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[kal]

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Barco setup: Quick reference guide

What this is:

A quick reference guide that lists the order of the steps you need to perform when setting up pretty much any recent Barco projector. This will work for older units as well, some of the steps will simply not be possible (ex: dynamic astig). In fact, 95% of the ideas in this quick reference guide could be used for pretty much any projector since the steps are generic enough.

What this isn't:

An in-depth step by step guide on how exactly to perform all of these steps in detail for beginners. Beginners should simply follow the setup guide in their manuals. Use this list as the initial checklist for searching for other 'how-to' information.

Who should use this?

Advanced users that want a quick list of the setup steps they should perform to get 100% out of their projector.

Who should not use this?

Users new to setting up CRT projectors in general. This is not a step-by-step beginner guide. Users new to setting up CRT projectors should follow the step by step guides in their manuals and keep their hands out of the unit. The only times they should be putting their hands near the projector would be to perform lens focus, toe-in, and scheimpflug (flapping). All other changes should be done via remote.

Warning: Many of the these steps involve you putting your hands inside the projector near 30-40KV rails. Do not attempt this if you are not comfortable doing this or know what you're doing. Skips these steps if you're not comfortable.

------------------------

A big thank you goes to CRTEAMAN (James) for posting the start of this list in a different forum. I've taken it and expanded on a few points.


Initial checks:

(0) Ensure the projector is installed correctly (correct distance from the screen, correct height, and square to the screen).

(1) Check the 17 volt rail with a meter. Adjust if needed (see service manual). Make sure that you use a video line frequency 15.6/15.7 or an internal pattern, also your H-width setting must be at 49 when you do this.

(1a) Check the 48V pot on the SMPS (see service manual).

(1b) Check the horiz linearity pot on the horiz defl board (see service manual).

Optical:

(2) Set the R and B raster to use most the CRT width, toe-in to center on screen properly (see Guy's excellent instructions here).

(2a) Do optical center focus, do corner focus, do Scheimpflug (lens flapping). (You need to go back and forth with these - very iterative). Guy has some excellent info on this using 3x5" recipe cards where you're attempting to see the phosphor grain on the screen (see link in previous step).

Tube magnetics:

(3a) Make sure horiz defl coils are hard up against the tube bowl and in an a near upright position.

(3b) Start with the mag focus yoke as close to the tube bell as possible. Set center e-focus to 57 and move mag focus yoke back (very slightly) if needed to get sharpest focus in center of screen.

(3c) Set mag focus yoke rotation correctly. Start with completely upright/inline with defl yoke. This good enough for most.

(3d) Set 2/4 pole magnets correctly to get astig at the center of the screen perfect. To test your astigmatism, do the following; pull up your genlock pattern select focus in the menu's and one colour at a time turn the focus all the way up and then all the way down, watch for the little lines at the centre and see if they twist violently in a diagonal direction, if they do then your astig is bad!

(3e) Using a grid pattern, rotate defl yokes until horiz centerlines coincide. Don't worry about vertical lines being off (convergence will handle this). It's more important to line things up along the horizontal left to right center line.

(3f) For all 3 tubes, do zone astig if your projector has it (this is the outside astig. Center astig's already done with the 2/4 pole magnets). Note: Do not use the Barco internal patterns as the dots are not round.

(3g) For all 3 tubes, Do electronic center focus, then electronic zone focus.

After adjusting the tube magnetics, you may wan to recheck the optical focus & Scheimpflug again (see step 2)...

Positioning of raster using mech controls:

(4) Raster width coils: Turn all 3 all the way in. Adjust the two larger rasters to match the smallest in width at the center point. (Use the horiz R/B shift pots to make it easier to line things up and measure the left to right horizontal centerline). One of the 3 coils must be turned all the way in!

(5) Do a little bit of rough geometry work on green now while viewing a grid pattern: Set up a rectangle on screen that's pretty much the height and width of what you want. Set green raster shift to 49/49. If it's not centered when near 49/49 (midpoint), move the projector! You don't have it installed right! (Some minor offset from 49/49 is ok of course, but it probably shouldn't be more then 10 points away in any direction).

