CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[kal]

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Err, you're right. It's probably closer to R20 given that that's what was in there before. I'm actually not sure what the walls are so I'll remove any mention of R-rating from my previous post. All I know is that there's a thick layer of green goop on the walls now and even more in the rim joists/headers.

Kal

[kal]

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Err, you're right. It's probably closer to R20 given that that's what was in there before. I'm actually not sure what the walls are so I'll remove any mention of R-rating from my previous post. All I know is that there's a thick layer of green goop on the walls now and even more in the rim joists/headers.

Kal

[kal]

The entire basement ceiling has now been insulated.



The smell of plywood has been replaced with the smell of burnt cotton candy/caramel that is typical of fiberglass insulation.
(It may look like cotton candy but that doesn't mean you can eat it).

Plumbing inspection is going to be scheduled for Wednesday.

A few more odds and ends to get done in the meantime and then it's on to drywall hopefully by the end of this week.

Kal

[kal]

The entire basement ceiling has now been insulated.



The smell of plywood has been replaced with the smell of burnt cotton candy/caramel that is typical of fiberglass insulation.
(It may look like cotton candy but that doesn't mean you can eat it).

Plumbing inspection is going to be scheduled for Wednesday.

A few more odds and ends to get done in the meantime and then it's on to drywall hopefully by the end of this week.

Kal

[dturco]

Kal why are there furring strips run on the ceiling? Are you doing a drop type ceiling? If that's the case Ok but for drywall on the ceiling you've got a big, no no. They're to far apart and there's no strips at the edges either.

[WTS]

With all that spray foam, what kind of gasing off is taking place, for how long will it gas off and what chemicals are gasing off.

[kal]

[kal]

[kal]

Wow. Copper's gotten really expensive.

Just got the detailed electrician's bill for the rough wiring and was surprised that the materials cost was higher than the labour cost!

Romex wiring used:

1800' of 14/2 (standard 15A circuit stuff)
50' of 14/3 (for a few 3-way switches)
90' of 12/2 (for two 20A home theater circuits)
35' of 6/3 (for the brewery control panel - oversized in case I ever decide to run a 50A panel instead of 30A)
60' of 8/3 (for the sauna heater)

Total: 2035 feet

Kal

[kal]

Wow. Copper's gotten really expensive.

Just got the detailed electrician's bill for the rough wiring and was surprised that the materials cost was higher than the labour cost!

Romex wiring used:

1800' of 14/2 (standard 15A circuit stuff)
50' of 14/3 (for a few 3-way switches)
90' of 12/2 (for two 20A home theater circuits)
35' of 6/3 (for the brewery control panel - oversized in case I ever decide to run a 50A panel instead of 30A)
60' of 8/3 (for the sauna heater)

Total: 2035 feet

Kal

[macgyver655]

Are we guessing this one. I'll say........ mmmmmmm.... $1200.00..... 1075.00 first came to mind.

If I was doing it myself around 700.00 to 750.00

[kal]

If you were just guessing at the cost of the raw romex wire I listed then yup, that's a pretty darned good guess!

Kal

[kal]

If you were just guessing at the cost of the raw romex wire I listed then yup, that's a pretty darned good guess!

Kal

[WanMan]

I love how those studs have been treated in the urinal plumbing. As if to say, "we don't need no stinking studs!"

[kal]

Our building/plumbing inspection yesterday. Everything went very well. The inspector didn't find any issues at all which is sigh of relief.

While we're not doing anything wrong on purpose, in some cases we're pushing the code into grey areas where it could possibly be interpreted different ways, depending on the inspector. The use of sprayfoam is a good example. While it's been around for nearly 20 years I'm told that it's only recently become allowed in the Ontario building code for residential use. Because of this many inspectors are still trying to wrap their heads around the proper usage of sprayfoam.

The only thing that was questioned was whether some sort of special barrier was required between the electrical boxes and sprayfoam, but after a quick confirmation turns out that nothing special is required. (I'm assuming that sprayfoam is more combustable than regular fiberglass insulation).

Most of the interior walls that will be insulated have now been done as well and many small things were finished in anticipation of drywall.

Back of the sauna:




DVD area:




Bathroom:




I'll be good to cover all this up with drywall. The pastel pink & green colour combination really doesn't work for me. I'm having flashbacks of Grandma's house where she used have bowls of pillow mints all over the place:




The alumimum vapour barrier was installed in the sauna:




In the brewery some of the plumbing comes very close to the edge of the studs so protector plates were installed in some spots:



The protector plate is to protect wiring or plumbing in the wall from future screws/nails from the drywall installers (low risk of happening since they see what's there before they hang the sheets) and home owners hanging things (more likely).


