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Best price for Stewart StudioTek 130 material

 
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matt697845




Joined: 25 May 2013
Posts: 39



PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 9:48 pm    Post subject: Best price for Stewart StudioTek 130 material Reply with quote


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OK so I've decided on Stewart StudioTek 130 as the screen Material for my G90 setup cause I want nothing but the best results. I'm hoping to keep costs down by getting just the material and building the frame myself if possible. Not sure about size yet, better too big then too small as masking off unused portion would be trivial. So wheres the best place to order just the material? anybody got any used for sale?

Thanks!

Matt
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Nashou66




Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think they sell it with out the frame.



Nashou

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CIR Engineering




Joined: 25 Aug 2008
Posts: 4264
Location: Chicago USA & Berlin Germany


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 4:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

AVS forum usually has the best prices on Stewart materials. I will point out that the savings of material only over the economy frame is not much... And then the delux frame is only another couple hundred more than that. It's not worth building your own frame if you are buying new.

craigr

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matt697845




Joined: 25 May 2013
Posts: 39



PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't see any products for sale on AVS Forum, it looks like just a forum to me? Anyway I think I've come to the conclusion that ST130 is just out of my price range. I simply can't justify spending more on a screen than I did on the G90+repairs+upgraded green C+cables. I did however run across this thread there:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1499122/screen-sample-shoot-out-jkp-hd-progressive-1-1-and-1-3-studiotek-130-carada-bw#post_23953015

The Stewart Neve material still looks pretty nice and the price is alot nicer. What do you think? Here's some for sale including frame:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=943701&is=REG&Q=&A=details

16:10 is my preferred ratio cause that's what i'm used to on my Sony FW900 widescreen CRT monitor; this setup will be used primarily for PC gaming use and 16:10 is a common PC ratio. It would also allow more use of tube height on the G90 vs 16:9 or an even wider scope ratio. For HDTV or movies I'd just mask off the top and bottom portion of the screen. What would be a good size of this type of screen for use with the G90? Like I said i'd rather it be a little too big than too small, but I'd rather not waste money on something massively over sized. By the way, lighting will be totally controlled, black rug, walls, ceiling.

This is all new to me, but I expect it to turn out wonderful in the end.

Thanks!

Matt
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Nashou66




Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

look at Seymore material.

Glacier White 1.3 gain is new. Not sure how good it is but their other screen are well regarded.

They also come in a Lace and Grommet style which is easy to build a screen with conduit. I'll post pics
or find the link to my screen build thread for you.


http://www.seymourav.com/screens.asp


EDIT, I'll add my screen build procedure here for you.

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=230517#230517

Nashou66 wrote:
Ok here is what I decided on after walking around home Depot for over an hour. I Bought some copper pipe standoff's that look like Cones with the clasp on them for the pipe. I am putting these into the wall studs every 32 inches and in the corners. so far this is what i did in an hour.

Use of a laser level is awesome!!!

Copper Pipe Stand Offs


Use of laser level to mark stud location and keep top of frame level.

As you can see the center of my screen is almost the same as the stud !!!





I am hoping the side conduits fall onto a stud but I don't thing so, but I am lucky, the other side of the theater wall is bare, just insulation so I can add stud in the correct location! Wink

Athanasios


Nashou66 wrote:
Ok frame is up, taking a break for now. Some pics for others to get an idea. I really like this solution of using the Copper pipe standoffs. Glad I looked up in my basement the other day in disgust when I dropped a light bulb I was changing, looked up and there was a copper standoff!! Very Happy









Here are a close up of the parts






The Finished Frame with me checking it over.





Athanasios



Then you just web the screen with rope or you can buy these bungee cords with balls on them that interlock
through a loop.

Amazon has them, click on pic to go to amazon.





