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Cine8 broken :(
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capa



Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 29
Location: Hamburg, Germany


PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 10:55 am    Post subject: Cine8 broken :( Reply with quote


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Hi all.

Had my Cine8 set up with your help and it produced a very nice image.

The signal feed was PS3 -> HDMI DVI cable -> HD Fury -> XVue 1040 -> VGA to BNC cable -> Cine8

A friend of mine wanted to see how it was to play games on that set - GT5 prologue.

The game ran on full 4 by 3 format and in bright scenes I heard a snarring noise on the rear side of the PJ.
Had the fear that this was due to overshooting the safe area of the tubes, lowered brightness and contrast
to see the image dimensions on the tube surfaces but there was still enough room to the edges.

Did not want to be a bad sport turning the set off...

That was something my projector did on his own after half an hour of playing.
Black screen, fans were still running and I still could turn it off with the remote.

I did not yet dare to turn it on again....

Thanks in advance for any hints or suggestions.

Regards
Carsten

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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1459
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland


PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd try to turn it on and see if it throw picture.

If not, check if there is red leds on. Check also eht board.
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capa



Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 29
Location: Hamburg, Germany


PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just gave it a try and to my surprise the white warm up screen came up like it always did...

This image was much larger than the screen ever since and I did not find a way to adjust it.
Is that warm up procedure needed/ helpful from your experience?

What would be your next steps to track down the error?
Do not want to risk to seriously damage my projector if I run it again with the same settings.

Regards
Carsten

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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 18043
Location: Langley, BC


PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the pix is too large for the screen/tube face, and it's dim and out of focus, you have problems in the HV section. you need to swap out the HV quadrupler/splitter/EHT board. If you have no spares, send them to me and I"ll test them.
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capa



Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 29
Location: Hamburg, Germany


PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Curt.

The image is only too large during the warm up phase.

As soon as I feed the signal from the PS3 everything looks good so far but as soon as I have
scenes with a bright upper half there is that noise again which frightens me...

Bad components or bad setup? (Hard to tell I guess...)

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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1459
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland


PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

capa wrote:
Just gave it a try and to my surprise the white warm up screen came up like it always did...

This image was much larger than the screen ever since and I did not find a way to adjust it.
Is that warm up procedure needed/ helpful from your experience?

What would be your next steps to track down the error?
Do not want to risk to seriously damage my projector if I run it again with the same settings.

Regards
Carsten
I don't use warm up screen, it just wear tubes faster. Picture is pretty ok without it after minute or so.

Not sure what snarring noise means. Does that sound go away if you lower contrast during bright scene.
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capa



Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 29
Location: Hamburg, Germany


PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just made a small movie with my digital camera.
Audio would have been enough but I don't know how to extract that from an mpeg Wink

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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 18043
Location: Langley, BC


PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think I'd worry about it. Can't quite tell if it's SMPS noise or HV noise, but there's no lines in the screen indicating arcing, so I'd run it until something fails permanently.
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kschmit2



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1141
Location: Heidelberg, Germany


PostLink    Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

capa wrote:
Just gave it a try and to my surprise the white warm up screen came up like it always did...

This image was much larger than the screen ever since and I did not find a way to adjust it.
Is that warm up procedure needed/ helpful from your experience?


Regards
Carsten


Art Sonneborn used the warm up screen all the time iirc.
He thinks that it was the main reason his stack still had very good tubes when he took it down.

The warm up screen is supposed to be larger than your typical active image area.
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capa



Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 29
Location: Hamburg, Germany


PostLink    Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update: Watching content in full screen kills it within minutes. One bright flash and the tubes are off.
16:9 content will last longer...

The noise changes if I adjust the gamma level on the Box1040.

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Ile



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 1459
Location: Jyväskylä, Finland


PostLink    Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

capa wrote:
Update: Watching content in full screen kills it within minutes. One bright flash and the tubes are off.
16:9 content will last longer...

The noise changes if I adjust the gamma level on the Box1040.
Gamma adjustment will boost video over 0,7 Vpp. It have same effect that you adjust contrast higher.

Try without gammabox and contrast at 50, just to see if sound is still there.
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capa



Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 29
Location: Hamburg, Germany


PostLink    Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ile wrote:
Try without gammabox and contrast at 50, just to see if sound is still there.

Just fed the signal via HDFury to port 3 of the PJ without the Box1040 in between, contrast 50 and in bright scenes the noise is still the same...

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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 18043
Location: Langley, BC


PostLink    Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have HV arcing or lack of HV regulation going on. At least that's what it's sounding like.
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capa



Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 29
Location: Hamburg, Germany


PostLink    Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 4:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Curt Palme wrote:
You have HV arcing or lack of HV regulation going on. At least that's what it's sounding like.

Can this be tracked down to one specific board or what replacements would you recommend?
Don't have spare parts here so I think I could need your big warehouse Wink

Is the shutdown due to over-temp/ over-current?

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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 18043
Location: Langley, BC


PostLink    Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2008 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No and no. Just a pretty common failure on any Barco. You need to send me the quad and EHT boards, I'll test them here, will repair/replace what is required and I'll send them back.

Here's how to send them in:

http://www.curtpalme.com/ContactUs_Shipping_Parts.shtm
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capa



Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 29
Location: Hamburg, Germany


PostLink    Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Curt.

You mentioned EHT boards, did I miss something? You need to have the quadrupler and the EHT (R7627165), right?

Just took the EHT board out and found that it only had a very light fit, it literally fell off as soon as I removed the screws...
Is this normal?

And I noticed that one edge of the thermal layer is bent under and touches one leg of the component (btw. what exactly is this, a thyristor?) mounted to the heatsink.
Even though those things are non-conductive (at least I hope so) would this be able to disturb signal flow?

Regards
Carsten



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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 18043
Location: Langley, BC


PostLink    Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 4:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's what I need, yes. If the board was screwed down, then the contacts are fine, same with the thermal layer. THis is some fault on the board or quadrupler. I'll figure it out..Smile
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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 1221
Location: Calgary


PostLink    Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 7:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah I'd say it sounds like a regulation problem. Send them to Curt he'll fix them up for ya.
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Tom.W



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6368



PostLink    Posted: Sat Aug 09, 2008 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

capa wrote:
Thank you Curt.

You mentioned EHT boards, did I miss something? You need to have the quadrupler and the EHT (R7627165), right?

Just took the EHT board out and found that it only had a very light fit, it literally fell off as soon as I removed the screws...
Is this normal?

And I noticed that one edge of the thermal layer is bent under and touches one leg of the component (btw. what exactly is this, a thyristor?) mounted to the heatsink.
Even though those things are non-conductive (at least I hope so) would this be able to disturb signal flow?

Regards
Carsten


Did you check the fuse on the EHT ?
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capa



Joined: 22 Oct 2007
Posts: 29
Location: Hamburg, Germany


PostLink    Posted: Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WTS wrote:
Yeah I'd say it sounds like a regulation problem. Send them to Curt he'll fix them up for ya.


You're right, have just packed them (yes I read the 'packing best practices') and brought them to the post office.

So Curt there's work on the way for you Wink

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