CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Curt Palme]

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Thought I'd share this quickly, want f/b from others before I put it on the main site.

One PITA that I've always had with Marquee LC tubes in taking them out of the aluminum housing is as per the procedure on the main site, once you use a drill to clear out all of the hardened silicone around the tube, you need to use a prybar and hammer to loosen the tube from the bellows, which can smash the tube, not to mention the 'yikes, I'm using a hammer on a CRT tube' thought.

So what I tried last week and worked like a hot damn is as follows:

Take out all hardened silicone as before around the tube, so you have about an inch or so deep groove/channel all around the tube. Take out all loose silicone bits, use an air compressor to blow out and clean out the channel/groove.

Take pure turpentine and pour it into the channel. Now, I poured the turpentine around the tube last Tuesday, was going to take it out of the channel on Thursday AM before I left for out of town, so it sat in there until Sat night at midnight when I came back into town. I saw it as I drove into the driveway, and gently pulled on the tube neck when I got in. I'll be damned if the tube didn't pull right out, I guess the 96 hours of soaking the silicone softened it. NO damage to the bellows, I flushed the LC area right away once the tube came out, and have let water sit in the LC chamber for 12 hours now, no leaks.

So what you say? Seems like a great way to go, as long as you have a few days to soak the turpentine around the tube.

[Curt Palme]

Register to remove this ad. It's free!

Thought I'd share this quickly, want f/b from others before I put it on the main site.

One PITA that I've always had with Marquee LC tubes in taking them out of the aluminum housing is as per the procedure on the main site, once you use a drill to clear out all of the hardened silicone around the tube, you need to use a prybar and hammer to loosen the tube from the bellows, which can smash the tube, not to mention the 'yikes, I'm using a hammer on a CRT tube' thought.

So what I tried last week and worked like a hot damn is as follows:

Take out all hardened silicone as before around the tube, so you have about an inch or so deep groove/channel all around the tube. Take out all loose silicone bits, use an air compressor to blow out and clean out the channel/groove.

Take pure turpentine and pour it into the channel. Now, I poured the turpentine around the tube last Tuesday, was going to take it out of the channel on Thursday AM before I left for out of town, so it sat in there until Sat night at midnight when I came back into town. I saw it as I drove into the driveway, and gently pulled on the tube neck when I got in. I'll be damned if the tube didn't pull right out, I guess the 96 hours of soaking the silicone softened it. NO damage to the bellows, I flushed the LC area right away once the tube came out, and have let water sit in the LC chamber for 12 hours now, no leaks.

So what you say? Seems like a great way to go, as long as you have a few days to soak the turpentine around the tube.

[draganm]

I just spent 2 hours last night digging a tube out of an LC frame, it's still stuck in there. i'm willing to try the Turpentine if it's not too messy. I'm picturing this sticky globby mess, how bad is it to clean up?

[Tim in Phoenix]

Hello

Charles at VDC likes to put the tube in a 250F oven a couple of hours, providing you have taken the rear casting apart from the front casting. Saves you a couple of days however.


.

[Nashou66]

I'll try it too when i return from my trip next month.

Athanasios

[Curt Palme]

Dragan, other than it being stinky (I did mine outside), there's no mess at all. Only fill the turpentine to just under the edge of the aluminum, so it doesn't spill. I lifted the tube out gently, didn't spill anything but a few drops there either, put the tube aside, then carried the LC housing over to the hose and drain to flush the turpentine out quickly, as I didn't want it damaging the bellows. Seemed to work fine.

Next time I do it, I'll try taking the tube out in 12 hour intervals, but really, it slid right out with minimal force after about 96 hours, I know I did try rocking the tube back and forth after 2 hours, and it was still stuck in there solid.

[Curt Palme]

Dragan, other than it being stinky (I did mine outside), there's no mess at all. Only fill the turpentine to just under the edge of the aluminum, so it doesn't spill. I lifted the tube out gently, didn't spill anything but a few drops there either, put the tube aside, then carried the LC housing over to the hose and drain to flush the turpentine out quickly, as I didn't want it damaging the bellows. Seemed to work fine.

Next time I do it, I'll try taking the tube out in 12 hour intervals, but really, it slid right out with minimal force after about 96 hours, I know I did try rocking the tube back and forth after 2 hours, and it was still stuck in there solid.

[Mark_A_W]

Yep, I use turps on NEC tubes too.

It's about the only solvent that will eat silicone, but not kill you...immediately anyway..

[Decibel]

For italian people: "turpentine" is acquaragia

[cmjohnson]

I place a fitted wood block right over the CRT face and then use bar clamps to slowly push the aluminum frame off the CRT, by setting the whole affair up face down on a workbench. The frame is being pressed down toward the bench and the wood block spaces the CRT face
far enough away from the bench that the frame has room to be pushed down. It takes just a few minutes to get the job done, but you
do need to extract what silicone you can from the channel first.

CJ

[-Pjackso]

Will the turpentine hurt the C-element? That's be my only concern.

...I'm thinking over a long time period. For example, you let the turpentine work on the silicone, it dissolves the silicone, and the turpentine leaks into the LC chamber (without you knowing) and pools on the C-element.

Somebody probably has a bad C-element laying around. Try letting one soak for 2 days and post the results. I'd be curious.

[Nashou66]

Why even bother, use my advanced procedure to remove the Bellow from the Tube face housing side and keep the C-Element in place. then put the tube and the tube face plate in a bucket of turpentine and let the turpentine do the work. the C-element and bellow can be washed and cleaned while still in that part of the housing. After you put the new tube on the face plate and fill the cavity, re assemble the front of the LC housing that has the C element tot he Face plate and then fill with glycol.

Athanasios

[draganm]

[Mark_A_W]

You mean like this guys?

[stefuel]

I bought the perfect tool for the job and it's mult-use. You should all do it my way. It's quick and a hell-a-va lot more fun then pushing them out.
Oh, I'm sorry. I forgot to name the tool. Eastwing 22oz framming hammer. No soaking, no pressing and no waiting

Really, when you think about it, no one seems to be sending tubes in for rebuilding any more because they suck so bad and they take up way less space in the trash when you remove them my way

[dturco]

[Mr. Green]

I can see it now "Chip smash! Arrrr!"

[Mark_A_W]

5 minutes with the clamps is a lot better than 1 minute with the hammer and 15 minutes with the vacuum cleaner...

[dturco]

[Mark_A_W]

Yes, I know.

We are just rambling OT.

[dturco]

In that case.... is this red from the C Element or my bloody finger?

[stefuel]