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Speaker wattage question...
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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26690
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 2:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


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I run 5 Marantz mono block amp's. My front speaker's are rated at 80 watt's and I run 200W into them. They are MUCH happier than being on my old Denon reciever which had 60 W.P.C., likwise my centre channel is rated for 125 watt's and I run 200 into it. My surounds are rated 75 and I run 125 watt's into them. Sounds great, been running it that way for almost 10 years.

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Tom.W




Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 6637



PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 2:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Amplifier clipping can cause serious damage to a perfectly good speaker...

http://sound.westhost.com/clipping.htm
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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 17860
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 3:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Curt Palme wrote:
Give me brute force class AB amps over anything. A good amp weighs 60 lbs minimum..Smile

None of this nancy boy digital switching 1 giga watt per channel, and it only weighs 11 lbs BS for me!


This one's for you Curt:





It's an Anthem P5. Needs 2 power cords if you want to take it to rated power. 130 frickin' pounds.

● RMS Output Per Channel: 325 Watts into 8 Ohms,
500 Watts into 4 Ohms; 675 Watts into 2 Ohms
● MFR: 5 Hz - 150 kHz, +0, -3 dB
● THD: 0.008%
● IMD: 0.00019%
● S/N: 125 dB
● Input Impedance: 18 kOhms (RCA),
22 kOhms (XLR)
● Input Sensitivity: 1 Vrms in for 28.3 Vrms out
(100 W into 8 Ohms)
● Slew Rate: 40 V/µs
● Damping Factor: >600 at 20 Hz,
400 at 1 kHz (ref. 8 Ohms)
● Dimensions: 19.25" H x 9.4" W x 22.5" D
● Weight: 130 Pounds (59 kg)
● MSRP: $4,999 USA

To quote a review:

Quote:
"I am sure the Anthem Statement Series was a dream come true for someone at Anthem. The P5 reviewed here is a five-channel amp that outputs 325 watts per channel into 8 ohms, 500 watts a channel into 4 ohms, an even larger amount into 2 ohms, and is claimed stable to 0 ohms (well 0.05 ohms since there is resistance in anything you place between the outputs). Someone said you could put a fork across the binding posts and make some pretty horrible sounding music for 8 seconds or so until the breaker popped to avoid melting your house wiring.

And the Smoke Stayed In

Being the technical geek I am, I figured one would want to ensure the wheels stayed on in stressful situations, so we started with the stress tests before audio evaluation. As an aside, note you should not try this at home; serious damage could occur to you or your equipment and I am pretty sure you could start a fire. We also asked Anthem specifically if it was fine to use a fork as a speaker. They didn’t say no, leaving us with only a simple warning: use a fork with a long handle, as it might get a little warm.

First task at hand was to pop those little breakers on the top of the amp without tripping the AC breaker in the wall panel. I was pretty sure if I shorted the binding posts together, the ALM circuitry would pop the breaker when it detected the short. Guess what, it didn’t. If you remember the requirement of the ALM, it monitors for temperature, current, and voltage, and even though the output was shorted, the resistance was a very small number like 0.02 ohms. With no signal at the input, the amp was stable with the almost-shorted load. This was impressive, because even a small amount of noise in this situation would cause the output to trip (or burn up) in 90% of amps on the market just due to the current requirements. Increasing the input to 1 volt managed to get the breaker to pop, but not before the fork screeched out some horrible sound (yes a fork will reproduce 1 kHz if you put enough voltage across it and current though it). After about 3 seconds, there was a click, the fork silenced and the little round breaker popped up on top of the amp. I made sure all other four channels still functioned, and they did (as they should since all channels are true mono-blocks). While this test really doesn’t prove much from an audio perspective, it was fun to try, and shows us that the P5 power supplies have enormous capacity."


From: http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_11_4/anthem-statement-p5-amplifier-12-2004.html

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AnalogRocks
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Joined: 08 Mar 2006
Posts: 26690
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada

TV/Projector: Sony 1252Q, AMPRO 4000G


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Increasing the input to 1 volt managed to get the breaker to pop, but not before the fork screeched out some horrible sound (yes a fork will reproduce 1 kHz if you put enough voltage across it and current though it). After about 3 seconds, there was a click, the fork silenced and the little round breaker popped up on top of the amp.



LMAO that's great!

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jask




Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 10165
Location: kamloops BC


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 4:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kal, those pictures.....porn



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kal
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Joined: 06 Mar 2006
Posts: 17860
Location: Ottawa, Canada

TV/Projector: JVC DLA-NZ7


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what it is, but I love to to look at pictures of beefy amps too.... Wink

Here are some more: http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=115486

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Person99




Joined: 09 Mar 2006
Posts: 4901
Location: Flower Mound, TX


PostLink    Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2008 5:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Speaker wattage question... Reply with quote

MYoung wrote:
I just bought an entry-level 5.1 surround sound system in a box (Sony HT-DDW700) for my beater basement home theater setup. It's 900W system -- 140W x 5 + 200W subwoofer.


