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Dead(ish) Panasonic TV
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pcheadaches




Joined: 09 Dec 2013
Posts: 62



PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Gary, I do not teach class anymore. You are more then welcome to do what ever you like, it is not my tv. If you want to take the advice from someone who clearly has no idea of what he is talking about then that is fine. I cannot say for sure this will fix your tv with out you at least trying it. If this did not work then I would of had some other verified suggestions. This fix has already been verified by others if you do some goggling. You asked for some assistance and I gave you some. Your call. Smile
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 16752
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pcheadaches wrote:
If you want to take the advice from someone who clearly has no idea of what he is talking about then that is fine.

Clearly this comment was directed at me. I don't understand how questioning an illogical suggestion means I "have no idea what I am talking about".

You provided suggestions with zero backing information, suggestions that logically didn't make sense (set some jumpers on a non-functioning TV to run it in 'BURN' mode to fix it) so I pointed out how this may not make any sense. You provided zero backing information so you should not be surprised that people question you, especially given that the changes you recommend are non-standard.

I've now Googled "TLX-04243B BURN jumper" and came across this: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/166-lcd-flat-panel-displays/943603-official-polaroid-tlx-04240b-42-1080p-lcd-owner-s-thread-11.html#post17073554

Seems there are people that are getting this model TV to work again doing what you suggest. They're quick to point out that (1) it hasn't worked for everyone, (2) they have no idea why it works, and that (3) they don't know what the long term effect is.

My guess is that enabling BURN mode increases voltages and/or biases somewhere that are used during the initial factory burn-in to drive parts harder for a few hours to detect early failures before the units are packaged for shipping to retailers. It's working for folks because some parts have degraded/become borderline so 'boosting' or pushing them harder (like driving bias voltages harder) is getting them back into functioning mode. It's probably not something you'd want to leave on permanently as it'll shorten the lifespan of the devices even more (if you care). That said, I can't confirm this. My guess is that if it works it'll work for a while but isn't a permanent fix like replacing the faulty part(s) would be as some suggest in that thread I linked to. Gary should do some reading and decide for himself and not blindly follow the advice from anyone.

pcheadaches, if you took the time to even remotely explain why you recommend what you do, people would not question you. Nobody trusts someone who simply tells people what to do without zero explanation, especially with the suggestions are somewhat non-standard. That's why there were follow-on questions. It would have taken you only a minute to write "some people have gotten this TV to work again by setting it to BURN mode. See this link.... please read the caveats".

Everyone is here to help. That's the only reason people are (or should be) posting.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Sat Dec 01, 2018 11:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
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garyfritz




Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 11368
Location: Fort Collins, CO


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pcheadaches wrote:
Gary, I do not teach class anymore.

Confused

I googled before I posted here. I found posts on fixya & similar but nothing helpful. Adding "BURN" to the search string turns up some posts where people had success with that approach, but I don't see anything where anybody has any clue why it works. Closest was one poster who said "Burn switch is used in the Factory to force the set 'On.' Set may or may not respond to remote commands in on position. "

I found a video here that described the exact same problem, and he isolated it to a couple of cooked capacitors -- but unfortunately his TV was a TLX04244, not a TLX04243, and the boards are totally different. Doesn't even look like the same TV.

The leads on the BURN jumper are cut too short to clip to, and I can't find my #%@#!! solder. So I'll have to make a solder run and give it a try later.

Kal's point about overdriving components is well taken. Like I said, I don't want to burn my house down.
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pcheadaches




Joined: 09 Dec 2013
Posts: 62



PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You want a class, lol?
Give me at least one good reason why I should waste my time going into great detail in explaining something when I could barely get you to slide a switch or solder a wire without one amateur screaming "DON'T DO IT GARY THE SKY WILL FALL" and you hoping it won't explode. If I were just some other amateur why would I suggest specifically switch 4 and 3 and not some other combination.

Seriously, you are only in troubleshooting mode. We don't even know if the switch thing is the problem. You may do this and there is no change at all and we would have to move onto something else. Am I going to have to explain in detail to you and your friend every suggestion I make to try to trouble shoot this? AGAIN, give me a reason I should be wasting my time.

Or maybe we do a couple things and you decide to just give up because it is to much trouble. All that time explaining was wasted, RIGHT?

Do I have the answers to you and your friends questions? Yes. Do I have schematics on this supply? Yes. Do I have factory information on this supply and that switch? Yes. Am I going to explain all this here? Not now.

You want a class then I am not going to make it easy. You are going to have to put in some work and time also. Are you up for that or is it not worth your time to get that involved? See how it works the other way also?

If you want to continue I will give you a hint on one of your questions. Let me know what you want to do. SmileSmile
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 16752
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pcheadaches wrote:
Give me at least one good reason why I should waste my time going into great detail ...

