HDFury2 Special Edition HDMI 1.1/1.2 to Component/RGB Converter
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Upgrade any TV/projector by adding an HDMI digital video input! Works with any TV that accepts either Component (YPbPr/YCbCr) or RGB/VGA! Don't be stuck watching Blu-ray, DVD, Satellite/Cable at only 480p! Add an HDfury2, allowing you to watch hi-def content at up to FULL HD 1080p resolution!
HDfury2 is the world smallest and most powerful HDCP deciphering converter ever built! The result is a crystal clear image that is perfectly centered (in component mode) with amazing color depth. It features VGA and Component video output, Analog & Optical sound output, and add-on accessories too (coming soon!) ...
CURTPALME.COM EXCLUSIVE! Our Special Edition HDfury2 is unique in that it is housed in an advanced 100% aluminum case (no plastic at all) with custom laser engraving. The thick aluminum case shields the unit from external noise and interference for the best image quality possible. Only available at CurtPalme.com!
Confused? Let the CurtPalme.com home theater experts help you choose the right solution for you. Email us at: HomeTheaterExperts@curtpalme.com
Why do I need HDfury2?
How old is your HDTV or projector? If it was bought prior to 2005 it does not have an HDMI input. This means that you'll never be able to use the full potential of your expensive CRT projector, digital projector, plasma display, or PC screen with new sources like the PS3, Xbox360, Blu-ray players, Cable TV / Satellite boxes, or PC graphics cards at up to 1080p FULLHD resolution.
Without an HDMI input your display will be limited to 480p in most cases - that's only 1/6th the resolution of 1080p FULLHD! You need HDfury2 to unlock the full potential of your display! Why buy an expensive new HDTV when your existing one works perfectly well? Enhance your display's compatibly and value with HDfury2!
Designed by a group of home theater videophiles, the HDfury2 delivers a razor sharp picture with unprecedented colour from HDMI sources, supporting all resolutions up to 1080p FULL HD. The picture quality improvement when using HDfury2 is immediately obvious, providing an amazingly clear and detailed picture!
Can't I just use the component output on my Blu-ray player and other devices?
No. Not without severe limitations:
Blu-ray, HD DVD, and DVD players (as well as the Xbox360 and PS3) will not upscale standard DVDs to 1080p over analog component/RGB. They are limited to 480p only. To avoid this limitation digital HDMI must be used.
If the Image Constraint Token (copy protection) is enabled on Blu-ray or HD DVD discs, all HD content is reduced from 1080p to 540p (1/5th the resolution) through analog component/RGB. To avoid this limitation digital HDMI must be used.
And most importantly: The image quality is typically significantly worse over analog component/RGB. To avoid this limitation digital HDMI must be used.
HDfury2 is what you need to to add digital HDMI to your TV to bring it into the next generation and provide the best image quality possible!
Will HDfury2 work for me?
1. Does your display support at least one of the following resolutions: 480i, 480p, 576i, 576p, 720p,1080i or 1080p?
2. Does your display have a Component or RGB (PC/VGA) input connector? (some examples shown below)
If you answer YES to both questions then HDfury2 will work for you!
User Manual / Installation Guides:
The HDfury2 user manual / installation guide can be found here.
A Playstation 3 / HDfury setup guide can be found here.
A guide to updating your HDfury2 EDID (limiting the resolution support) can be found here.
Component (YPbPr/YCbCr) and VGA (RGBHV) video output
Sound output in both Analog and digital Optical (S/PDIF) through an innovative 3.5mm combo jack
The HDfury2 also includes many first time world exclusive features:
Perfectly centered image in all standard NTSC/PAL component modes (see below)
Performs Colour Depth Upscaling in all modes (see below)
Automatic separate SD/HD color-space selection
Accept third party accessories on its output
Lowest power consumption of any converter
Software upgradeable (EDID and Firmware) to never become obsolete!
Custom profiling to match any display requirements or to limit output resolution
Screen position adjustment through firmware
Smaller and is able to handle and include more technology innovations than the original HDfury
Colour Depth Upscaling:
A world first! HDfury2 accepts both digital RGB and component (YCbCr) video over HDMI and automatically processes both correctly for zero loss of dynamic range. HDfury2 takes this HDMI standard 16-235 data and cleverly scales it to a fully maximized output dynamic range (0-255) before sending it out to the final DAC conversion stage. The result is an absolutely stunning and dynamic picture!
Technical details: Component (YCbCr) is sent in a standard 16-235 code range in the HDMI domain. Most other converters simply output this exact same range but in analog form. These other converters basically feed code 16 to the DAC when black is requested and 235 when white is requested. However, DACs do not automatically comply to video standards resulting in code 16 translating into 44mV and 235 into 645mV (if 700mV is the full range) and while black or white crush does not occur, these converters limit the dynamic range resulting in a less than optimal picture. This is highly noticeable when you compare full range (0-255) vs. limited range (16-235).
Perfectly centered image in component mode:
Another world first! HDfury2 is the only device that recreates the sync and timing alignment completely and therefore perfectly centers the image according to the SMPTE standards in all component modes (when set to RGB output the signal is simply passed through unchanged). This is a major difference in the architecture. No other converter can compete against recreating the syncs completely.
Technical details: RGB as defined by CEA861A/B/C/D specification defines the leading edge of HSyncs at different locations than the SMPTE/ITU standard does for component (YPbPr). This is why ALL but one direct RGB to component converters fail to correctly center the picture. Others disregard time-domain correction placing the image too far "left" on the screen. This is the reason why people using the original HDfury coupled with a typical stand alone converter fail even though the original HDfury is not doing anything "incorrectly". It simply passes information which will be interpreted incorrectly by many TVs. As well, while less important (but still missing from other converters), HDfury2 outputs tri-level syncs in all HD modes as required by standards. Again, no standalone RGB-converter does this. We have never come across or heard from a customer of a TV that requires tri level sync but still it's nice to meet the spec and be able to claim compliance.
