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Could all my Marquee Arcing problem be Bad silicon choice ??

 
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SweetChuck




Joined: 01 Jun 2007
Posts: 134
Location: Queensland Australia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 12:55 am    Post subject: Could all my Marquee Arcing problem be Bad silicon choice ?? Reply with quote


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My 9500 has be plagued with arcing problems for ages, anyway I just fitted some brand spanking new hv leads and splitter, I've let it cure for a day , and it arcs everywhere , even a load crack , I'm putting this down to the silicon not being cured yet . But i have a horrible thought my silicon is wrong for HV purposes .

Im using Dow Corning 738 (neutral cure)Good dielectric properties(I should think it should be excelent dielectric properties)
Recommended is Dow corning 3145

have I made a huge mistake , The data sheets on the net don't say to much about High Tension applications
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cmjohnson




Joined: 03 Apr 2006
Posts: 5180
Location: Buried under G90s


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A day isn't nearly enough.

Give it a week at least.

You may have to totally redo the seal now. The arcing can cause carbon tracking along the arc path through the silicone, and once
that carbon path is formed, it will ALWAYS arc.

Patience, man. Patience. Silicone takes a week to cure properly for high voltage applications.


CJ
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Nashou66




Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just use the GE silicon II clear stuff.

Athanasios

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Nashou66




Joined: 12 Jan 2007
Posts: 16171
Location: West Seneca NY


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And I agree with Chris also.

Athanasios

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"Republicans believe every day is the Fourth of July, but the Democrats believe every day is April 15." --- President Reagan

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SweetChuck




Joined: 01 Jun 2007
Posts: 134
Location: Queensland Australia


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cmjohnson wrote:
A day isn't nearly enough.

Give it a week at least.

You may have to totally redo the seal now. The arcing can cause carbon tracking along the arc path through the silicone, and once
that carbon path is formed, it will ALWAYS arc.

Patience, man. Patience. Silicone takes a week to cure properly for high voltage applications.


CJ


I would have left it for a week but the hv replacement guide here http://www.curtpalme.com/HV_Lead_Removal.shtm in the advanced section says

4) Push down the rubber cap so that the silicone beads out around the rubber cap. Let the silicone dry for at least 4 hours before powering the set up (or however long the instructions on the silicone say that it takes to dry).

4 Hours Shocked Didn't think that was right , may need to get that changed

So the Dow Corning I'm using is ok ?
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dvh99




Joined: 25 Dec 2009
Posts: 2158
Location: nederland


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 1:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

look at the datasheet, i think yours tells you the properties of the silicone after 7 days.
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mp20748




Joined: 12 Sep 2006
Posts: 5681
Location: Maryland

TV/Projector: 9500LC Ultra / Super 02 and 03 VIM


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nashou66 wrote:
I just use the GE silicon II clear stuff.

Athanasios


Yep. It's the only one I've used that did not require a week to six month cure, with some not working at all and causing the same problem you've having.

For HV, use ONLY GE Silicone II.


I have a NEW set of high voltage wires if you can't clean them up..
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draganm




Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 8990
Location: Colorado


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This keeps coming up. Pure silicone RTV is pure silicone and it's clear. Additives don't significantly change curing time. What changes curing time is temp. and humidity. Full cure is in 24 hours at 70 degrees Farenheit and 50% humidity. If you live in a dry place like I do, average 10% humidity, it can take days. The moisture in the air is what starts the vulcanization process ( RTV = room temp. vulcanization).
To cure it here in 24 to 48 hours I will set the silicone in a warm inside my house place and wrap it with a damp towel. The towel will dry overnight and usually requires re-wetting. Luckily the new stuff is low VOC so it doesn't stink up my living room.
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Sparky015




Joined: 12 May 2009
Posts: 1185
Location: Cleveland / Akron, OH


PostLink    Posted: Sat Dec 04, 2010 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just went through this on my red tube. I used the GE Silicone from the hardware store and let it cure for 3 weeks before I attempted to power up the tube. It still arced badly. The reason is because I used way too much silicone and it got too close to the anode wire. My second repair job with a new HV lead, I used a small bead of caulk around the outer edge of the boot. I let it cure 36 hours, and I've been golden ever since. You don't need a long cure time, but how you apply it absolutely matters.

Also, silicone does not like to bond to silicone, so it's very difficult to reuse a HV lead that got silicone way too close to the anode. If you did this, best to replace it. Curt sells them now and at a very reasonable price that I wouldn't even attempt to reuse an old lead again.

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