Because we have no idea who you are. You're not a forum member anyone's ever heard of or dealt with. The internet is full of people who think they know everything.

Quote:
... I could barely get you to slide a switch or solder a wire without one amateur screaming "DON'T DO IT GARY THE SKY WILL FALL" and you hoping it won't explode

I'm not exactly an amateur, I have a degree in electrical engineering. Please go back and read my posts. I didn't scream. I found it odd that a completely unknown forum user (you) who doesn't post often and is unknown to people here is making these suggestions, especially as they came with absolutely no backing explaining why.

pcheadaches wrote:
Do I have schematics on this supply? Yes. Do I have factory information on this supply and that switch? Yes.

People were supposed to assume that?

If everyone on the 'net blindly followed every 1 line answer someone stranger gave in a forum, thing would indeed be exploding.

I say again: Keep in mind this is a discuss forum. If you have zero interest in discussing, you shouldn't spent your time on forums.

Kal

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pcheadaches




Joined: 09 Dec 2013
Posts: 62



PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very well. Good bye.
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garyfritz




Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 11368
Location: Fort Collins, CO


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FWIW I *also* have a degree in electrical engineering.

Quote:
You want a class, lol?

I never asked for a class. You apparently had some knowledge about switches 3 and 4 and I just asked you what they did. That's all. I didn't think that was an unreasonable question. But you preferred to lecture me for paragraph after paragraph about all the reasons why you didn't want to waste time telling me. Rolling Eyes
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26021
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ooooo DRAMA! It's been a while. Laughing BTW I don't have an EE degree but I'm pretty mean with a soldering iron
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CRT.

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HaydnG90




Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 1283



PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

But did you stay at a Holiday Inn Express?
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26021
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HaydnG90 wrote:
But did you stay at a Holiday Inn Express?


Come to think of it I DID stay at a Holiday Inn Express!

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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 16752
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gary,

Based on what's been written in a different thread turns out that "pcheadaches" is actually macgyver655. He seems to go by many names here:

flipdog
mac
macgyver655
repairguy
pcheadaches

I've recommend that he stick to one user as it avoids lots of confusion.

I have less concerns with recommendations from mac given that he's a known quantity now and has helped with board level repair in the past. Feel free to proceed as you wish. Would still be nice to understand why the recommendations are expected to work. Maybe mac will chime in.

Kal

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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 16752
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 1:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As a follow up, mac and I have talked and he has indicated that if I take some responsibility here and we both agree that "things got a little out of control" that he will help as he states that his main concern is for you Gary. So I do take responsibility. I should not have said "I wouldn't do that". And that this statement of mine is possibly incorrect: "The missing jumper wires is not why the TV doesn't work". I should not have said these things. It's my fault. I take not just some responsibility for derailing this thread, but full responsibility.

And just in case I didn't accept these terms correctly, here's what mac said to me:

mac wrote:
Ok, then let me see you put your money where your mouth is. Because I have no problem putting all this behind us but you have to also take some responsibility here.

You go to Garys thread and post that you and I have talked and we both agree that things got a little out of control. I will then come in under mac and post likewise and offer Gary assistance if he wants it.

And my main concerns here is Gary. But you have to lead the way.

Are you up for it? Smile

So I agree to all of mac's terms above. It's now on record.

All yours mac. Help away. Thank you.

Kal

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El Duderino




Joined: 23 Jan 2011
Posts: 4433
Location: Portland, OR


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A similiar set? exhibiting a similiar failure?:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6AkiBZzOhos
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garyfritz




Joined: 08 Apr 2006
Posts: 11368
Location: Fort Collins, CO


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ya that's the video I referred to above. Almost-identical model number, but the TV / boards / is totally different.
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mac




Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 143



PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am here. I also spoke with Gary and he has indicated it will be some time before he can get back to this so we will be waiting on his results.
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El Duderino




Joined: 23 Jan 2011
Posts: 4433
Location: Portland, OR


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 05, 2018 2:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

garyfritz wrote:
Ya that's the video I referred to above. Almost-identical model number, but the TV / boards / is totally different.
I missed that detail. My bad.
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kal
Forum Administrator



Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 16752
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pcheadaches / mac wrote:
I will ... offer Gary assistance if he wants it. And my main concerns here is Gary. But you have to lead the way.

I cannot say for sure this will fix your tv with out you at least trying it. If this did not work then I would of had some other verified suggestions.

Hey mac - I thought you were now going to provide additional information? If the jumper doesn't work what are these other verified suggestions you have?

Gary had a question too:

garyfritz wrote:
can you explain what the BURN and EPWM jumpers are supposed to do, and why you think it might help the situation?

Can you expand on this? I'm curious myself.

Kal

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Last edited by kal on Thu Dec 06, 2018 4:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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HaydnG90




Joined: 22 May 2006
Posts: 1283



PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Me too
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