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Anyone got ideas for better layout and finishing this.....
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loribates




Joined: 02 Dec 2007
Posts: 185
Location: KS


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


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wkosman and draganm How far away from the screens are your pjs and what size screen. wkosman... yours look pretty close to the screen.

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Nashou66




Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How far is the second post from the 22' wall you have one very close and the the next one, I was thinking you move that post closer towards the AC, but first run another 2x6 beam from the 22'wall side to the post right by the AC this will allow you to move the one post out of the way and give you more support across the span. I don't think it will be an issue since your one span is 102" on the other side of the house (under the Kitchen). This will open up that space for unobtrusive view of the screen on the area you marked 116" a nice 100 inch screen or 110 if you want.

EDIT: Is the center beam wood?

Then the PJ would most likely mount right under the beam , if you go in front of the beam you'll have a smaller screen maybe 92 inches. But i think you will have enough
head room even if you mount it under the beam.

Athanasios

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loribates




Joined: 02 Dec 2007
Posts: 185
Location: KS


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 5:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes. The center beam is wood (I'd have to go look again to know how many) but I think 4 sistered 2 x 6. Starting with 7 ft ceiling, take away the 6 inch beam and 7 inches for just the pj base. That's down to 5 ft 11 inches not counting the rest of the pj. I'd say that leaves the pj hanging down around the 5 ft off the floor level...

I will have someone come look at that one post. If I could just get it out of the way it would solve a lot


Thank you so much for the help. I appreciate it!

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Nashou66




Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 5:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did the same thing in my home, I got lucky and just removed one post. It was loose any how and not supporting anyhting. but since your one beam spread is 102 inches you should be able to move that one as well or add another 2x6 next to the existing ones, on the side and nail; it to the other beams all ready there. If your paranoid and reallt want to be safe a steel I beam next to the wood one would work too if you can get it in there. Then you just put two new posts and then remove the one in the middle.

Athanasios

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"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
Marquee C-element and Bellow removal
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huggy




Joined: 02 Aug 2008
Posts: 927
Location: Melbourne,Australia


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

loribates wrote:
draganm wrote:
definitely get that sucker hung. I think a floor mounted CRT is really awful, like an unwelcome guest that never leaves. Laughing
Once it's up, it can look like this although this ceiling is 8 feet tall. OH and for thos elag bolts, I assume your pre-drilling but after that make sure you wax or even bar-soap the bolt. IT's good for the bolt and your hands too


Yes, pre-drilling, but this 100 year old wood is a bugger. I cannot tell you the number of paddle bits and hole saws I've gone through cutting holes in studs to run wiring. It's a royal biotch.

Sooooooo Who wants to come help build a mount and hang a little ole Marquee???? Mr. Green



Hole saw and paddles won't cut it with old wood,I use the following

http://www.acefixings.com/products/id/1193/14mm-x-230mm-wood-auger-bit/

Goes through easily.




Dave
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huggy




Joined: 02 Aug 2008
Posts: 927
Location: Melbourne,Australia


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

loribates wrote:
Yes. The center beam is wood (I'd have to go look again to know how many) but I think 4 sistered 2 x 6. Starting with 7 ft ceiling, take away the 6 inch beam and 7 inches for just the pj base. That's down to 5 ft 11 inches not counting the rest of the pj. I'd say that leaves the pj hanging down around the 5 ft off the floor level...

I will have someone come look at that one post. If I could just get it out of the way it would solve a lot


Thank you so much for the help. I appreciate it!


Are the posts which are taking the staircase taking any load above,or are thay just taking the floorload?
In other words are there any direct or concentrated loads on the walls (if any) directly above the staircase.
If there are no loads above,it is possible to remove both posts and replace with timber beams spanning the whole distance of the staircase.
I must stress though that if there are any direct loads above,an engineer needs consulting only to determine beam sizes,if not it's easy to do.


Dave
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wkosmann




Joined: 29 Nov 2006
Posts: 387
Location: Middleburg, Virginia


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lori;

Quote:
wkosman and draganm How far away from the screens are your pjs and what size screen. wkosman... yours look pretty close to the screen.