Athansios

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ecrabb
Forum Moderator



Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

matt697845 wrote:
I don't see any products for sale on AVS Forum, it looks like just a forum to me? Anyway I think I've come to the conclusion that ST130 is just out of my price range. I simply can't justify spending more on a screen than I did on the G90+repairs+upgraded green C+cables. I did however run across this thread there:

People use the two "AVS" terms interchangeably, but they're two totally different companies… AVS Forum and AV Science.

http://shop.avscience.com/Projection-Screens_c_49.html

ST130 is expensive. It's excellent, but it's expensive. That's why Athanasios is suggesting you look at Seymour, a recommendation I would second.

matt697845 wrote:
The Stewart Neve material still looks pretty nice and the price is alot nicer. What do you think? Here's some for sale including fram

16:10 is my preferred ratio cause that's what i'm used to on my Sony FW900 widescreen CRT monitor; this setup will be used primarily for PC gaming use and 16:10 is a common PC ratio. It would also allow more use of tube height on the G90 vs 16:9 or an even wider scope ratio. For HDTV or movies I'd just mask off the top and bottom portion of the screen. What would be a good size of this type of screen for use with the G90? Like I said i'd rather it be a little too big than too small, but I'd rather not waste money on something massively over sized. By the way, lighting will be totally controlled, black rug, walls, ceiling.


If you're going to be doing a lot of gaming, a smaller, higher-gain screen is better. The lower the gain, and the larger the screen, the harder you'll have to push contrast, and the more likely it will be you could burn your tubes with a status display or ammo counter. Do a search for my username and keyword "battlefield", and you'll find a pissy thread I posted when I realized I'd burnt the Battlefield ammo counter into the corner of my minty G70 tubes… In probably 100 or so hours of playing that fall/winter/spring after BF was released. I had forgotten to turn the G70 orbit function on, but I wasn't exactly pushing contrast by any means.

EDIT - Found it... Hyperbole alert...
CRT sucks for gaming!!!

Anyway, the Neve material is 1.1-gain, which means you drop about 15% of your brightness from a 1.3-gain material. In that case, I wouldn't go any larger than 8 feet wide. If you go to a real 1.3 gain material, you can go a bit larger, but not much… Maybe 9-feet wide, but watch the contrast setting. If you want a brighter, more vidid picture that really pops, I'd stay with a true 1.3-gain material, and try to stay close to 8 feet wide.

Call Seymour and check into the new material that Athanasios mentioned. I didn't know they had a 1.3-gain material, but Chris is a really good guy and he'll take care of you. He wouldn't call his material 1.3-gain if it weren't.

SC
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benareeno




Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 1614
Location: ottawa, canada


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have owned a Studiotek and a Seymour...I actually prefer the Seymour for video, for some reason...plus, the ability to put speakers behind the screen is a lot more in line with "the best results"...than having a supposedly better screen with speakers above/below and beside the screen.

The video will be equal...although the bias of owning a joe kane screen would likely effect your perceptions. But, realistically, it is just as good. For arguments sake, we might deem a slightly dimmer screen, or a slightly less accurate color pallete.

But, with the Seymour, your audio will be miles better...all three front speakers identical and at the same height. You can't beat that...it works wonders for your theater.
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ecrabb
Forum Moderator



Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Wed Dec 11, 2013 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not surprising, Seymour's new 1.3-gain material is non-AT.

I would completely agree with you Benareeno on the "AT is better" sentiment. There is nothing good about having speakers flanking your screen on three sides, or your center channel either 18-inches off the floor or jammed against the ceiling. It's just all a bunch of undesirable, IMHO.

Until you experience the magic that is AT with the speakers hidden behind the screen, you just don't understand how truly awesome it is.

Some guys around here seriously undervalue audio, and use (relatively) low-light-output projectors though, so it's not a big surprise that there isn't much excitement around AT scope.

Of course, if the OP is more concerned with a bright image than he is with audio, the 1.3-gain Seymour material might be right up his alley.

SC


Last edited by ecrabb on Thu Dec 12, 2013 12:24 am; edited 1 time in total
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Nashou66




Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve...um Jask? it was ben who posted...are you feeling ok? lol Wink

nashou

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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 12:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oops. There, I fixed it.

Hey, they're both from Canada… What do you want?

SC
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matt697845




Joined: 25 May 2013
Posts: 39



PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lots of great advice here, thanks guys.

I really like what Seymour has to offer and their prices are much more in line with what I realistically hoped to spend. Benareeno, what you say about AT material really makes me think that's the way to go, as long as it isn't significantly dimmer or has a texture that draws a lot of attention to itself. So for now I'll be getting samples of Seymour AT Center Stage XD 1.2 and their Non-AT Glacier White 1.3.

