Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 335 Location: near Toronto Ont
Link Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 1:38 am Post subject:
Green is the only one that makes a really obvious difference and mostly on up and down. The blue up and down is noticeable but subtle.
I'm using the test pattern (squares) from DVE Basics because using the internal patterns the lines are too big.
The overall focus is good enough to watch but I've seen better (at least sharper) pictures at the bar on their LCD projector. The biggest complaint I have with the bar projector ( I checked the model#, it's a panasonic and lists at $2000.00) is that anything moving on screen is one big blur, other than that it was crisp, bright, and watchable with the lights on.
On most equipment failure to respond to adjustment is an obvious fault so I believe that my PJ can be improved even though the picture is watchable.
Joined: 03 May 2006 Posts: 1006 Location: Sweatbucket, Fl.
Link Posted: Sat Jun 05, 2010 6:54 pm Post subject:
If you lower the horizontal dynamic focus (99 code and left arrow) to min the sides should noticably defocus. Normal setting is about 90, for horizontal all three colors, and at that setting the focus mod heatsink will be pretty hot if it's working right.
The vertical dynamic focus and the static focus use the same circuits so if static is working there is a pretty good chance that vertical is also.
Scott _________________ "Were we directed from Washington when to sow and when to reap, we would soon want bread."
Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 335 Location: near Toronto Ont
Link Posted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 11:04 pm Post subject:
Green is good on both electronic focus adjustments, the difference is obvious as the numbers change as little as 3 points. Red and blue the only difference that I can see is the red static as adjustment is swept from min to max. Our eyes see green more easily than the other 2 ?? but what's the point of an adjustment if I can't see the difference?
Which board physically am I looking for to see if it's warm?
Shows the focus modulator board. It will run pretty hot if the three horizontal dynamic focus controls are set about normal near 90. If it is cool it ain't working.
The red and blue focus adjustments make an obvious difference if everything is working right. When you punch in 99 then code you have to select the color. Try red then press the left arrow to get to zero. The left and right edges should be obviously out of focus. Reset to 90 with the right arrow.
Scott _________________ "Were we directed from Washington when to sow and when to reap, we would soon want bread."
Joined: 07 Mar 2006 Posts: 3208 Location: Green Harbor MA USA
Link Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 2:02 am Post subject:
One thing of note: If your optical focus is not correct, you're not likely to see much difference in dynamic electronic focus.
Green is the easiest lens to get correct. Due to the toe-in of the red and blue, optical focus is more complicated and difficult to get correct. So if you're out of optical focus on the edges, all the electronic focus means squat. _________________ Chip
A Barco is only a AmPro with training wheels
Joined: 14 Jul 2009 Posts: 335 Location: near Toronto Ont
Link Posted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 12:15 am Post subject:
tse wrote:
http://www.curtpalme.com/Ampro3600_Layout2.shtm
Shows the focus modulator board. It will run pretty hot if the three horizontal dynamic focus controls are set about normal near 90. If it is cool it ain't working.
The red and blue focus adjustments make an obvious difference if everything is working right. When you punch in 99 then code you have to select the color. Try red then press the left arrow to get to zero. The left and right edges should be obviously out of focus. Reset to 90 with the right arrow.
Scott
OK The big black heat sink that runs mostly full width of the projector is fairly warm , so that means it's the optical focus too far off??????
The manual gives a start setting for the e-focus while setting the optical and I aimed for the sharpest lines before moving on to the e-focus.
Is there a better way?
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