Set your R and B raster shifts to 49/49 (this is the center convergence zone for each tube respectively). Turn on R and B grids one at a time over the green grid and:

-Use the horiz shift pots to line up the R/B rasters to be even with the green (only look at the center of the screen).
- Use vert shift pots to line up R/B perfectly with green (only look at the center of the screen only).
- Use vert size pots to line up the top/bottom of R/B as close as possible with green (only look at the very top/bottom of the screen).

While some R/B raster shift may be used in subsequent steps or over time, your R/B rasters should both remain within a click or two from 49/49 (midpoint).

Now the 3 grids should be lined up as well as possible without using electronic controls (height, width, and positioning of the 3 grids should be the same). This ensure that we use a minimal amount of electronic compensation (important if you don't want it to drift).

Electronic controls:

(6) Now go through the guided setup and do the rest of the geometry and zone convergence. You'll skip a bunch of the early steps (raster centering, focus, etc) since they're already done.

After that you have to set your brightness/contrast using test DVD's, then do greyscale, (recheck brightness/contrast after).

DONE!


This is a short list, as it's meant to only be a quick check guide. Each of the items in the list could be expanded into 1-2+ pages each easily ... (no, I won't entertain doing this as it's very projector specific ). Some of the items can take you 2-3 hours easily! The whole tube magnetics (section 3) stuff takes forever ...

Hope this helps someone!

Kal

P.S. I'm sure there are extra steps I do but have missed here. Feel free to let me know what you think and I'll add items as needed.

[kal]

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Barco setup: Quick reference guide

What this is:

A quick reference guide that lists the order of the steps you need to perform when setting up pretty much any recent Barco projector. This will work for older units as well, some of the steps will simply not be possible (ex: dynamic astig). In fact, 95% of the ideas in this quick reference guide could be used for pretty much any projector since the steps are generic enough.

What this isn't:

An in-depth step by step guide on how exactly to perform all of these steps in detail for beginners. Beginners should simply follow the setup guide in their manuals. Use this list as the initial checklist for searching for other 'how-to' information.

Who should use this?

Advanced users that want a quick list of the setup steps they should perform to get 100% out of their projector.

Who should not use this?

Users new to setting up CRT projectors in general. This is not a step-by-step beginner guide. Users new to setting up CRT projectors should follow the step by step guides in their manuals and keep their hands out of the unit. The only times they should be putting their hands near the projector would be to perform lens focus, toe-in, and scheimpflug (flapping). All other changes should be done via remote.

Warning: Many of the these steps involve you putting your hands inside the projector near 30-40KV rails. Do not attempt this if you are not comfortable doing this or know what you're doing. Skips these steps if you're not comfortable.

------------------------

A big thank you goes to CRTEAMAN (James) for posting the start of this list in a different forum. I've taken it and expanded on a few points.


Initial checks:

(0) Ensure the projector is installed correctly (correct distance from the screen, correct height, and square to the screen).

(1) Check the 17 volt rail with a meter. Adjust if needed (see service manual). Make sure that you use a video line frequency 15.6/15.7 or an internal pattern, also your H-width setting must be at 49 when you do this.

(1a) Check the 48V pot on the SMPS (see service manual).

(1b) Check the horiz linearity pot on the horiz defl board (see service manual).

Optical:

(2) Set the R and B raster to use most the CRT width, toe-in to center on screen properly (see Guy's excellent instructions here).

(2a) Do optical center focus, do corner focus, do Scheimpflug (lens flapping). (You need to go back and forth with these - very iterative). Guy has some excellent info on this using 3x5" recipe cards where you're attempting to see the phosphor grain on the screen (see link in previous step).

Tube magnetics:

(3a) Make sure horiz defl coils are hard up against the tube bowl and in an a near upright position.

