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TC1600 and Mitsubishi WS-55905 color/brightness shift

 
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James_Aguirre




Joined: 20 Apr 2008
Posts: 11
Location: United States


PostLink    Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:13 am    Post subject: TC1600 and Mitsubishi WS-55905 color/brightness shift Reply with quote


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I have a Mitsubishi WS-55905 Rear Projection Television set. I have an interesting problem when using the TC1600 or other Component to HDMI converter. The TC1600 worked right out of the box with default settings as far as sync and works great with DirecTV HD reciever and Sony PS3. But for some reasone when watching movies, shows or games I get frequent color/brightness shifts. Basically whenever a scene changes or camera view changes the scene becomes lighter or darker. It changes to frequently for me to tell whether the color settings are being boosed or whether it is contrast or brightness. This does not happen when I run straight component to those sources.

My set can take in either 3 or 5 cables for input depending on the setting. I am currently using the standard 3 cable Component setting. I tried the 5 cable directly from the HDFury RGB output, but had the same problem. I know the problem is not the TC1600 since I have tried the Box 1020 and others with similar results. If anyone has any suggestions I would appreciated it. Rather than attempt to just play with all the settings on the TC1600, I was hoping someone could suggest a starting point. By the way, before I start to change any settings on the TC1600 can someone also tell me how sensitive the pots are? That is am I looking at a fraction of a turn or 1/4 to 1/2 turn for changes.


Thanks for any help you can provide, by the way the TC1600 is a great box, I am curently using it with the HDFury.

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James Aguirre
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beun




Joined: 28 Jun 2006
Posts: 676



PostLink    Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

James,

The pots are 25 turns so not very sensitive. Furthermore, in the automatic setting all pots except for Gamma and V-width are disabled. To enable H-coarse, H-fine and H-width you have to open the box and move the jumper from JP1 to JP2.

Regarding your color/brightness changes I don't know what to say. Since you already have the problem directly at the output of the fury, the problem may be in the source.


Kim

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James_Aguirre




Joined: 20 Apr 2008
Posts: 11
Location: United States


PostLink    Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 4:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Kim,

I am waiting for the new version of the HDFury to see if that makes a difference first. Otherwise I am hoping it is some kind of timing issue. I have read others mention color banding and that could be it, I just wish I had a way to stabilize the problem for better analysis. I will try to see if I can make it happen when using patterns on the Blu-Ray Video essentials disk.

James

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James Aguirre
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Rolls-Royce




Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Location: Victorville, CA


PostLink    Posted: Sat Aug 30, 2008 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

James, it sounds like you may need to adjust the set's Clamp Pulse Phase control, known as CLP in the Mits service menu. It controls how your set locks (clamps) onto a stable brightness level. But it may not be easily accessible. My XX807 model and later ones had this control-and many other important image-quality adjustments-locked out by Mitsubishi. Supposedly, Mitsubishi field techs were going to have special remotes that allowed them access to the locked settings as well as the unlocked ones. Many of us have had to use special I2C software and interface cables to directly change values for these locked controls in the set's EEPROMS. That isn't a process for the faint-of-heart.
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James_Aguirre




Joined: 20 Apr 2008
Posts: 11
Location: United States


PostLink    Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 6:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the Service Menu, Video/Chroma section I have a CLMP-Clamp Pulse Select with a range of 0 or 1 and a CLMW-Clamp Width with range of 0-3. Are either of those what you are referring to and if so what setting would you suggest?
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James Aguirre
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Rolls-Royce




Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Location: Victorville, CA


PostLink    Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

James_Aguirre wrote:
In the Service Menu, Video/Chroma section I have a CLMP-Clamp Pulse Select with a range of 0 or 1 and a CLMW-Clamp Width with range of 0-3. Are either of those what you are referring to and if so what setting would you suggest?


My TV only has a CLP control, but if it were my set, I'd start with CLMP. Set it to whatever it currently ISN'T (i.e., if it's currently 0, set it to 1) and check to see if it fixed the issue. If not, set it back to what it was, and move on to CLMW. Try all 4 settings. If one doesn't work, set it back to the starting point, change CLMP, then run through all 4 again. One of these combinations should do the job and give you a stable picture at all resolutions. Make sure you write down the original settings for both controls before you start so you can get back to them if necessary.

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James_Aguirre




Joined: 20 Apr 2008
Posts: 11
Location: United States


PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 4:42 pm    Post subject: Brightness shifts Reply with quote

Thank you for the suggestion. I tried all the combinations and the problem persists. It is really frustrating since it works perfectly when connected to the components directly using component cables. I guess I will have to live without up scaling or the simplicity of a single cable. Hopefully they won't turn on the copy protection on Blu-Ray discs for a while so I can still take advantage of full resolution. I will wait for the HDFury2 to ship and try it again. I will also try making those adjustments again after hooking the HDFury to the RGBHV connections and setting the TV for that instead of Component, but I am not very optimistic, since I tried using that connection with the previous device and it made no difference. Just for my education, can someone tell me if it is better to use the 3 cable component connection or the 5 cable RGBHV connection on the Mitsubishi? I know it can be set to accept either, but which would or should be better at handling timing?
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James Aguirre
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Rolls-Royce




Joined: 30 Sep 2007
Posts: 288
Location: Victorville, CA


PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

James, I'm thinking that using Component output from the HDFury2 would be the hot setup for you. RGBHV out from the Fury2 would probably be the same as RGBHV from the other unit you've tried. But, who knows? Maybe the HDF2's sync/timing correction will be enough to negate your issues. Try both and let us know what happens.

When I adjusted my CLP control, I was still using component 1080i sources and had no issues. It was one of those things that pro calibrators on the Spot (You know where that is, 'cause you asked the same questions there Wink ) mentioned as a good thing to set in order to avoid severe brightness changes. So I guess I got lucky. Idea: switch your DV input back to component, make the changes, then switch back to RGBHV and check. Maybe making the changes in component mode is needed...

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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Thu Sep 11, 2008 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just stumbled across this post. Usually this fluctuation in color and brightness is caused by the copy protection content. It is not affected by direct component connection but when trying to convert it to another type signal it kicks in.
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beun




Joined: 28 Jun 2006
Posts: 676



PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There should not be any Macrovision signals on analog RGB.
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macgyver655




Joined: 22 Aug 2007
Posts: 8508



PostLink    Posted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 12:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not really much else to explain it.

Has to be something in the signal processing. Its only created under certain circumstances.
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