CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

ralpharch · Joined: 02 Nov 2007 Posts: 211 Location: Rockville, MD

I have three 50-2036-03P iss 1 CLMs and associated deflection processing boards. I ruined my original set when I put an IC in backwards on the DPB. I bought a replacement set and that worked for the most part but I would get occasional (heat related??) loss of vertical sync on the Marquee when using that set. So when a set of boards became available I sprung for them. I initially thought a replacement VIM solved the problem but it (loss of sync) eventually did come back (on rare occasions - hasnn't happened lately as cool weather arrived)

So I tried the new replacement CLM and DPB. These looked real ratty - like glycol or something had spilled on them. I tried cleaning everything with deoxit. Then I tried all combinations of DPBs and CLMs. The only one that works is using my first replacement CLM and its associated DPB. Neither of the other DPBs work in this CLM so I assume I only have one good DPB.

One CLM gets no lights at all when I use it regardless of DLB. One CLM has the strobing (cycling left to right and back again) lights on the back of the CLM. When I initially power it on it comes on in standby. When I push source the red light on the left lights up (ceiling mounted looking). Then when I push power the set of lights start strobing as mentioned. None of the CRTs come on with either of these CLMs

On my working board the projector starts right up when powered on as I have it set up that way (not to go to standby).

Any ideas on the strobing CLM? Could it just be something simple like the battery? Reason I am asking, although its fall and my projector is working again without loss of sync, I am pretty sure it will return late next spring or sooner when the attic gets hot again. I have all the parts to change the 81110+ into an 8500 but don't want to go through the effort if I still have this intermittent vertical sync problem.

PaulB · Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 8:05 am Post subject:

Those flashing red lights happened to me. Here's a link to the explanation of what they mean and potentially how to fix th diagnosed problem - http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10859&start=0

Nashou66 · Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 12:44 pm Post subject:

Ralph, the railroad lights are usually something wrong with the DPB. So take your known good DPB and put it on all the CLMs that are not working to find out which one is ok. But some lower version U7 chips on the DPB will not work with higher version CLM program chips. If U7 is 5.2 (IIRC)or higher you should be ok.

Now on all boards look at the connectors for the CLM and DPB that mate the two together. I have seen this on tree boards where the solder joints do not have a good connection, and on one you could not tell it was a cold solder joint unless i moved the board( I have a set of extension cards). So i re-soldered all points on both the CLM and DPB and that fixed it. Also on the DPB there is a a few tants one near the connectors and three on the side where there are two electrolytic caps, those all can be bad or also have cold solder joints. And then last for caps check the ones near U7. One last thing is to pull and clean the longer socketed chips. if that is not it you might have a bad processor or some other chip on the DPB. Out of all the CLM's its always been the DPB I fixed one( bad voltage regulator) and three I am still diagnosing.

Nashou

ralpharch · Joined: 02 Nov 2007 Posts: 211 Location: Rockville, MD

Paul and Nashou -

Thanks for replies. As I sort of mentioned I figured out I only had one good DPB (the only one that works in my "good" CLM). I don't think its likely that I have incompatible DPB chips as they all came from same version same issue CLM but I will chedk as per the other thread. I had already checked the seating on the ICs before posting and that had gotten me to the railroad track status on the one CLM.

But what does stike a chord above is the contact problem between the CLM and DPB. That appeared to be a major location where gunk (glycol or whatever) was on the boards. I deoxited the pins on that DPB and scrubbed hard with the deoxit with a toothbrusn. But there was nothing I could do with the sockets except spray the deoxit in and push the board in and out. Still half the pins look like they are still covered - so perhaps it is contact related and I am going to have a hard time fixing.

I think I will try one other tact. I am going to take all the ICs out of the board with the gunk connection and put them into the board that does nothing (the one I screwed up by putting an IC in backwards). Maybe that will give me a good CLM. (In all cases I would only use the working DPB in whatever CLM I was trying).

Nashou66 · Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 5:15 pm Post subject:

Which Chip did you put in backwards? Just want to make sure nothing around it was damaged and my damage the new chip your going to put in.
Also you should re solder all points on both connectors, those points do have bad solder joints from what i have seen.

Athanasios