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Component Issue with EXT-HD
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ralpharch




Joined: 02 Nov 2007
Posts: 211
Location: Derwood


PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Rolls-Royce wrote:
VR1 is the gamma pot. Thanks!


Moome et al

I had a similar question in another thread where I thought I may have adjusted the wrong pot but wasn't sure (trying to get more range out of my gamma via remote).

I know my box is in transit back after you looked at the power supply - but just for my future reference wanted to nail down what the pots do and where they should be set. (maybe if you haven't actually put it in mail yet you can check the VR3 on my box ) ?

I also have the VGA (not BNC) variety original box that had two pots (I also have the test-DVI option). I adjusted the pot out in the open - whereas as I think I was later told I should have adjusted the pot near the 20 pin IC. Since I wasn't using component at the time I probably screwed that up without knowing it.

Perhaps when I get mine back I will just leave the cover on the box at this point - but just in case I would like confirmation as to which pot is VR1 (adjust for gamma) and which is VR3 (a sync on component pot - don't adjust?)
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Rolls-Royce




Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Location: Victorville, CA


PostLink    Posted: Tue Sep 30, 2008 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ralph, my EXT-HD's main board has the pot nearest the VGA connector marked VR3, and it's the one Moome had me adjust to correct my problem with the component input. It worked, so VR3 being the component sync pot is verified. The one under the ribbon cable and next to the socketed IC is marked VR1. Since we know VR3 is component sync adjustment, VR1 has to be the gamma pot, as Moome says.
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ralpharch




Joined: 02 Nov 2007
Posts: 211
Location: Derwood


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 12:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for confirming which pots are which - I did not recall seeing labels but I know now (and can see the vr3 labling on the photo I posted in other thread.
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=137708
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Rolls-Royce




Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Location: Victorville, CA


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ralph, if they didn't get a chance to check your VR3 before it was sent back to you, checking it yourself when it arrives is simplicity itself. There are 3 pins on the bottom of the pot that go through the board. Using a digital multimeter, check the resistance between the 2 outer pins. If it's less than 5Kohms, turn the pot clockwise until it is at 5Kohms, and you're done!
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ralpharch




Joined: 02 Nov 2007
Posts: 211
Location: Derwood


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for telling me how to get it set right. When I get the box back I will try it on HDMI and component and adjust as necessary.

Ralph
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Rolls-Royce




Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Location: Victorville, CA


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're welcome, Ralph. That's how my component input got screwed up. Like you, I adjusted the pot out in the open-VR3-thinking it was the gamma pot. You may be able to do the adjustment without taking the board out. There's a tiny test point right at the adjuster end of the pot. One of the pot's end pins goes through the trace that test point is on, and the other end pin goes through a large common trace-probably a ground-that has numerous small test points in it. It might be possible to make the adjustment using those test points rather than removing the board and flipping it over to get at the pins like I did. I'll check that out when I have time tomorrow and let you know.
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moome




Joined: 01 Jun 2007
Posts: 497



PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

to prevent mis-tuning the VR3, all second batch of EXT-HD replace VR3 by one resistor.
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Rolls-Royce




Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Location: Victorville, CA


PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the update, Moome.

Ralph, I'm sorry but the board has to be removed from the box to check the VR3. The test point I saw next to the VR3 adjustment screw actually goes into the same large common trace, so it'll only read 0 Ohms and not the value of the pot.

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ralpharch




Joined: 02 Nov 2007
Posts: 211
Location: Derwood


PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for feedback Royce

I just use the HDMI anyway so just will file a printout of this thread in the box in case I ever need component input. Maybe hook up the component one time to see if I even have a problem.

Those little screws were suckers to get out when I was trying to fix the power connection, so no sense going there if I don't have to.

Edit -

Got mine back from Moome - the power connection was fixed. Tried the component and it syncs/works fine - so I'm not going to fiddle with it (VR3). Don't know if Moome set it before returning it or my particular setup is not sensitive to whatever I did to the control.

Unit still has the lack of response to remote unless its powered off/back on; so I went back to powering it offreceiver. No sense challenging the power connector again.


Last edited by ralpharch on Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Rolls-Royce




Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Location: Victorville, CA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 1:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ralpharch wrote:
Thanks for feedback Royce

I just use the HDMI anyway so just will file a printout of this thread in the box in case I ever need component input. Maybe hook up the component one time to see if I even have a problem.

Those little screws were suckers to get out when I was trying to fix the power connection, so no sense going there if I don't have to.


Those screws were a bear on mine, too. Evil or Very Mad Luckily I had a new, high quality #2 Phillips bit for my screwdriver, and was able to get the screws out with it. I just have them snug now, not tight.

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Rolls-Royce




Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Location: Victorville, CA


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a further post script to this: I changed the gamma formula that I was using in CalMAN based on the recommendation of another CalMAN user, and found that adjusting the gamma pot for more boost wasn't needed. I was able to bring it right in line with the target curve with just about 3 remote clicks down from the full "up" position on the gamma control. By changing formulas, I went from an on-off contrast ratio of ~1000:1 to 36400:1 using the same 2.3 gamma target.
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moome




Joined: 01 Jun 2007
Posts: 497



PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 5:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rolls-Royce wrote:
Just a further post script to this: I changed the gamma formula that I was using in CalMAN based on the recommendation of another CalMAN user, and found that adjusting the gamma pot for more boost wasn't needed. I was able to bring it right in line with the target curve with just about 3 remote clicks down from the full "up" position on the gamma control. By changing formulas, I went from an on-off contrast ratio of ~1000:1 to 36400:1 using the same 2.3 gamma target.


thanks for feedback Royce, how you measure the contrast?
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Rolls-Royce




Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Location: Victorville, CA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, Moome. I use an X-Rite I1Pro with CalMAN software. CalMAN has an advanced grayscale calibration layout that computes on-off contrast during a grayscale run. To be honest, I had to adjust my set's gamma control and then the EXT-HD's gamma control to bring the actual luminance measurements in line with the new calculated values, but that was it. I had been using the ITU/EBU Standard gamma formula in CalMAN, but had noticed some plotting anomalies for Black in the resulting Point Gamma chart. Another user suggested I switch to CalMAN's Power formula, which more closely mimics CRT response, to fix the gamma graphing at Black. Doing this then making the gamma changes gave me that huge jump in contrast ratio plus a much punchier and 3-dimensional picture. I can't say that I ever felt the picture was "washed out" before, but it sure isn't now. Very Happy
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