How does the HDfury2 compare to the original HDfury?
Data processor:
HDfury2: 11 bit, 200 Mhz
Original HDfury: 10 bit, 175 Mhz
Input:
HDfury2: HDMI based (DVI-D compatible)
Original HDfury: DVI-D based (HDMI compatible)
Output:
HDfury2: User Selectable Component or RGBHV
Original HDfury: RGBHV
Sound Output?
HDfury2: YES, Both Analog & Digital Optical (S/PDIF)
Original HDfury: NO
Automatic image centering?
HDfury2: YES, in all component modes
Original HDfury: NO
Colour depth upscaling?
HDfury2: YES, in all modes
Original HDfury: NO
Lower power consumption:
HDfury2: YES
Original HDfury: NO
Software upgradeable?
HDfury2: YES, Both firmware (specialized tool required) and EDID
Original HDfury: YES, EDID only
Screen position adjustable via firmware?
HDfury2: YES
Original HDfury: NO
Output resolution limit and custom profiling?
HDfury2: YES
Original HDfury: NO
Technology:
HDfury2: 6 layer high density class 5 PCB
Original HDfury: 4 layer mid density class 5 PCB
The HDfury2 solves all of the original HDfury issues, including:
Some source devices have issues handshaking with DVI-D (hdcp) devices such as the original HDfury, requiring the use of an HDMI switch between the source and the original HDfury. SOLVED! HDfury2 uses an HDMI input instead of DVI-D (hdcp) granting compatibility with all HDMI sources including those that could not handshake properly with DVI-D (hdcp) devices.
Some sources like the Denon 4308 receiver could not handshake with an incomplete CEA861 EDID extension block causing issues with the original HDfury. SOLVED! The HDFury2 CEA861 EDID extension block is compliant to latest Rev. D.
The picture is shifted to the left on some displays when using the original HDfury and it could not be centered within the display's adjustment range. Use of external device such as RTC2200 or Box 1020 was needed. SOLVED! HDFury2 is the world's first converter to perfectly center the image at all resolutions in component mode. No other converter does this as the others simply pass the original signal through.
Some sources do not output enough current on their digital output. Use of external power supply was needed for the original HDfury (either Wall Plug or USB). SOLVED! HDFury2 consumes 160mA less current while running at 1080p compare to the original HDfury. HDfury2 supports more sources out of the box without requiring the use of the power supply. We do however recommend always using the power supply. Our experience has been that you'll get a more reliable setup with better image quality (especially if you use the GammaX Gamma Boost product) as most source devices simply do not provide enough power to run the HDfury2 (more in our FAQ below).
Some users reported their original HDfury ran "hot" after many hours of use. SOLVED! HDFury2 unit runs 1.2w cooler at 1080p than the original HDfury.
The original HDfury is unable to run long analog cables on its output. ex: Displays with VGA cords is problematic. SOLVED! HDFury2 can run longer analog cables on its output (to approximately 25-35 feet).
Hard to identify when the power supply is required for the original HDfury (some source devices do not provide enough current). SOLVED! HDFury2 has a new LED system which indicates power status: If the LED is OFF or blinking then the HDFury2 is not receiving enough power from the source device and the external HDFury2 power supply must be used. If the LED is ON the HDFury2 is receiving adequate power. Most source devices do not supply adequate power. It is best to always use the power supply.
HDfury2 Specifications:
INPUT: Digital HDMI 19p FEMALE Port (100% digital)
OUTPUT: Analog RGBHV or Component (YPbPr/YCbCr) via HD-15 D-Sub (VGA style) MALE connector
Supports *ANY* resolution and refresh rate in RGB mode up to 1920x1080 at 60Hz. Includes all of the popular HDTV resolutions including: 480i/480p/576i/576p/720p/1080i/1080p48/50/60
Supports the following HDTV resolutions in component mode: 480i/480p/576i/576p/720p/1080i/1080p48/50/60 compatible
User Selectable RGBHV / Component (YPbPr/YCbCr) output with a switch
A HDMI -> HDMI cable is used to connect to an HDMI source
RGB 4:4:4 (8 bits) digital input
YCbCr 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 digital input
Compatible with non-HDCP (DVI-D) or HDCP sources
Compatible with any RGB Display
Compatible with any YUV Display
Directly connects to a display's VGA (RGB) 15 pin D-sub input
Directly connects to a display's Component (YPbPr/YCbCr) input using included breakout cable
Takes less then 1 minute to install (Plug & Play)
11bit 200MHz data processing
Triple 11bit 200Mhz video DAC
RGB-H/V Male Port D-SUB 15 Output video analog signals (0.7Vpp (RGB) / 1Vpp (YPbPr) over 75 ohms impedance)
Ultra short Analog links (<1 cm) on the HDfury2 for optimal quality
HDMI video bandwidth: 25-165MHz
HDMI Data Rate - Bandwidth 1.5 Gbit/sec (Single link)
Supports all HD/SDTV formats from 1080p down to 480i
Satellite and Cable set-top box compatible for HDTV
HDMI or DVI-D video graphics card compatible
HDCP compatible with embedded keys loaded
Energy management : DVI and VESA DPMS compatible
Ultra low power consumption in Standby (3,5mA)
Maximum power : 0.37A under 5V (at 1080p/60)
On-board DC/DC converter (1.8V) with extra-low EMI signature
Power +5V from DVI/HDMI
Blue LED to display active digital link and power status
Small size : 75x56mm cabinet
100% ROHS compliant (Restriction of Hazardous Substances Directive)
Installation: The HDfury2 module may be DIRECTLY screwed to the back of the display into the VGA SUB-D plug.