(3b) Start with the mag focus yoke as close to the tube bell as possible. Set center e-focus to 57 and move mag focus yoke back (very slightly) if needed to get sharpest focus in center of screen.

(3c) Set mag focus yoke rotation correctly. Start with completely upright/inline with defl yoke. This good enough for most.

(3d) Set 2/4 pole magnets correctly to get astig at the center of the screen perfect. To test your astigmatism, do the following; pull up your genlock pattern select focus in the menu's and one colour at a time turn the focus all the way up and then all the way down, watch for the little lines at the centre and see if they twist violently in a diagonal direction, if they do then your astig is bad!

(3e) Using a grid pattern, rotate defl yokes until horiz centerlines coincide. Don't worry about vertical lines being off (convergence will handle this). It's more important to line things up along the horizontal left to right center line.

(3f) For all 3 tubes, do zone astig if your projector has it (this is the outside astig. Center astig's already done with the 2/4 pole magnets). Note: Do not use the Barco internal patterns as the dots are not round.

(3g) For all 3 tubes, Do electronic center focus, then electronic zone focus.

After adjusting the tube magnetics, you may wan to recheck the optical focus & Scheimpflug again (see step 2)...

Positioning of raster using mech controls:

(4) Raster width coils: Turn all 3 all the way in. Adjust the two larger rasters to match the smallest in width at the center point. (Use the horiz R/B shift pots to make it easier to line things up and measure the left to right horizontal centerline). One of the 3 coils must be turned all the way in!

(5) Do a little bit of rough geometry work on green now while viewing a grid pattern: Set up a rectangle on screen that's pretty much the height and width of what you want. Set green raster shift to 49/49. If it's not centered when near 49/49 (midpoint), move the projector! You don't have it installed right! (Some minor offset from 49/49 is ok of course, but it probably shouldn't be more then 10 points away in any direction).

Set your R and B raster shifts to 49/49 (this is the center convergence zone for each tube respectively). Turn on R and B grids one at a time over the green grid and:

-Use the horiz shift pots to line up the R/B rasters to be even with the green (only look at the center of the screen).
- Use vert shift pots to line up R/B perfectly with green (only look at the center of the screen only).
- Use vert size pots to line up the top/bottom of R/B as close as possible with green (only look at the very top/bottom of the screen).

While some R/B raster shift may be used in subsequent steps or over time, your R/B rasters should both remain within a click or two from 49/49 (midpoint).

Now the 3 grids should be lined up as well as possible without using electronic controls (height, width, and positioning of the 3 grids should be the same). This ensure that we use a minimal amount of electronic compensation (important if you don't want it to drift).

Electronic controls:

(6) Now go through the guided setup and do the rest of the geometry and zone convergence. You'll skip a bunch of the early steps (raster centering, focus, etc) since they're already done.

After that you have to set your brightness/contrast using test DVD's, then do greyscale, (recheck brightness/contrast after).

DONE!


This is a short list, as it's meant to only be a quick check guide. Each of the items in the list could be expanded into 1-2+ pages each easily ... (no, I won't entertain doing this as it's very projector specific ). Some of the items can take you 2-3 hours easily! The whole tube magnetics (section 3) stuff takes forever ...

Hope this helps someone!

Kal

P.S. I'm sure there are extra steps I do but have missed here. Feel free to let me know what you think and I'll add items as needed.

[Person99]

[kal]

Hey Dave,

Yep, there are a million and one ways that this list could be expanded on. It was one put together originally by James (CRTEAMAN) from avforums.com. I took it and expanded it slightly to make some things a bit clearer and also put some instructions in place indicating who should be (and shouldn't be) using this list. This is definitely not a list for beginners. It's for experienced Barco owners that want a step-by-step reference to remind them of the order of things. That's the reason why there are no detailed instructions really.

I would never recommend this list to someone new to CRT's. They should be using the install manuals only.

