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Review of Box 1021 with lots of screen shots.
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MikeEby



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Joined: 24 Jun 2007
Posts: 3565
Location: Osceola, Indiana

TV/Projector: NEC XG1351


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 12:33 am    Post subject: Review of Box 1021 with lots of screen shots. Reply with quote


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I received my Box1021 via express mail. The unit is a well constructed device incased in sturdy extruded housing. The printed wiring board is built using modern surface mount technology with 3 connections, an RGB in/out (HD-DB15) and a 9 volt power supply connection. The unit also has an external adjustment for changing the level of gamma boost. I was only interested in this feature so I will limit the scope of this review to that subject.

My system consists of an Intel based HTPC equipped with an HD-DVD/Blu-ray combo drive, Asus/ATI 3850 video card and Powerstrip & PowerDVD Ultra 7.3 running Windows Vista Ultimate. The system is connected via Analog (DVI-A) directly to an NEC XG1351 projector with a 6 foot RGBHV breakout cable. Because I intended to do an A/B comparison I simply installed a short 2 foot VGA cable between the HTPC and projector placing the Box 1021 in the middle of the signal path then swapped cables for the comparison. For the permanent installations it is possible to attach the unit directly to a DVI-A/Analog adapter then connect the DVD-A adapter to the output of the video card.

Upon initial testing of the Box 1021 to the system the first thing I wanted to test was bandwidth using a 1:1 pattern, it was important to me the box did not degrade the signal to the projector. The bandwidth requirements at 1080p@72Hz are very high with a pixel clock in the 210 MHz range and is way beyond the rated specs of this projector but I still cannot afford any loss of signal quality. Below is the 1on1 off pattern. No noticeable degrading of the pattern is detected. In fact the ideal pattern should have equal brightness for vertical and horizontal lines and with the Box 1021 the brightness is much closer to equal. This was a nice unexpected side effect of the box.


With Box 1021


Without Box 1021


Now for some screen shots, all of the following shots were taken during the same session the camera set on full manual mode with no change in exposure settings during the session. No post processing other then resizing were performed on the images.

The first disk I reviewed was the Blu-ray release of Stanly Kubrick 1968 Classic “2001: A Space Odyssey”. One reason for choosing this over a newer release is I felt if the Box 1021 can bring out shadow detail in an older film then with a newer picture the results should be even better, the movie was full of dark scenes and I was delighted by the results but I must admit the differences are subtle and are more noticeable in a real life situation but I will point them out, I also recommend reviewing the images a room with low ambient light.

With Box 1021


Without Box 1021

Here the difference is obvious.

With Box 1021


Without Box 1021

To the left of the excavation with the Box 1021 you are able to see the surface of the moon in the shadows. There is also a hill present in the darkness to left with the Box1021.

With Box 1021


Without Box 1021

Here the difference is obvious.

With Box 1021


Without Box 1021

Notice the buttons to the right of Frank's head.

With Box 1021


Without Box 1021

More detail in the empty seat.

With Box 1021


Without Box 1021

Here the difference is obvious.

With Box 1021


Without Box 1021

More detail in the lower center.


Now what most consider the reference disk "The Fifth Element" Blu-ray second release.

With Box 1021


Without Box 1021

More detail on the left side of Leeloo's face.

With Box 1021


Without Box 1021

More detail in Korben's 5 o'clock shadow.

With Box 1021


Without Box 1021

More detail in back wall.

In short if your after a low cost analog solution to boost your gamma the Box 1021 is hard to beat.

Mike

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Last edited by MikeEby on Mon May 05, 2008 3:38 am; edited 2 times in total
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1080man



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Joined: 30 Oct 2007
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PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike, thank you for taking these excellent pictures. As I have earlier said, in my experience it is very difficult to capture well exposed shots from a display screen. You did an amazing and thorough job.
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Box1040 Component to RGB converter with gamma boost & image shift
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kal
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TV/Projector: Zenith Pro 1200x (aka Barco Cine 8 Onyx)


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 2:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice shots Mike! I've added your review to the Box1021 order page and a link to your Gamma Boost screenshots from both the Box1020 and Box1021 order pages (since both boxes use the same gamma boost technology).

Kal

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Nashou66



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Joined: 12 Jan 2007
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TV/Projector: Marquee 8000, 8500 And a 9500LC RetroIV , 2 Longbow 8500 Ultras(2004!!)Hd145's , Ampro 3600, a G90!!


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 2:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks good but i'd like to see the gamma curve for this from HCFR if you plan on doing the greyscale calibration, it looks like you might need to tweek it lower just a bit, Its hard to tell but you might have a bit of blue push in the mid IRE's. I'm sure you could tell more in person as we all know screenies are subjective but it does look nice ! this will help lots of people who need gamma control .

Athanasios

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MikeEby



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Joined: 24 Jun 2007
Posts: 3565
Location: Osceola, Indiana

TV/Projector: NEC XG1351


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nashou66 wrote:
Looks good but i'd like to see the gamma curve for this from HCFR if you plan on doing the greyscale calibration, it looks like you might need to tweek it lower just a bit, Its hard to tell but you might have a bit of blue push in the mid IRE's. I'm sure you could tell more in person as we all know screenies are subjective but it does look nice ! this will help lots of people who need gamma control .