Shortest RGB and Component (YPbPr) analog video link as possible.
HDCP rules compliant: No end-user access to decrypted analog video. Once screwed, this module becomes "a part of the display itself".
Professional factory made (mass-production) using pick/place and reflow/wave solder pro equipment.
Gold Plated connectors, tracks and material
Full aluminium case with thermal dissipation
Optional +5v input and power supply
EDID detective feature: EDID eprom can be reprogrammed using a computer through the graphics card (feature
reserved for professionals)
Internal EDID EEPROM with complete CEA861 extension block
One year warranty
What's included with your HDfury2?
Absolutely everything you need is included. You won't need to find any of the expensive extras to get up and running. Our kits include:
Component Extender Cable: For displays with standard RCA female component (YPbPr) input. Included with every order.
RGB Extender Cable: For displays with an RGB (VGA) input. The Basic Kit gives you a choice of one of three RGB cables, the Advanced Kit includes all three (useful if you may need more than one or don't know which to order):
1. BLUE (VGA to VGA male cable): For displays with a standard female HD15 VGA connector. Used by most displays with an RGBHV input.
2. GREEN (VGA to 5-BNC male cable): For displays with 5-BNC input connectors. Used by most professional displays with an RGBHV input.
3. RED (VGA to Barco Port 3 cable): For Barco CRT projector Port 3 DB9 inputs. More info on Barco Port 3.
If your display only has component inputs you will not use the RGB Cable so it doesn't matter which you order. If your display has 5 RCA style connectors order the GREEN cable and use five BNC to RCA adapters (sold separately).
Power Supply (wall plug): Available in US, Euro, and UK configurations. A power supply is included with all our kits as most source devices do not supply adequate power to run the HDfury2. The Advanced Kit also includes a power supply for the GammaX.
6' USB 5V cable: An extra cable that can be used to supply power to the HDfury2 from any USB port if using the regular power supply is not convenient. (Useful if the HDfury2 is used with a PC or PS3).
(ADVANCED KIT ONLY) GammaX converter: On most TVs and projectors, movies and games are too dark or missing detail in dark scenes. Gamma-X to fixes this by adding a 'Gamma Boost' without washing out the picture. Simply plug the Gamma-X directly into the HDfury2, HDfury, HDfury Gamer Edition, or any device with RGB output and enjoy a more vibrant picture with perfect shadow details! More information
(ADVANCED KIT ONLY) 6' HDMI cable: For connecting your source device to the HDfury2.
(ADVANCED KIT ONLY) Optical audio cable: A mini-Toslink to regular Toslink/SPDIF (fiber optic) cable for connecting the HDfury2 sound output to your TV if you don't have a receiver/pre-amp.
HDFury2 FAQ
Why do i need HD (720p) or Full HD (1080p)?
Blu-Ray players, HDMI graphic cards, PS3, Xbox 360 Elite are all able to unleash their true potential (720p/1080p mode) only through the HDMI output. If you want a valid ticket to the Full HD world you either need a compatible display (with HDMI input) or an HDfury2 for your existing display. 1080p FULLHD as found on Blu-ray and HD has over 6 times the resolution as standard DVD and TV. For the best movie and and home theater experience, you *need* Blu-ray/HD.
Why do i need a HDCP compliant display?
HDMI is a new standard that comes with a form of hardware protection called HDCP. If your display doesn't have a HDMI input you won't be able to display 720p/1080p signal on it (from HDMI sources). Prior to exchanging Video data, the HDMI source exchanges HDCP keys with HDMI display. Both devices have a special HDCP chip embedded. If your display doesn't include an HDCP chip, even if it's technically able to display 720p or 1080p signal, it will display a BLACK SCREEN. On some devices (ex: Playstation3, Xbox360) 1080p mode is only available through the HDMI output!
Does the HDfury2 change the resolution? Upconvert or downcovert?
The HDfury2 does not change the resolution or refresh rate in any way. It converts the digital input signal to an analog RGBHV (VGA) or Component (YPbPr) signal. It also provides HDCP decryption if needed. The HDfury2 outputs whatever resolution you feed it.
What resolutions does the HDfury2 support?
The HDfury2 supports any resolution/refresh rate combination (interlaced or progressive) up to 1080p/60Hz. The only limitation is that your display must support the resolution/refresh rate as well.
I use component cables to connect my Blu-Ray or DVD player to my display device and it works just fine! Why do I need HDfury2?
Blu-Ray and many DVD players can also upconvert standard definition DVDs to higher resolutions (720p, 1080i, 1080p), but they only do this via the HDMI outputs (not component). So if you want to get the higher resolution benefits of your player's upconversion circuitry, you're forced to use HDMI. As well, in the future it may not be possible to pass certain high definition content over component video cables. A content flag called the ICT (Image Constraint Token) allows broadcasters and movie studios to limit or "down-res" the HD video signal to standard definition 480P resolution over component video cables. This is not something that has been activated yet, but it could be used at some point in the future. And the most important reason to use HDfury2: The picture quality is substantially better! (Sharper/cleaner/less noise/less ringing/etc). Talk to someone who uses one or read the reviews!
My display has composite (ie: combined) sync with only 4 BNC inputs not 5. (Examples: Barco 7xx/Cine7 or Ampro). What cable do I order? How do I hook it up?
Order the GREEN (5-BNC breakout cable) and combine the H/V sync lines using a $2 BNC T-connector like this. You could also use an Extron 109 or 202 box as well to combine the two sync lines.
My Barco requires negative sync to work. Does the HDfury2 output negative sync?
