CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

[Audio_Geek_00]

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I am replacing tubes on my 1252 and I have a question if anyone knows. When removing the old tube and taking off the deflection yoke and the tube necks can I use the old tube location on the new tube, or is there some post install adjustment I need to do to get that right. I hope its not the latter. I'm hope that they will work on the new setup as they did on the old one. anyone have any insight?

Thanx
Tim

[Curt Palme]

Sorry, I was late in responding to your email, btu I'll respond here.

Yes, the approx location will be the same between tubes. Basically, everything slides up to the bell of the tube. The front-most yoke determines the rotation of the picture. Always use the green as your reference. Put up the crosshatch when it's all togehter, and see if the green tube image is level. Probably not. If not, then rotate that front yoke slightly opposite of the direction that the tilt is. A tiny bit of rotation on the yoke is a lot on the screen. I'd turn the set off while rotating the yoke, then fire it up again, as the bare connections on those yokes can bite.

The biggest thing you'll be dealing with is twofold:

1) HV leads. When taking out the old wire, pull back on the rubber boot where the wire goes into the splitter. Push down HARD on the wire, and rotate CCW about 90 degrees. There's a tiny lock at the tip of the wire, if you don't unlatch it within the splitter, you can pull the wire out of the metal tip, and it's a bitch trying to get that tip out. If the wire doesn't pull out when you tug GENTLY, then the tip hasn't released. Push down again and rotate again while pushing and then try pulling up. ONce you release one, you'll find the others are easier to do. Once in a while one will take 5-6 tries to release.

2) The surgical type tape under the yokes is now 20 years old, and chances are the yokes have really bound to it, so they will appear to be sealed to the tubes.

Loosen the clamps holding the yokes in place, grab the yoke firmly, and twist. You need to break the seal between the yoke and tape, which can be a pain. Worst case, take the metal clamp off completely, and force a screwdriver between the yoke and the tape to release the yoke. There's 6 tabs I think under the clamp. Again, once you do one, you'll figure the rest out.

Post again if you have any issues.

[Curt Palme]

Sorry, I was late in responding to your email, btu I'll respond here.

Yes, the approx location will be the same between tubes. Basically, everything slides up to the bell of the tube. The front-most yoke determines the rotation of the picture. Always use the green as your reference. Put up the crosshatch when it's all togehter, and see if the green tube image is level. Probably not. If not, then rotate that front yoke slightly opposite of the direction that the tilt is. A tiny bit of rotation on the yoke is a lot on the screen. I'd turn the set off while rotating the yoke, then fire it up again, as the bare connections on those yokes can bite.

The biggest thing you'll be dealing with is twofold:

1) HV leads. When taking out the old wire, pull back on the rubber boot where the wire goes into the splitter. Push down HARD on the wire, and rotate CCW about 90 degrees. There's a tiny lock at the tip of the wire, if you don't unlatch it within the splitter, you can pull the wire out of the metal tip, and it's a bitch trying to get that tip out. If the wire doesn't pull out when you tug GENTLY, then the tip hasn't released. Push down again and rotate again while pushing and then try pulling up. ONce you release one, you'll find the others are easier to do. Once in a while one will take 5-6 tries to release.

2) The surgical type tape under the yokes is now 20 years old, and chances are the yokes have really bound to it, so they will appear to be sealed to the tubes.

Loosen the clamps holding the yokes in place, grab the yoke firmly, and twist. You need to break the seal between the yoke and tape, which can be a pain. Worst case, take the metal clamp off completely, and force a screwdriver between the yoke and the tape to release the yoke. There's 6 tabs I think under the clamp. Again, once you do one, you'll figure the rest out.

Post again if you have any issues.

[Audio_Geek_00]

Hey Curt,
I broke off all 3 connectors on the HV cables. I managed to get the pieces out after about a good hour of devising a method of getting hold of them. I figured out also that the clamps and the tape had just about become one. That was easier to get apart than the HV leads I should have dug deeper into your sight as that is addressed.

I've got the red tube hardware transferred to the new tube and I have it installed it. Sony made these pjs to work on. Once you dig into it I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to get parts out of the way to gain access to other parts. I took a lot of pictures so that I know which connectors go where and how the assemblies fit with each other, but honestly once I got the first tube out and did the hardware swap things will go faster now.

