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SPOTS FROM OLD CHRISTIE LX37

 
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shar1950



Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 78
Location: alberta, canada


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 8:16 pm    Post subject: SPOTS FROM OLD CHRISTIE LX37 Reply with quote


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just bought a Christie LX37 projector. Installed new lamp and cleaned lens and inside area where lens mounts.Does anyone know what is causing spots that appear on the screen. They are always in the same spot on the screen.

Spots only visible on a low light

Have mounted different lens, and still spots on there. Have cleaned lens mount.
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Curt Palme
CRT Tech


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 23662
Location: Langley, BC

TV/Projector: All of them!


PostLink    Posted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dust usually in the optical path. That's most likely why it was removed from service. To do it right, you need to know what you're doing as well as a clean room. I personally wouldn't touch it.
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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2643
Location: Fond du Lac, WI


PostLink    Posted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dust build-up on the internal LCD panels and polarizers is what causes the spots you are seeing. I'm guessing they are magenta, cyan and yellow. You can try cleaning the internal optics by removing the top cover (the screws around the side of the casing, and the 2 screws on top), and using an air compressor to blow the dust out.

Your best bet though is to remove the 4 hex screws holding the entire LCD prism to the light engine, and carefully clean the panels with non abrasive cleaning swabs, and water. Water works best, it will leave spots if you don't dry them off, but it does the best job removing the dust and haze build-up. You can also use rubbing alcohol too.

Careful for the ribbon cables if you do pull the LCD cube out, they are fragile. Also be sure to NOT remove the LCD panels from the cube. If you do, you will mis-align the LCD panels and the projector will be useless. They cannot be re-aligned by hand.

Best of luck!

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shar1950



Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 78
Location: alberta, canada


PostLink    Posted: Fri Mar 24, 2017 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks Jerey112

already had top cover off and use air to remove most of the dist. Next time I will remove lcd prism and do the job properly and thanks for the info.
Are the hex screws metric or standard. Do I remove cables at the bottom or at board ?
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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2643
Location: Fond du Lac, WI


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

shar1950 wrote:
thanks Jerey112

already had top cover off and use air to remove most of the dist. Next time I will remove lcd prism and do the job properly and thanks for the info.
Are the hex screws metric or standard. Do I remove cables at the bottom or at board ?


I would assume they are metric (I don't know offhand, but its made overseas, and electronics usually go by metric screws)

Remove the ribbon cables at the top on the board, they don't remove anywhere else. You *should* be able to pull the cube straight up out of where it's mounted once you remove the 4 screws, and disconnect the ribbon cables. Make sure your hex drivers will fit, its a very tight squeeze on the 2 front ones Wink

Also, PATIENCE Smile

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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2643
Location: Fond du Lac, WI


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also it may help to google some images of "LCD projector light path" As the images will give you a good general idea of how the cube is assembled. There will be polarizer filters between the LCD panels and cube, those can be removed for cleaning, and will need to be. There are 3 screws (one on each LCD panel side, top middle) of the cube that holds a metal brace for each set of polarizer filters down so they don't fall out of position. Again, you are not removing the LCD panel screws, or LCD mount screws, JUST the polarizer brace screw. You can remove the screw without fear of damaging the projector, as well as push the polarizers out from the bottom (opposite of the screw side) AS LONG AS YOU REMEMBER WHAT ORIENTATION you pull them out (one side will have a film on it, that is the polarizer, the other side is glass. Some polarizers (usually clear) have 2 polarizer sides.) Careful with the polarizers, hold them by the edges, they are fragile pieces of glass.

If you aren't comfortable with all this at this stage, stop going any further. It would be best to have it professionally serviced. If you are confident in your abilities, or aren't worried about possibly damaging the projector, then continue.

Do one panel/polarizer set at a time, make sure you remember/photograph how each set is mounted in the cube for the polarizers. Also as I said in my earlier post. DO NOT use abrasive cleaning solutions, or wipes. You can get away with cotton swabs, but they leave lint. Lint free cleaning swabs are the best way to go, but they aren't cheap if you need a lot of them (which you probably will).

What I have told you here is your best bet for a successful cleaning.

_________________
When I'm asking for a Model number, that doesn't mean I'm asking for a nude photo with your number on it Wink
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AnalogRocks
Forum Moderator


Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 25418
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jeremy112 wrote:


Do one panel/polarizer set at a time, make sure you remember/photograph how each set is mounted in the cube for the polarizers.


This and lots of this. Set up a camcorder and record the disassembly and take lot's of still pictures. Especially on the orientation of the polarizers; shiny side/dull side directions.
You may also consider putting a piece of 3M blue easy release tape on the very corner of the panel to indicate front/top orientation. Then photograph it.

Be a CSI, take the photo before moving the item. Very Happy

I screwed up two, 2 pin connectors on one of my JVC DILAs once. Every time I hit the zoom button the screen would go blank. Question
I **didin't** have a photo of those two connectors Sad took me a while to get it straitened out.

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shar1950



Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 78
Location: alberta, canada


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys thanks a lot for the advise. I all way take photos using my phone camera when I take things apart with more than 2 screws.

Do the lcd panels wear out, with long use ? Could one use lcd panel from Christie LX33, in the LX 37 they both look the same.
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Jeremy112



Joined: 28 Sep 2006
Posts: 2643
Location: Fond du Lac, WI


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've serviced probably over 400 Sanyo projectors, never seen a worn out LCD panel in one yet. And some have been over 20,000 hour sets! I think those will be fine. Like I said, they cannot be removed individually. You can swap the whole cube from another of the same model, but do NOT remove the panels themselves from the cube. You will ruin the convergence and have a very bright and unusable light canon. Wink
_________________
When I'm asking for a Model number, that doesn't mean I'm asking for a nude photo with your number on it Wink
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shar1950



Joined: 10 Feb 2009
Posts: 78
Location: alberta, canada


PostLink    Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2017 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok will start taking the cube out and see what happens. Also notice that the spots are light green on screen,,,,so should just do the green section of the prism.
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donaldk



Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 305



PostLink    Posted: Thu Jul 13, 2017 12:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Organic LCDs wore out Inorganics not really.
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