CurtPalme.com Home Theater Forum

garyfritz · Joined: 08 Apr 2006 Posts: 12026 Location: Fort Collins, CO

That "Dragon's Breath" looks stunning! I'd love to see that in person. Kal, please post detailed pix when you get it!

**kal** · Posted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 5:24 pm Post subject:

**kal** · Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 2:02 pm Post subject:

We're putting a sliding barn-door style sliding door at the bottom of the stairs using this hanging hardware:

Link: [Cordia] European Modern Stainless Wood Sliding Barn Door Hardware Set

To make sure the sliding bar hardware would be well supported, I reinforced a bunch of the framing with 2x4's:

You don't want to hang a door only from drywall. While there are 5 connection points where the rod will be supported, having a good backing all the way across means you don't have to worry about hitting a stud. It also lets the screw spacing be even.

Yesterday they hung the drywall:

The bathroom (photo above) is the only room drywalled with moisture resistant drywall (the green stuff) and cement board for the shower. Everywhere else was standard 1/2" drywall.

I noticed that in at least a couple of spots I could see (the wall behind the home theater screen and rack) they actually used a bead of PL adhesive first between the drywall and the studs and then screwed. I'm not sure why. Anyone seen this done? I'm sure it gives good adhesion but I'm not sure why just screwing wouldn't be adequate. Maybe it's because the (snallish) room behind the screen will be completely enclosed and they're worried that the walls may move slightly with pumping as the door is opened/closed? No idea. What's odd is that they didn't glue the wall that faces into the furnace room. I'll have to ask when they come back to mud.

Sometimes one trade will make a mistake and leave an apologetic note for the next guy... in this case the drywall hanger broke off a corner and will leave it for the mudder to fix. In this case the mudder is actually his boss and the owner of the company, so it's nice to be polite: Wink

Next step: Mudding.

Kal

WanMan · Joined: 19 Mar 2006 Posts: 10273

Kal, how will you clean up the drywall dust from the floor? I know when I had my basement done I got lucky in that I had the entire basement done in acid-stain[ing of the concrete], which the prep included cleaning that up. I think they sanded the concrete and then put down 1/4" of water and vacuumed it up.

I tried to vacuum it up dry and that was a fruitless effort. Live and learn.

**kal** · Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 8:54 pm Post subject:

**kal** · Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2012 8:56 pm Post subject:

mc86 · Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 8:38 am Post subject:

I've only done a little taping + mudding, so I fully expect I'm missing something here...

That said, interesting how on some of the horizontal joints they stuck a piece of maybe 4"wide drywall in between the tapered edges - I'm guessing this is ~100" ceilings in places? For example, the RHS of the bathroom photo shows this. I'd have thought maybe they'd have preferred to put the non-tapered joint down by the floor where least likely to be noticeable. Seems like they have one big dual-joint to have to feather out on-top and on-bottom the way they did it.

Matt

**kal** · Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 12:24 pm Post subject:

I noticed that too. Drywall sheets are always 4' wide it seems. Whenever the height went past 8' (we have 8'6" ceilings in spots) they would put the extra 6" piece in the middle between the tapered edges as you mentioned.

Here's another shot of the bathroom that shows it clearly on the left side:

I've only done a little bit of drywall hanging/taping/mudding myself (less than 10 sheets) so I'm definitely no expert expert either, but I'm thinking that it's less work to have to tape/mud/sand one slightly wider strip in the middle instead of two narrower ones (one in the middle and then another at the bottom or top). Just a guess! It's all at waist height too so no step or stooping needed either. (?)

Kal

dturco · Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 1:04 pm Post subject:

Yep. It is for all of those reasons,and it make the taping easier and smother also. The middle piece has two tapered factory edges facing the butt ends of the cut piece, making the "mud fill" better because the tapered edges allow for a fill area. That makes for a more uniform seam.

It also make for only two areas to tape, one middle and one top, instead of three, one bottom, one middle, one top. And as you noted, not having to bend down to tape a small area at the bottom is a real time and back saver.

Another reason for the horizontal seam is it hides better, our eyes track the vertical seams more easily then horizontal.

WTS · Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 1276 Location: Calgary

Ah you beat me to all the answers. I've built 2 houses in the last 10 years and I pretty much asked all those questions too. The one I was really surprised when I saw it in the first house was the use of PL to secure the drywall, it saves mudding the screws and it goes up faster, and that's the bottom line, get in and out as fast as possible and move on to the next house.

**kal** · Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 2:15 pm Post subject:

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

I'm a little surprised to see floating seems. I have always tried to avoid them.

**kal** · Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 2:59 pm Post subject:

You mean floating "seams" I take it? What are floating seams? I'm not familiar with the term and Googling didn't come up with anything concrete.

Kal

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

Ha, guess I can't spell today. Your horizontal seams where they pass the wall studs, there is no support behind them. Even taped, if you lean on the wall or it gets pressed against with something, the drywall will flex and crack the joint. That 4" wide piece may even break. Go and press it in between the studs with your hand and see it flex. Maybe they just figure it will be fine. Maybe I'm just to anal about it. I just always try to avoid them.

**kal** · Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 3:38 pm Post subject:

**kal** · Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 3:54 pm Post subject:

We're installing a Schluter Kerdi-line linear floor drain in the shower. It's a new product that's been out for less than a year it seems.
Also appears overly complex to install based on this video (glad I'm not doing it!):

Installation video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Kh1NU0RcYnM#!
Website: http://kerdi-line.com/
Technical data sheet: http://www.schluter.com/media/KERDI-LINE-ENG.pdf

Three types of grate assembly are available:

- Linear
- Grated
- tiled (you reuse your floor tile)

We prefer the linear look:

Kal

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

macgyver655 · Joined: 22 Aug 2007 Posts: 8508

Don't get me wrong though Kal. I'm trying to say it was done wrong. It was just that the quality of work done so far looks top notch. This one just surprised me.

dturco · Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2012 4:46 pm Post subject:

WanMan · Joined: 19 Mar 2006 Posts: 10273

FYI, they do make drywall in 54" wide sheets. A lot of construction in the past decade around me included 9' tall ceiling and this was handled with 54" wide sheets. Unfortunately, they are not typically or easily found in lengths greater then 8' nor in thicker sheets.

I'm trying to figure out that shower pan thing. Is it a poured concrete slab, or something else? I really like it and would find it interesting in even larger sizes.