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Marquee tube removal

 
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MarchingCRT




Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Baltimore, MD


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 4:07 am    Post subject: Marquee tube removal Reply with quote


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I have a nine inch marquee and need to clean the fungus out of the green tube. The machine is mounted on the ceiling. Can I safely take the tube out without taking the whole projector down? Do I have to remove all the tubes at the same time? This projector started out as an 8500 I bought from Curt many years ago. I scored a set of 9 inch tubes a few years ago and made the swap, but I cannot remember exactly the process. I just want to make sure I don’t loosen something and the tubes come falling out!!

Thx
Trent
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gjaky




Joined: 05 Jun 2010
Posts: 2789
Location: Budapest, Hungary


PostLink    Posted: Tue Jan 04, 2022 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can remove the tubes safely one by one even if it is ceiling mounted. You have to remove all the covers, there is a bar on the top of the tubes, but each tube is held in place by the two screws those can be found at the "foot" of the tubes. Make sure to remove all the electrical connections (neckboards, astig, H & V deflection, convergence, focus, HV) before trying to remove the tube.
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projectors in the past : NEC 6-9PG xtra, Electrohome Marquee 6-7500, NEC XG 1351 LC ( with super modified Electrohome VNB neckboard !!!)
current: VDC Marquee 9500LC
The MOD: VNB-DB, VIM-DB
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Tim in Phoenix




Joined: 21 Oct 2006
Posts: 4378
Location: Phoenix


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 06, 2022 4:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guys

Take the lens off first, it is fifteen pounds alone. You will need a long 9/64 allen driver; Xcelite makes a nice kit. Unplug everything to the green tube, remove the neckboard, unplug the pink anode lead and anything in the way. I would remove the horizontal deflection and focus boards and the sleeves they sit in. Then, with someone holding the twenty pound weight of the tube, remove the two "footer" bolts, 3/16 allen. The tube should drop down under its weight alone.

Replace old glycol with 90/10 mix of triethylene glycol and distilled water, you will need about 22 fl. ounces. A plastic squirt tip bottle is useful. Replace fill hole screws with stainless steel if necessary. Removing the old bellows is a problem, the c element lens often sticks to it and you end up slicing it away and replacing it.

I can replace bellows and glycol on tubes shipped to Scottsdale 85258




Tim Martin, E-Tech Systems Scottsdale

480 253 2781 please text me first

ehometech8022@yahoo.com
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MarchingCRT




Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Baltimore, MD


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 09, 2022 10:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you both!! This jogs my memory. I am pretty sure when I put in the tubes I roughed in the mechanical portion on a bench and then removed the tubes, mounted the chassis and remounted the tubes so we weren’t lifting all that weight at once. Tim, I will consider sending you the tube. I have a spare I can throw in so I don’t miss any 🏈 for now😎. It ‘looks’ fine sitting on my shelf. Guessing it will work fine. Thanks again for the info. I will post back with my progress. When I make some progress 😅
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Trombone player by day. CRT nut by night.
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MarchingCRT




Joined: 14 Nov 2008
Posts: 36
Location: Baltimore, MD


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have switched out the tube. I took my time and it went smoothly. This green is much brighter than the other one. It could be that I had the input lead to the HV splitter on the wrong terminal. I learned last night the correct one is marked "in". I would guess that is why the other green seemed weaker? I would have had only a 25% chance of hooking it up correctly when I swapped all the tubes out years ago not knowing this tidbit. I have gone through and reset everything and done a decent job with the magnets. Looking forward to adjusting greyscale and watching!

Thank you again for the guidance!

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Trombone player by day. CRT nut by night.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24296
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2022 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No the lead locations on the splitter have nothing to do with brightness. The replacement green tube has more emission than the original. Check your filament voltage, if it has a LVPS with the drifting filament control in it, then the filament voltage will drift upwards, killing tubes. The filament should read no more than 6.5 volts, ideally 6.35
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