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Barco crt tubes

 
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toucanb1




Joined: 20 Sep 2021
Posts: 5
Location: erie,penna


PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 22, 2021 12:36 am    Post subject: Barco crt tubes Reply with quote


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This is my first time here, so I hope that I am doing this right. Purchased a Barco Cine 7 projector. As it was described to me
as having very low hours on the unit. Which it did, only 951 hours. Tried to set the convergence on it but it was of no use.
I would have to do a total convergence of the unit. Reset the Scheimpflug correction. I would have to move the blue and red
crt to start the first steps of the convergence. Went to move the tubes and nothing. These tubes just WILL NOT MOVE no matter
what I did. They are like, they are super glued or welded in place. THEY JUST WILL NOT BUDGE. No movement left or right. I have another Cine 7 just like the one that I am currently working on. The tubes in that unit will move with two fingers on the lens. Not this one. Am I missing something?? Did Barco do something different that I am not aware of? My previous unit is mfg. in 2000. The one that I am currently working on is mfg. 2003. Anyone that would know why the red and blue crt tubes do not more right or left. I sure could use the help. The tubes on the newer unit are quite bad, while the tubes on my older Barco are in excellent condition. Maybe I could change the crt's from one unit over to the other, but again the tubes can't be moved. Anyone knowing that they may have a solution. Why they don't move or how to get them to move
would be of much help. THANKS GUYS!! John
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Hulio




Joined: 15 Apr 2006
Posts: 469
Location: Belgium


PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 22, 2021 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello John and welcome.
First, you did loosened the four bolts per tube, did you ? Also, be sure you don't loose the bolts of the green tube by mistake. The recessed ones are very close to each other and you can't really see which one you are workin on.
If you are sure this is not the case, open the tubes compartment and while pushing the lens in one direction, grab the tube and pull in opposite direction (gently up-down movements as well). This can help sometimes to unstuck the pivoting mechanism. Of course, don't grab the tube while projector is on.
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toucanb1




Joined: 20 Sep 2021
Posts: 5
Location: erie,penna


PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2021 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Hulio: Yep! You were right on!. It was the two screws on the bottom. I looked at them at least four or five times. Even tried to get at them a couple of times, couldn't find anything that was small enough to get over the screws. On my old Barco, I never loosened any screws then the top ones. The previous owner
must never have tightened the lower ones back up. I also thought that if they were to be loosened up that they surely would have put screws slots into the screws,
as all of the other screws have screws slots in them. So why not have screw slots where you would surely need them as just about the only thing that would be
easy to get to those screws would be a screwdriver. In the setup it says to loosen A an B and C and D so A and B for red and C and D for blue. They do not show where they are located at. So thanks, you were of much help. Maybe you can answer this. Set the convergence, the best by the controls.
Then did an auto. All of the set up lines and dots were white, just as they should be, but when I go to video dvd, the convergence is still off. Trying to set the projector up for wide screen movies. Again thanks for your help it is very much appreciated. John
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24296
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 24, 2021 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to use the 'genlocked' pattern, which locks a memory location to your input signal.. while the input signal is running. Failure to do so has the set store your convergence settings into a random memory location..
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Hulio




Joined: 15 Apr 2006
Posts: 469
Location: Belgium


PostLink    Posted: Sat Sep 25, 2021 3:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, as Curt said.
A Barco digital chassis will create a memory block for each input/resolution/frequency. In order to do that, the the projector must lock to an active signal.
When working on geometry and convergence patterns, you have three choices:
-loading an internal # pattern (with the resolution/frequency of your choice)
-loading a genlocked # pattern (still internal, but at the resolution/frequency of the active video source)
-loading a # pattern from the active video signal (this is the best option, provided you have a test pattern DVD)

So it seems you was creating a random memory block for a different resolution than DVD video. As Curt mentioned, tweak your geometry and convergence while the source is active by choosing genlocked pattern. After that, each time the projector will detect a DVD signal, will automatically load the good memory block.
Since you are busy with a fresh install, it is advisable to delete first all previously saved memory blocks in the service menu.
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toucanb1




Joined: 20 Sep 2021
Posts: 5
Location: erie,penna


PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2021 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, here I am again. Been trying to set up this projector since I got it in Sept. I am trying to set the projector up for a
8 ft. wide by 4 and a half ft tall screen. Naturally I want to use as much as the screen that I can. I have a fairly good picture, but it will never be good as the green tube is very badly burnt. Just how do you have a correct convergence. When you start your set up and the cross hatch pattern over shoots your screen, it's just to big. Shouldn't your convergence be set and installed to the screen that you are going to be viewing? Also with the different formats for movies. How do you set your picture so it is correct for these different formats? Wide screen, letter boxed, and the older full frame movies. When I start up the projector, there is the 20 minute warm up period. Well when you turn on the projector the white warm up screen is all bowed in at the top and bottom, and the sides are key stoned slightly. Just can't seem to get this to straighten up square. One other thing is that when doing the convergence on the cross hatch pattern. The upper left corner gets dog eared, like you were marking a page in a book. I still have enough adjustment left but it always folds over on me. One other thing is I sure could use more brightness to the picture. I am now in the 90's on my adjustment on the brightness and contrast. In the dark scenes you can barely make anything out at all, it's so dark. Another thing is that when you go into the adjustment, I only have brightness and contrast. There is not color, tint, or sharpness. Just how do you adjust these settings? As for the sharpness, I have focused the tubes a number of time and the picture never looks sharp. I think that is just about enough for now. If I get these things resolved,any other problems that I am having, will also be resolved. Again I would like to thank all that give me advice on these matters. Your help is truly appreciated.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 24296
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2021 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A couple of things.

1) Always start with the green geometry. do a 'set to midposition' to clear all the memory locations out, and to set all controls to 50%. That's mandatory.

2) Make sure the lens toe-in (mechanical adjustment), and the V size of the R and B tubes is done on the deflection PC board (I think there's a R and G V shift as well on the deflection board)? Use those to get the V image correct in the middle of the image, so that all three images are completely on top of one another in the middle of the screen.

3) Start with geometry, and nail the green setup perfectly.

4) Only then use the convergence of the red and blue tubes within the menu. The less convergence used, the better, and the more stable th image will be.

5) With an RGBHV input, you don't get color and tint, as that's done within the source. All you can do is gray scale, which will never be accurate with burned tubes.

Keep an eye out on eBay for a cheap green tube, or post in the buy/sell section here on the forum

Have you adjusted the focus controls so that the focus is sharp on the tube face? The tubes used in the Cine 7 will get worse with regards to focusing due to them being ES focusing tubes (see the main website CRT FAQ for an explanation of why). Again, worn tubes = not an ideal picture.

Good luck!
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 17850
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 26, 2021 1:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good hints from Curt. Everything you write sounds like you're new to CRT projectors, which is fine of course. They are not plug and play. There's a steep learning curve. It's important to understand the difference between raster, image area, and so forth.
I recommend spending a couple of days reading the the various guides here: http://www.curtpalme.com/TechTips.shtm

These are probably the most relevant:

http://www.curtpalme.com/TubeRasterSetup.shtm
http://www.curtpalme.com/CRTSetupGuide.shtm
http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco701.shtm
http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco_Setup_Quick_Reference_Guide.shtm

Good luck!

Kal

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