The HDfury2 does not alter the signal that it is fed in any way. If it is fed a negative sync signal, it will output a negative sync signal. If it is fed a positive sync signal, it will output a positive sync signal. You can use boxes from Extron or Altinex to invert the sync if required. To alter the sync to make it work with your projector, you can add an RTC2200 box or GammaX Gamma Boost product to your HDfury2 setup.
I have a scaler or doubler with DVI or HDMI inputs and an RGBHV output connected to my display device. I don't need an HDfury2 right?
Incorrect. You still need the HDfury2 if you want to use HDMI sources such as Blu-Ray or DVD players that may have HDCP-protected content. The scaler, by law, is not allowed to output content via RGB if the source content is HDCP protected. The scaler will simply TURN OFF its analog RGB output. Only the digital DVI/HDMI outputs will remain on. To solve this, connect the HDfury2 to the DVI or HDMI output of your scaler, and then connect the HDfury2 to your display device. Simple!
I have a scaler or doubler with DVI or HDMI inputs and a DVI/HDMI output connected to my display device's DVI or HDMI input. I don't need an HDfury2 right?
Maybe. You still need the HDfury2 if you want to use HDMI sources such as Blu-Ray or DVD players that may have HDCP-protected content *and* your display device does not have an HDMI input. The scaler, by law, must pass the HDCP-protected content all the way to your display device. The display device must decrypt the content. If your display device only has a DVI input, it will not decode HDCP. To solve this, connect the HDfury2 to the DVI or HDMI output of your scaler, and then connect the HDfury2 to your display device. Simple!
I want to connect a longer cable to the output of the HDfury2. Can I do that?
Yes. The HDfury2 supports analog output cables up to 25-35 feet in length.
Does the HDfury2 support 24fps found in next generation Blu-Ray and HD DVD players?
Yes! While the HDfury1 does not, the HDfury2 does support 24fps. With cathodic displays such as CRT projectors or CRT based RPTVs or tube TVs, 24fps is too low of a frequency. The image will flicker like crazy and will not be watchable. You must turn off 24fps support in the source when using a CRT based display. You can however use 24fps on a plasma or LCD display and it will be displayed nicely using the HDfury2!
Note however that that most displays that do not have HDMI inputs do not work at 24 Hz however. Make sure to set your source devices to 50 or 60 Hz output and not 24 frames (Hz) or "Automatic".
Will the HDfury2 shift the image to the left or cropped (cut off) in any way like some other converters?
No. Unlike some of the other converters, the HDfury2 includes advanced features to ensure that at all display resolutions, the image stays perfectly centered (in component mode) and not cropped in any way for any display device. In RGB mode the image is passed directly through so make sure your display has image shifting controls if RGB is to be used.
My display only has component (YPbPr) inputs. Does the HDfury2 support component output?
Yes! Unlike the original HDfury, HDfury2 has a user selectable Component (YPbPr) or VGA (RGBHV) output to ensure that it will work with any display device.
My projector or display device has a 3-prong power cable with a ground [earth] pin. I've bypassed the the ground pin. Is this a problem?
YES! Not only is this very dangerous to you (the homeowner) you may damage your HDfury2 and/or your display. Your HDfury2 warranty is null and void if you bypass the grounding of your display device. Please do not do this! Bypassing ground pins because of ground loop problems, hum problems, or other reasons is very dangerous and only masks the problem. You need to fix the source of the problem. The ground pin is there for your safety and for the safety of your equipment.
I need an HDMI cable. Can you recommend one? Blue Jeans Cables make good quality thicker HDMI cables with good shielding (for less loss over long runs).
I can only get lower resolutions to work. When I set my source to high resolutions like 1080p I don't get an image!
(1) Your source device likely doesn't provide enough power to the HDfury2. Make sure to use the included HDfury2 power supply and ensure that your display supports 1080p FULLHD if you want to use 1080p.
(2) Many TVs do not support 1080p and must be fed a 1080i signal instead. Make sure to set your source to 1080i unless your display's manual specifically states that it supports 1080p.
The picture is blank! I don't get an image at all from my PS3, Blu-ray player, or other source!
(1) Make sure your display supports the resolution the source is feeding it. If your TV does not support 1080p, set your sources to 1080i. Some sources will automatically use the highest resolution available to them based on what they see connected, and since they see the HDfury2 which supports 1080p FULL HD, the source will 'think' you have a 1080p capable TV and is most likely feeding the HDfury2 a 1080p signal. You need to lower this to 1080i in the source device.
(2) Make sure that the 24fps output option in the source device is set to OFF or DISABLED and not AUTOMATIC unless your TV specifically supports 24fps. Most do not, especially older TVs that do not have HDMI inputs.
(3) Make sure you're using the HDfury2 power supply.
I'm still getting a black screen from my PS3 when using the HDfury2. How can I fix this?
The problem is that you likely connected the HDfury2 to the HDMI port while the PS3 was still setup to output by another port (component or composite). The result is no picture over HDMI. The PS3 will output low resolution on every output when you reset the display settings this way: PS3 in stand by mode, hold on power for 5 sec until you heard 3 beeps.
The PS3 restarts and you can than access low resolution through both HDMI and/or other ports and perform the display test to choose your preferred resolution.
On my PS3 I can see the menu, play games and blu-ray discs, but I get a blank screen or an out of range error message when I play a DVD
You need to change a setting in your PS3: In addition to setting up the HDMI resolution on the PS3 as outlined above, you also have to go under the Blu-Ray playback settings and adjust the DVD upscale feature because by default it will also be 1080p. Another hint: When you first connect an HDfury device to the PS3 (such as the original HDfury, HDfury Gamer Edition, or the HDFury2) the PS3 will ask: "A new HDMI device has been detected, do you want to use it?" Answer 'YES' ONLY if your TV is 1080p capable. Otherwise answer 'NO', and you will be presented with another screen where you will be able to change the resolution settings and set them manually to whatever your TV supports.
