CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

fearn48 · Joined: 07 May 2008 Posts: 26 Location: Reading, England

Hi all,
I have now fitted my card and after some problems, I've now got a picture. You have to select input 3 on the projector (obvious enough), but what's not obvious or in the manual is any note about which input is which, or how you select them. Button 1 is the HDMI input closest to the card ejector (plastic cradle taken from the old card). Once you select it a beep is heard. You then have to press the display button on the remote. I've no idea why but you do. Take care that you don't hear two beeps when pressing the display button as this seems to switch it back off.

In hope this helps.

fearn48 · Joined: 07 May 2008 Posts: 26 Location: Reading, England

Hi All,
I've been continuing with fitting this card. On the plus side, I can now run the brightness and contrast at a more reasonable level, but on the negative side getting a picture to start with is very long winded and the 3D has a green band at the top, more on that later.

I've discovered in the manual that the "display" button switches the sync polarity. However I don't know why this isn't saved in flash memory! You have to do it:
Every time you switch the projector on (annoying).
When switching barco inputs, due to the projector only powering the HDMI card up when you select port 3 (when port 5 is selected, the HDMI card had no power) (very annoying).
When you switch inputs on the HDMI card (due to it seeming to get some powered from the HDMI) (totally ridicules).

The new card seems to have a much better picture in terms of level when compared to my HDFURY3 connected to port 5. With the fury I had the brightness set to 21, and the contrast set to 71. With the MOOME card brightness is 41 and contrast is 51. The card seems to give out a much wider brightness range, so when you compensate, the controls which are much closer to the mid point.

The 3D has a green band at the top. I've tried 817x1920@72, 720x1280@96, 720x1280@123 and 550x1280@144. They all have the green band at the top.i know it's a sync issue, but I can't work out how to alert it any help would be much appreciated.

All the best
Fearn 48

fearn48 · Joined: 07 May 2008 Posts: 26 Location: Reading, England

Hi All,
I've been continuing with fitting this card. On the plus side, I can now run the brightness and contrast at a more reasonable level, but on the negative side getting a picture to start with is very long winded and the 3D has a green band at the top, more on that later.

I've discovered in the manual that the "display" button switches the sync polarity. However I don't know why this isn't saved in flash memory! You have to do it:
Every time you switch the projector on (annoying).
When switching barco inputs, due to the projector only powering the HDMI card up when you select port 3 (when port 5 is selected, the HDMI card had no power) (very annoying).
When you switch inputs on the HDMI card (due to it seeming to get some powered from the HDMI) (totally ridicules).

The new card seems to have a much better picture in terms of level when compared to my HDFURY3 connected to port 5. With the fury I had the brightness set to 21, and the contrast set to 71. With the MOOME card brightness is 41 and contrast is 51. The card seems to give out a much wider brightness range, so when you compensate, the controls which are much closer to the mid point.

The 3D has a green band at the top. I've tried 817x1920@72, 720x1280@96, 720x1280@120 and 550x1280@144. They all have the green band at the top.i know it's a sync issue, but I can't work out how to aleter. The way I expect it to work doesn't move the green band, it just makes the pic go dim. Any help would be much appreciated.

All the best
Fearn 48

konniekip · Posted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 2:47 pm Post subject:

fearn48 · Joined: 07 May 2008 Posts: 26 Location: Reading, England

Hi konniekip,
I'm using the shutter glasses from curt's website that the original post for this card suggested (and linked to), I believe it was these:

http://www.curtpalme.com/RFGlasses.shtm

I've got a bit further with this issue now, as I emailed the Moome support address early last week. I can move the band up the picture by adding blanking to the bottom of the picture. This is a tip from a post in another thred. See below. But I run out of bandwidth on the Lumagen at 150 lines where it suggests about 500-550 lines. For this method to work I need the plus version of the residence xs for 544x1280@144. I haven't tried 720x1280@96, as I'm using the standard timings for that res, and I've run out of custom settings. Needing both 50 and 60 Hz settings chews through these 8 very quickly.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=37314

I've also been told how to tweek the timings on the Moome card, but have been away since then, so have not tried this yet. I'll post the results once I've had a stab at it.

I'll also try and post a pic or two showing the issue. Pictures will be through the glasses as it's not visable without them. Probably due to not having the fast philosopher tubes, and the decay rate being to slow so the first image is still viable when the second is displayed.
Thanks for your help.
Peter

fearn48 · Joined: 07 May 2008 Posts: 26 Location: Reading, England

Please see the pictures below. You'll notice that above the yellow area the picture is not 3D.

winny · Posted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 1:54 pm Post subject:

How does it work with non-1080p60 resolutions and framerates? I'm running 1080i at the moment but the softness at 1080p might be the analog signal chain and not the projector. Anyhow, 720p or 1080i might still be the best solution for me.

Any overscan/phase/h-shift issues?

winny · Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 1:26 pm Post subject:

No one?

redfox001 · Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands

Works perfect at every resolution I tried including 1080p@72.

CIR Engineering · Posted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 8:09 pm Post subject:

winny · Posted: Wed Nov 04, 2015 3:00 pm Post subject:

banditbiker · Joined: 20 Nov 2015 Posts: 5

Hello everyone,

I just installed my HDMI card in my BarcoGaphics 808s.

I ran into some problems:
*No picture without having to press the "DISPLAY" button on the remote
*No picture after changing resolution (have to press the "DISPLAY" button again)

It seems to have something to do with the polarity of the SYNC signals.
The projector won't display anything unless the polarity is correct. I believe the projector wants negative sync.
Why doesn't the card store this?

Will there be a software update to fix this behaviour?

fearn48 · Joined: 07 May 2008 Posts: 26 Location: Reading, England

banditbiker · Joined: 20 Nov 2015 Posts: 5

Picture is awesome. Way better than with the 8 meter analogue cable I had...

In the schematics of the original input 3 card I see that there is sync polarity processing: whatever you put in, positive sync will come out. In my opinion the card should have this as well.

moome · Joined: 01 Jun 2007 Posts: 497

banditbiker · Joined: 20 Nov 2015 Posts: 5

I already answered your email.
The sticker on the board says V102 or V10y, can be both...

banditbiker · Joined: 20 Nov 2015 Posts: 5

Ok it seems I have firmware 1.02.
Current firmware is 1.03.
Moome promised to send me a new firmware chip.
Hope that solves the issues I have...

banditbiker · Joined: 20 Nov 2015 Posts: 5

Today I got the new firmware chip. That solved the "pressing display button to get picture" issue.

But a new issue came up.
I can't adjust the vertical size enough to get a proper 16:9 picture...
Is there any way to adjust it beyond whats in the menu of the projector?

whoopn · Joined: 08 Mar 2016 Posts: 34

Does this card automatically set the front porch and backporch settings as well as sync width and the like?

I'm sure I'm misunderstanding something but I did just pre-order one and I'm wondering what will be involved in the configuration of my Barco 808 after-the-fact.

Thanks!

fearn48 · Joined: 07 May 2008 Posts: 26 Location: Reading, England