Athanasios


Yeah I know, I just got the EyeOne and haven't got real good at it yet. It actually seems a little flakey it will just stop reading. I think the projector does have a blue hump in the calibration I need to address. I'll probably post a question or two in that thread.

Mike

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Last edited by MikeEby on Mon May 05, 2008 3:15 am; edited 2 times in total
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Nashou66



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TV/Projector: Marquee 8000, 8500 And a 9500LC RetroIV , 2 Longbow 8500 Ultras(2004!!)Hd145's , Ampro 3600, a G90!!


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 2:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does it freeze on the 0 and 10 IRE's? Make sure you do not have the multiple readings for dark measures as that may make it take much longer reading.
Aslo if it does freeze put up the 100 IRE , that should "wake" it up. i had that happen to mine a few times during continuos measures but not during the
greyscale measuring.

Athanasios

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AnalogRocks



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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
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Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nicely done. Great review. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up
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David_Web



Joined: 02 May 2007
Posts: 384
Location: Sweden


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice review.

Could you test the low level bandwidth and ringing patterns I posted in the test patterns thread?
Also the bandwidth pattern would be nice.

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kschmit2



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

damn, white crush Sad
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MikeEby



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Joined: 24 Jun 2007
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Location: Osceola, Indiana

TV/Projector: NEC XG1351


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kschmit2 wrote:
damn, white crush Sad


Kai, I see what I consider white crush in both with and without the box images, especially the top set. Did you notice it somewhere more with the box because I don't see it? Note also my screen is a homemade 1.0ish gain screen costing $70 it’s relatively large also at 8 feet wide.

As you always note smaller the screen the more punch the image has. Smile I do notice the blue hump in the grey scale that Athanasios talked about I will fix that tonight but it’s no fault of the box because it's that way with and without the box present.

Mike

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kschmit2



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PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Essentially the entire highlight range is affected.

Quite noticable e.g. in Leeloo's face, or the curtain behind Mr. Willis.

The gamma curve is only supposed to affect the lowest IRE range, but apparently boosts everything the way it is implemented here (it still has a bit more boost at the lower part, it just shouldn't affect the highlights)
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MikeEby



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PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kschmit2 wrote:
Essentially the entire highlight range is affected.

Quite noticable e.g. in Leeloo's face, or the curtain behind Mr. Willis.

The gamma curve is only supposed to affect the lowest IRE range, but apparently boosts everything the way it is implemented here (it still has a bit more boost at the lower part, it just shouldn't affect the highlights)


Yes it does affect the high end also and one must be prudent in the amount of boost applied to prevent white crush, but we are talking about a $119 box here in the analog domain. If PowerDVD and ATI would allow me to adjust gamma curve in the digital domain this would not be an issue and I would not need a device such as this. If I raise the brightness on the projector I lose my total fade to black. With the box installed my theater goes completely dark, as in can't see my hand in front of my face during FTB yet I still have detail at the low end. Without the box I have no detail in the shadows with perfect FTB.

Mike

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David_Web



Joined: 02 May 2007
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Location: Sweden


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The way the curves look in the other thread you should not get white crush regardless how much you turn it up.

I don't know if this is the best implementation of black boost or not as I have not tested it.

I will however try the same thing with digital correction and see how it affects things and if it would be ideal and in that case I might have to get one as I would then avoid banding that would otherwise be seen with digital correction.

The brightness normalization was a nice side effect indeed. I wonder what is causing that and if it was intentional.

Could you try the patterns I made?

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ecrabb



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PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MikeEby wrote:
kschmit2 wrote:
damn, white crush Sad


Kai, I see what I consider white crush in both with and without the box images, especially the top set.


What are you guys looking at? Are your monitors clipping the whites? Sorry, Kai but I'm going to have to disagree.

Obviously, there is a difference in the signal with and without the box beyond that of the low-end gamma boost. However, I just A-B'd several of the images in Photoshop, and from what I can tell, there is NOT any difference in "white crush" in either set of images.

There is a noticeable luma value difference of approximately 2% between the two - we're talking about say 94/100 vs 96/100, but who's to say just lowering contrast a click or two with the box in wouldn't eliminate the difference? Even on the tip of Bruce Willis' nose in the closeup shot, it's 97/100 vs. 98/100. It's a highlight - it SHOULD be almost white.

Most important though, I don't see any white clip or crush whatsoever. All the highlights look like they're intact to me.

Mike, try tonight grabbing two shots - one without the box, and with the box but with the contrast down a click or two.

I'm not an engineer (OK, far from it actually), but couldn't a tiny DC offset of .03 or .04 volts result in an offset across the entire range? Wouldn't a click or two on the brightness and contrast controls effectively nullify the difference?