I am blending 2 Marquees onto a 12' wide SmX screen. Each projector is lighting up 6' + 10% (for the blend zone). From memory, I think the projectors are about 12' from the screen. I will measure (next time I am home) and post the result.

I might be willing to come help you mount the Marquee on the ceiling, once you've figured out where it is going to be mounted. Where in Kansas are you located? My brother in law lives in Leawood, a suburb of Kansas City.

On the other hand, there are Electrohome ceiling mounts available that allow one person to raise or lower the projector, using a rope/pulley system. I just sold one locally, and just happen to have another one available. PM me ASAP, if you are interested. I could get it to Iowa, at no shipping cost, as Don Wallace is driving tomorrow to Indiana for Cliffy's HT Meet this weekend. Adam, from Iowa, is also attending the Meet this weekend. (I am also attending, but I am flying.)

William

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drice1234




Joined: 07 Oct 2006
Posts: 1309
Location: Allen, Texas


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
definitely get that sucker hung. I think a floor mounted CRT is really awful, like an unwelcome guest that never leaves.


I will go by what everyone says about a ceiling mounted PJ throwing a better picture than a floor mount because I have nothing to compare it to but I will not agree that having a 140 lb box car that is not somehow recessed or hidden hanging from the ceiling is more attractive than a floor mounted unit in a half-way decent enclosure.
Dan



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draganm




Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado


PostLink    Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2009 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lori my screen is 92" wide (120" diag?) and tip of lenses are approximately 9 feet back from screen.


drice1234 wrote:
I will go by what everyone says about a ceiling mounted PJ throwing a better picture than a floor mount because I have nothing to compare it to but I will not agree that having a 140 lb box car that is not somehow recessed or hidden hanging from the ceiling is more attractive than a floor mounted unit in a half-way decent enclosure.
Dan
you have a really nice room and a very nice hush box, looks nicer than a ceiling mount. However it wasn't the looks of my floor mount that bugged me. I had mine on the ground for a year and what eventually got under my skin was having this big Lawn-mower sized Marquee PJ hogging up the best seats in the house.

Last edited by draganm on Sun Apr 26, 2009 4:58 pm; edited 1 time in total
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loribates




Joined: 02 Dec 2007
Posts: 185
Location: KS


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2009 12:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I called a structural engineer today to see if they could come out and take a look and tell me what's structural support and what can go away. The guy I needed to talk to was out and I've yet to get a call back.

In the meantime, I will bore you all with some photos.


This is the back wall (if you look at the previous image of the house layout, the porch is north, the back of the house is south. This photo is the center beam on the south end

http://www.lovemyoldhome.com/supports/_DSC0001.JPG



This is a 4 x 4 halfway between south wall and the central chimney

http://www.lovemyoldhome.com/supports/_DSC0003.JPG

This is another (split out) 4x4 right at the chimney on the south side of it. (chimney intersects the beam

http://www.lovemyoldhome.com/supports/_DSC0002.JPG

Another just north of the chimney

http://www.lovemyoldhome.com/supports/_DSC0004.JPG

Another right at where the AC sits (yeah, excuse the DIY makeshift plenum..... things get done as I get time....it's been that way for 5 years and still not ducted either)

http://www.lovemyoldhome.com/supports/_DSC0005.JPG

This is roughly a 2 x 8 it's the one that's 102" off the north wall and one I want gone

http://www.lovemyoldhome.com/supports/_DSC0006.JPG

This is the other one nearly on the north wall and the other end of the beam

http://www.lovemyoldhome.com/supports/_DSC0007.JPG





All of the 4 x 4s were in place when the floor was poured. I assume they have footings under them. The two 2 x 8's just sit on top of the concrete floor and obvious came later, I just don't know if possibly they chopped off a 4 x 4 somewhere in that span and put these two in place of it. There are 4 x 4s at other places on the east side. These two under the main staircase (one of which has been making me nervous for some time now......)


http://www.lovemyoldhome.com/supports/_DSC0008.JPG

This is the one that makes me nervous.

http://www.lovemyoldhome.com/supports/_DSC0009.JPG

and a couple more on the south-east side.

There are absolutely NO 4 x 4 columns west of that central beam save over by the south staircase that leads to the basement.