If that is its spec (not what you tested), you can be relatively sure of a couple things:
1) With all channels driven, it is 40-60 watts per channel.
2) With two channels driven, it is going to be much closer to 100W per channel than 140.

So, if you avoid distortion and clipping, you will be fine.

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jask




Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 10165
Location: kamloops BC


PostLink    Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2008 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

not to hack you or your purchase, but I find that the background noise on most of those systems usually keeps me from turning it up to clipping levels.
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enigma




Joined: 20 Feb 2008
Posts: 24
Location: Australia


PostLink    Posted: Fri May 02, 2008 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Kal, if you like beefy amps, look up Halcro DM-88. it is made here in Australia and internationally acclaimed. It is a monoblock so imagine one of these per speaker!.

Af far as amps go, the transformer is the heart, there is no way a single 200w or 300w transformer in a mini system or receiver can give you 100w across 5 or 7 channels all at once. Don't forget, these transformers also have to power the dacs and other boards in the unit as well.

There are some basic rules on ensuring you have a genuine hi fi sounding surround sound!

Match speakers and amps, a 10 to 20wpc amp with speakers that have a sensitivity of 100db & above can be as loud as a 100w per channel amp with speakers of 86db sensitivity. Those of you with low powered amps look for high sensitive speakers, but remember what Kurt said earlier about klipping - the higher the sensitivity the better. You may be surprised to see that quality low wattage amps and high sensitive speakers are expensive as the usually have tubes and horns. If you see one, such as a single ended triode tube amp, you'll note that it may only be 5w per channel, but the power consumption can be 300w.

Get good quality amps with solid transformers and high current. Also, as Kurt also said, capacitors store current, good amps will have two ore more large capacitors, or several small ones. Now you know why good amps are heavy.

I use a pre amp processor for the surround processing and then have a monoblock (single channel) amplifier on each channel to drive each speaker. Each amp is high current and only 50w per channel on 90db sensitive speakers. I have 100wpc amps that i sometimes use also. In this configuration, each amp is independent and does not rob current from the other under load.

The result is clearer sound and deep strong bass.

By the way, my amp that runs the two front speakers are tube, sweet beautifull sound from several glowing bottles. To put this in perspective, the difference for me with my tube & solid state is the difference you guys see with CRT & digital projectors.

That is why i'm hooked on crt, they are basically tubes of another sort.

Remember, movies will always sound better on a system that was set up for hifi rather than just home theatre alone.
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jask




Joined: 17 Mar 2006
Posts: 10165
Location: kamloops BC


PostLink    Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 3:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Enigma what are you using for your front amps/speakers? and are you doing any bass or low frequency supplementation? Tube audio is fantastic for a lot of music but most modern movies need more low end punch than most tube systems can provide.

there was a post a while back on another forum of a rack full of (home built) tube amps for the authors home theater.... the pics with the lights off and all those tubes glowing was very nice!!

EDIT:
Never mind, I just saw your post in the home theater thread....... now post some pics!!!!
question still stands on the low frequency support...
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enigma




Joined: 20 Feb 2008
Posts: 24
Location: Australia


PostLink    Posted: Sat May 03, 2008 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jask,

Excellent question and precisely goes back to why it is so important to match speakers and amps correctly.

My set up is effecivley a hifi system and home cinema put together and as all the amps are seperate, i can change the combinaton around. It is only 5.1 at the moment, to upgrate to 7.1, i will need a new processor, but only have to add a stereo amp.

All speakers are Focal/JM Lab with one slight exception. The two front ones are focal drivers (same as others) but housed in 30mm thick cabinets made in australia and have 5kg crossovers. They have been made by an Australian designer (osborn).

This designer's speakers have been compared to JM Lab's own designs at CES Las Vegas, and JM Lab's own reps were impressed.

What this means in real terms, apart from an amazing sound, they have an incredible deep solid tight bass as the cabinet is very rigid. I have no problem with bass. A reviewer in the states actually used 5 of them with no subwoofer & was amazed that there was no deficiency.

The amps i am using in current setup are;

Sony TAE9000es pre/processor
Copland Valve Pre
Copland Valve power (stereo) - front L & R
Musical Fidelity Xa50 monoblock front centre
Musical Fidelity Xas100 monoblock - rear L & R

My subwoofer is a Klipsch KSW12 - i never use this in stereo as it spoils it, only use it in multichannel.

Going back to your orig question, Yes there is a difference in the bass between the Copland power amp and Musical Fidelity solid state power amp. Valve amps generally have softer bass and is sometimes why people prefer solid state.

The Musical Fidelity is deeper and more solid, i used to have it on the front speakers. But the copland blows it away every where else. The difference in bass is really trivial at the end of the day.

