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Convince me to go CIH! (and what size screen?)
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dvh99



Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 1955
Location: nederland


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote


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have you seen a black diamond screen in person?

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dvh99



Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 1955
Location: nederland


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you can order any screen size you want, my guess is that most if not all of their screens are custom made.
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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 20959
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Yep. Just to piss you off.

It's either that or get an 8 x 5 grid array of Sony F520 CRT monitors. I think that would look cool. Wink

Kal


Ohhhh NOW we're talking. You know I may just have that many G520's Wink

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Spanky Ham



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 3904
Location: Comedy Central


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will start with the Black Diamond. It really isn't worth it in a light controlled and properly treated room. If you have light colored walls or in a living room, then a BD has some merit. DNP also makes some nice screen for that type of environment.

Dave brought up what I was going to mention and that is CIA. For your theater, that might be better since you say you watch a lot of 16x9. Mark_A_W made a 4 way masking systtem that you could try and probably would not cost a lot. I think Craig did one as well. Instead of using an A-lens and if 817p bothered you, you could go to the pseudo 4k on the JVC RS55.

For the screen, I would try to see if I could use a Hi Power. Looking at the Model C page, you have two options 65"x116" for $804 retail or 78"x139" for $1k. I know Dave and I talked about this in the past, but I am a brightness junkie. It seems like a brighter image can help make up for the lower on/off cr. I remember seeing 20ft/lmbs on a 14 foot wide screen and not really thinking about the lack of on/off cr.
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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4901
Location: Flower Mound, TX


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dvh99 wrote:
have you seen a black diamond screen in person?


Not in someone's home theater properly set up. We have dozens of SI dealers here and a couple had them in a demo room. They were showing it off as a solution for ambient light situations, but I was able to turn the lights low. I was not overly impressed with it as a solution for a light controlled room, and even with this screen, performance in ambient light is good, but not as good as a light controlled room. If you don't have a light controlled room, front projection is not the solution for you.

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A train station is where the train stops. A bus station is where the bus stops. On my desk, I have a work station....


Last edited by Person99 on Tue Oct 18, 2011 10:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4901
Location: Flower Mound, TX


PostLink    Posted: Tue Oct 18, 2011 10:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spanky Ham wrote:
I know Dave and I talked about this in the past, but I am a brightness junkie. It seems like a brighter image can help make up for the lower on/off cr. I remember seeing 20ft/lmbs on a 14 foot wide screen and not really thinking about the lack of on/off cr.


And I certainly see the merit of this as brighter looks better. And I think you are OK like 80%+ of the time, it is just those low APL scenes like the beginning of Gladiator that look a bit washed out--a bit more than I like.

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Dave

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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 1221
Location: Calgary


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 12:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where do you buy WilsonArt in Canada?
What dimensions is it available in?
What surface finish is best to use?

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WanMan



Joined: 19 Mar 2006
Posts: 9668



PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
WanMan wrote:
Kal, I bought into what I figured was a CIH-safe 10' wide 2.35 Seymour screen. When I popped Avatar into the player I realized (again) it is 16:9 and it made me want a 10' wide 1.78 screen. I probably sat there for a good 5-6 minutes wondering how I would handle two AT screens of that width, but one of each aspect.

I then remembered that at the time of my purchase, Seymour didn't offer a 1.78 screen in 10' width. That may have changed.


Good point. So are you regretting your CIH screen purchase? If a 10' wide 1.78 screen had been available at the time would you have purchased it instead? What projector are you running?

While I'm not a big fan of the movie, Avatar's a good example of the sort of movie that is supposed to appear 'epic' in scale and immersive but will actually look smaller on a lot of CIH screens for people. This is one of my concerns.

I'd have to go with a 10.5' wide CIH screen to make 16x9 movies appear the same size as on my 8' wide 16x9 screen today. But I actually want these 16x9 movies to appear bigger too, so I *think* would like a 10' wide 16x9 screen or at least 9' wide 16x9 screen.