So, was there anything enlightening in all of that? I know the electrical is a mess. The basement is the only part of the house I haven't completely rewired. The whole house was running on 5 circuits, mostly knob and tube with screw in fuses and no grounds when I moved in.

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loribates




Joined: 02 Dec 2007
Posts: 185
Location: KS


PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 4:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

YAY!!!! There is currently a jack post installed over by the AC and tomorrow I'm ripping out that support that was throwing a monkey wrench in everything! First order of business is to clean out the cedar closet down there and move all the servers into it. I cannot move or remove any of the supports under the staircase. They are carrying the staircase and some of the second floor. I can live with that though and face the theater west. I'm so excited. Thanks to all of you for the suggestions!
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draganm




Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado


PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lori before you start ripping things out I would get some professional advice first. I really don't think you need an Engineer but a good seasoned Carpenter would know what to do in 20 minutes. If you were in AZ I'd send my borther over there with 20 years experience.
As you have already noted It's very obvious that some stuff is original and other things have been Kluged in by either previous home owners or Joe Handy man posing as a professional Carpenter. The Chimney is the worst, It looks like someone cut the main beam to put in the chimney and then put in a couple of 4 x 4's on either side as a crutch.
The 4 x 8's that are sitting on the floor are also a sign that someone was trying to remedy a sagging floor condition above. At this point I would say that Caution is called for and I would certainly not start removing things without a full understanding of why they're there and how things could be made better without compromising the integrity of the floor above.
Usually in these older home what you find is beams spanning lengths that are beyond their rated load limits. There are charts you could google that will tell you how far a joist of a given size can span between supports. To remove supports, what I've seen done is a heavier beam is sistered adjacent to an existing older joist. The floor and older joist are then usually jacked up to level the floor above and the 2 joists are then lagged and glued to each other creating a heavier joist capable of spanning a greater distance. Some or all of the supoorting columns can them be removed safely. This is a lot of work and it's expensive but for an older home it's still an economical way of creating additional usable living space in the basement.
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loribates




Joined: 02 Dec 2007
Posts: 185
Location: KS


PostLink    Posted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I already had it checked. There was really no weight on that one I'm ripping out.
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loribates




Joined: 02 Dec 2007
Posts: 185
Location: KS


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 2:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wkosmann wrote:
Lori;

Quote:
wkosman and draganm How far away from the screens are your pjs and what size screen. wkosman... yours look pretty close to the screen.



I might be willing to come help you mount the Marquee on the ceiling, once you've figured out where it is going to be mounted. Where in Kansas are you located? My brother in law lives in Leawood, a suburb of Kansas City.

On the other hand, there are Electrohome ceiling mounts available that allow one person to raise or lower the projector, using a rope/pulley system. I just sold one locally, and just happen to have another one available. PM me ASAP, if you are interested. I could get it to Iowa, at no shipping cost, as Don Wallace is driving tomorrow to Indiana for Cliffy's HT Meet this weekend. Adam, from Iowa, is also attending the Meet this weekend. (I am also attending, but I am flying.)

William


I thank you very much for such a generous offer. I wouldn't expect someone to travel such a distance. I'm still several hours from KC. I plan to enlist a bunch of big guys from work, plenty of which have sat in that basement and taken advantage of viewing this pj.

One of these days, it would however be nice if someone ever gets close to come run through a setup with me. I am too afraid to mess with the magnets and my beam focus is the one thing I'm never really happy with. The electronic beam focus only gets me so far. I messed with the magnets on the Sony one time and had myself so worked up I was shaking the whole time. Sometimes I think my eyes fool me too. I have a little bit of astigmatism that I chose not to spring extra for to have corrected when I had the lasik. I wonder sometimes if I'm what I'm seeing is an from my eyesight or the pj.

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loribates




Joined: 02 Dec 2007
Posts: 185
Location: KS


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, guys here's my plan. First of all, clean out the basement. There is a cedar closet in that 2' bump out from the corner over to the laundry area. I plan to empty it out and house the servers and the AV equipment in there. I'll run a couple of new circuits in there and get a remote extender system so everything can be hidden away in that closet.

