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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 3:19 pm Post subject: |
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gjaky wrote: | Using Cork is a good idea, but don't forget to decouple the screws from the fan too! |
Yes you are right I was thinking of that. Experimenting with the Barco I tried to decouple the screws alone but that did not help much than I tried the thing above and they became much quieter. I think the close coupling with cork dampens the vibrations that much that the screws give less through. But might try some tyrips there just as in the LVPS. Tyrips through the hole and anothe tyrip head on the other side. Might even try thicker foam inspired by the LVPS
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thewolfman
Joined: 28 Mar 2011 Posts: 1311 Location: Sweden
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Link Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 3:45 pm Post subject: |
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Cool seeing some progress and with another take on it. Personally, I almost can't stand the dissymmetry with only 3 fans there and have to shy-away a little looking at them.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 4:34 pm Post subject: |
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I have to test and see if it works but I remember from the Barco that the fans kept irritating me for some reason and after that cork mod I never bothered about the noise that they still make. \it happens most of the time that I completely forget about fans but they are still audible.
But I had a nice afternoon doing modifications
Now waiting on the blue bellow. I got a message that it is on his way.
I used the 2008 LVPS with the fanmod of the old. Also the 2008 HVPS. The backpart with the boards is 2008 and the CLM but I could not detect different versions on chips. So only the HD and Focus are wildcards. Both units old and new look good.
Modifications will be done on the HVPS after instructions from Mike. I will also get a modified vertical board and convergence board. With the modified Vim and Neckboards that should rock Some neckboard modifications are new. These neckboards will not be ultra high resolutions but to me that makes no sense to go ultra as I will watch 1080p only.
To me it also makes no sense to start blending or stacking as my screen is not that big and I have enough light. Stacking seems to me to introduce problems only. Better use one hell of a machine But I might change my mind off cause after some compelling arguments
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Hulio
Joined: 15 Apr 2006 Posts: 469 Location: Belgium
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Link Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 6:53 pm Post subject: |
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Guys, about mountig the fans: there are special designed silicone plugs to do the job. No screws and no chassis contact. For 5 euro you get 20 pieces.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 7:02 pm Post subject: |
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On the Barco I tried Fans from a different chassis with those mounting plugs. That was a lot of work to get these fans on but the result was not better than the original rubber coupled screws.
I really think that having a contact over the whole edge damps the vibrations better. But that can be combined with these plugs.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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Ok finally I got the glycol changed in the blue tube. Also the bellow was changed and the screws with washers.
I had some trouble getting all the stuff out of the glycol and had to do a filtering on red and blue. Red has a new c-element.
Seems I have three perfect tubes now. Green and red new and blue with very little hours and new bellows/screws/glycol.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 2:51 pm Post subject: |
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This is how blue used to be.
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stridsvognen Guest
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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Always nice with a good set of tubes..
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Fri Dec 26, 2014 9:09 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks!
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 1:08 am Post subject: |
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Damn I got the new glycol discolouring.
This is the blue tube with new glycol and it turned yellow in a week.
For comparison this is another tube where I did not change the glycol.
I made a new mixture 70/30 to the left and the old mixture is tot the right. Clearly the old mixture has discoloured in the bottle.
This is the ethylene glycol and the glycerine that I bought.
Does this look familiar to anybody? Is there an explanation for the discolouring? Wrong type of glycol or contamination?
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Nashou66
Joined: 12 Jan 2007 Posts: 16171 Location: West Seneca NY
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 2:16 am Post subject: |
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Did you clean out the chamber very very well? Did you clean out the fill holes and use stainless steel screws to replace the old
black metal screws? Those two small holes are usually the source of contamination. If not cleaned well they will be the start
of yellowing.
Also is that done with a new bellow? The new bellow must be cleaned well to remove any left over release agent from the manufacturing process . That too can lead to yellow and crystals in the glycol.
Athanasios
_________________ Don't blame your underwear for your crooked ass~ unknown Greek philosopher
"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan
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Marquee Modifications and Performance Enhancement
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 8:06 am Post subject: |
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I cleaned everything with water. Distiled water for the chamber. I had the distilled water in to check for leaks. The old glycol was not yellow but had some stuff in it.
New bellow.
New screws.
Fill holes is a possible source but the old glycol was not yellow.
Is it nessesary to clean the new bellow with alcohol or something? I cleaned with tap water.
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stridsvognen Guest
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 10:50 am Post subject: |
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Its most likely from the new below, you need to wash it in hot sulfo water, rub it hard with a brush all over, and repeat it 2-3 times, and it stops coloring the water.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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stridsvognen wrote: | Its most likely from the new below, you need to wash it in hot sulfo water, rub it hard with a brush all over, and repeat it 2-3 times, and it stops coloring the water. |
That seems to be a reasonable explanation that some residu has to be cleaned from the bellow.
I am doing some little experiment with a bit new mixture and a few drops of oil to see if oil does something but I think it must be something else in the residu?
Next to that I have the pure mixture form the bottles and the yellow mixture that was a left over but had seen the inside of the chamber. Now I need to wait a week to see what happens. If I have enough time I will make a new mixturen and put the bellow in to see if that bottle will turn yellow. We have to know!
I will check the red and green to see if they are still allright. They seem allright but with the c-elements it is difficult to be sure. I know I did a bit of the contaminated glycol in the red so I hope it was to little.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 3:04 pm Post subject: |
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The left is the new mixture, than some glycol I took from red, than some glycol with a few drups oil, than the leftover glycol that has been one day in the blue chamber, than the glycol I took from the blue chamber.
The good news is that the red glycol seems ok. The green seems ok too.
The far right shows that the glycol from the blue is very very very contaminated. It really looks very yellow.
So very probable I need to clean the bellow. Just use dishwasher or green soap I understand (=sulfo)?
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stridsvognen Guest
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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This is what i use, you might like to use concentrated soap on the below first, rub it good and flush it off with hot water, its very efficient to remove oil and nicotine.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 3:30 pm Post subject: |
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Ok. Do you know what the max temp is before the rubber looses its shape? PVC goes bad at 60 degrees and hot water is a problem than. Most rubers can stand high temperatures. Is 80 degrees celsius tap water no danger?
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stridsvognen Guest
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 3:34 pm Post subject: |
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redfox001 wrote: | Ok. Do you know what the max temp is before the rubber looses its shape? PVC goes bad at 60 degrees and hot water is a problem than. Most rubers can stand high temperatures. Is 80 degrees celsius tap water no danger? |
I never experienced any problems using 50-60C hot water.
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redfox001
Joined: 16 Mar 2009 Posts: 2251 Location: The Netherlands
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 3:51 pm Post subject: |
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Ok one more question just to be sure. Does the c-element or the tube face have a coating that could be damaged?
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stridsvognen Guest
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Link Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2015 3:54 pm Post subject: |
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redfox001 wrote: | Ok one more question just to be sure. Does the c-element or the tube face have a coating that could be damaged? |
If it was me i would take the below all off again, start all over.
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