I completely understand the relative size issues of going from 2.35 to 16x9 movies... I understand that "When Harry met Sally" is shown on a 16x9 screen that it'll appear 'bigger' than "Laurence of Arabia" because of this. I understand that this goes against SMPTE rules. I'm not sure I care. Wink

Kal
Had there been an option I am sure I would have strongly considered it. Keep in mind that since I was going AT that meant I did not need to leave room for L/R speakers. My walls, ceiling, and floor are really dark and I was not too concerned with light reflect as the output to fill the screen (even on a zoomed-in 2.35 screen) was already appealing to my light-sensitive eyes.

But then you must also recognize the question of masking since not all content is constant. For instance, while I do not watch D* on my JVC, I do own several Blu-ray sets of TV shows in HD, and these are in 1.78. Had I had a 1.78 10' wide screen I'd be 'in the picture'. I've had that feeling before sitting in front of Terry's 126" torus screen (while watching T5E).

But I did follow the advice someone gave me, which was to buy in the format you expect most of your content to be in. I would say if you have 75& in one format then shoot for it.

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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4901
Location: Flower Mound, TX


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WTS wrote:
Where do you buy WilsonArt in Canada?
What dimensions is it available in?
What surface finish is best to use?


Home Depot and Lowes sell it here, I'm sure someplace up there sells it.

IIRC the sheets come in 8', 10', and 12' lengths, but the limiting factor for a screen is the width. I don't recall correctly, but the width is somewhere right around 54". So, you can make a 10' wide CIH screen, but you can't make a 12' wide one.

You get "Designer White"

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Dave

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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4901
Location: Flower Mound, TX


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One note about masking since it has come up. My solution may be a common one, but I had not seen it when I built my CIH screen. Due to the fact I was building a laminate screen, masking was easy to solve. I bought the velvet from eBay for the border, I bought extra for the masking. The way I did the masking was wrapping two foam core sheets cut to appropriate size. Since laminate is solid, I literally just duct taped some magnets to the back of the laminate. On the back of the foam core board, I put washers covered with velvet. To mask, I just pop the panels on, to unmask, I just grab them off. Easy peasy. Less than $40 for a good looking masking solution.
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Dave

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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 12330
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another question for you guys while I ponder all this:

Install closer to the screen (low throw) maximizes light output but minimizes contrast ratio. I want to maximize contrast ratio so i'm assuming that means installing as far back as possible but still keeping reasonable light output.

So how much does contrast ratio vary from one end of the throw range to the other? Is it major? Or very minor? I tried to look for hard/fast numbers for the RS40 but came up blank after a few searches, and don't feel like reading 3000+ page threads. Wink

Edit: I found this:

Quote:
"My throw distance of about 13.5 ft. is toward the short end compatible with a 120" screen (this was intentional). Moving out to 23 ft. throw with a 120" screen would decrease the lumens by approx. 20% compared to my throw distance. I measured approx. a 23% drop in lumens in zooming from shortest throw (i.e. max. zoom) to longest throw (min. zoom)."


So about 23% drop in light output from one end to the other. This was on an RS40.

I then also read this:

Quote:
"You get max. lumens output from the projector at minimum throw distance (i.e., using max. zoom). Going to the other extreme of max. throw distance, and thus using minimum zoom, will provide a somewhat higher contrast ratio, but at the cost of overall brightness. The occurs because the f-stop of the lens changes as you zoom. However, if using max. zoom you can use the manual iris to stop down (change the f-stop) the lens (which also increases the contrast ratio) if you find the brightness too high in 2D mode, but for 3D you generally want to get all of the lumens you can get (iris fully open and lamp set to high)."


So this had me thinking: Is it better to do that (install digitals as CLOSE as possible to the screen and just stop down the lens when the bulb is new) or install a digital farther back and increase the contrast over time?