My Copland is neutral/touch warm, but behaves like a solid state amp. It has large output transformers, large torodial power supply and large capacitors - this is why it blends in well with the solid state amps i have.

Some other valve amp brands may at times not be the right match.

Home theatre needs subwoofer/s as there is a descrete channel of audio for them. In home theatre mode i have the whole thing balanced and working in harmony.

I intend to post photos soon, i'm just doing the last lot of alterations to the room which will take about a month (it is partially dis-assembled). Will show everyone what i have been rambling on about.

P.S. - how do i attach a picture in here?
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KaFFeslurp




Joined: 25 Apr 2008
Posts: 1



PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 8:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Speaker wattage question... Reply with quote

MYoung wrote:
I just bought an entry-level 5.1 surround sound system in a box (Sony HT-DDW700) for my beater basement home theater setup. It's 900W system -- 140W x 5 + 200W subwoofer. I got it for $190 after taxes and 10% off code from CircuitCity.com with same day pick-up (yeah, I'm just as shocked that I actually found something worth buying there!). I was thinking of replacing the dinky left and right channels with a little larger, 2 driver, bookshelf speakers. That way I can get some richer sound when playing music. Granted, I'll have to turn down the sub a bit. The tiny speakers it came with are rated at 140W, though I think my bookshelf speakers are 100W (I still have to dig 'em out and verify that). What are the negative consequences of hooking up 100W speakers when the spec speakers are 140W? Crappy sound? Risk of damaging/blowing the lower wattage speakers? Fire hazard? Dogs and cats living together... mass hysteria?!?!


Watt on speakers are nothing without the strenght from the amp. The watts on a amp are nothing without the weihght.

All-in-1 system are now often digital amps with no weight, therefore no amps to push and pull the drivers.

Dont listen to sellers on watts, do the lift test. The more a poweramp ways the more power you will get.
Watts on speakers is BS, do the spl test. listen to them at home with your stuff. does it sound good? no? yes? you decide!

If a retialer wont give you that chance dont buy from them. Okej i live in sweden and we can do this maybe not at youre place.

I have a 5.1 system from Genelec 5*8020A without the sub aktive. This setup will blow averyone away on the SPL it will give you with a 4" bas going down to 66Hz. I dont need the base underneith 66Hz. The SPL is greater then my Harman Kardon Signature 2.1 amp. SPL is the way to go!

BW

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perisoft




Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Posts: 2920
Location: Ithaca, NY


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

enigma wrote:
Now you know why good amps are heavy.


Note to self: When designing audiophile amplifier, hermetically seal electronics with heat-conducting plastic, filling the entire chassis, to prevent intrusion; then fill baseplate of chassis with twenty-five pounds of lead.

Wink

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enigma




Joined: 20 Feb 2008
Posts: 24
Location: Australia


PostLink    Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget some pretty lights on the front and maybe a badge, something like B&O, then flog it off for 25 grand! and you know what, some knob will by it and get such a big ego over the boat anchor he just bought.

If anyone is serious about Hi-Fi, i'm happy to lend some advice.
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rpruen




Joined: 07 Apr 2008
Posts: 67
Location: Southwest UK

TV/Projector: BD701 FTS, BD808s


PostLink    Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 3:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Curt Palme wrote:
A large heavy amp has big filter caps that store electricity for when the big bass notes come along. They dump their power into the speakers, then store themselves up again over time.

A small switching amp doesn't have these large capacitors in them, so they don't have as large of a reserve within the amp, and rely on the AC power line to instantaneously supply the power needed for the big bass notes. If the power isn't available because you're running the coffee maker right next to the amp at the same time, the amp clips, blows up, blows the speakers, or distorts.


This reminds me of an amp I had when I was working in a tv/audio shop. It was basicaly free, just as well considering I was a student at the time... Anyhow.

I think it was made by Dennon, but I can't remember for sure. This had a sort of nice idea, it had two amps per channel, so that the current draw was always the same, when the power was going to the speaker, it wasn't going to the internal load, and when not going to the speaker it went to the internal load.

The positive side to that is that the power supply would only ever see a fixed DC current, that never changed, so the power caps could be a bit smaller, and the power supply used choke output and filter caps to keep all wobble out of the DC rails. I also had neat features like seperate power supplies for each stage, with just enough voltage for that stage, so as to keep resistor noise to a minimum. There where temperature corection diodes on all stages as well, so the bias was maintained eliminating the need for coupling caps.

The downside, was of couse that it was very big, very heavy, and you could use it as a storage heater, as when on it would draw 200W (and a bit more for losses) even with the volume set to 0.

Silightly mad, but it did sound good.

Richard
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perisoft




Joined: 29 Aug 2007
Posts: 2920
Location: Ithaca, NY


PostLink    Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For some reason my Technics AVR gets hot as a vegas afternoon whether it's pounding out techno or sitting idle, too. I doubt it's for the same reasons, though. Man, does that thing get hot, though. You have to be careful not to lean on it.
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