So other than getting the green tube horizontal is there anything I will have to do with the other parts that fit on the tube? Or anything else I will need to do once I get everything installed?

Not looking forward to getting that beast back on the ceiling.

Thanks Curt.

Tim

[Audio_Geek_00]

everything is together (left the lenses off to reduce weight). Waiting for my help to get here to do the lift.

[CasetheCorvetteman]

You tested it before you put it back up?

[Audio_Geek_00]

I turned it on to make sure that the tubes work and I could see the menu in each tube. I've read that I may need to make sure each tubes image is centered. They look close but I don't know. I've left the lenses off in case I do need to adjust. Any insight greatly appreciated.

Thanx,
Tim

[Audio_Geek_00]

The outline of the image on the tubes is trapezoidal. I don't remember what the other tubes looked like. I think I will need to read up.

[Audio_Geek_00]

Did some electronic adjustments and now the image is no longer trapezoidal. I panicked a bit. I will work on getting the tubes level to one another staring with the green and go through the focusing and convergence. I'm excited to see what the differences are going to be like. More later...

Best,
Tim

[ecrabb]

The trapezoid shape is normal, and is the result of keystone correction. Your active image will end up in a trapezoid shape unless you're mounting the projector on the screen's orthogonal center (i.e. straight out from the center of the screen).

SC

[Audio_Geek_00]

After making sure the PJ fired up and i was getting an image on the new tubes we hoisted the PJ up and remounted it. I left the lenses off to reduce weight. It was getting late but I wanted to see how at least one of the tubes looked with an image so I installed the lens for the green tube to see how far out of horizontal it was. It is quite close but the focus was out. I tried with both adjustments on the lense to get it right and was unable to. It would seem that the image is out of the range of the lens. Did I pit something together wrong? Is there and electronic adjustment I need to do? Is there an adjustment on the neck that I need to do? I am at a loss. Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks,
Tim

[ecrabb]

Focus controls…

http://www.curtpalme.com/Sony125x_Layout2.shtm

You'll want to iterate. Focus optical rough, then do electronic focus, then go back to optical, and iterate back and forth until you can't make it any sharper.

SC

[Audio_Geek_00]

Thanx SC. I will do as you suggest. I'm happy that I don't have to dissassmble something again. I remembered something about focus but the best I could do last night is stare at the remote and wonder why I couldn't find it there. Appreciate you steering me straight. I'll update tonight.

Best,
Tim

[Audio_Geek_00]

I was able to get the green focused quite nicely, and better than with the old tubes. That bodes well with the rest of the setup. Tomorrow I'll get the other two lenses installed and work on them. Good support here! More later.

Tim

[Audio_Geek_00]

I spent four hours on getting the focus and convergence done. It has more work to do but it will have to wait until the weekend. But my initial impressions is I love the brightness and the clarity
Thanx to Curt and SC for the help along the way. It was more doable than I thought it would be and it was fun!

Best
Tim

[ecrabb]

Congrats! Retubing a machine - even an AC Sony 12xx - is no small task. Good job! Amazing what a difference a fresh set of tubes makes, isn't it?

Did you not have to move the coils at all? When I retubed a 1272 I had, a couple of the rasters ended up just enough out of level that I decided to loosen the coils and straighten everything out. Then, since I nervously had my hand in there with the high voltage anyway, I learned how to do astig (flare), too. Not too scary if you're just careful and keep one hand behind your back.

SC

[Audio_Geek_00]

And yes, the new tubes are very "fresh" looking. I did have to move the coils on all three tubes. I know what you mean when your reaching up there with a potential to get zapped. I wore a glove when doing it. I tried turning the system off, adjusting, and turning it back on. I liked the real time adjustment better Keeps you on your toes.

There is definitely more I need to do. I need to read up some more and try to understand some of the challenges I had getting the outer edges of the grid patterns horizontal and vertical. They are close but not where I want them to be. When you re-tubed your machine, did the new tubes drift a little before settling in? Did you have to tweak it after a period of time? I'm just curious. I'll likely let them get some time on them before I attempt the next round of fine tuning.

I showed some co-workers the pictures I was taking while making the transplant and they thought I was nuts to even attempt it. I kinda felt like I was too, but Curt assured me that is can be done and he was right. It was a fun project. I'll post some pictures later.

Tim