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AnalogRocks Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 26690 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 5:47 am Post subject: HELP 4000G |
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Ok so it's running. Not 100% yet but I'll keep at it.
The picture is dark. I can't get a happy medium between brightness and contrast. Should I play with the G2's? Which ones are the G2 pots? Are there precautions I should take ( eg turn the pots back and forth with it off just to make sure they are not dirty)?
I tried pumping the output of the HTPC up to gama 2.7 and adjusting the brighness and contrast on the projector and I almost had a watchable level.
Little help please.
EDIT: Ok found the G2 pot. It's the one I thought it was. The little red one on top of the neck board.
As pictured here:http://curtpalme.com/Ampro1500_Layout9.shtm
I'll follow these instructions but is there some other adjustment I should look for to make the gama right? END EDIT:
_________________ Tech support for nothing
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HD done right!
Last edited by AnalogRocks on Wed Dec 13, 2006 2:57 am; edited 2 times in total
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stefuel
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3353 Location: Green Harbor MA USA
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:53 pm Post subject: |
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I do not think there is a "gama" adjustment on the 2000/4000 models. Do follow the G2 instructions first. then fine tune with your source.
_________________ Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Card carrying member of the AVS chain gang.
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Z-Photo
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 2753 Location: Huntsville - Alabama
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:58 pm Post subject: |
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Turn it off and smash it re-petely with a 10lb sledge.
Works ever time - inky inky blacks.
Also step7 of Ampro annomious.
_________________ Engineer by Day
Photographer by Night
My Portfolio
The Only GOOD AMPRO - is a Dead AMPRO.
wait - are they not all DEAD already?
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Person99
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 4901 Location: Flower Mound, TX
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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Z-Photo wrote: | Turn it off and smash it re-petely with a 10lb sledge.
Works ever time - inky inky blacks.
Also step7 of Ampro annomious. |
Damn it, you beat me to it. I was coming in to post "with a hammer".
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Z-Photo
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 2753 Location: Huntsville - Alabama
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 8:38 pm Post subject: |
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I am rather proud of the RE-PETE ly
_________________ Engineer by Day
Photographer by Night
My Portfolio
The Only GOOD AMPRO - is a Dead AMPRO.
wait - are they not all DEAD already?
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Chuck27
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 379 Location: Caledon Township, Ontario
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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AR, check with Papalek on that one. I can't find the post but he did tell me some time ago that you can adjust sub-brightness and sub-contrast in each sector instead. The codes are not listed in the manual but I wrote them down...in my manual at home and here I am at work.
Chuck
_________________ Chuck
using acreage for sound insulation since 1999
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Chuck27
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 379 Location: Caledon Township, Ontario
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AnalogRocks Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 26690 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:07 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Chuck
_________________ Tech support for nothing
CRT.
HD done right!
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AnalogRocks Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 26690 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:22 pm Post subject: |
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Z-Photo wrote: | Turn it off and smash it re-petely with a 10lb sledge.
Works ever time - inky inky blacks.
Also step7 of Ampro annomious. |
This remids me of my buddies shirt:
"I'm not and alcoholic. Alcoholics goto meetings. I'm just a drunk"
I'm drunk on Ampro. I don't need no steenking meetings.
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AnalogRocks Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 26690 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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Link Posted: Thu Dec 07, 2006 11:24 pm Post subject: |
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Ok here's what I have tried. As per Curt's instructions.
I maxed out the pots by the BNC connectors to make the color even.
I adjusted the sub brightness on the RGB input card for red, green and blue. I tweaked the sub contrast ( didn't notice any difference so I put that one back )
Now I'm going to play with the G2 adjustments.
I'll let you know how it goes.
EDIT: Spelling as usual
_________________ Tech support for nothing
CRT.
HD done right!
Last edited by AnalogRocks on Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:27 am; edited 1 time in total
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papalek
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 1537 Location: Longs SC
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 12:29 am Post subject: |
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I am not sure if the 4000 series has the sub contrast and sub brights in the menu. If it does it is code 94 and 95. The pots on the RGB board are for the individual colors drive. That would be very similar to the sub bright for pure white on a white screen.
All of the contrast and brightness settings should be at 50 before doing the G2 adjustment. Use codes 65,66,67 to turn the tubes off and turn the G2 till you can just make out the raster, and remember that the green takes a little longer to go dark because it is driven harder.
_________________ My current list of PJ's AmPro 1 1/2-4600,4200, 1/2-3600,2600.
I do love my AmPro's
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AnalogRocks Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 26690 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:42 am Post subject: |
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papalek wrote: | I am not sure if the 4000 series has the sub contrast and sub brights in the menu. If it does it is code 94 and 95. The pots on the RGB board are for the individual colors drive. That would be very similar to the sub bright for pure white on a white screen.
All of the contrast and brightness settings should be at 50 before doing the G2 adjustment. Use codes 65,66,67 to turn the tubes off and turn the G2 till you can just make out the raster, and remember that the green takes a little longer to go dark because it is driven harder. |
Curt reccomended setting the brightness and contrast to 75 or so. I had already set the brightness to 50 and the contrast to 70.
Do you think I should go back and realign the video pots with the contrast lowered to 50?
I set the G2, very very touchy. I could see the phosphor in the green glowing still even after I turned off the tube.
