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Marantz SR7002 standby flashing
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Ok, here is what I need. Fill in the blanks with tested voltages.

On selector/encoder board (board with the standby led)
Receiver power switch latched on but not powered up (stand by mode)


Q806:

B:_____
E:_____
C:_____

Q807:

B:_____
E:_____
C:_____


Receiver fully power on:

Q806:

B:_____
E:_____
C:_____

Q807:

B:_____
E:_____
C:_____
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2012 10:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do other remote control functions work?
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 12:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1 more thing. Do you have zone control turned off?
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chrisfern




Joined: 10 Dec 2012
Posts: 15
Location: Australia


PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Macgyver it is like this,

Receiver fully power on:

Q806:

B: 4.9V
E: 4.9V
C: 0.8V

Q807:

B: 4.9V
E: 4.9V
C: 0.8V

I cant go to standby mode {Receiver power switch latched on but not powered up (stand by mode)}. I can do power on and off only.

My question light above the power switch not on.

I tried to figure out zone control, but I couldn't. How do I go to zone control turn on/ off?

Do you know how to do the master reset on this amplifier?

I will write about remote later,

Thanks for all help,

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Chrisfern
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

chrisfern wrote:
Macgyver it is like this,

Receiver fully power on:

Q806:

B: 4.9V
E: 4.9V
C: 0.8V

Q807:

B: 4.9V
E: 4.9V
C: 0.8V

I cant go to standby mode {Receiver power switch latched on but not powered up (stand by mode)}. I can do power on and off only.

My question light above the power switch not on.

I tried to figure out zone control, but I couldn't. How do I go to zone control turn on/ off?

Do you know how to do the master reset on this amplifier?

I will write about remote later,

Thanks for all help,


Ok, those voltages look fine and the leds would be off under these voltages.

Now I've been under an incorrect assumption since I thought there was a separate power switch and another power on/off switch. In the service manual it shows both but apparently that only applies to some models. Yours only has 1 tact switch for power on/off, correct? And this switch works ok, correct? And when off there is no standby light, correct?

The zone switch on your model would be the multi button on the front panel. Pushing it should show changes on the display and look for multi room A and multi room off. Make sure it's off.

I will look up reset.
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To do a reset.

Turn on receiver, press and hold the multi and speaker A/B buttons and hold for at least 5 seconds.
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Fri Dec 14, 2012 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can also do backup memory clear.

With receiver on, press and hold the menu and clear buttons for at least 5 seconds. The display should read "backup clear" and then should display "complete".
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chrisfern




Joined: 10 Dec 2012
Posts: 15
Location: Australia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 3:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are correct Macgyver. This model have only one on/off switch. What you mention about it exactly correct.

I checked the multi room and it is off.

I did reset and back up memory clear, still power led is off.

I'm just wondering what happened.

Thanks

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Chrisfern
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you tested Q806 and Q807 for short?

What's up with the remote?

Is there anything else that is not working properly?
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chrisfern




Joined: 10 Dec 2012
Posts: 15
Location: Australia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Both transistors are OK. Nothing else is wrong in this...everything's working pretty good.

I have Marantz RC8001SR remote. It work only volume up and down and channel selector switch and few more function's. But power on/off (or standby didn't work). Also I noticed battery very low and I replaced it. Now I have to set up the remote. I think I have to enter the code to operate.

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Chrisfern
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remote must be in "amp" mode for on/off to work.

Have you tried resetting the remote to factory?
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chrisfern




Joined: 10 Dec 2012
Posts: 15
Location: Australia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 9:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh finally I found on remote amp button paint totally faded. When I select remote amp I can turn on and off also I standby light is on.

So thanks for every support... are an expert.

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Chrisfern
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2012 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your welcome. Glad it all worked out for you.... Very Happy
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chrisc0694




Joined: 18 May 2014
Posts: 1



PostLink    Posted: Sun May 18, 2014 5:30 pm    Post subject: On the money Reply with quote

This thread is right on the money. My SR7002 stopped working due to power protect mode (blinking red led). With info from this thread and download of the SR7002 service manual online (3 bucks) I was able to replace resistor R903 on the Power Regulator board and resolve the issue.

A few notes on this:

1) There is a lot of ribbon cables/headers that need to removed to access this board so be careful. Best to remove the entire heat sink from base to better access this board from the bottom.

2) While you are in there mine as well replace the other resistor of same value acting as a fuse for another circuit (R904)

3) These are .33 ohm 1W resistors you can get a 10 pack from Mouser for around $10 with shipping

4) The board is upside down with respect to how the layout in the manual has it where R903 is toward the bottom.

5) Need small socket driver / ratchet set to remove the screws holding down the Voltage Regulators to the bottom plate. Also helpful for some really long phillips and standard screwdrivers.

6) After soldering new resistor and re-assembling you must reset out of protect mode using key sequence in this thread.