When I said "best possible results", what I really meant is that I'd be avoiding lame options like "specialized" paint or countertop formica. However, as long as it looks good, its good enough for me. Having less than ideal "color accuracy" doesn't bother me in the slightest. Id hate to think what the numbers and graphs would look if my Sony GDM-FW900 monitor was analyzed for accuracy.. Embarassed But its bright, the black level is excellent, the low brightness details are there so its's "good enough" for me.

Thanks, a lot,

Matt
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benareeno




Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 1614
Location: ottawa, canada


PostLink    Posted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

interesting how birds of a feather flock together...I still regularly look to find a fw900 to this day. I'm just to cheap to pay 400 or 500 dollars for it, which seems to be the going rate.

I've also auditioned the studiotek screen which you are interested in...and I spent days and hours trying to find a source for the raw material Smile Funny! My cheapness drove me to the seymour...and it's simply a good screen...but, you have to ensure the area behind it is blacked out, or it won't be a good screen.

I had a dalite cinema vision screen a few years ago...and, I think...just maybe, I preferred it to the studiotek.

I am doing a lot of research lately into bias...and I think if we know we are watching a Joe Kane screen, we will simply like it better. And, I don't mean we will sayyyyy we like it better. But, the bias effect will help us to believe we like it better too. It may, in fact...be better....but for the price premium, I just can't accept that it is that much better than a Seymour, and the AT ability is just huge in my books.

And, on the audio side...I have discovered a few absolute truths which I share to mixed reviews Smile So called "center speakers" are an absolute joke...unless you use 3 of them in vertical orientation. Whatever your mains are, you should have an identical center...and all speakers should be oriented vertically. I have tested this many times...identical center speaker is very, very important. And, I mean identical...the exact same speaker as your mains.

Marketers are so effective that they have people thinking in some way that a horizontal speaker is appropriate for the center channel. It's always a compromise...simple as that. Speakers are vertical because they sound best in a vertical arrangement. You can test this with any setup...lie the speaker on their sides, and have someone re-orient them vertically as you listen.

I would also say that I was extremely skeptical of modern receivers and their room eq features, etc. I have tried a couple...namely a Pioneer and a Harman Kardon. The pioneer eq setup made my system sound very cohesive...better than anything I've had before. Although, I could tell the amp didn't have huge guts...the sound was really nice. Very natural sounding...and the bass was just right too. Highs were never fatiguing, which is often a problem in my basement room.

THe Harman wasn't as huge of a difference, but still worth while.
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matt697845




Joined: 25 May 2013
Posts: 39



PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ecrabb,

When you say I should stick with an 8' to 9' wide screen, did you mean diagonally or horizontally?
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ecrabb
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Joined: 13 Mar 2006
Posts: 15909
Location: Utah

TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010


PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

96-inch wide to 108-inch wide. Wide implies horizontal. Here's some ballpark numbers...

8-foot-wide
96x54 = 5184
5184 / 144 = 36
350 lumens * 1.3 gain / 36 sqft = 12.6 fL

Now, watch what happens to brightness going up just one foot more width:
9-foot-wide
108x60.75 is 6561 sq inches.
6561 / 144 = 45.56 sq ft
350 lumens * 1.3 gain / 45.5 sqft = 10 fL

You lose 20% of your brightness going from 8-foot to 9-foot. You could get away with a 9-foot wide screen in a fully-light controlled room with dark walls, and if you don't mind driving the tubes a little harder, but you better have a real 1.3-gain material.

Will the G90 be on the floor or ceiling? How close do you plan to sit to your screen?

SC
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matt697845




Joined: 25 May 2013
Posts: 39



PostLink    Posted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be using Seymour "Glacier White" 1.3 gain screen, unless you don't consider this to be a true 1.3 gain screen. The G90 will be on the ceiling using the Sony PSS-90 mount. I'll probably play with it on the floor for a while first though till I figure out a way to hoist it to the ceiling. Which brings me to my next question, how far back should the front edge of the PSS-90 mount be from the wall that the screen is on to get an 8 foot wide image, assuming screen is flush with wall and maximum raster usage.? Also how close is the default 120" lens toe in for this.? I'd like to base my install off this if possible, that'd be one less adjustment to worry about since this is my first time ever doing this. The manual does not specify whether "120" is referring to horizontal or diagonal inches. As far as screen, I'll just get one much larger then necessary, then masking off the unused area once setup is complete, this should make installation dimensions less critical.
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