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stgdz
Joined: 07 Dec 2008 Posts: 107
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Link Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:04 pm Post subject: So I think I built my walls incorrectly |
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I saw on a construction site that a guy built his studs 8in apart in a staggered configuration and he commented that the sound level from room to room was reduced with double dry wall. What I failed to realize is that the staggered configuration was a top and bottom cap using a 2x6, I used a 2x4 for the top and bottom caps.
So with the little research that I have been doing since the walls have went up, and they aren't going to come down since they are bolted to the floor, what can I do for more sound proofing besides dual sheat rock with green glue in between?
Last edited by stgdz on Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:29 pm; edited 1 time in total
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ecrabb Forum Moderator
Joined: 13 Mar 2006 Posts: 15909 Location: Utah
TV/Projector: JVC RS40, Epson 5010
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Link Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:22 pm Post subject: |
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Have you rocked, yet? If not, you could take out every other stud, add a 2x2 on the header and footer, and re-install the studs. If you didn't want to demo, you could also add a layer if Integrity Gasket to all the framing, but only fasten to every other stud.
If the walls are already assembled and you don't want to do any demolition, then Green Glue and a second layer of gyp is really your best bet and is pretty much the only option. It's not a bad option, though.
My room is done with standard framing (didn't have the money, time, patience, or space for RSIC/hat channel), Integrity Gasket, and double drywall w/Green Glue - 1/2"+1/2" on the walls and 1/2"+5/8" on the ceiling. I'm pretty impressed with the whole thing considering the minimal cost (relatively speaking).
The cost of the isolation I did was probably around $600 - $125 for Integrity Gasket, $250 for Green Glue, $200 for extra drywall and screws, and another weekend of hanging drywall - which SUCKED. The only thing that doesn't sound pretty darn good in my room (AFA isolation) is that I have hardwood in the living room directly above the theater, and footfalls and especially hard/high frequence impact like kids toys come through pretty well because of the lack of mechanical decoupling. I think my room was the next best thing to true room-within-a-room, which would have been much more costly, time-consuming, and used more of my space which was already at a premium.
SC
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stgdz
Joined: 07 Dec 2008 Posts: 107
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Link Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 2:25 pm Post subject: |
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ecrabb wrote: | Have you rocked, yet? If not, you could take out every other stud, add a 2x2 on the header and footer, and re-install the studs. If you didn't want to demo, you could also add a layer if Integrity Gasket to all the framing, but only fasten to every other stud.
SC | No I haven't rock'd yet but I don't know if I want to take out every other stud(I don't feel like doing demolition to it though as it just looks nice).
I have been looking at a material called DB block and possibly running RISC clips.
http://www.controlnoise.com/dbbloc.html
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Clarence
Joined: 08 Mar 2006 Posts: 3793 Location: Smith Mtn Lake, VA
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Link Posted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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ecrabb wrote: | If you didn't want to demo, you could also add a layer if Integrity Gasket to all the framing, but only fasten to every other stud. |
That's the best idea... you don't need a 2" gap, the separation layer of Integrity Gasket would be sufficient (~1/8").
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