Kal

[kal]

Hey Dave,

Yep, there are a million and one ways that this list could be expanded on. It was one put together originally by James (CRTEAMAN) from avforums.com. I took it and expanded it slightly to make some things a bit clearer and also put some instructions in place indicating who should be (and shouldn't be) using this list. This is definitely not a list for beginners. It's for experienced Barco owners that want a step-by-step reference to remind them of the order of things. That's the reason why there are no detailed instructions really.

I would never recommend this list to someone new to CRT's. They should be using the install manuals only.

Kal

[Alaric]

Hi There,

I've seen this list on a few sites, but to be honest, from what i've read and understood it seems to be a set of tips aimed at someone who already knows it all already.....Very much like road signs, if you don't know where your going you see them too late, and if you do, then you don't need them !

I'm suprised over the time its been floating about someone hasn't expanded it a bit and good on Dave for point out a few bits.

I'm tempted to say, come on people, there is enough expertise here to expand it, and probably increase everyones knowledge a little !

The Barco Install/User Manuals are great if you have a factory new PJ, however if your PJ has been used a bit, then they leave a little to be desired....Even they they don't manage to squeeze the best out of them.

The Service manuals are 95% circuit diagrams which are probably great if your Curt and repair stuff, or a budding electrical engineer, however for the rest of the even quite technicaly minded people they are almost useless....That last 5% has some interesting bits, however obtaining useful procedures from the cryptic instructions and pictures is definatly a challenge !

cya,
Lee

[NewbieDAN]

Has anyone ever expanded on this document? I'm very new to the Barco (1209s Graphics) but very familiar with Sonys....an expanded walk through for those (like myself) that are not familiar with the Barco, but familiar with Projectors would b great....
Cheer
Daniel

[kal]

It has never been expanded. Way too much work as some of the items could take pages and pages of explaining.

I would ask any specific questions you have or ask on the forum.

Kal

[kal]

It has never been expanded. Way too much work as some of the items could take pages and pages of explaining.

I would ask any specific questions you have or ask on the forum.

Kal

[NewbieDAN]

It appears most of the astig and magnetic tube adjustments are non-specific to the Barco, and the principles are similar for most....what I'd like expanded is the information relating to the positioning of the raster and size using the pots and coils...as this is very foreign to me...any thoughts?

[studio]

Going to try and follow this guide, maybe some of you guys will have the patients and help me through this??

Initial checks:

(0) Ensure the projector is installed correctly (correct distance from the screen, correct height, and square to the screen).

(1) Check the 17 volt rail with a meter. Adjust if needed (see service manual). Make sure that you use a video line frequency 15.6/15.7 or an internal pattern, also your H-width setting must be at 49 when you do this.
Is the H-width the same as H-phase?

(1a) Check the 48V pot on the SMPS (see service manual).
Manual says the following:
c) Adjusting MAX HOR AMPL P2
Adj. the Hor Amp of the display picture by means of the remote to its max==99

What item am I adjusting to MAX?
Adjust pot P2 for +48V on the collector.

(1b) Check the horiz linearity pot on the horiz defl board (see service manual).

Manual says:
Adj the core of the linearity coil using 15 kHz input source. It does not tell me what I'm looking for when finished?

[Ile]

[studio]

Thanks Ile for you response!

Item 2 was one of my concerns. Using PS3 with Fury @ 1080p and adjusting the h-phase I couldn't see all of my image it scolls from side to side.

[Ile]

[studio]

Is there enough range to do both 4:3 and 16:9?

[Ile]

[studio]

I know this sound stupid where is the h-width? Is this the same a h-size?

[skippyar]

[Ile]

[studio]

I'm using a PS3 with a Fury 2 on the 1209s. I have the problem of the content being to wide if using 16:9 at 1080p. With this setup what to I change to be able to display the whole width of the image?

Thanks
Steve

[Ile]

[studio]

Ile,

I tried what you said, Led was off, by turning ccw the led came on. Now what?

[Ile]

Adjust Hphase again and see if you get less cropped picture.

Active picture area should be bit wider than in long retrace mode.