My Sony G90 CRT projector looks funny when I use the HDfury2
Go into the G90 service menu "Input Setting" with the fury installed and set the "Clamp" to HP or H/C from auto. This should straighten out the picture if it is varying in brightness and getting weird bands of dark as scenes change.
My picture 'blanks out' from time to time when using the HDfury2. Why is this happening?
Some of the very early HDfury2 units had a defect and these units were replaced. To determine if the issue is with the HDfury2 or elsewhere, use the following logic:
- If the HDfury2 blue LED is OFF during the picture blanking, the problem is with the HDfury2 or the power supply. We will replace them for you.
- If the HDfury2 blue LED is ON during the picture blanking, the problem is with the the component (YUV) cable, RGB cable or the display.
My picture is all green! What's going on?
You likely have a display that only accepts RGB and you have the switch on the side of the HDfury2 set to component output (YUV). Switch it to RGB.
What sort of power supply does the HDfury2 use? When is it needed?
While the HDfury2 can draw power from the HDMI line, our experience has been that most devices simply do not supply enough power so an external power supply is needed. This is why all of the CurtPalme.com HDfury2 kits come with a power supply by default. An extra power supply for the HDfury2 may be ordered on the HDfury2 order page. If you want to source your own, the power supply must adhere to these requirements:
- Provide REGULATED (+/- 5%) 5VDC power with 0.5A min DC current
- Deliver the power through a small 0.65mm diameter center pin / 2.6mm outer diameter DC plug (like the one often used in cellular phone AC adaptor)
- Provide the correct polarity with 'plus' on the OUTER part of the plug and 'minus' (ground) on the small center pin of the DC jack.
Trying to use an AC/DC adaptor that doesn't adhere to these three requirements may destroy the HDFury2.
Why don't all HDMI source devices provide enough power to run the HDfury2 properly?
At maximum resolution (1080p/60Hz) the HDFury2 requires 370mA of current to function correctly (more if the GammaX is also used in conjunction with the HDfury2). The HDfury2 can be powered by the HDMI cable, however the HDMI standard states that it HDMI should provide 'at least 50mA and at max 500mA'. This means the manufacturers are not required to provide more than 50mA of current on their HDMI outputs which is not enough to power the HDfury2. Less current means cheaper manufacturing costs which means that 99% of manufacturers opt to just meet the requirement of 50mA. Therefore most sources are close to the lower end at 50mA and very few are near the upper end at 500mA (PS3/Xbox360). This is why it is always recommended that the HDfury2 power supply by used in all setups other than when running directly from a PS3 or Xbox360. This is why all CurtPalme.com HDfury2 kits come with the much needed power supply.
The HDfury1, HDfury2, and GammaX power supplies all look the same. Are they interchangeable?
Yes. The power supply shipped with our HDfury1, HDfury2, and GammaX kits are all the same.
I couldn't get the original HDfury1 to work with my Dell 2405FPW display because the Dell doesn't like HD resolutions. Will the HDfury2 work?
Yes. The HDfury2 supports the Dell 2405FPW display up to 1080i as long as you use the component input. 1080i is also 1920x1080 resolution just like 1080p so your are sending your TV a Full-HD resolution.
My display is RGB only (no component input) and I don't have any image adjustments to compensate for image shifting. What can I do?
Do have an RGB only display and are experiencing image shifting and can't compensate with your display adjustment? Your solution is to set the HDfury2 to component output and plug it into a Box1040 or leave the HDFury2 in RGB mode and use the Box1020. Both will provide image alignment along with other features such as a cable driver, gamma boost, and switching.
My picture is blank when I play back Blu-ray discs but not when I play DVDs. What's going on??
Blu-ray discs are natively 1080p/24Hz. You likely have your Blu-ray player set to 24Hz or "Automatic" frame rate output so that it is outputting a 24 Hz (fps) signal. Most displays that do not have HDMI inputs do not work at 24 Hz so you need to turn this off. Either set your Blu-ray player to 50 or 60Hz or set 'Automatic Frame Rate' to off. See your Blu-ray manual.
Do I need to use the sound output on the HDfury2?
No. The audio output of the HDfury2 is only meant as a convenience feature if you do not have a home theater receiver or preamp with separate speakers. The HDFury2 does not support 5.1 or 7.1 sound, only stereo (2 channels). If all you have are the speakers in your TV you can use the 2-channel audio output of the HDfury2 as a covenient way to feed audio directly into your TV without having to run separate (possibly long) audio cables from the source to your TV as in many setups the HDfury2 will be plugged right into the TV. This way you only need to run one HDMI cable to the TV and then use a short audio cable from the HDfury2 to the TV sound input. Anyone with a home theater receiver/pre-amp and separate speakers should instead connect their source devices directly to the receiver/pre-amp and not use the HDfury2 sound output. In other words, there is no need to use the audio features of the HDfury2 with a home theater setup. If 5.1/7.1 is required, consider the HDfury3.
How do I hook up the audio from the HDfury2?
The HDFury2 has both analog and digital (TOSLINK) audio output. It's a 2-in-1 connector meaning that you can plug in either a 3.5mm stereo analog jack or a digital mini-TOLINK (3.5mm mini-jack) cable and get stereo sound out of the HDfury2. See further below for pictures of both types of connectors/cables.
The audio output of the HDfury2 gets all distorted after a while. What's wrong?
The HDfury2 only supports 2 channel audio up to 192Khz sampling rate per channel. It does not support 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound. Only stereo. You've got the sound output set to multi-channel (more than 2) on your source device. While passing more channels may seem to work the sound will get distorted after a while. For multi-channel home theater setups connect your source devices directly to your receiver or pre-amp (see previous question). If 5.1/7.1 is required, consider the HDfury3.