A cold air return was installed beside what will eventually be the home theater equipment rack:



You normally want a basement cold air return near the bottom of the basement stairs to pick up the cold air that naturally falls down the stairs so this is a logical place to put it. It's also directly accessible to the main cold air return. To keep noise down an insulated flex-duct was installed instead of using rigid sheet metal duct. There's another return near the bar area that was installed that took considerably more twists and turns. A third is in the mechanical room.

All of the remaining ceiling strapping has been installed to get ready for drywall:



Previously only about half was done to make installation of the insulation easier. I (carefully) moved the copper natural gas line over 4-6" (the snake like pipe in the right of the picture above). Now it's directly between two pieces of strapping instead of right up against one. I figured it was just an accident waiting to happen by an overzealous drywall installer.


Today drywall was delivered and has been spread out to various areas:



It actually doesn't look like much when it's all spread out like that. We have:

- 21 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 8'
- 27 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 9'
- 10 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 10'
- 35 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 12'
- 2 sheets regular 3/8" x 4' x 8' (I'm curious what this thinner stuff is for - maybe niches?)
- 7 sheets moisture resistant 1/2" x 4' x 8' (bathroom)
- 5 sheets moisture resistant 1/2" x 4' x 10' (bathroom)
- 4 sheets cement board 1/2" x 4' x 8' (shower)

We're not using moisture resistant drywall (the green stuff) in the brewery as I'm treating it like a kitchen and tiling the entire floor and the wall where the kettles/hood will be used. Just like a kitchen, there should not be any excess moisture in the air that would condense like you may have in a bathroom because of the shower. My brewery hood vent is directly above the kettles and has worked very well in the past to keep all moisture out of the room.


A couple of pictures of the brewery fan exhaust system (6" duct):






The air inlet from outside (also 6" duct), similar to how you'd feed an HRV:



An adjustable ceiling diffuser that can be turned to open/close will be used. Looks a bit like this:



I'll manually open it when I turn on the hood fan at the start of brew day. We talked about an automated damper with the wall switch that will control the fan (it would open when the fan turns on) but that just seemed like extra complexity/money for little benefit. The wall switch to turn on the hood fan sits directly below the adjustable ceiling diffuser.

Drywall starts Tuesday. Should take about a week to board/mud/sand. This will most definitely be the messiest part.

Kal

[kal]

Our building/plumbing inspection yesterday. Everything went very well. The inspector didn't find any issues at all which is sigh of relief.

While we're not doing anything wrong on purpose, in some cases we're pushing the code into grey areas where it could possibly be interpreted different ways, depending on the inspector. The use of sprayfoam is a good example. While it's been around for nearly 20 years I'm told that it's only recently become allowed in the Ontario building code for residential use. Because of this many inspectors are still trying to wrap their heads around the proper usage of sprayfoam.

The only thing that was questioned was whether some sort of special barrier was required between the electrical boxes and sprayfoam, but after a quick confirmation turns out that nothing special is required. (I'm assuming that sprayfoam is more combustable than regular fiberglass insulation).

Most of the interior walls that will be insulated have now been done as well and many small things were finished in anticipation of drywall.

Back of the sauna:




DVD area:




Bathroom:




I'll be good to cover all this up with drywall. The pastel pink & green colour combination really doesn't work for me. I'm having flashbacks of Grandma's house where she used have bowls of pillow mints all over the place:




The alumimum vapour barrier was installed in the sauna:




In the brewery some of the plumbing comes very close to the edge of the studs so protector plates were installed in some spots:



The protector plate is to protect wiring or plumbing in the wall from future screws/nails from the drywall installers (low risk of happening since they see what's there before they hang the sheets) and home owners hanging things (more likely).


A cold air return was installed beside what will eventually be the home theater equipment rack:



You normally want a basement cold air return near the bottom of the basement stairs to pick up the cold air that naturally falls down the stairs so this is a logical place to put it. It's also directly accessible to the main cold air return. To keep noise down an insulated flex-duct was installed instead of using rigid sheet metal duct. There's another return near the bar area that was installed that took considerably more twists and turns. A third is in the mechanical room.

All of the remaining ceiling strapping has been installed to get ready for drywall:



Previously only about half was done to make installation of the insulation easier. I (carefully) moved the copper natural gas line over 4-6" (the snake like pipe in the right of the picture above). Now it's directly between two pieces of strapping instead of right up against one. I figured it was just an accident waiting to happen by an overzealous drywall installer.