Thanks again this saved me $350 or more to replace the amp.
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170watt




Joined: 03 Sep 2014
Posts: 2



PostLink    Posted: Wed Sep 03, 2014 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello. I am new on this forum, and I am hoping I might get some help with my Marantz SR7002. I purchased this receiver defective (fast blinking led). Upon reading this post, I checked the above mentioned resistors and found the R904 (0.33 ohm 1W) open. I replaced it, and the unit turns on and functions normally, except for the center channel (no sound). I checked with the previous owner, who said that prior to the protection issue all the channels were OK. The relay is not the problem, the settings (like channel set to none) are OK, I believe it’s a signal issue. I have a signal generator and an oscilloscope, but I need to do some reading on how to use these (I am not a technician). My intention would be to feed a 1 KHz (or similar) signal at one of the line inputs, and trace it along the center channel to see if somewhere is interrupted. If the issue is on the main amp board, maybe I have a slight chance to identify the culprit. If something else, call it quits. Anyone could help me with that?
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

170watt wrote:
Hello. I am new on this forum, and I am hoping I might get some help with my Marantz SR7002. I purchased this receiver defective (fast blinking led). Upon reading this post, I checked the above mentioned resistors and found the R904 (0.33 ohm 1W) open. I replaced it, and the unit turns on and functions normally, except for the center channel (no sound). I checked with the previous owner, who said that prior to the protection issue all the channels were OK. The relay is not the problem, the settings (like channel set to none) are OK, I believe it’s a signal issue. I have a signal generator and an oscilloscope, but I need to do some reading on how to use these (I am not a technician). My intention would be to feed a 1 KHz (or similar) signal at one of the line inputs, and trace it along the center channel to see if somewhere is interrupted. If the issue is on the main amp board, maybe I have a slight chance to identify the culprit. If something else, call it quits. Anyone could help me with that?


Send me an email if you want.
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24century




Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 2
Location: Phoenix, AZ


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 6:23 pm    Post subject: Re: On the money Reply with quote

Chrisfern, enjoy reading this forum, and I am having the same model/brand of receiver as you have, also the same problem that take me over here.

Tried to follow the steps you took, biggest challenge is board disassembly and tried to figure out how to remove the correct board out (stuck at the speaker terminal board), do you remember the steps in your memory?

Do you have to remove the transformer? any advise will be great help, thx

A few notes on this:

1) There is a lot of ribbon cables/headers that need to removed to access this board so be careful. Best to remove the entire heat sink from base to better access this board from the bottom.

2) While you are in there mine as well replace the other resistor of same value acting as a fuse for another circuit (R904)

3) These are .33 ohm 1W resistors you can get a 10 pack from Mouser for around $10 with shipping

4) The board is upside down with respect to how the layout in the manual has it where R903 is toward the bottom.

5) Need small socket driver / ratchet set to remove the screws holding down the Voltage Regulators to the bottom plate. Also helpful for some really long phillips and standard screwdrivers.

6) After soldering new resistor and re-assembling you must reset out of protect mode using key sequence in this thread.

Thanks again this saved me $350 or more to replace the amp.[/quote]

_________________
This is me, phoenix from the US & A
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24century




Joined: 18 Dec 2014
Posts: 2
Location: Phoenix, AZ


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 6:23 pm    Post subject: Re: On the money Reply with quote

Chrisfern, enjoy reading this forum, and I am having the same model/brand of receiver as you have, also the same problem that take me over here.

Tried to follow the steps you took, biggest challenge is board disassembly and tried to figure out how to remove the correct board out (stuck at the speaker terminal board), do you remember the steps in your memory?

Do you have to remove the transformer? any advise will be great help, thx

email: yuyi429@hotmail.com

A few notes on this:

1) There is a lot of ribbon cables/headers that need to removed to access this board so be careful. Best to remove the entire heat sink from base to better access this board from the bottom.

2) While you are in there mine as well replace the other resistor of same value acting as a fuse for another circuit (R904)

3) These are .33 ohm 1W resistors you can get a 10 pack from Mouser for around $10 with shipping

4) The board is upside down with respect to how the layout in the manual has it where R903 is toward the bottom.

5) Need small socket driver / ratchet set to remove the screws holding down the Voltage Regulators to the bottom plate. Also helpful for some really long phillips and standard screwdrivers.

6) After soldering new resistor and re-assembling you must reset out of protect mode using key sequence in this thread.

Thanks again this saved me $350 or more to replace the amp.[/quote]

_________________
This is me, phoenix from the US & A
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TDA1541




Joined: 14 Nov 2015
Posts: 1



PostLink    Posted: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a Marantz SR8002 (same chassis as the SR7002 and possibly the SR7001 & SR8001) and the red standby light was blinking/flashing at the rate of 3 to 4 times per second (service manual says 500ms, but mine was definitely blinking faster than that). I took the cover off and found that there was no +15v. The fusible resistor (R903) on the REG board had opened. After checking for short and other issues, I bypassed it with a two amp fuse and my DVM in amp mode and the receiver fired right up. Current draw was about 540ma.

The service manual lists this part as: R903 90M-NH000160R FUSE RES. 0.33 OHM 1W FUSE RES.

With the help of a service manual and this site, I was able to repair the unit in no time. I just wanted to post a big thank you and wanted to note that both the SR7002 and the SR8002 use the same chassis, so the repair was the same. I also believe this same chassis was used for the SR7001 & SR8001 as well based off of notes in the service manual, so this repair may also be relevant to those models, but I can't be sure.

Hopefully this thread can prevent another beautiful Marantz from ending up in a landfill. Thanks!

-TDA1541



REG.PNG
 Description:
SR7001/SR8001 REG PCB. Photo is rotated to match orientation when installed in chassis.
 Filesize:  187.28 KB
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REG.PNG


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Poorshh




Joined: 18 Aug 2020
Posts: 4



PostLink    Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just wanted to thank all the support on this thread! My Marantz SR7002 went into standby mode with the fast blinking red light. After doing some online searches found this forum. I ordered and replaced R903 resistor and voila! It’s not easy to replace but I’m no expert and I did it. Just a tip for anyone else with this problem. I removed the cover and removed the main transformer to access the REG PWB A BOARD. Then disconnected most of the small strip connectors. With an angle screw driver I was able to removed the 5 lower screws that connect to the heat sink bar. Then I was able to de-solder and re-solder R903. Thank you again!
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