My screen is all pink/purple or has weird colours on it. What's wrong?
There is a switch on the side of the HDfury2 for selecting RGB or YUV (component) video output. Flick the switch on the side back and forth once or twice. It may have gotten slightly stuck in between the RGB and YUV (component) mode. You may also be in the wrong mode for your TV type. If you're using the component breakout cable and have it plugged into the Y/Pb/Pr component input on your TV you must set the switch to YUV (component). If you're using the RED, GREEN, or BLUE RGB cable then you must set the switch to RGB.
HDfury2 Pictures, Videos, Screenshots:
Exclusive CurtPalme.com Special Edition HDfury2 with 100% aluminum (all metal) casing and special engraving:
What's inside the Exclusive CurtPalme.com Special Edition HDfury2:
Inside the HDfury2 (front):
Inside the HDfury2 (back):
HDfury2 US power supply (wall plug). Required if the HDMI cable is longer than 5m (16 feet) or if the source device is unable to supply adequate power. (The power supply uses the USB 5V cable to connect to the HDfury2):
HDfury2 EURO power supply (wall plug):
HDfury2 UK power supply (wall plug):
HDfury2 6' USB 5V cable. Another way to supply power to the HDfury2 directly from a USB port found on a PC, PS3, etc. Required if the HDMI cable is longer than 5m (16 feet) or if the source device is unable to supply adequate power:
HDfury2 3.5mm mini-TOSLINK digital audio cable. Useful for connecting the HDFury2 to a TV if you don't have a home theater setup (you only have 2 speakers in your TV). For home theater setups do not use the audio output of the HDfury2. Instead, connect your sources directly to your receiver or pre-amp. This cable is included in our HDFury2 Advanced Kit.
3.5mm Mini-TOSLINK to regular TOSLINK adapter (not included). A "regular" TOSLINK cable can be used too by using one of these little adapters.
3.5mm stereo audio cable (not included). Useful for connecting the HDFury2 to a TV if you don't have a home theater setup (you only have 2 speakers in your TV). For home theater setups do not use the audio output of the HDfury2. Instead, connect your sources directly to your receiver or pre-amp.
HDfury2 Recommended Add-ons:
Need to hook up more than one HDMI device to your HDfury2? Use the 3x1 Smart HDMI Switch!
On most TVs and projectors, movies and games are too dark or missing detail in dark scenes. GammaX to fixes this by adding a 'Gamma Boost' without washing out the picture. Simply plug the GammaX directly into the HDfury2 and enjoy a more vibrant picture with perfect shadow details!
Click [HERE] to order your CurtPalme.com Special Edition HDfury2 today!
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Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:34 am Post subject:
"Colour Space Conversion:"
I would not call it that as it does not convert any color space at all.
Maybe dynamic range scaling or luma range conversion.
Most just call it TV scale to PC scale conversion. (16-235 to 0-255)
"Automatically switches color-spaces for both HDTV (Rec.709) and SDTV (Rec.601)"
Not sure what you mean here. _________________ SNR of people are ridiculously low.
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 1:21 pm Post subject:
Quote:
Perfectly centered image in all standard NTSC/PAL modes (see below)
Will this solve the problems with 1080p-resolutions having too wide porches to display correctly on CRT-projectors?
I was never able to fill the screen with 1080p coming from my HDDVD player (and with my XBOX 360, but that is VGA).
Joined: 27 May 2007 Posts: 1510 Location: Taiwan / France
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:12 pm Post subject:
WTS wrote:
Hi,
What does this mean "HDMI 1.3 interoperable" ?
Thanx for your interrest in HDfury² ! That means it works with ANY HDMI revision available till NOW and more likely all those upcoming , nothing special here. Just the usual windows dressing specs list.
Joined: 27 May 2007 Posts: 1510 Location: Taiwan / France
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:18 pm Post subject:
David_Web wrote:
"Colour Space Conversion:"
I would not call it that as it does not convert any color space at all.
Maybe dynamic range scaling or luma range conversion.
Most just call it TV scale to PC scale conversion. (16-235 to 0-255).
Nice to hear from you again david !
Well we called it UPSCALE earlier and we later felt that CONVERSION would be better.
Finally we will let the users decide how to call it as this and "picture centering" are unique/exclusive features.
May be just wait till you see it performing in front of you to decide how to call it !
Quote:
"Automatically switches color-spaces for both HDTV (Rec.709) and SDTV (Rec.601)"
Not sure what you mean here
Basically, the exact same thing ! This is the technical behind "Colour Space Conversion"
"Detection of incoming type/Selection of incoming type/Conversion of incoming type"
Joined: 27 May 2007 Posts: 1510 Location: Taiwan / France
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:27 pm Post subject:
Bert Randolph wrote:
Quote:
Perfectly centered image in all standard NTSC/PAL modes (see below)
Will this solve the problems with 1080p-resolutions having too wide porches to display correctly on CRT-projectors?
I was never able to fill the screen with 1080p coming from my HDDVD player (and with my XBOX 360, but that is VGA).
Thanks,
Daniel.
Yes Bert, EXACTLY ! It's made to solve the PORCH issue/LEFT shift issue.
It was one of the biggest feature/dream that we had on our wish list when development started and it's now a REALITY ! _________________ HDFury3 - Tomorrow's Hardware Today ! - HDF3 User Manual HDFury2 - HDF2 User Manual HDFury1 - TV coverage (by Tekzilla)
Project manager:HDfury1, HDfury2, and HDfury3 - Don't have a DVI/HDMI input on your projector or TV? Add one today!
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:41 pm Post subject:
The point is that I object to the use of "color space" when there is no such thing involved.
TV scale to PC scale conversion (16-235 to 0-255)
is really the best way to call it. As it is exactly what it is from what I can read in the description.