Today drywall was delivered and has been spread out to various areas:



It actually doesn't look like much when it's all spread out like that. We have:

- 21 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 8'
- 27 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 9'
- 10 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 10'
- 35 sheets regular 1/2" x 4' x 12'
- 2 sheets regular 3/8" x 4' x 8' (I'm curious what this thinner stuff is for - maybe niches?)
- 7 sheets moisture resistant 1/2" x 4' x 8' (bathroom)
- 5 sheets moisture resistant 1/2" x 4' x 10' (bathroom)
- 4 sheets cement board 1/2" x 4' x 8' (shower)

We're not using moisture resistant drywall (the green stuff) in the brewery as I'm treating it like a kitchen and tiling the entire floor and the wall where the kettles/hood will be used. Just like a kitchen, there should not be any excess moisture in the air that would condense like you may have in a bathroom because of the shower. My brewery hood vent is directly above the kettles and has worked very well in the past to keep all moisture out of the room.


A couple of pictures of the brewery fan exhaust system (6" duct):






The air inlet from outside (also 6" duct), similar to how you'd feed an HRV:



An adjustable ceiling diffuser that can be turned to open/close will be used. Looks a bit like this:



I'll manually open it when I turn on the hood fan at the start of brew day. We talked about an automated damper with the wall switch that will control the fan (it would open when the fan turns on) but that just seemed like extra complexity/money for little benefit. The wall switch to turn on the hood fan sits directly below the adjustable ceiling diffuser.

Drywall starts Tuesday. Should take about a week to board/mud/sand. This will most definitely be the messiest part.

Kal

[HK-Steve]

Kal,
Thanks for posting your build, it is great to follow your progress.

Definately a reference thread for information, planning and photos of each step,
plus solutions to any problems.

Also to your attention to detail, to get it right, the first time. Congrats.



Cheers

[kal]

My wife's been busy picking out few extra missing pieces that will go in the basement. Lots of hours went into finding something that met the style we're going for and in the budget we want to stay within. Everyone has different styles but luckily both my wife and I have the same tastes. When we don't, she's right.

Wall art for the lounge:

"Dragon's Breath" Modern Metal Wall Art Decor Sculpture




Lounge chairs:

Barcelona chair - Black Leather




Lounge pendant light:

Eurofase 12531-035 Dervish 5-Light Pendant Lighting, Satin Nickel




Bar stools:

Nuevo Living - Portland Adjustable Stool - Black Top Grain Italian Leather




Shower tower:

Fresca FSP8006BS Brushed Silver Verona Five Handle Shower System with Rainshower Head, Four Massaging Jets and Hand Shower




Bar fridge (beverage center):

Marvel 6GARM-BB-O-L Refrigerator 24W, Solid Overlay, Left Hinge




Kal

[kal]

My wife's been busy picking out few extra missing pieces that will go in the basement. Lots of hours went into finding something that met the style we're going for and in the budget we want to stay within. Everyone has different styles but luckily both my wife and I have the same tastes. When we don't, she's right.

Wall art for the lounge:

"Dragon's Breath" Modern Metal Wall Art Decor Sculpture




Lounge chairs:

Barcelona chair - Black Leather




Lounge pendant light:

Eurofase 12531-035 Dervish 5-Light Pendant Lighting, Satin Nickel




Bar stools:

Nuevo Living - Portland Adjustable Stool - Black Top Grain Italian Leather




Shower tower:

Fresca FSP8006BS Brushed Silver Verona Five Handle Shower System with Rainshower Head, Four Massaging Jets and Hand Shower




Bar fridge (beverage center):

Marvel 6GARM-BB-O-L Refrigerator 24W, Solid Overlay, Left Hinge




Kal

[paw]

Kal
Why did you pick a Marvel frig over Uline or other high end brand?

[mc86]

If you don't ask people to remove shoes in your home, I'd worry a bit about the chrome on the base of the barstool showing dirt, scratching a bit, etc. Also, with that large flat base, will they be hard tom move/scoot if needed? Just some thoughts.

Matt

[VideoGrabber]

[zaphod]

and there will be a selection of disposable slippers to offer guests (ikea - 3 dollars a pair).

[kal]

[kal]

[WTS]

I hope you plan on making an access panel for that exhaust fan because dollars to donuts it will require replacing years down the road and probably sooner than you'd think or like.

[kal]

[kal]

[mc86]