Kal

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Person99



Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4901
Location: Flower Mound, TX


PostLink    Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as TD is concerned, there is another factor. If you are using an anamorphic lens, the further back the projector then better the image (the less color fringing and such). So, if you consider an anamorphic lens, you could factor that in.

My PJ is installed at a fairly short throw as the longest throw for my PJ put it at a bad spot--and again, I don't find the fringing that bad.

As far as CR, in normal viewing I didn't notice a big difference between close and far on my PJ as I tried both.

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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
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Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two more questions:

1. How are studios doing with keeping subtitles within the active image area for Blu-ray movies? This is a must-have for anyone with a CIH setup. (I tend to watch a larger percentage of foreign films than probably the average person. I've never really paid attending if the subs are inside or outside the active image area since on a 16x9 I always see them.)

2. How do you CIH guys handle a movie like Dark Knight that has variable aspect ratio? You can probably count the number of movies like this on one hand (not much of an issue), but I'm curious nonetheless.

Kal

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WTS



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 1221
Location: Calgary


PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks I'll have a look at those stores.
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HogPilot



Joined: 21 Jan 2010
Posts: 1468


TV/Projector: JVC RS55, Pioneer Elite Pro-151FD & 111FD


PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kal wrote:
Two more questions:

1. How are studios doing with keeping subtitles within the active image area for Blu-ray movies? This is a must-have for anyone with a CIH setup. (I tend to watch a larger percentage of foreign films than probably the average person. I've never really paid attending if the subs are inside or outside the active image area since on a 16x9 I always see them.)


It's hit or miss, more miss than hit though. The Oppo BDP-80, 83, 93, and 95 all are capable of moving the subtitles up into the active image for CIH. I believe there is a Philips BD player out there that can do the same thing too.

kal wrote:
2. How do you CIH guys handle a movie like Dark Knight that has variable aspect ratio? You can probably count the number of movies like this on one hand (not much of an issue), but I'm curious nonetheless.

Kal


Most CIH guys will project these movies at 2.39:1, accepting that they're cropping the scenes shot in 70MM/IMAX. The only other option is to switch ARs on the fly, which would be incredibly distracting and annoying if you ask me.

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Spanky Ham



Joined: 22 Mar 2006
Posts: 3904
Location: Comedy Central


PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 3:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Cine4home measures cr for both min and max throw. You could check their reviews.
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wildchild22



Joined: 16 Aug 2008
Posts: 165



PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

for subtitles you can always remux the films to a bd folder using tsmuxer and use bdsup (a java program) to move the subs inside the active image area.


here is a google doc that is updated frequently that lists if subs are cih scope friendly.
https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=t8Xb85eyNFtZ3vaNK8gqkbQ&single=true&gid=0&output=html
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Ridebreck



Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 943
Location: Colorado Springs, CO


PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Digital / CRT...meh. What about the brewery, man?
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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 12330
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-RS56


PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wildchild22 wrote:
for subtitles you can always remux the films to a bd folder using tsmuxer and use bdsup (a java program) to move the subs inside the active image area.


here is a google doc that is updated frequently that lists if subs are cih scope friendly.
https://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=t8Xb85eyNFtZ3vaNK8gqkbQ&single=true&gid=0&output=html

That is way too much work for what's likely just watching a movie once (IMHO).

Ridebreck wrote:
Digital / CRT...meh. What about the brewery, man?

Smile Yep. Got that to work on as well. Right now everything's up in the air as to what goes where (HT/bar/brewery). I've got a basement designer guy coming in next week to start discussions. I have my own ideas, we'll see what he thinks. They're a design/build firm so it's not just some contractor who builds to a plan.

Kal

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wildchild22



Joined: 16 Aug 2008
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PostLink    Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2011 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal if you use a pc for playabck you can use arcsoft tmt5 this allows you to use your mouse to drag and drop the subtitles wherever you want while the movie is playing. This is likely the easiest and cheapest solution.

Maybe curtpalme should start selling oppo bdp-93!!!
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