Maybe luma range conversion as I said earlier.
"Automatically switches color-spaces for both HDTV (Rec.709) and SDTV (Rec.601)"
Both SD and HD have been using 16-235 from what I have seen, so...
I just want you to understand what you are saying so there is no misconception later on.
I'm not knocking anything about HDFury2 I just want to make sure the specs are correct. _________________ SNR of people are ridiculously low.
Joined: 27 May 2007 Posts: 1510 Location: Taiwan / France
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 5:56 pm Post subject:
David_Web wrote:
The point is that I object to the use of "color space" when there is no such thing involved..
Initially you said something about UPSCALE / CONVERSION ? no ?
Now it's "color space" the problem ? or let's define it otherwise !
Quote:
TV scale to PC scale conversion (16-235 to 0-255)
is really the best way to call it. As it is exactly what it is from what I can read in the description.
Maybe luma range conversion as I said earlier.
Yeah may be, does it make sense for others ?
Quote:
"Automatically switches color-spaces for both HDTV (Rec.709) and SDTV (Rec.601)"
Both SD and HD have been using 16-235 from what I have seen, so...
so...IF BOTH are 16-235 instead of limiting your output to 16-235 and missing 0 to 15 and 236 to 255 (0 is blacker than 16 and 255 is whiter than 235)
HDfury2 will ADD COLOR DEPTH to your picture by TRANSLATING (call it what ever you want) 16-235 range to 0 to 255
The results is MORE COLOR !
Quote:
I just want you to understand what you are saying so there is no misconception later on.
WOOOW !
Thanx for your offer but i don't need any third party advise to understand what I'm saying !
Quote:
I'm not knocking anything about HDFury2 I just want to make sure the specs are correct.
Your dedication to the purpose is honorable
Finally this is not really important, what really counts are the words and reviews that will get from those who gonna experience the sequel ! Call it what ever you want, the point is the Picture Quality, does it bring a visiual improvement to your picture VS any others converters or not ? _________________ HDFury3 - Tomorrow's Hardware Today ! - HDF3 User Manual HDFury2 - HDF2 User Manual HDFury1 - TV coverage (by Tekzilla)
Project manager:HDfury1, HDfury2, and HDfury3 - Don't have a DVI/HDMI input on your projector or TV? Add one today!
Last edited by HKmod on Thu Aug 14, 2008 8:16 pm; edited 2 times in total
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:10 pm Post subject:
Quote:
The black level (brightness) on my display device is constantly changing causing dark and light scenes to change in black level. How do I fix it?
Your display device may have poor black level clamping and you will therefore see this problem with any source device with or without the HDfury2. If you have a way of adjusting it, try to adjust the 'Clamp' setting of your display to 'H/C' (horizontal/composite sync) mode rather than 'Auto'. Not all displays will have this setting. Many consumer displays will have this hidden in a service menu.
What's stated above indicates that the HDfury2 does NOT fix the flashing that happens in nearly all Pioneer RPTVs. If thats true, then its probably time to look for a new TV as I do not want to venture into the Service Menu as quite frankly, I wouldnt know what the hell I'd be doing in there.
Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1523 Location: Northern Virginia
TV/Projector: Marquee 9500LC, Sony 1271, Sony 1252
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:12 pm Post subject:
HKmod wrote:
WOOOW !
Thanx for your offer but i don't need any third party advise to understand what I'm saying ! Mr. Green
Sorry, but you do, because you're "saying" it wrong. The term color space refers ONLY to standards such as Rec. 601, 709, or with computer images color spaces such as SRGB, Adobe RGB, etc. All of these color "spaces" are a subset of all possible colors...thus "space" not "depth".
Color "Depth" usually refers to bit depth, and you're much closer on this one. 8 bit color can represent 256 levels, 10 and 12 bit much more. Really, I think you should market as "extended dynamic range" or similar, because that's what it's doing.
Joined: 27 May 2007 Posts: 1510 Location: Taiwan / France
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 7:17 pm Post subject:
CRT_Ben wrote:
HKmod wrote:
WOOOW !
Thanx for your offer but i don't need any third party advise to understand what I'm saying ! Mr. Green
Sorry, but you do, because you're "saying" it wrong. The term color space refers ONLY to standards such as Rec. 601, 709, or with computer images color spaces such as SRGB, Adobe RGB, etc. All of these color "spaces" are a subset of all possible colors...thus "space" not "depth".
Color "Depth" usually refers to bit depth, and you're much closer on this one. 8 bit color can represent 256 levels, 10 and 12 bit much more. Really, I think you should market as "extended dynamic range" or similar, because that's what it's doing.
Sorry but i'm not, i understand what i'm saying, i guess this is not the purpose of this discussion.
(i could say that IF "The term color space refers ONLY to standards such as Rec. 601, 709" then COLOR SPACE UPSCALING OR CONVERSION OR TRANSLATING "could" WORK BECAUSE WE REFER to 601/709 "IF BOTH are 16-235 instead of limiting your output to 16-235 and missing 0 to 15 and 236 to 255 (0 is blacker than 16 and 255 is whiter than 235)
HDfury2 will ADD MORE COLOR to your picture by ??? 16-235 range to 0 to 255
> i'm not going further this way because it will "end up in an endless loop."
I will rather listen to your suggestions... so the purpose is to get the right designation and it should be right and understandable by technical AND NO technical guys (priority to the second !), and here you just give another entry to the competition:
"extended dynamic range" anyone loves that one ? (personally i prefer this one than "TV scale to PC scale conversion (16-235 to 0-255) ")
But you decide (i mean, ALL OF YOU) not me !