SC
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Gary M.
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PostLink    Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wanted to update this thread for those reading this forum and thinking of trying XVues amazing pieces

there is no white crush introduced with the gamma control!! simple as that

I am using a HDFury2(set to RGB) connected directly to the 1020(BB on about 20 to 25%), feeding the Fury 4:2:2 YPbPr

-Gary
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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4853
Location: Flower Mound, TX


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecrabb wrote:
MikeEby wrote:
kschmit2 wrote:
damn, white crush Sad


Kai, I see what I consider white crush in both with and without the box images, especially the top set.


What are you guys looking at? Are your monitors clipping the whites? Sorry, Kai but I'm going to have to disagree.

Obviously, there is a difference in the signal with and without the box beyond that of the low-end gamma boost. However, I just A-B'd several of the images in Photoshop, and from what I can tell, there is NOT any difference in "white crush" in either set of images.

There is a noticeable luma value difference of approximately 2% between the two - we're talking about say 94/100 vs 96/100, but who's to say just lowering contrast a click or two with the box in wouldn't eliminate the difference? Even on the tip of Bruce Willis' nose in the closeup shot, it's 97/100 vs. 98/100. It's a highlight - it SHOULD be almost white.

Most important though, I don't see any white clip or crush whatsoever. All the highlights look like they're intact to me.

Mike, try tonight grabbing two shots - one without the box, and with the box but with the contrast down a click or two.

I'm not an engineer (OK, far from it actually), but couldn't a tiny DC offset of .03 or .04 volts result in an offset across the entire range? Wouldn't a click or two on the brightness and contrast controls effectively nullify the difference?

SC


No, I'm with Kai. Look at the Leeloo closeup. Hear right cheek (left side of the screen) has better shadow detail, but it came at a high cost--look at here left cheek. Here left cheek looks MUCH better WITHOUT the 1020. It is blowing the whites and screwing up the top of the gamma curve--it is getting too flattened out.

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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
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PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
More detail on the left side of Leeloo's face.


Yeah, but the price is too high. Look at the other side of her face especially where the cheek and the nose come together. Or look at how much worse her lips look with the 1020.

You'd need to see if you could recalibrate with the box to fix this. Basically, the box 1021 has improved the lower 5% of the picture at the cost of the upper 70%. NO THANKS!

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zaphod



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PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i find it interesting that on the picture of Willis, the 5 o'clock shadow - with the box - is brought out more, so much more that it becomes more obviously make-up instead of actual shadow.

hmmm, could the box be too much of a good thing Wink

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kal
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PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Person99 wrote:
Quote:
More detail on the left side of Leeloo's face.


Yeah, but the price is too high. Look at the other side of her face especially where the cheek and the nose come together. Or look at how much worse her lips look with the 1020.

You'd need to see if you could recalibrate with the box to fix this. Basically, the box 1021 has improved the lower 5% of the picture at the cost of the upper 70%. NO THANKS!


You guys are reading way too much into this.

Guys, you're assuming that the automatic in-camera exposure is done perfectly in all cases. I can tell you that that is never the case with any camera, even the expensive ones. There's simply no way for the camera to really understand what exactly to expose for. This is why pro's shoot in RAW mode and develop their picture manually to expose for the area THEY want to expose so that the result is as they remember in real life.

The other issue is that cameras have what we'd call consider a much smaller 'contrast range' than what our projectors can do. (They're called 'stops' in the photography world). Without having to resort to some trickery of taking multiple exposures and then combining them, it's impossible to show good shadow detail and good white details in a screenshot. It may look perfect in person but take a photo of it (even with a $10K camera) and it won't show up right. You have to either expose for the darks or expose for the whites. You can't do both. The other end will either clip or crush.

All that to say that you can never use screenshots to judge white clipping or black crushing unless they're a pro photographer and really know what they're doing. No offence to MikeEby, they're good shots, but he's not a professional photographer:

Quote:
...all of the following shots were taken during the same session the camera set on full manual mode with no change in exposure settings during the session. No post processing other then resizing were performed on the images.


We've all seen pictures of digital projectors where the black levels seem great but we know in person that that model has a raised black level. Same thing. It's just the camera compensating.

There's no such thing as "100% manual mode" with a digital camera where what you get is what you see in person. That's just impossible. It still has to do metering and compensate somehow. If you don't control it to do what you want to ensure that you're seeing in the photo what you see in real life, you're not going to get what you see in real life.

So I'm sure you're all reading too much into this and pulling information out of something where there is none. There's no way to know for sure by looking at the photos above if the box clips whites.

Kal

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Person99



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PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal, the same can be said for shadow detail. Unless you are pro photographer, shadow detail is better in person than digital shots.

I'm not even worried about the clipping whites. I'm worried about the gamma curver being flattened. These devices can do that without careful calibration. It is effecting the curve, also boosting whites. Look at the fifth comparison shot "more detail in the seats"--look at the person in the background and the white surround--way worse with 1021.

But, back to leeloo. Forger blown whites. Look at her lips (thats more toward the middle on the IRE range)--the gamma curve is too flat. Her lips look worse with the 1021. Her right cheek assume these are posted because they are representative of what he is seeing on the screen. If so, either:
1) He needs to calibrate better with the 1021, or
2) The 1021 has undesirable side effects.

There is no free lunch, you can't modify the lower gamma very much without effecting something else.

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