CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

MarchingCRT · Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Baltimore, MD

You can see from my other recent thread my brother has gotten new boards for his marquee and we are swapping them out and getting his machine back in business. Last night I was (attempting to anyway) adjusting the magnets and having some success. It was getting late so I shut down and went to bed. This mornings when I turned on, everything was very bright which surprised me as I had brightness and contrast turned down to look at the tube face.

Here is what is going on that I can tell.

Every other contrast adjustment up or down makes all three tubes go to max output then go back to normal. Same with the brightness control and vertical size control. Horizontal size doesn't do anything funny. And pressing exit sometimes makes them flicker brighter for a flash. This was not happening yesterday.

Have I messed something up!?

Thanks,
Trent

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

did you do a full re-initalization after installing a new Mobo and all the other stuff?

Service, code 0901, re-initialization. Reset everything, yes

Your back-plane is still old marquee 8000 and that chip is probably struggling to identify all the things you added

other than that, the only other explanation is your high voltage power supply. Is this new or old?

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

Drags is right. Reinitialize the PJ first. If the problem persists, hit the reset button that's accessible from the CLM's back panel. The tip of a ball point pen is all you need to hit the reset button thru that hole.

I don't think that the age of the backplane and the chip on it is going to be a factor. I've upgraded an 8000 chassis to a rev 6.0 Ultra before. Had no issues with it. But that did require replacing the motherboard., The backplane never changed.

Take a minute to pull and reseat the CLM. While it's out give the daughterboard connectors a firm push with thumb pressure,
just to make sure everything is well seated and in good contact.

MarchingCRT · Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Baltimore, MD

I had reinitialized yesterday. Did so again this morning and just now. I just pulled the CLM and contrast board and put them back in and hit the reset button on the back. At first contrast had very little effect and then the green tube went out. I hit the reset button again and the green was back and seemingly at the proper contrast level according to the slider level.

When I single out the green tube, contrast now ramps up and down smoothly. Red and Blue still alternate between high and low output. And the grid lines flare out (they were doing the before as well).

Also, when I go into utilities and to the color temp setup, red and blue drive above 50 will darken the tube and when I cross below fifty they get very bright and the focus is whack. Each time the machine is powered on red and blue are way too bright as well.

The power supply is what Curt sent, although I have the old one and I think it was working fine. I will try it when I get a chance-juggling the kiddos and family. Wink

And when I

Keep resetting?

cmjohnson · Joined: 03 Apr 2006 Posts: 5180 Location: Buried under G90s

That sounds like a G2 voltage issue. G2 voltages are generated by the power supplies. As I recall, though, both power supplies are involved with G2. The LVPS gives power to the HVPS and the HVPS generates G2 in addition to anode voltage.

Check your G2 cables very carefully for any damage to them. I have seen more than one G2 cable clipped clean off and others heavily damaged when they got pinched in the hinged rear heat sink.

Loss of brightness control is usually a G2 voltage control issue.

MarchingCRT · Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Baltimore, MD

I just unscrewed the hv supply and slid it out and then back in. Seems to be behaving! For the moment anyway! Piece at a time. Thank you for your help.

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

re-initializing once is enough, no reason to keep doing it. The idea is to get the machine to wipe all the old parameters and to identify all the new modules along with the chips specific to those modules. kind of a "get to know your neighbors block party" , you're the hostess Mr. Green

the power supply bay is a very dirty place, and i've seen dirt caked in there 1/2" thick. I would unplug the machine, pull both supplies, and take a Q-tip with Isopropyl rubbing alcohol and clean the copper contact pads on both supplies. the Qtip will probly turn black. Keep cleaning till it comes back clean. Vacuum out any dirt from the bay.

Apply this to the contact pads (can be done later) , and actually you should apply this to every single connector on the machine. it works wonders for stability and glitch prevention like the one your describing . $13. with applicator brush

https://jet.com/product/detail/14d73386ae7a4b04b9fa1f8b341c0966?jcmp=pla:ggl:gen_electronics_a3:electronics_accessories_electronics_cleaners_a3_other:na:PLA_348103020_24129146220_pla-156351592860:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&ds_c=[

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4379 Location: Phoenix

Hello

You may have tarnish on the Panduit sockets that boards plug into, or tarnish on the wire harness sockets that ties the power supplies to the backplane, and which also brings G2 onto the main mother board.

Also, pull the HVPS out and remove the rear cover. Remove the small PCB that is mounted vertically and reseat all the socket DIP chips, again a place for tarnish to hide.

Reseat all of the socketed chips on the control board and DPB. You will need a PLCC chip puller for those, about $6 most places.

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 1:51 am Post subject:

What they said. Get yourself a can of DeOxIt, and use it sparingly on the contacts of each module:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CAIG-Laboratories-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner-/172446593029?hash=item28269e3005:g:f4IAAOSwJ7RYUtno

I wouldn't reseat the chips on the board just yet, you can try pushing down HARD on each socketed chip with your thumb with the CLM on a flat surface. The chips may 'click' into place, that will reseat them enough.

draganm · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 8990 Location: Colorado

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 11:01 pm Post subject:

Very true, but getting to the main HVPS connector at the back of the chassis is a PITA. Dragan is right though, use the spray sparingly!

Tim in Phoenix · Joined: 21 Oct 2006 Posts: 4379 Location: Phoenix

**Curt Palme** · Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2016 1:17 am Post subject:

Good point!

MarchingCRT · Joined: 14 Nov 2008 Posts: 36 Location: Baltimore, MD

I have a couple bottles of deoxit on the way. One for me and the other for my brother. I bought an 8500 from curt 10 years ago or so. Probably time for a cleaning. Works great though! This one we have here is pretty well set up now- thanks for all your help. The machine started making a pop and the picture would cut out the come back on. We put in the old hvps and it has run great all day while we tweaked the setup. The picture looks great! I think we are actually going to watch a movie tomorrow!