I also find this one revelant "dynamic range scaling"
Joined: 27 May 2007 Posts: 1510 Location: Taiwan / France
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 7:28 pm Post subject:
Diehardfan wrote:
Quote:
The black level (brightness) on my display device is constantly changing causing dark and light scenes to change in black level. How do I fix it?
Your display device may have poor black level clamping and you will therefore see this problem with any source device with or without the HDfury2. If you have a way of adjusting it, try to adjust the 'Clamp' setting of your display to 'H/C' (horizontal/composite sync) mode rather than 'Auto'. Not all displays will have this setting. Many consumer displays will have this hidden in a service menu.
What's stated above indicates that the HDfury2 does NOT fix the flashing that happens in nearly all Pioneer RPTVs. If thats true, then its probably time to look for a new TV as I do not want to venture into the Service Menu as quite frankly, I wouldnt know what the hell I'd be doing in there.
No, this is simply taken from HDF1 FAQ.
If you want to be sure that HDfury² will rock on Pioneer RPTV, just try it ! (you don't need to keep it if it doesn't bring you the best picture quality you ever saw on your RPTV !) _________________ HDFury3 - Tomorrow's Hardware Today ! - HDF3 User Manual HDFury2 - HDF2 User Manual HDFury1 - TV coverage (by Tekzilla)
Project manager:HDfury1, HDfury2, and HDfury3 - Don't have a DVI/HDMI input on your projector or TV? Add one today!
Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1523 Location: Northern Virginia
TV/Projector: Marquee 9500LC, Sony 1271, Sony 1252
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 8:56 pm Post subject:
HKmod wrote:
Sorry but i'm not, i understand what i'm saying, i guess this is not the purpose of this discussion.
(i could say that IF "The term color space refers ONLY to standards such as Rec. 601, 709" then COLOR SPACE UPSCALING OR CONVERSION OR TRANSLATING "could" WORK BECAUSE WE REFER to 601/709 "IF BOTH are 16-235 instead of limiting your output to 16-235 and missing 0 to 15 and 236 to 255 (0 is blacker than 16 and 255 is whiter than 235)
HDfury2 will ADD MORE COLOR to your picture by ??? 16-235 range to 0 to 255
> i'm not going further this way because it will "end up in an endless loop."
I will rather listen to your suggestions... so the purpose is to get the right designation and it should be right and understandable by technical AND NO technical guys (priority to the second !), and here you just give another entry to the competition:
"extended dynamic range" anyone loves that one ? (personally i prefer this one than "TV scale to PC scale conversion (16-235 to 0-255) ")
But you decide (i mean, ALL OF YOU) not me !
I also find this one revelant "dynamic range scaling"
Anyone else ?
Well if your true goal is to have everyone understand what you're saying, you should probably listen to the feedback you're getting. Already, several technical people have been confused about the point you're trying to get across, much less the non technical guys who probably have no clue what a color space is.
So keep it simple - leaving everything about color behind, if you told someone that you were going to take the values ranging 16-235 and place them in a range of 0-255, what are the words that come to mind? Expand, Scale, Enlarge, Increase, etc. So now we have our verb. We're (expanding, scaling, enlarging increasing), but what are we doing the action on? 0-255 is, as David pointed out, the luminance value of the color in question. Luminance range is also known as dynamic range, or alternately, 0-255 is known as 8 bit color depth. So you could say (verb) color depth, (verb) dynamic range, (verb) luminance...
Joined: 27 May 2007 Posts: 1510 Location: Taiwan / France
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:00 pm Post subject:
CRT_Ben wrote:
Well if your true goal is to have everyone understand what you're saying, you should probably listen to the feedback you're getting. Already, several technical people have been confused about the point you're trying to get across, much less the non technical guys who probably have no clue what a color space is.
So keep it simple - leaving everything about color behind, if you told someone that you were going to take the values ranging 16-235 and place them in a range of 0-255, what are the words that come to mind? Expand, Scale, Enlarge, Increase, etc. So now we have our verb. We're (expanding, scaling, enlarging increasing), but what are we doing the action on? 0-255 is, as David pointed out, the luminance value of the color in question. Luminance range is also known as dynamic range, or alternately, 0-255 is known as 8 bit color depth. So you could say (verb) color depth, (verb) dynamic range, (verb) luminance...
Hi Ben,
I'm wondering what other goal could it be ?
I though it was me who asked for more suggestions/inputs !!
Ok
verb = expanding, scaling, enlarging increasing
So you could say (verb) color depth, (verb) dynamic range, (verb) luminance
Nice, what about Color Depth Upscaling ? or Luminance Booster ? or ???
Joined: 28 Aug 2006 Posts: 1523 Location: Northern Virginia
TV/Projector: Marquee 9500LC, Sony 1271, Sony 1252
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:30 pm Post subject:
HKmod wrote:
Hi Ben,
I'm wondering what other goal could it be ?
I though it was me who asked for more suggestions/inputs !!
Ok
verb = expanding, scaling, enlarging increasing
So you could say (verb) color depth, (verb) dynamic range, (verb) luminance
Nice, what about Color Depth Upscaling ? or Luminance Booster ? or ???
Anyway, thanx for your suggestions
The "other" goal is simply the fact that you say you want input but then turned around and insulted David and said you didn't need third party input...
Luminance Booster would be a bad term because it would imply that you're making the picture brighter. Color Depth Upscaling would be more accurate, in my opinion. Hell, you could even say that it gives greater contrast (0-255 vs 16-235).
Link Posted: Thu Aug 14, 2008 10:41 pm Post subject:
Ok, Im one of the non-technical guys Ben was refering to but what I DO know from being a former sportswriter is the English language. While I dont have a clue what you guys are talking about, I do know how you should say it.
"Increased luminance" works but I really think "Color Depth Upscaling" sounds good, sounds professional and is easy for even technical humps like me to understand.
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