye hook.

I do know I wouldn't substitute imperial hardware for the correct metric hardware. "Extremely close" isn't good enough for me. I used a standard M5 black anodized sockethead (allen) capscrew along with the appropriate spacers and washers. They fit perfectly, and it is very secure. Unless you live in the middle of nowhere, any decent hardware store will have a good selection of M5 hardware. 15 minutes in the hardware aisle and I had all the screws, nuts, washers, and nylon spacers I needed. Took it home and had my projector mounted a few hours later. Total cost was probably <$10.

SC


Last edited by ecrabb on Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:41 am; edited 1 time in total
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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 25670
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecrabb wrote:
RV,

Took it him and mad my projector mounted a few hours later. Total cost was probably <$10.

SC


Him who and why were you so mad if it's so easy? Laughing

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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Damn auto-correct.

SC
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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 12:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RV, I don't have an 8-foot ceiling in my room, and my projector is right over my second-row aisle. The mounts all had either too much drop, were too expensive, or both. $300 just seems way out of line to me for a couple of cast parts, some stamped parts, and a black wrinkle finish. God bless them if they can get that... It just rubs me the wrong way.

Anyway, I wanted absolute max headroom, so I used 1" O.D. aluminum channel, and then built a "foot" for the projector out of Baltic birch. The projector mounts to the birch, then slides right into the channels I mounted flush with the ceiling, right where the CRT used to be.

I'm 6' 3", and I can now walk on the 6-inch riser, right under my projector, without ducking, and with room to spare. Winning!

Drawing attached.

SC



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kal
Forum Administrator


Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 16076
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecrabb wrote:
The projector is only 35 pounds, so we're only talking roughly 9 pounds per mounting point. I don't know how to calculate it (one of our engineers here probably could), but I'd guess that a single M5 screw would easily handle the weight of the projector all by itself, let alone a quarter of it.

Agreed.

Quote:
I do know I wouldn't substitute imperial hardware for the correct metric hardware.

I also wouldn't substitute. They're 10 cent bolts from Home Depot. I'd use the right ones.

Kal

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RVonse



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 2508



PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 2:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecrabb wrote:
RV, I don't have an 8-foot ceiling in my room, and my projector is right over my second-row aisle. The mounts all had either too much drop, were too expensive, or both. $300 just seems way out of line to me for a couple of cast parts, some stamped parts, and a black wrinkle finish. God bless them if they can get that... It just rubs me the wrong way.

Anyway, I wanted absolute max headroom, so I used 1" O.D. aluminum channel, and then built a "foot" for the projector out of Baltic birch. The projector mounts to the birch, then slides right into the channels I mounted flush with the ceiling, right where the CRT used to be.

I'm 6' 3", and I can now walk on the 6-inch riser, right under my projector, without ducking, and with room to spare. Winning!

Drawing attached.

SC
Given the choice between what you did and Kals mount, I prefer your way as well. Like you, I give the head height and astetic value more priority than my picture quality.

But what I still don't like (as compared to my Barco mount) is that you have no flexibility to make minor vertical adjustments if you so desire at a later time. Thats why I was going the direction of thread rods into the existing mounts that I already have in my rafters. Yes I do agree I can buy metric hardware at Lowes but coming up with a metric thread rod I don't think would be so easy. Maybe an auto supply house, I don't know. I guess I could weld metric bolts to standard thread rod though, but then I have to worry about whether I can trust my welding to hold.
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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 16076
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 2:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vertical adjustments are done via lens shift (which you have to use anyway).

I took the quick and easy (and more expensive) way out and bought the mount. I agree with SC that it seems silly expensive for what you get. A few things made me go this way: (a) a million other things on the go and not time to build, (b) I needed to drop down about 7" or so from the ceiling so the premade mount was perfect, (c) the mount will work with any other future projector I want - all you need to do is replace the one plate that fits between the mount and the projector (and if you stick with the same brand odds are future versions of JVC projectors may not even need a new plate).

Kal

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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
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Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 3:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RV,

Why not use a combo approach? Use your English threaded rod to hang an adapter plate like mine, then attach the projector to the plate with the correct hardware... Like mine. Best of both worlds. Problem solved.

SC
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RVonse



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 2508



PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 4:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecrabb wrote:
RV,

Why not use a combo approach? Use your English threaded rod to hang an adapter plate like mine, then attach the projector to the plate with the correct hardware... Like mine. Best of both worlds. Problem solved.

SC
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VideoGrabber



Joined: 09 Apr 2006
Posts: 933
Location: Michigan


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecrabb wrote:
Anyway, I wanted absolute max headroom...

Oh, well, in that case, here, here, here you go...


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AnalogRocks
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2013 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

VideoGrabber wrote:
ecrabb wrote:
Anyway, I wanted absolute max headroom...

Oh, well, in that case, here, here, here you go...



HaHa, Nice!!

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RVonse



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RVonse wrote:
ecrabb wrote:
RV,

Why not use a combo approach? Use your English threaded rod to hang an adapter plate like mine, then attach the projector to the plate with the correct hardware... Like mine. Best of both worlds. Problem solved.

SC
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This is what I ended up with:




And this is what it looks like now roughly in place on the ceiling;





It sure doesn't fill the void left by the Barco. After adjustments I hope to come to some kind of decision on how I am going to handle the suspended ceiling for best looks. I can go under it or recessed either option. With the Barco, half of the projector was recessed and it really did look pretty good. But with this one I'm thinking only an inch or 2 recessed, or maybe just level with the ceiling like yours is SC.

After some rough cable hookups, it is apparent to me now that the VGA cable from both of my htpc's have undesirable reflections. I had always blamed this on the Barco neck card black boxes which I thought were causing it but what I see now proves otherwise. If I connect a much shorter vga cable from my laptop the reflections dissapear. So I wonder if I should find better 20' vga cables or if I should try to utilize the dci output that both video cards have on them. Does anyone happen to know what would happen if I were to connect a dci to HDMI cable from my video card to one of the HDMI inputs on the projector? On the one hand I do see them advertised on ebay so they must work for some applications but how would the projector be smart enough to know its a computer instead of a blu ray input in order not to look for compliance handshaking? The only other route I can think of is to use the JVC composite inputs which have the option for RGB. And then convert the vga to RGB coax cables. But I tried doing that today with the laptop and for some reason did not work. Is there something other than using the standard vga pigtail that you would have to do in order to make this option work?
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VideoGrabber



Joined: 09 Apr 2006
Posts: 933
Location: Michigan


PostLink    Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

RVonse wrote:
It sure doesn't fill the void left by the Barco. After adjustments I hope to come to some kind of decision on how I am going to handle the suspended ceiling for best looks. I can go under it or recessed either option. With the Barco, half of the projector was recessed and it really did look pretty good. But with this one I'm thinking only an inch or 2 recessed, or maybe just level with the ceiling like yours is SC.

I'd recommend not recessing it at all. Reason being the air vents in the front will be partially blocked.

Quote:
After some rough cable hookups, it is apparent to me now that the VGA cable from both of my htpc's have undesirable reflections.

Not unusual.

Quote:
I had always blamed this on the Barco neck card black boxes which I thought were causing it but what I see now proves otherwise. If I connect a much shorter vga cable from my laptop the reflections dissapear. So I wonder if I should find better 20' vga cables

That will definitely work. I've used quality VGA cables at 50' without issues. One other quick option you could try would be to pick up a pair of ferrite chokes, and snap one on each end of your existing cable. That may be enough to damp the ringing.

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