I think the easiest treatment for the walls is to carry on with the way I made the screen. I'll buy the 4 x 8 sheets of Owens Corning 3/4" styrofoam sheathing which is tongue in groove and use liquid nails to attach it to the walls starting at the 116" wall on the west side starting at the chimney and going all the way around the other exterior wall (the 22 ft wall). I can either cover these with black fabric or paint them black and cover the seams with some nice cording. (I'm leaning toward the paint..... fabric gets dusty and is hard to clean when it's stuck to a wall) I mudded and sanded the seams on the ones I used on the screen and that job is still holding up so far. I can make this look like a solid wall easy enough and add baseboard, I just don't want to jack with framing those exterior walls and sheetrocking them. If anything ever leaks or I have seepage on the exterior walls, the styrofoam would be undamaged, sheetrock would be destroyed.

The screen end will be on the 116 inch side between the chimney and the corner. I'll paint that whole end with my white screen formula and finish those seams. Once I get the pj mounted and the image sized and the rasters optimized, that will dictate my screen size then I can build an empty frame for the exact dimensions of the screen area, paint the frame black and hang it on the wall and paint everything outside of it black, leaving only my screen area inside the frame white.

I'll build a real wall from the 22ft wall just in front of those two supports for the staircase leaving the area behind it as storage for stuff (mostly my stack of lumber I keep in the basement) My existing riser should sit nicely against that new wall for the back row. I think I can get two more rows of seating in front of it. Probably need to build another riser half the height of the one I've already got for the second row, then the first row on floor level.

I'd like to bring that new wall over to just past the AC to make that a cozy little alcove back there. Trying to figure out if I should bring a wall all the way across the rest of the way and put in a doorway or just stop it at the edge of the AC....... My preference would at least be a half wall with a doorway all the way across to keep unwanted visitors (golden retriever and his hair) out of my theater area.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

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Last edited by loribates on Tue Apr 28, 2009 5:28 am; edited 1 time in total
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Curt Palme
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24305
Location: Langley, BC

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PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

loribates wrote:
Well, guys here's my plan. First of all, clean out the basement.

Any thoughts or suggestions?


AS my fiance will tell you, I personally would stop right there, as that's a 2 year project around here. Mr. Green
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loribates




Joined: 02 Dec 2007
Posts: 185
Location: KS


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 5:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it's no small task around here either, but I've had several "partial" basement purge sessions the last year or so. My truck knows the way to the landfill. So..... I can probably get the basement done in a weekend if I have cooperation and not somebody standing around saying "Are you SURE you want to get rid of this" or rescuing things from the trash.......
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draganm




Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 5:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

loribates wrote:
cooperation and not somebody standing around saying "Are you SURE you want to get rid of this" or rescuing things from the trash.......
LOL that's hilarious, I do the exact same thing to my wife. I can't belive some of the stuff women want to throw out Laughing
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loribates




Joined: 02 Dec 2007
Posts: 185
Location: KS


PostLink    Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

draganm wrote:
I can't belive some of the stuff women want to throw out Laughing


All of YOUR stuff, of course! I mean, we can't be getting rid of OUR stuff...

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joatmon




Joined: 17 Mar 2009
Posts: 127
Location: Ottawa, Ontario


PostLink    Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

loribates wrote:
I think the easiest treatment for the walls is to carry on with the way I made the screen. I'll buy the 4 x 8 sheets of Owens Corning 3/4" styrofoam sheathing which is tongue in groove and use liquid nails to attach it to the walls starting at the 116" wall on the west side starting at the chimney and going all the way around the other exterior wall (the 22 ft wall). I can either cover these with black fabric or paint them black and cover the seams with some nice cording. (I'm leaning toward the paint..... fabric gets dusty and is hard to clean when it's stuck to a wall) I mudded and sanded the seams on the ones I used on the screen and that job is still holding up so far. I can make this look like a solid wall easy enough and add baseboard, I just don't want to jack with framing those exterior walls and sheetrocking them. If anything ever leaks or I have seepage on the exterior walls, the styrofoam would be undamaged, sheetrock would be destroyed.


From a safety point of view, this isn't a good idea. XPS and EPS insulation are supposed to be covered with a fire rated material (e.g. sheet rock).
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