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philips 47pfl7403d- won't turn on, is it what I think it is?
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Jakeklem




Joined: 18 Aug 2010
Posts: 45
PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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power board 2 results:

CN6:
1. 3.3v
2. 0
3. Use this for ground when testing 1 through 8.
6. 65mv
7. 65mv
8. 65mv
9. 11v
10. Use this for ground when testing 9 and 11
11. -11v

CN7:
1. 66mv
2. 66mv
3. Use this for ground when testing 1 and 2.
5. 0
6. 0.54v
7. 0.57v
8. Use this for ground when testing 5 through 7.

also, I verified that cn6 pin 2 has the voltage I posted with leds on. And the front power led does not flash at any point.
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Jakeklem




Joined: 18 Aug 2010
Posts: 45
PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
as you can see, it doesn't have the required 3.3v on cn6 pin 2. Would I be able to just put a jumper across from pin 1 and have it work? Or might that risk damage?
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Wow. I can't believe I missed that post. I know I've been busy but I thought I was keeping track here. I'll have to look at this tomorrow.
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Jakeklem wrote:
as you can see, it doesn't have the required 3.3v on cn6 pin 2. Would I be able to just put a jumper across from pin 1 and have it work? Or might that risk damage?


All you changed was the power supply and not the main?
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Jakeklem




Joined: 18 Aug 2010
Posts: 45
PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Haha no problem Mac. Yes that's correct, I only changed the power supply.
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
That's odd. Yes you can jump pins 1 and 2 on CN6 to see if it powers up.
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Jakeklem




Joined: 18 Aug 2010
Posts: 45
PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Yes, that's exactly what I thought too! It's as if that particular main and power supply are paired together and the main knows when it's a different power board. hahaha. I'll jump it and see what happens.
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Jakeklem




Joined: 18 Aug 2010
Posts: 45
PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Well I tried jumping pin 1 and pin 2 and got absolutely nothing.... not even a relay click. Built in circuit protection I suppose. Any ideas what to do next?
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 9:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Did you check voltages on those connectors with those pins jumped? That's what we are looking for.
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Jakeklem




Joined: 18 Aug 2010
Posts: 45
PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ya, sorry forgot to post em. With the jumper in place ithey were both at

pin 1 was 3.3v as expected and pin 2 was a little lower around 3.2v
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ha, I meant all the other pins on CN6 and CN7.
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Jakeklem




Joined: 18 Aug 2010
Posts: 45
PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Quote:
Ha, I meant all the other pins on CN6 and CN7.


haha I should have known Embarassed

CN6:
1. 3.3v
2. 3.29v
3. Use this for ground when testing 1 through 8.
6. 58mv
7. 0
8. 0
9. 156mv
10. Use this for ground when testing 9 and 11
11. 0

CN7:
1. 0
2. 59mv
3. Use this for ground when testing 1 and 2.
5. 0.9mv
6. 0.55v
7. 0.57v
8. Use this for ground when testing 5 through 7.

Last edited by Jakeklem on Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:26 pm; edited 1 time in total
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Jakeklem wrote:
Quote:
Ha, I meant all the other pins on CN6 and CN7.


haha I should have known Embarassed

CN6:
1. 3.3v
2. 0
3. Use this for ground when testing 1 through 8.
6. 65mv
7. 65mv
8. 65mv
9. 11v
10. Use this for ground when testing 9 and 11
11. -11v

CN7:
1. 66mv
2. 66mv
3. Use this for ground when testing 1 and 2.
5. 0
6. 0.54v
7. 0.57v
8. Use this for ground when testing 5 through 7.


Why do you have CN6, pin 2 listed at zero. Don't you have this jumped?
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Jakeklem




Joined: 18 Aug 2010
Posts: 45
PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
macgyver655 wrote:
Jakeklem wrote:
Quote:
Ha, I meant all the other pins on CN6 and CN7.


haha I should have known Embarassed

CN6:
1. 3.3v
2. 0
3. Use this for ground when testing 1 through 8.
6. 65mv
7. 65mv
8. 65mv
9. 11v
10. Use this for ground when testing 9 and 11
11. -11v

CN7:
1. 66mv
2. 66mv
3. Use this for ground when testing 1 and 2.
5. 0
6. 0.54v
7. 0.57v
8. Use this for ground when testing 5 through 7.


Why do you have CN6, pin 2 listed at zero. Don't you have this jumped?


disregard that post... I edited it to be correct
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
It appears to be not working. Plus I still don't like the fact tht the main does not send the pin 2 voltage.

Anyways, what do you want to do? Trouble shoot the P/S ?
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Jakeklem




Joined: 18 Aug 2010
Posts: 45
PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 10:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
You're the expert. so I'll follow your suggestions Wink

I have been thinking about what you said in an earlier post about repairing the original power board. I looked at it again and found visual damage to only the relay and transformer. Granted the pad on the board where they connect is now a hole in the board. But I would assume that I could solder a wire between them instead. Any thoughts on this? Is there more risk to other components than it's worth since I have the other boards to work with?
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
The board with the hole may have more damaged components then just having a hole. Of course it could of only been a bad solder joint that started to arc and then burned until it couldn't draw an arc any more. Or you could also have a bad lamp which causes an arc to ground when the circuit is open in which case fixing all your board problems may still need lamp replacement.

It would of been best if you had received good replacement boards in the first place.

At this point it may be easiest to try to repair any damaged connections from the burn hole board since at least that board seems to be turning on. Just DON'T try testing the lamp output connector or poking around with your fingers there while it is plugged in. High voltage there which is why it has the shock hazard mark.
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Jakeklem




Joined: 18 Aug 2010
Posts: 45
PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Ok, I'll try to fix the original power board. Yes, I've read about the high voltage that runs through the inverters to the lamps and I always do my best to respect electricity!

I came across a website a while back that showed how to test the lamp output from the inverter using car headlights. Haven't tried it though. Ever hear of that? I'll see if I can dig it up.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed in hopes that the lamp's aren't bad. Any idea where I could pick up new ones in case they are?

One more question. Would you recommend I take the relay and whatever else I may need from the board without the burn to use as replacement parts? Or just see if I can order new ones?
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508
PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 13, 2012 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
Jakeklem wrote:


I came across a website a while back that showed how to test the lamp output from the inverter using car headlights. Haven't tried it though. Ever hear of that? I'll see if I can dig it up. Never heard of it.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed in hopes that the lamp's aren't bad. Any idea where I could pick up new ones in case they are?
Yes, if needed.

One more question. Would you recommend I take the relay and whatever else I may need from the board without the burn to use as replacement parts? Or just see if I can order new ones? Use parts from the other board. Don't buy anything just yet.
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Jakeklem




Joined: 18 Aug 2010
Posts: 45
PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
So I soldered in the Relay atC700 and Transformer at T701 from the new board to the old one. I should also note in here that I used a thick, solid, rubber cased copper wire to bridge the hole between the new relay and transformer. I installed the old board with new parts and plugged in only CN6 and took these measurements:

CN6:
1. 3.3v
2. 32mv
3. Use this for ground when testing 1 through 8.
6. 12v
7. 12v
8. 12v
9. 12v
10. Use this for ground when testing 9 and 11
11. 12v


Those all looked fine to me. So I unplugged the set from the wall and also connected CN7. I plugged the set back in and after several second began hearing a sizzling sound coming from where I replaced the components. I immediately pulled the plug. I can repeat this result. At this point I'm assuming there is another bad component on this power board or my solder job wasn't up to par .

Your thoughts?
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