I went back and adjusted the pots on the RGB card again untill the colors looked right.
Then I fell asleep cause I was up all last night playing with this thing.
Next issue: lol
I'm getting a thin black line across the centre of the image and diagonal lines across the face of all the tube when the brightness is turned up. I'm going to bypass the Sony switcher and all the miscelaneous cabels to see if it's something in the video chain. I'll take some screen shots when I get a chance. I just got some new breakout cables so I'll test direct from the PC.
Next to solve the overheating problem. I can't run this beastie with the cover closed. It overheats and the red gets the shakes.
Both the belly fans are turning and the LV powersupply fan is working. I just don't think they move enough air. What's the voltage rating for the belly fans? I was thinking of replacing them with UTRA brand whisper fans.
_________________ Tech support for nothing
CRT.
HD done right!
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papalek
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 1537 Location: Longs SC
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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The fans are too SMALL. The 4300 and 4600 use larger fans and do not have anywheres near the heat problems as the 4000 and 4200. If you have the room to remove the fans and put spacers and the larger fans, that would help out a lot.
_________________ My current list of PJ's AmPro 1 1/2-4600,4200, 1/2-3600,2600.
I do love my AmPro's
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Chuck27
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 379 Location: Caledon Township, Ontario
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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AR, there's a guy in Denmark called Flemming Fransden who goes by the nickname of dion swamp over on the A site. He has done extensive work on the cooling system of a 4000 series. His website is dion.swamp.dk but for some reason I can't get the link to work this morning.
He stripped his machine right down, put in larger fans on both the case and the LVPS. There's tons of pictures of what he did as well as the brand and P/N's for the fans. Quite informative.
I'm planning on emulating some of what he has done after the NFL season is over and I can once again work on the beast without having to worry about having it back up again by 1300 every Sunday.
Rolling Eyes
Chuck
_________________ Chuck
using acreage for sound insulation since 1999
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Tom.W
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 6637
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AnalogRocks Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 26690 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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Chuck27 wrote: | AR, there's a guy in Denmark called Flemming Fransden who goes by the nickname of dion swamp over on the A site. He has done extensive work on the cooling system of a 4000 series. His website is dion.swamp.dk but for some reason I can't get the link to work this morning.
He stripped his machine right down, put in larger fans on both the case and the LVPS. There's tons of pictures of what he did as well as the brand and P/N's for the fans. Quite informative.
I'm planning on emulating some of what he has done after the NFL season is over and I can once again work on the beast without having to worry about having it back up again by 1300 every Sunday.
Rolling Eyes
Chuck |
I had a big post on my own thoughts for modding the 4000G then my computer went down ( and not in a good way ).
I've seen his site. It's been down for a while now but google has a cache of it.
I was thinking 2- 12cm fans in the belly, one external to the back of the case firing into the LVPS and some custom ducting from the HVPS and LVPS to a 12cm fan in the top of the case where I'd make a hole, to vent the hot air out. I'd also remove the fuse cover from the LVPS and put a custom one on that's vented.
I've been looking at the ULTRA brand whisper quiet fans. I have one in my computer case and you can't hear it run.
_________________ Tech support for nothing
CRT.
HD done right!
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Chuck27
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 379 Location: Caledon Township, Ontario
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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Those are honking big fans you're talking about. I bought some 100 mm diameter fans and I think I'll need to make a cone-type spacer for them because I'm reluctant to take a jigsaw to the case....but only because I'd have to take all the electronics out first and I'm way too ham-fisted to have confidence in my ability to get it back together again right.
_________________ Chuck
using acreage for sound insulation since 1999
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Chuck27
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 379 Location: Caledon Township, Ontario
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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AnalogRocks wrote: | [ I'd also remove the fuse cover from the LVPS and put a custom one on that's vented.
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I just took mine off. If someone wants to open the pj cover and then stick their fingers into the hole and get electrocuted, they're more than welcome.
_________________ Chuck
using acreage for sound insulation since 1999
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AnalogRocks Forum Moderator
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 26690 Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 4:56 pm Post subject: |
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Chuck27 wrote: | AnalogRocks wrote: | [ I'd also remove the fuse cover from the LVPS and put a custom one on that's vented.
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I just took mine off. If someone wants to open the pj cover and then stick their fingers into the hole and get electrocuted, they're more than welcome. |
'Nother thought on that. There are two nice screws there already. I'm going to screw the duct in place using those screws.
I'm also going to use the old mouse pad trick to isolate the fans from vibration. Cut the mousepad to line the fans edges and also as a gromet for the fan mounting holes. You made a bolt isolator set up to stop vibrations into the case. I may not need the latter as these fans don't vibrate much so I'll see how far I need to go.
_________________ Tech support for nothing
CRT.
HD done right!
Last edited by AnalogRocks on Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:19 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Chuck27
Joined: 09 Mar 2006 Posts: 379 Location: Caledon Township, Ontario
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 08, 2006 5:04 pm Post subject: |
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The mouse pad idea is a great one, I've been trying to think of a source for the best material to isolate the fans and you've just found it for me.....tanks!
Have you considered contact cement instead of bolts? I don't think the start-up torque of the fans would be too excessive, and that would be my major concern with not having a mechanical connection.
_________________ Chuck
using acreage for sound insulation since 1999
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